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The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Yema has produced an extremely diverse range of watches over the years, a richness rarely found elsewhere (at Lip, Omega, or Seiko). This watch dates from the 1990s, a period I particularly appreciate in watchmaking, although it's not widely embraced by the enthusiast community. This piece, therefore, is from the Yema-Seiko era, a model absent from the definitive book "Time of Heroes," which recounts the brand's history. The bezel is rotating, and the hand with the red arrow is used to set the alarm. Simply pull the crown at 4 o'clock to activate the alarm (which causes a red dot to appear around 6 o'clock). Unfortunately, the alarm isn't very precise, but it remains a fun accessory, with a charming and playful colorful dial. A cute and unpretentious watch.

The alarm watch, Nineties style!

This Driva Temptation is a vintage watch dating from the 1950s. Acquired at auction, it was part of a lot. What attracted me to this Swiss vintage piece was its domed crystal and the hour markers, which are located on the bezel rather than beneath the crystal—a rare configuration. The crystal fits well under a shirt cuff, and from a certain angle, it resembles a dewdrop! I enjoyed wearing it, but in practice, these are vintage pieces, and they are too fragile for my current needs.

A charming vintage

I wasn't swayed by the marketing surrounding this watch and the brand's concept, spearheaded by a CEO who wasn't entirely convincing. It was during a sale at Printemps that I finally succumbed to its allure. Its strengths lay in the innovative materials (a strap made from recycled fishing nets and a case from recycled plastic), as well as its exceptional legibility.

Furthermore, I didn't have a solar-powered version in the collection. I wore this watch almost continuously for nearly eight months, but the verdict is clear: it doesn't evoke any emotion in me. It's lightweight and functional, and the strap is comfortable. The blue dial is a disappointment; I would have preferred it to interact better with light, to produce more striking effects. It was also the symbolic watch of the G7 summit, representing French craftsmanship and the concept of recycling. In that respect, it holds a place in history.

The Awake Concept brand has since taken a different direction: limited-edition automatic watches with a focus on artistic crafts. All traces of this history have been erased from the website. Similarly, when I contacted them to ask how to clean the bracelet, I received no response. For those interested, the bracelet is perfectly machine washable.

So, it's an interesting, historical, legible, and easy-to-wear piece. But the brand seems to be a marketing ploy with no respect for its history (you're allowed to evolve a concept, but it's best to keep the original elements on the website) or for its customers.

An interesting proposal

Carlo Ferrara is an Italian watchmaker who left us in 2012. He had made a specialty of regulators, with his patented system. This model, the CF3 (read CF cube) is atypical even for him. Where normally Carlo Ferrara dials display two sub-dials, one for the hour and one for the minute, here there is only one sub-dial, that of the hours. This does not really make it a regulator because there are two central hands: minutes and seconds. The CF3 was also the entry-level model at Carlo Ferrara.

It is this atypical aspect that made me want to acquire this model. The opportunity presented itself, and I chose the CF3, instead of a model called Jockey, because of the 10 ATM water resistance, thanks to its solid case back representing a compass rose, ensuring safety in the use of the watch.

The finish is of good quality, the brushed and polished alternate in small touches on the case. The dial demonstrates this finish the most with the numbers, 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes, circled in metal and painted with luminova, allowing excellent readability in darker places. Note also that the watch is from 2006, 18 years after its production, the luminova is still very good. 
By choosing an oblong sub-dial, reading the time is less instinctive and more atypical than a usual round sub-dial. Moreover with this model, the minute and hour hands overlap regularly, which is not always annoying, but can be disconcerting. 
What does not emerge from the photos is the size of the beast: 44 cm wide, 54 cm long, 14 cm thick. It is not a small beast. Unfortunately for me, it ultimately turns out to be too big.

