Charlie Paris Concordia: owner reviews and feedback

The Charlie Paris Concordia, launched in 2018, is the Parisian company’s sports and adventure collection, originally developed to meet the specifications of Matthieu Tordeur’s Antarctic expedition. The explorer was preparing to travel approximately 1,150 kilometres solo and unsupported between Hercules Inlet and the South Pole in an environment where temperatures could become extremely low. Charlie Paris therefore designed a 40 mm automatic watch water-resistant to 300 metres, protected from magnetism by an internal soft-iron structure and fitted with an ETA 2824-2 whose oils were adapted to very low temperatures. A 38 mm quartz version accompanied the launch.

The Concordia subsequently developed into a genuine family comprising automatic dive watches, smooth-seconds quartz models, Nazaré and Kraken editions and a GMT. Despite changes in movements and colours, the principle remains constant: a robust but comparatively compact case, excellent legibility, sapphire crystal, screw-down crown and 300 metres of water resistance.

Design & legibility: a restrained tool watch born for exploration

The Concordia deliberately avoids the accumulation of decorative details often associated with sporting watches. Its dial prioritises large geometric hour markers, substantial hands and a clear outer minute track, all generously coated with luminous material. The middle case combines satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels so that the watch does not simply look military, while the slightly domed sapphire crystal adds greater depth. The first versions developed for Antarctica use a steel bezel with directional markers; later generations adopt a genuine unidirectional dive bezel with an aluminium insert. The combination of 300-metre dive-watch construction with a deliberately restrained design forms the essential distinguishing feature of the Concordia. The date on contemporary automatic models is generally positioned at 6 o’clock to preserve dial symmetry. GMT watches add a 24-hour scale to the flange, with two colours distinguishing daytime from nighttime while retaining the external dive bezel.

Case, bezel and comfort: 38 mm for quartz, 40 mm for automatic

Two sizes principally structure the collection. Current quartz Concordia watches use a 38 mm case measuring 45.5 mm in length and approximately 11.1 mm including the crystal, while automatic and GMT models measure 40 mm by 47.5 mm with approximately 12.5 mm thickness. In both cases, a 20 mm lug width makes strap changes particularly straightforward. Cases are made from 316L stainless steel, crowns screw down and casebacks are also screwed. The ability to maintain 300 metres of water resistance in comparatively restrained 38 or 40 mm cases is one of the principal practical strengths of the Concordia. Its domed sapphire crystal measures approximately 3 mm thick and receives anti-reflective treatment. Depending on reference, the caseback can be solid with the South Pole Objective expedition engraving or transparent to reveal the automatic movement. Steel, nylon, leather and rubber are available, generally with quick-release spring bars. Nylon and rubber reduce weight and suit water better, while steel creates a more versatile urban presentation.

Movement: from the cold-adapted ETA to Soprod and the VH31 quartz

The Concordia has used several movements since 2018. The first automatic uses the ETA 2824-2, a Swiss 4 Hz calibre with approximately 40 hours of autonomy, specially prepared for the polar expedition with oils adapted to extreme temperatures. Certain later series use the STP1-11 before Charlie Paris adopts the Soprod P024, a Swiss 25-jewel architecture operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The GMT introduced in 2023 uses the Soprod C125 and an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. The gradual transition to Soprod calibres forms the principal mechanical continuity of modern automatic Concordia watches. The P024 provides around 40 to 42 hours of reserve depending on documentation and Charlie Paris states a tolerance of 0 to +14 seconds per day for the black Concordia. According to the company, the C125 is regulated to around -7/+7 seconds per day and provides approximately 40 to 42 hours. Contemporary quartz watches instead use the TMI/Seiko VH31, whose seconds hand advances through four impulses every second and therefore looks considerably smoother than a conventional quartz movement.

Chronological milestones and main models (2018–2025)

(2018) Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic South Pole Objective First Expedition:

The first automatic Concordia is created directly around Matthieu Tordeur’s Antarctic project. The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic South Pole Objective has a 40 mm polished and brushed stainless-steel case, a rotating steel bezel carrying directional markings, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a screwed caseback bearing the expedition logo. Water resistance reaches 300 metres and an internal soft-iron structure strengthens protection from magnetism. The dial is initially available notably in black, blue or steel tones with large luminous hour markers designed for easy reading in extreme conditions. The automatic ETA 2824-2 provides approximately 40 hours of power reserve and its oils are specifically replaced to prevent them from solidifying as temperatures fall dramatically. This is the version actually selected for the expedition to the South Pole and therefore represents the genuine functional origin of the entire collection.

