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2

29

Beautiful and accessible reinterpretation of the Breguet type 20

3.9

Hong Kong-based watch brand UNDONE was founded in 2014 by Michael Young. Despite its affordable price points, UNDONE uses high-quality materials like stainless steel and sapphire crystal, and many models draw inspiration from classic watch designs throughout history. Looking for a Type 20 chronograph for a few hundred euros (an Auricoste was therefore out of the question), I was torn between a lovely Baltany model equipped with a meca-quartz movement and a Landeron model equipped with a Seagull mechanical movement. In the end, I settled on the Urban Chronograph model, which made Undone so successful. The Classic version is the closest to the legendary Breguet Type XX military, and the 41.5 mm diameter is ideal for my large wrist. I was lucky enough to come across a model with a transparent case back (Undone allowing advanced customizations), which is very rare for a quartz watch. This Type XX therefore offers a hybrid quartz-mechanical Seiko VK64 movement, which gives it precision, reliability and the aesthetic pleasure of the chronograph seconds hand. I love the look. One could criticize it for the presence of a solely mineral glass and the lack of inscriptions on the bezel and the flyback inscription on the dial (available for customization) but I prefer this less busy side and this domed mineral glass giving a vintage look to my taste. In addition, I would have preferred a small seconds sub-dial rather than a 24-hour one. Frankly, for 300 euros, the pleasure this chronograph brings me is incredible. Yes, its look is borrowed, but it made me want to acquire a more legitimate Auricoste for example.

13 hours ago

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14

356

After 142 years of waiting, the birth of their first diver!

4.6

Hanhart Aquasphere FreeFall Blue (ref: 772.270-6428): This is the first diver's watch to be presented by the German brand since its creation in 1882 at the end of 2024. It measures 42mm with a 49mm lug width and a thickness of 12.95mm. It is water-resistant to 300m and equipped with a helium escape valve. It is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. As a diver's enthusiast, I wanted to add a model from a German brand to my collection. During my research, this model immediately appealed to me thanks to its matte blue dial and sharp typography (reminiscent of the Ball Engineers). The hands are well differentiated and long, making it easy to read the time. The 60-click ceramic bezel is very smooth and pleasant to use. Additionally, the red line on the bezel chamfer at 12 o'clock refers to the history of the colored pushers on Hanhart aviators' chronographs during World War II. The satin-finished case is also well-crafted, with the distinctive hollowed-out sides and drooping lugs, providing excellent wearer comfort (inspired by the Primus model). On the other hand, the screw-down caseback leaves me a little more perplexed... While I find the engraving depicting a seabed with coral and small fish very well done, it doesn't match the sleek and aggressive character of this diver's watch (a bit like an old pirate with flamingo tattoos...). I would have preferred a more aggressive engraving, like a submarine, a torpedo, or a battleship, to remain in keeping with Hanhart's military DNA... The steel bracelet is equipped with flash springs and a diving extension with a very high-quality folding clasp. Finally, the clasp proudly displays a "HANHART" engraving. Regarding the precision of this Sellita SW200-1, I tested it in 6 positions with an excellent average of +3 seconds/day. Hanhart is a manufacturer over a century old with a rich historical reputation, but thanks to this entry into the world of diving watches, it hopes to write a new chapter in its watchmaking adventure and look to the future. For now, I am very satisfied with my Aquasphere, which is overall very successful because it retains all the hallmarks of a classic diver's watch while incorporating its own identity (hollowed sides, red line, "Deutsche Qualität"). It seems to have been a success, as this first edition is now sold out. I think Hanhart will continue to surprise us by hopefully introducing new dial colors and, of course, a chronograph version... To be continued!

15 hours ago

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5

114

An excellent compromise between the tool and the finishes +++

4.2

In my quest for the ultimate watch, one that would tick all my boxes, I set out to buy this beautiful GS. I'd never spent such a fortune on a watch before. I was speechless at the exquisite workmanship, whether on the case, the indexes, the hands, or the caseback... A year later, I still take it off my wrist to play with the light. Its dial changes from deep black to a slightly sunburst blue; it's almost frustrating that it isn't a little more so. Insanely legible day and night, with very powerful and high-quality Lum on the hands (including the GMT) and the cardinal points. When worn, it remains present, which is what I like. With its 20 ATM resistance, the minimum for me, its thickness remains reasonable, and the feel on the wrist is, as always, well-designed with GS. What was supposed to become my everyday watch has finally taken the place of the watch I wear when I'm not working. Indeed, my job as a sound technician requires me to handle a lot of equipment, and... at the first knock on the bezel, I rethought my decision, telling myself that it wasn't ultimately reasonable to unnecessarily expose this beautiful watch with such fine finishes to handling that might shock or scratch it a little too often for my liking... I also remain impressed by this in-house caliber (9S66), which is incredibly precise. I'm on average within +1 second/day regardless of the outside temperature, my activity, whether I'm wearing it or not...

16 hours ago

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