An atypical watch on many levels

Here is my opinion on Seiko Sportura Kinetic Chronograph, reference 7L22-0AE0. I wanted to buy this model because I loved this design that I find atypical, especially the ovoid-shaped glass, we could call it cyclops. The dial has several variations, including the hour sub-dial, which exists with Roman numerals, stick indexes or even numbers. I preferred the Roman numerals, because this version was in my opinion more harmonious and balanced. In addition to the design of the sub-dials, the movement is a real plus, it uses kinetic technology, that is to say a hybrid quartz movement powered by the movement of the wrist thanks to an oscillating weight. The case back is open, so as to leave the movement visible. This will please or not, but undeniably it adds to its futuristic side. It should be noted that the oscillating weight is quite noisy (which does not bother me, we at least know that it acts). I am rather vintage in the contained format, it must be said that this watch of 42 mm wide, 14.5 mm wide and 47 mm between the lugs is contained on my 16 cm wrist, it is not so huge. It nevertheless weighs its weight. As for the chronograph, it is limited to 45 min. My big negative point remains the bracelet which can be changed but with a specific Seiko bracelet, leather (findable) or metal difficult to find.

A chronograph with an atypical design

Yema is born in Besan&ccedil;on (France) in 1948 under the drive of Henry-Louis Belmont, the brand established itself with robust tool watches aimed at diving, motorsport, aviation and even spaceflight, keeping a Franche-Comt&eacute; industrial footprint and a design identity that is immediately recognizable.
<h3>Superman and bezel-lock: a French take on the diver&rsquo;s tool</h3>
The brand&rsquo;s emblem, the 1963 Superman, introduced a bezel-locking device adjacent to the crown, designed to prevent accidental rotation underwater and turned into a signature detail of modern re-editions&mdash;a simple, legible solution that embodies the tool-watch brief while asserting angular casework and a very &ldquo;instrumental&rdquo; mid-case, resulting in confident wrist presence without sacrificing function.
Beyond the lock itself, alternating brushed and polished planes define crisp volumes, generous markers secure readability, and water-resistance targets real use, so the look flows from function; this coherence&mdash;often imitated in spirit but hard to reproduce in detail&mdash;anchors the Superman as the quintessential &ldquo;French diver,&rdquo; worn as much for its stance as for its endurance, with a technical signature instantly spotted by seasoned enthusiasts.
<h3>Rallye, Rallygraf, Meangraf, Yachtingraf: racing and regatta chronographs</h3>
In the 1960s&ndash;1970s, Yema produced graphic, highly legible chronographs linked to car racing (Rallye/Rallygraf, Meangraf) and sailing (Yachtingraf), with high-contrast dials and purposeful scales; the lineage lives on in current re-issues and in emblematic anecdotes, such as Mario Andretti&rsquo;s chronograph during the 1969 Indy 500, evidence that the brand accompanied real competitive use with simple, robust solutions built around readability in demanding conditions.
<ul>
<li>Yema Rallygraf &mdash; &ldquo;Racing&rdquo; spirit, contrasting sub-dials, clear markers.</li>
<li>Yema Meangraf &mdash; Bold 1970s codes, immediate legibility, strong graphics.</li>
<li>Yema Yachtingraf &mdash; Regatta timing features, nautical aesthetics.</li>
<li>Yema Flygraf &mdash; Pilot-oriented, purposeful field readability.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Spationaute and CNES: Yema&rsquo;s journey into space</h3>
On June 24, 1982, Jean-Loup Chr&eacute;tien, the first Frenchman in space, launched to Salyut 7 wearing a Yema Spationaute&mdash;recognized as the first Western European watch flown into orbit&mdash;kicking off a series tied to CNES missions; the episode bolsters the image of a broadly accessible brand meeting exacting briefs while fueling a national narrative where a wrist-borne instrument serves as a mission companion that is pragmatic, durable and symbolic at once.
Beyond the space anecdote, the point is continuity: an &ldquo;instrument&rdquo; mindset, contrasted hands and bezel, robustness prioritized over ornament, and respectful nods to period graphics; it is less the one-off feat than the way it permeates the collections that matters, with editions that recall the lineage without caricature so as to cultivate a technical memory serving modern-day use.
<h3>&ldquo;in-house&rdquo; movement path: MBP1000, YEMA2000/3000 and CMM.20</h3>
