Eska - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Eska is a watch brand founded in 1918 in Switzerland by Sylvan Kocher (S. Kocher & Co.), with the name echoing the pronunciation of the initials “S-K” (es-ka). Born from dress watchmaking with clear legibility, the brand became known for guilloché or grained dials, elegant small-to-mid sizes and, later, for a mythical diver that is now almost impossible to find. After going dormant at the end of the 20th century, Eska was revived in the mid-2020s with a stated intent to honor its historic pieces while adapting them for contemporary wear.

From “S. Kocher & Co.” to Eska: Selzach, then Grenchen (1918–1937)

In the aftermath of World War I, S. Kocher & Co. was established in Selzach before relocating to Grenchen in the 1930s to support international growth; this geographic shift accompanied the ambition to evolve from a small workshop into a brand geared to export. The early decades focused on dress watches with three hands, sometimes embellished with simple calendars or jumping-hour “digital” displays, set in round or shaped cases in steel, plated metals or gold.

Already in the interwar period, Eska watches circulated beyond Switzerland, notably in the Americas and Brazil, gaining a reputation for thin, well-finished and easy-to-read pieces; the brand’s identity was rooted more in restrained execution than in mechanical one-upmanship. That approach — compact proportions, quietly worked dials — runs through the 1940s and 1950s output.

Royce as the export sibling and the quartz-era headwinds

From the post-war years onward, the company developed a second label, Royce, aimed primarily at export markets (notably the United States), offering watches close in spirit but signed differently depending on distribution; this dual-signature strategy broadened reach without diluting the aesthetic DNA. In the 1960s, use of the Royce name intensified, and Eska-signed pieces became scarcer in some regions.

The 1970s–1980s upended the ecosystem with the rise of quartz movements, which destabilized many historic, smaller-scale makers; Eska scaled back and ultimately faded as an active brand by the late 1980s. This retreat explains the strong presence of vintage pieces on today’s secondary market, often in period-correct diameters (34–37 mm) and prized for well-preserved dials.

“Amphibian 600”: a rare diver, between archives and legend

Around 1959–1960, a now-mythical reference appeared: the Eska Amphibian 600, a diver with a broad acrylic bezel and a very distinctive personality; its patchy iconography fuels both collectors’ interest and a dose of mystery. Some sources suggest it on the wrists of personalities or military units, and specialists highlight the extreme rarity of intact examples — some even speak of only a handful known, which gives it a near “ghost” aura.

• Eska Amphibian 600 — late-1950s diver, inspired by the first civil dive watches, oversized bezel, maximum legibility.
• Eska Calendar — dress watches with day/date/month indications, often in thin cases and textured dials.
• Eska Digital (jump hour) — window-display pieces typical of the 1930s–1950s, blending whimsy with restraint.
• Eska Chronograph — sporadic productions with telemeter/spiral scales, instrument-like in spirit.

The place of the Eska Amphibian 600 in dive-watch history owes as much to its singular design as to the difficulty of documenting its distribution with certainty; for a buyer, this means paying close attention to dial, bezel and case coherence. On such pieces, clear provenance and original components weigh heavily in valuation.

Contemporary revival (2024–2025): Amphibian 250 and Heritage Chronograph

In 2024, two enthusiasts brought the brand back with the Eska Amphibian 250, a modern, more attainable take on the historic diver, funded via Kickstarter and assembled in France; the brief combines vintage cues (case lines, bezel, drilled lugs) with present-day usability. The campaign drew notable interest among enthusiasts, validating the wager of awakening a “sleeping beauty” with tact.

In 2025, the brand broadened the project with a heritage-styled chronograph, the Eska Heritage Chronograph, at roughly 38 mm with drilled lugs and pump pushers, channeling a 1960s sport-chic spirit; the intent is to stick to wearable proportions and clear reading without sacrificing the pleasure of details. These releases anchor the revival in an unabashed “neo-vintage” register that remains faithful to the original identity.

Pricing, distribution and production: a measured stance

The current strategy favors direct-to-consumer sales and a handful of specialized partners, with limited series by colorway and tightly managed runs; price levels span early-bird preorder tickets to controlled retail for the segment. Dial and bezel variations follow one another as batches progress, allowing collectors to pick distinctive configurations.

Assembly in France, straps from renowned artisans and local-leaning logistics are part of the talking points; this footprint helps with after-sales service and parts availability. Communications remain educational and community-oriented, with appearances at watch events and in a few showrooms.

Selection advice: authentic vintage or ready-to-wear neo-vintage

For a historical piece, target an example whose dial, bezel and hands align (fonts, patina, lengths) and whose case still shows crisp edges; on an Amphibian, overall coherence of the insert and the watch’s stance trumps details you’ll never see on the wrist. Period paperwork and recent service by a competent workshop are valuable pluses.

• If you love dive-watch history, an original Eska Amphibian 600 is a collector’s rarity that’s demanding to source and authenticate.
• If you want a vintage-looking “daily diver” with modern comfort, the Eska Amphibian 250 is a compelling compromise.
• If you prefer 1960s racing-chic styling, the Eska Heritage Chronograph aims for clear legibility and balanced wear.

On the wrist, keep overall height, lug-to-lug length and strap comfort (beads-of-rice steel, tropic rubber, leather) in mind; fit to your wrist and lifestyle matters more than chasing spec sheet superlatives. For a “smart buy,” compare variants in person when possible and prioritize perceived execution quality.

Conclusion

Eska speaks to enthusiasts who value readable design, compact proportions and fidelity to historic codes without pastiche. Between rare vintage pieces and well-thought-out neo-vintage re-editions, the brand offers a pleasant doorway into evocative, wearable, endearing watchmaking. To choose among models, start with your use case (daily dress, weekend, thematic collection), then judge the dial-case-bracelet balance. If you hesitate, rely on Dialicious customer reviews to confront brand narrative with real on-wrist experience.

(Updated September 2025)