Pequignet - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Pequignet is a French watch brand founded in 1973 in Morteau by Émile Péquignet; after an early chapter shaped by jewelry-inflected design (the Moorea bracelet), the company set up a Haute Horlogerie lab in the 2000s, from which came French-made movements — Calibre Royal (2011), Calibre Royal Manuel (2018), Calibre Initial (2021) and, more recently, a tourbillon — that now underpin contemporary collections combining useful complications, clarity and a distinctly national identity.

Morteau 1973, Moorea 1984: a French storyline of design and know-how

Created by Émile Péquignet in the Haut-Doubs, the brand has been anchored in Morteau from the outset — a cross-border watch basin — before signing, in 1984, the “Moorea” link, an articulated steel grain that became an emblem, and the Equus line (1987), reflecting the founder’s passion for horsemanship, and these aesthetic milestones explain the brand’s enduring blend of jeweller’s vocabulary and purpose-built watches.

Over time the company pursued a broader industrial ambition: a managerial takeover in 2004 to build a manufacture, launch of the Calibre Royal in 2011, then a stabilising ownership relay (buy-out by four executives in 2017, followed by Enowe’s involvement) to secure a French pipeline, and though shareholder details evolved, the constant has been a stated will to design and assemble in France.

Public recognition followed: the state “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” (EPV) label in 2014, renewed in 2019 and 2025; own-name boutiques in Paris and Besançon; equipped e-commerce (EU shipping/returns) and structured after-sales, and this footprint makes access to a French take on Haute Horlogerie straightforward for buyers.

Calibre Royal: integrated architecture, big date, moon and 88 hours

The manufacture’s cornerstone, the Calibre Royal, bundles a long power reserve (~88 h), a double-window big date and day display, a day/night indicator, a moon phase and, on some versions, a double UTC time zone into a movement conceived in Morteau, and this in-house integration aims for instant legibility and daily reliability rather than gratuitous show.

Beyond functions, development required 279 industrial drawings for a 318-component movement (316 proprietary parts), protected by multiple patents, with a large balance showcased through a sapphire back, and the brief openly champions “unfussy Haute Horlogerie,” advancing technique and clarity together.

Housed across steel, titanium or gold cases (Royale Paris, Royale Grand Sport, Royale Titane, Saphir editions), the Calibre Royal also spawned a hand-wound version (2018) and a recent flying tourbillon, widening the aesthetic spectrum without diluting the signature, and coherence stands out: shared dial grammar, clear displays, one pillar movement.

Calibre Initial and “French movement”: Attitude, short supply chain and 65 hours

Launched in 2021 to power the Attitude collection, the Calibre Initial brings bi-directional winding, a 65-hour reserve and a patented semi-instant date, with a tightly localised supply chain (components produced within ~80 km of Morteau, the majority made in France), and the goal is a robust, slim, easy-to-service daily movement.

Visually, the openworked rotor with the house fleur-de-lys appears on the back, while Attitude dials stay restrained (crisp hands, applied markers) so desk-to-play wear remains seamless; limited Élysée editions underline the brand’s civic bent, and the three-word message is: French, readable, durable.

This “French movement” also flows into sportier (Extrême 300) or smaller 36 mm references, showing the platform adapts to varied sizes without losing its functional personality, and modularity remains guided by real-world use rather than a pile-on of complications.

Today’s families: quick orientation by wear scenario

To navigate without getting lost, think in families, each covering a use case and wrist stance; the list below gathers landmarks in one or two points apiece, and the names follow the brand’s current official taxonomy.

• Pequignet Royale Paris — downsized to 39.5 mm in its 2025 update; big date, power reserve, vertical moon; contemporary city wear. 
• Pequignet Royale Saphir — translucent sapphire dial revealing the Calibre Royal; launched 2019 to spotlight the French movement. 
• Pequignet Royale Grand Sport — 44 mm, Royal’s classic displays (PR, big date, moon) in a sportier shell. 
• Pequignet Royale Titane — light, tough, sport-tool codes with LumiNova indices. 
• Pequignet Extrême 300 — 300-m diver driven by the Calibre Royal; legibility with refined execution.
• Pequignet Attitude — three-hand/date Calibre Initial (65 h, patented date); everyday urban wear.
• Pequignet Concorde — contemporary line with French movement; broad range of sizes/colours.
• Pequignet Moorea — heritage return of the icon bracelet (Moorea Vintage capsule).

Positioning, prices and distribution: French Haute Horlogerie, measured volumes

Published prices place the brand in the mid-to-upper segment: Attitude around €2,800–3,500 depending on reference, Extrême 300 typically €5,600, Royale Paris (39.5 mm) roughly €5,300–8,500 by material/complications, with solid-gold or special pieces well above, and this scale reflects local manufacture, refined finishing and extended warranties.

Distribution blends the official site (instalments, EU returns, up to 5-year warranty by line) and own-name boutiques in Paris (Rue de Rennes) and Besançon, complemented by a small specialist network, and this short channel keeps a tight grip on client experience and lead-times.

Annual volumes aren’t disclosed, yet the structure (HH lab in Morteau, local chain, EPV) and the breadth of the range suggest steady output paced by launches, with punctual limited runs (e.g., 2024 tricolour Royale Paris), and the audience spans discerning enthusiasts and buyers seeking a credible “made in France” proposition.

Conclusion

Pequignet fits wearers who want clear, French-conceived Haute Horlogerie powered by coherent in-house movements. The “Royale” families embody the complication-with-legibility DNA; Attitude bridges into everyday wear; Extrême 300 covers aquatic duty; Moorea ties back to heritage. Decide by use case, validate ergonomics and reading, then choose Royal vs Initial by your relationship to complications. To align these cues with lived ownership over time, a practical compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.

(Updated September 2025)