Industrially, Yema communicates a gradual strengthening of its own calibres: after MBP1000 (announced in 2011), YEMA2000 (three-hand) and YEMA3000 (GMT) update the base with an emphasis on precision and durability, then a &ldquo;CMM.20&rdquo; micro-rotor of manufacture grade crowns the range&mdash;conceived, developed and assembled in French workshops&mdash;an offer meant to combine accessibility and independence through a measured progression rather than a speculative leap.
In practice, these evolutions coexist with references powered by other suppliers depending on era and use; coherence across the lineup relies as much on case architecture and perceived quality as on the movement spec itself, so the buyer&rsquo;s key step is to define the need (three-hand, GMT, chrono) and weigh what each calibre brings in power reserve, accuracy and service, to secure a credible technical match to the intended use.
<h3>Relocalization, workshops and distribution: a Besan&ccedil;on&ndash;Morteau through-line</h3>
Geographic anchoring remains a cue: between historic Besan&ccedil;on and today&rsquo;s development/assembly in Morteau, the brand structures a value chain re-centered on Franche-Comt&eacute; while keeping targeted external partners&mdash;an organization aiming to secure skills and lead times and to better control quality upstream, in a spirit of industrial proximity and traceability of key operations.
On the distribution side, Yema blends direct sales with selected retailers and builds editorial context around re-issues (Superman 63, Navygraf, Rallygraf) and their updates; scarcity is not artificially staged but comes from reasonable volumes and production cycles, hence the value, for enthusiasts, of tracking availability windows and trying sizes at the right time to lock a choice that is informed, personal and grounded in real use.&nbsp;
<h3>Positioning and pricing: a clear-identity French tool-watch</h3>
Yema&rsquo;s stance is easy to read: tool watches with strong design at studied prices relative to spec (exact public ranges: not disclosed), options in steel, bronze, titanium or ceramic depending on the line, and stepping up via complications or in-house movements; the value equation lies in the balance of design/function and in the stated French industrial narrative, appealing to enthusiasts of characterful &ldquo;tools&rdquo; more than to seekers of overtly decorative luxury pieces.
Value in use, however, hinges on ownership fit: bracelet comfort, lug-to-lug, dial contrast, night legibility and water-resistance aligned with your activities; put differently, the right Yema is the one that disappears into the action&mdash;swimming, driving, flying, sailing&mdash;while keeping its aesthetic signature, which calls for trying multiple diameters and thicknesses to validate stable, morphology-friendly wearing comfort.
<h3>Choosing your Yema: sizing, context and care</h3>
Start by defining dominant use: daily versatility (Navygraf, &ldquo;skin&rdquo; Superman), nautical activity (Yachtingraf), automotive (Rallygraf/Meangraf), aviation (Flygraf); then confirm real-world size (diameter/thickness/lug-to-lug) and bracelet ergonomics, and arbitrate between a recent &ldquo;in-house&rdquo; calibre and a proven third-party option according to your technical appetite and service constraints&mdash;the aim being long-term coherence among style, function and maintenance.
<ul>
<li>Yema Superman &mdash; Emblematic diver, bezel lock, strong identity.</li>
<li>Yema Navygraf &mdash; High-contrast legibility, versatile marine spirit.</li>
<li>Yema Rallygraf &mdash; Racing codes, readable chronographs.</li>
<li>Yema Yachtingraf &mdash; Regatta indications, nautical styling.</li>
<li>Yema Flygraf &mdash; Pilot orientation, clear functional cues.</li>
</ul>
For care, follow service intervals and have water-resistance checked after any shock or opening; clean bracelet and bezel recesses regularly, and remember that precise adjustment and appropriate lubrication extend timekeeping stability&mdash;simple habits that underpin everyday performance over the long run.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Yema addresses enthusiasts who want expressive tool watches rooted in a French narrative and designed for use first&mdash;diving, road, cockpit or deck. You recognize them by crisp dials, forthright cases and design details that prioritize function. To decide, start from your real practice, refine by size and readability, then choose between heritage re-editions and contemporary interpretations. Finally, cross-check your pick with Dialicious customer reviews to validate long-term relevance.
(Updated October 2025)

Yema watch from the early 70s, in new condition with manual winding...with a diameter of 37 mm it fits perfectly on my 16.5 cm wrist...it has an original tropic bracelet...I had it serviced last year and the watchmaker told me that it was an indestructible model. I find it very elegant.