(2018) Charlie Paris Concordia Quartz Compact Alternative:

Charlie Paris immediately accompanies the automatic model with a more accessible version intended to retain the essential Concordia performance in a smaller format. The Charlie Paris Concordia Quartz adopts a 38 mm stainless-steel case compared with 40 mm for the automatic while retaining anti-reflective sapphire, a screwed caseback bearing the South Pole Objective logo and 300 metres of water resistance. The company’s original specifications mention a 1S3 quartz movement with hours, minutes, seconds and date. The dial is offered in several colours and uses large luminous hour markers suitable for nighttime reading. An internal soft-iron construction is also stated for this initial generation. This is not the version worn by Matthieu Tordeur, as Charlie Paris considered the automatic more appropriate for the extremely low Antarctic temperatures. It nevertheless establishes a 38 mm architecture that will later be retained and extensively modernised on quartz Concordia watches powered by the VH31.

(2021) Charlie Paris Concordia Nazaré Dive Watch Inspired by Giant Waves:

Nazaré transfers the land-exploration purpose of the Concordia into a maritime environment by taking inspiration from the giant waves of the Portuguese coast. The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic Nazaré uses a 40 mm 316L stainless-steel case approximately 12.7 mm thick, a unidirectional dive bezel and a 3 mm domed sapphire crystal. Its screw-down crown and caseback maintain 300 metres of water resistance. The slightly smoked blue dial repeats the large Super-LumiNova hour markers and hands of the family. This first Nazaré generation is powered by the Swiss STP1-11 automatic calibre. Its engraved caseback represents the Nazaré underwater canyon, the geological phenomenon responsible for the exceptional waves at the location. Nylon, leather or steel straps allow its appearance to move from a genuine sports watch towards a more urban configuration. This edition is an important step because it turns the Concordia into a genuine thematic collection beyond its original Antarctic story.

(2022) Charlie Paris Concordia Nazaré Soprod New Mechanical Generation:

Nazaré evolves in 2022 through a change that is primarily mechanical and invisible from the dial. The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic Nazaré retains its 40 mm stainless-steel case, unidirectional bezel, domed sapphire and 300 metres of water resistance but replaces the STP1-11 with the Soprod P024. The new Swiss calibre contains 25 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides around 40 hours of power reserve. The solid caseback engraved with the canyon disappears in favour of a transparent sapphire back that reveals the movement and oscillating weight. Charlie Paris offers this new series through pre-order and certain configurations are limited to 100 pieces. The smoked blue dial, Super-LumiNova markers and date at 6 o’clock preserve the visual identity of Nazaré. This transition is significant because the P024 subsequently becomes the principal movement of many three-hand automatic Concordia models.

(2023) Charlie Paris Concordia Kraken Automatic Full Black Treatment:

Kraken pushes the Concordia towards a much darker aesthetic without changing its fundamental dive-watch capability. The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic Kraken has a 40 mm 316L stainless-steel case with black PVD coating, measuring 47.5 mm in length and 12.5 mm thick. Its unidirectional bezel uses a black anodised-aluminium insert and the domed anti-reflective sapphire retains approximately 3 mm thickness. The screw-down crown and transparent caseback continue to provide 300 metres of water resistance. A sandblasted black dial, applied hour markers and darkened luminous material create a monochromatic presentation that remains surprisingly legible as lighting changes. Automatic calibre Soprod P024 operates at 4 Hz with 25 jewels and around 40 hours of power reserve. Black nylon, rubber or treated-steel bracelet options can preserve the completely dark appearance. This reference demonstrates that the Concordia can become substantially more expressive without abandoning its tool-watch construction.

(2023) Charlie Paris Concordia GMT Antarctic Blue Second Time Zone:

The GMT function represents the most important technical transformation of the Concordia since its launch. The Charlie Paris Concordia GMT Antarctic Blue retains a 40 mm stainless-steel case, 47.5 mm length, 12.5 mm thickness and 20 mm lug width. Most importantly, it keeps a genuine unidirectional dive bezel and 300 metres of water resistance instead of replacing the bezel with a 24-hour scale. The second time zone is therefore read against a fixed two-colour inner flange using a fourth central hand. Automatic calibre Soprod C125 contains 25 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 40 hours of autonomy. It is a caller GMT: the 24-hour hand adjusts independently, unlike a Traveller GMT where the local hour jumps in one-hour steps. Super-LumiNova also differentiates main time and GMT through distinct luminous colours. The date remains present and the construction retains a domed sapphire crystal and transparent caseback.