I adore...

At the beginning of March, knowing that my 60th birthday was coming (August 2nd), I said to myself, why not a watch from 1964 or close to it, in short from the 60s.
So I searched on forums, internet, word of mouth for an early French watch if possible and given the production at the time, I had to find one.
So it was on a Belgian site that I found it; the site; sometimes and it's this Yema automatic with a Swiss ETA caliber.
The site, super serious, watch ordered on a Sunday, received the following Wednesday.
I opened the package, super serious and it is MAGNIFICENT .....
Then I put it aside and opened it again on August 2nd for my 60th birthday.

My 60th birthday.....

Yema YEAU 011, automatic, 40 mm diameter. I think I've had it for 8 years (?) ... I don't wear it... not to my taste anymore. It works very well and is in new condition. I don't know what the movement is, Yema 2000 perhaps? A model without problems that makes me think of an attempt at a revival of the brand. Since then, the evolution is striking and so much the better.

First step for change

I was immediately captivated by this family watch, a vintage rounded rectangular Yema, gold-plated but with a steel case back. 
This watch has a history, and that's what makes it so beautiful... Not only because it comes from the family, but especially because it was serviced by one of the greatest watchmakers in Cairo, who has had his shop passed down from great-grandfather to son since 1903....

A fascinating watchmaker, who also showed me a magnificent Baume et Mercier chronograph engraved in full gold in Arabic on the case back in honor of a high-ranking officer from the time of the great Nasser...

It was this Yema, bequeathed by my uncle, that got me into watchmaking. The beauty of a timepiece, its history, its precision mechanics are worth more to me than the precision of an atomic clock!

The most beautiful of all...

Ollech &amp; Wajs est une maison horlog&egrave;re suisse fond&eacute;e en 1956 &agrave; Zurich par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs ; d&rsquo;abord d&eacute;taillant puis acteur de la vente par correspondance, le duo a b&acirc;ti sa r&eacute;putation sur des montres &laquo; tool &raquo; robustes &mdash; plongeuses, militaires, d&rsquo;aviation &mdash; vendues aux particuliers comme aux forces arm&eacute;es, avant d&rsquo;orchestrer un retour au premier plan au cours des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec une gamme contemporaine qui r&eacute;active les signatures historiques.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse et la vente par correspondance&thinsp;: les d&eacute;buts d&rsquo;un label outil</h3>
D&egrave;s l&rsquo;ouverture de leur petite boutique zurichoise, les fondateurs s&rsquo;attachent &agrave; proposer des montres fiables &agrave; prix tenu, puis &eacute;tendent rapidement l&rsquo;activit&eacute; vers le courrier et les annonces sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;es, et cette distribution directe fa&ccedil;on &laquo; mail-order &raquo; deviendra l&rsquo;un des marqueurs durables de la marque.&nbsp;Le basculement d&rsquo;un r&ocirc;le de d&eacute;taillant vers la cr&eacute;ation de montres sous leur propre nom s&rsquo;op&egrave;re en quelques ann&eacute;es, avec des lignes d&eacute;di&eacute;es aux usages concrets (terrain, mer, cockpit) et une construction volontairement simple et r&eacute;parable, et l&rsquo;obsession est moins la &laquo; complication &raquo; que l&rsquo;endurance et la lisibilit&eacute;.
Dans les ann&eacute;es 1960, la diffusion s&rsquo;&eacute;tend aux bases am&eacute;ricaines et aux PX, o&ugrave; des montres militaires et de plong&eacute;e sign&eacute;es O&amp;W trouvent un public pr&ecirc;t &agrave; les &eacute;prouver en conditions r&eacute;elles, et cette validation par l&rsquo;usage contribue &agrave; installer l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;un outil professionnel abordable.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: la profondeur, la d&eacute;compression et l&rsquo;imaginaire des grandes eaux</h3>
Au milieu des sixties, la maison se distingue par des plongeuses d&rsquo;avant-garde dont la Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, pi&egrave;ce record annonc&eacute;e pour 1000 m qui cristallise l&rsquo;ambition technique de l&rsquo;&eacute;poque et installe le nom O&amp;W dans le paysage de la plong&eacute;e sportive comme professionnelle, et l&rsquo;association avec des partenaires sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s nourrit une esth&eacute;tique rationnelle et sans fioritures.
Dans la m&ecirc;me veine, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph introduit une lunette et une logique de lecture con&ccedil;ues pour accompagner la mont&eacute;e du plongeur et les paliers de d&eacute;compression, ancrant la montre dans un usage pr&eacute;cis plut&ocirc;t que dans l&rsquo;&eacute;vocation d&eacute;corative de la mer, et le cadran reste clair pour pr&eacute;server l&rsquo;instantan&eacute;it&eacute; de la lecture sous l&rsquo;eau.
Ces r&eacute;f&eacute;rences historiques, souvent cit&eacute;es et collectionn&eacute;es aujourd&rsquo;hui, ont fa&ccedil;onn&eacute; un langage fait de bo&icirc;tiers costauds, d&rsquo;&eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s s&eacute;rieuses, de bracelets adapt&eacute;s et de typographies contrast&eacute;es qui affleurent encore dans les mod&egrave;les actuels, et c&rsquo;est cette continuit&eacute; de &laquo; montre-outil &raquo; qui permet de relier le pass&eacute; et le pr&eacute;sent.
<h3>Relance contemporaine, ancrage helv&eacute;tique et cha&icirc;ne courte&thinsp;: le retour d&rsquo;O&amp;W</h3>
Apr&egrave;s avoir travers&eacute; la p&eacute;riode quartz et ralenti la cadence, la marque est reprise par Charles Le Menestrel et relanc&eacute;e &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec la volont&eacute; explicite de prolonger l&rsquo;esprit des origines plut&ocirc;t que de s&rsquo;&eacute;parpiller en s&eacute;ries cosm&eacute;tiques, et&nbsp;le bureau de cr&eacute;ation reste &agrave; Zurich tandis que l&rsquo;assemblage et les r&eacute;glages s&rsquo;effectuent dans le Jura suisse.
La d&eacute;marche privil&eacute;gie des mouvements automatiques suisses &eacute;prouv&eacute;s, une architecture de bo&icirc;te simple &agrave; entretenir, des &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s cr&eacute;dibles et des bracelets &agrave; la fois robustes et faciles &agrave; vivre au quotidien, et le cahier des charges reprend la triade historique : fiabilit&eacute;, lisibilit&eacute;, r&eacute;parabilit&eacute;.