(2024) Charlie Paris Concordia Dune MKII Smooth-Seconds Quartz:

The Dune MKII illustrates the development of the quartz branch into a watch that is visually much more sophisticated than the original electronic Concordia. The Charlie Paris Concordia Dune MKII has a 38 mm stainless-steel case measuring approximately 45.5 mm in length and 11.1 mm thick including the crystal. It retains a screw-down crown, engraved steel caseback, domed anti-reflective sapphire and 300 metres of water resistance. Its dial uses sand and brown shades evoking desert landscapes, with large luminous markers and a peripheral minute track. The TMI/Seiko VH31 movement is its most notable technical element: although quartz, its seconds hand advances through four increments every second, creating smoother visual progress than a conventional single-step quartz movement. The calibre does not use a date on contemporary three-hand versions, simplifying the dial. A quick-release steel bracelet can easily be exchanged for nylon, leather or rubber.

Choosing the right version: quartz, automatic or GMT according to use

The first decision concerns movement. The VH31 quartz is accurate, straightforward and allows a case diameter of only 38 mm. Its four-increment-per-second hand also avoids part of the conventional visual character of quartz. The P024 requires more servicing but adds the pleasure of an automatic movement visible through the caseback. The quartz Concordia is the most rational choice when accuracy, low maintenance and compact dimensions take priority over mechanics. The automatic better suits someone wanting a more traditionally horological relationship with the watch.

The move from 38 to 40 mm appears minor on paper but genuinely changes wrist presence. The 47.5 mm length of the automatic remains reasonable for many wrists, while 45.5 mm makes the quartz particularly easy to wear. The 12.5 mm thickness of the mechanical version is also well controlled considering 300 metres of water resistance. The 38 mm quartz format is especially relevant for smaller wrists or someone preferring a discreet tool watch. A medium or larger wrist will easily accommodate the proportions of the 40 mm model.

For travel, the GMT adds a genuine function but its architecture needs to be understood. The Soprod C125 allows the GMT hand to be adjusted independently, making it very useful for monitoring another country while remaining at home, but less rapid when personally crossing several time zones than a movement with jumping local hours. The Concordia GMT is especially suited to regularly monitoring a second time zone while preserving genuine dive-watch functionality. Its principal advantage over many GMT watches is precisely the presence of a separate dive bezel.

Strap choice considerably changes the behaviour of the watch. Nylon is light, dries quickly and works extremely well with the exploration character of the collection. Rubber is ideal for aquatic activity. Steel increases weight but allows the Concordia to be worn as easily with urban clothing as by the water. Rubber or nylon are the most coherent choices when the 300 metres of water resistance are genuinely used. Leather should be reserved mainly for dry use despite the capability of the watch case.

Finally, buying a pre-owned Concordia requires identifying its mechanical generation. An early ETA 2824-2, a Nazaré STP1-11 and a P024-powered Concordia can appear fairly similar externally even though their movements differ. Solid or transparent casebacks often provide an initial clue. It is important to verify the exact calibre rather than treating all automatic Concordia watches as technically identical. A recent water-resistance test is also advisable before diving even with a watch rated to 300 metres. Other customers’ opinions are essential.

Conclusion

The Charlie Paris Concordia is aimed at enthusiasts seeking a French sports watch whose legitimacy comes from a genuine expedition specification rather than simply an adventurous aesthetic. The original 2018 version and its ETA 2824-2 prepared for the cold provide the strongest historical connection with Antarctica. Contemporary automatic models powered by the Soprod P024 offer a more conventional 40 mm dive-watch construction, while 38 mm VH31 quartz watches prioritise compactness and simplicity. Nazaré and Kraken allow a choice between maritime or monochromatic identities, while the GMT adds a second time zone without sacrificing the dive bezel or 300 metres of water resistance. Choice therefore mainly depends on size, movement and genuine need for a GMT function.

To compare accuracy, comfort, water resistance and finishing quality with extended real-world use, Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.

(Updated August 2026)