La relance ne se contente pas de &laquo; r&eacute;&eacute;ditions &raquo; au millim&egrave;tre : elle propose des montres nouvelles inspir&eacute;es des usages historiques, rehausse le soin apport&eacute; aux finitions et met en avant un contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; par &eacute;tapes, et le r&eacute;sultat vise une modernit&eacute; pragmatique qui &eacute;vite le pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: familles actuelles et usages concrets</h3>
Les premi&egrave;res r&eacute;f&eacute;rences de l&rsquo;&egrave;re r&eacute;cente prennent la forme de montres d&rsquo;aviation &agrave; taille contenue, Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, qui relecturent les codes cockpit dans une bo&icirc;te polyvalente autour de 39&ndash;40 mm avec saphir et couronne viss&eacute;e, et elles ciblent une lecture instrumentale et une r&eacute;sistance suffisante pour le quotidien.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; plong&eacute;e, la maison propose aujourd&rsquo;hui la Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (ainsi que des &eacute;ditions anniversaires) comme incarnation contemporaine de l&rsquo;esprit Caribbean : valves, joints, fonds viss&eacute;s et traitements soign&eacute;s s&rsquo;additionnent pour offrir un instrument de mer moderne, et le cadran conserve l&rsquo;intelligibilit&eacute; qui a fait la r&eacute;putation de la lign&eacute;e.
En parall&egrave;le, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph revient sous une forme actualis&eacute;e, avec sa logique de lecture li&eacute;e &agrave; la d&eacute;compression qui en fait une plongeuse de caract&egrave;re imm&eacute;diatement reconnaissable au poignet, et cette signature d&rsquo;usage distingue le mod&egrave;le dans un segment satur&eacute;.
La famille Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron s&rsquo;adresse &agrave; celles et ceux qui veulent un chronographe &laquo; outil &raquo; lisible, fid&egrave;le &agrave; l&rsquo;esprit O&amp;W sans exc&egrave;s de complexit&eacute;, avec une ergonomie de poussoirs travaill&eacute;e et une &eacute;chelle claire pour structurer le temps court, et le dessin reste volontairement pratique plut&ocirc;t que d&eacute;monstratif.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; pilote contemporain, diam&egrave;tre contenu, saphir, r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau &eacute;lev&eacute;e, cadran tr&egrave;s lisible, usage &laquo; bureau-terrain &raquo;.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; variante d&rsquo;aviation avec autre signature de lunette et de marquages, m&ecirc;me esprit robuste.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; plongeuse moderne inspir&eacute;e de la Caribbean, &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute; pouss&eacute;e et lecture directe.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; plongeuse instrumentale &agrave; logique de d&eacute;compression, identit&eacute; forte au poignet.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; chronographe &laquo; tool &raquo;, cadran a&eacute;r&eacute; et poussoirs francs, lisibilit&eacute; du temps court.</li>
</ul>
Au-del&agrave; des noms, l&rsquo;important est l&rsquo;usage : pilote pour la lisibilit&eacute; &agrave; plat et la r&eacute;sistance aux chocs de la vie active, plongeuse pour l&rsquo;eau et la robustesse, chronographe pour rythmer les t&acirc;ches et les entra&icirc;nements, et ce d&eacute;coupage aide &agrave; choisir une O&amp;W en fonction d&rsquo;un sc&eacute;nario r&eacute;el plut&ocirc;t que d&rsquo;un simple style.
<h3>Signature &laquo; tool watch &raquo;&thinsp;: mat&eacute;riaux, mouvements, dimensions et bracelets</h3>
Les bo&icirc;tiers actuels privil&eacute;gient l&rsquo;acier, des traitements de surface sobres, des lunettes fonctionnelles et des glaces saphir, avec des diam&egrave;tres g&eacute;n&eacute;ralement compris entre 39 et 42 mm pour pr&eacute;server la polyvalence au quotidien, et le port&eacute; se veut stable gr&acirc;ce &agrave; des cornes ma&icirc;tris&eacute;es et des bracelets ajust&eacute;s.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; motorisation, la marque recourt &agrave; des automatiques suisses contemporains adapt&eacute;s &agrave; l&rsquo;usage intensif, certains r&eacute;gl&eacute;s ou certifi&eacute;s selon versions, et l&rsquo;accent est mis sur la facilit&eacute; d&rsquo;entretien par un horloger comp&eacute;tent partout dans le monde, et cette pragmatique m&eacute;canique refl&egrave;te la vocation utilitaire des montres.
Les bracelets &mdash; acier, textile de type RAF/NATO ou caoutchouc &mdash; sont choisis pour leur s&eacute;curit&eacute;, leur r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau et leur confort, tandis que les boucles et end-links sont travaill&eacute;s pour limiter les points durs, et la modularit&eacute; permet d&rsquo;adapter la m&ecirc;me montre &agrave; des contextes tr&egrave;s diff&eacute;rents.
<h3>Positionnement, prix, distribution et profils d&rsquo;acheteurs</h3>
O&amp;W occupe aujourd&rsquo;hui un segment &laquo; outil de qualit&eacute; &raquo; : finitions soign&eacute;es mais sans ostentation, fiches techniques coh&eacute;rentes, contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; serr&eacute; et communication ax&eacute;e sur l&rsquo;usage plut&ocirc;t que sur le prestige, et le rapport contenu/prix vise la cr&eacute;dibilit&eacute; d&rsquo;un instrument plut&ocirc;t que la posture luxueuse.&nbsp;La distribution m&ecirc;le vente directe en ligne et r&eacute;seau restreint de partenaires, comme <a href="https://bit.ly/4igLuis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Horel</a> &agrave; Bordeaux (France) ou <a href="https://bit.ly/4p27od0" target="_blank" rel="noopener">La Vitrine Horlog&egrave;re</a> en Belgique, avec un discours p&eacute;dagogique sur l&rsquo;h&eacute;ritage et les usages, et&nbsp;ce canal court facilite la coh&eacute;rence tarifaire et la relation avec l&rsquo;atelier.
Le public typique r&eacute;unit des amateurs de montres &laquo; &agrave; faire &raquo; plut&ocirc;t qu&rsquo;&laquo; &agrave; montrer &raquo;, des plongeurs loisirs, des voyageurs qui appr&eacute;cient la solidit&eacute; et des utilisateurs professionnels qui veulent un objet fiable et r&eacute;parable, et la marque parle &agrave; celles et ceux qui pr&eacute;f&egrave;rent la preuve par le port&eacute;.
<h3>Guide de choix&thinsp;: sc&eacute;nario d&rsquo;usage, lisibilit&eacute; et ergonomie</h3>
Commencez par d&eacute;finir l&rsquo;environnement principal : eau, cockpit, bureau-terrain ou sport chronom&eacute;tr&eacute; ; si l&rsquo;eau domine, une Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 ou une Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph seront naturelles, tandis que P-101/P-104 conviendront aux lectures rapides et aux cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s, et le chronographe Navichron servira aux temps courts et aux routines fractionn&eacute;es.
Validez ensuite la lisibilit&eacute; : contraste aiguilles/fond, taille des index, absence de surcharge, visibilit&eacute; de la minuterie et coh&eacute;rence de la lunette avec l&rsquo;usage r&eacute;el, et faites le test &laquo; un m&egrave;tre/un coup d&rsquo;&oelig;il &raquo; en lumi&egrave;re naturelle avant d&rsquo;arr&ecirc;ter votre choix.
Enfin, essayez la montre pour jauger l&rsquo;assise (corne-&agrave;-corne), la couronne dans la paume, la souplesse du bracelet et le tomb&eacute; g&eacute;n&eacute;ral avec vos manches et vos activit&eacute;s, et gardez la version que vous oubliez le plus vite une fois port&eacute;e.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs demeure identifiable par sa vocation d&rsquo;outil : des montres pens&eacute;es pour l&rsquo;usage, lisibles, robustes et suivies par une cha&icirc;ne suisse claire. Entre plongeuses h&eacute;riti&egrave;res de la Caribbean, pilotes modernes et chronographes de travail, la gamme s&rsquo;articule simplement autour de sc&eacute;narios r&eacute;els. Pour d&eacute;cider, partez de votre terrain d&rsquo;emploi, testez lisibilit&eacute; et confort, puis ajustez mati&egrave;re et bracelet ; vous obtiendrez un instrument pertinent qui vieillit bien. Pour croiser ces rep&egrave;res avec des retours d&rsquo;exp&eacute;rience, appuyez-vous sur les avis clients Dialicious.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs is a Swiss watch company founded in 1956 in Zurich by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs; initially a retailer and then a mail-order operator, the duo built a reputation on robust tool watches&mdash;divers, military pieces and pilot instruments&mdash;sold to civilians and service members alike, before orchestrating a modern comeback in the late 2010s with a contemporary range that revives the brand&rsquo;s historic signatures.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse and mail order: the beginnings of a tool-driven label</h3>
From their small Zurich storefront, the founders soon moved from selling other brands to shipping their own watches by post, and this direct &ldquo;mail-order&rdquo; route became a lasting hallmark of the company.&nbsp;The shift from retailing to making watches under their own name took only a few years, with dedicated lines for concrete use cases (field, sea, cockpit) and constructions that favoured simple, repairable mechanics, and the focus was less on &ldquo;complication&rdquo; than on endurance and clarity.
In the 1960s, distribution extended to US military PX stores, where O&amp;W military and dive watches were tried in real-world conditions by service members, and this usage-led validation helped cement the image of an affordable professional instrument.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 and Ocean Graph: depth, decompression and the great-waters playbook</h3>
By the mid-sixties the brand stood out with cutting-edge divers, notably the Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, a thousand-metre-rated watch that crystallised the era&rsquo;s technical ambition and lodged the O&amp;W name in both recreational and professional diving, and partnerships with specialist makers fed a rational, no-nonsense aesthetic.
In the same spirit, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph brought a bezel and reading logic tailored to ascent and decompression stops, rooting the watch in a specific task rather than mere maritime d&eacute;cor, and the dial stayed clean to preserve underwater glance legibility.
These historic references&mdash;often cited and collected today&mdash;shaped a language of stout cases, serious water-resistance, practical bracelets and high-contrast typography that still surfaces in current models, and this through-line of &ldquo;tool first&rdquo; connects past to present.
<h3>Contemporary relaunch, Swiss anchoring and a short chain: O&amp;W&rsquo;s return</h3>
After weathering the quartz era and slowing down, the brand was revived in the late 2010s by Charles Le Menestrel with the explicit aim of extending the founding spirit rather than scattering into cosmetic runs, and&nbsp;design remains in Zurich while assembly and adjustment take place in the Swiss Jura.
The approach favours proven Swiss automatic movements, serviceable case architecture, credible water-resistance and bracelets built for comfort and durability, and the specification re-embraces the classic triad: reliability, legibility, serviceability.&nbsp;The comeback is not a millimetre-for-millimetre facsimile exercise; instead, it offers new watches inspired by historic use, upgrades finishing and emphasises stepwise quality control, and the outcome is a pragmatic modernity that avoids pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 and Ocean Graph: today&rsquo;s families and real use</h3>
The first modern releases took the form of compact pilot watches, the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, which reinterpret cockpit codes in versatile 39&ndash;40 mm cases with sapphire and screw-down crowns, and they target instrumental reading and all-day resilience.
On the dive side, the brand offers the Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (along with anniversary editions) as a contemporary take on the Caribbean ethos: seals, casebacks, and careful treatment combine into a modern sea instrument, and the dial retains the intelligibility that made the line&rsquo;s reputation.
In parallel, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph returned in an updated form, with its decompression-centred readout making for an instantly recognisable diver on the wrist, and this task-specific signature sets it apart in a crowded segment.
The Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron family serves those who want a readable, work-ready chronograph true to the O&amp;W spirit, with well-judged pushers and crisp scales for short-time duties, and the design stays deliberately practical rather than showy.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; contemporary pilot, compact diameter, sapphire, strong water-resistance, very legible dial for desk-to-field wear.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; aviation variant with a different bezel and markings signature, same robust intent.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; modern diver inspired by the Caribbean, serious water-proofing and direct readout.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; instrumental diver with decompression logic, strong identity on the wrist.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; &ldquo;tool&rdquo; chronograph, open dial and assertive pushers, clarity in short-time work.</li>
</ul>
Beyond names, what matters is use: a pilot for flat-plane readability and shock tolerance in active life; a diver for water and sturdiness; a chronograph to pace tasks and training, and this split helps pick an O&amp;W by real scenario rather than by style alone.
<h3>Tool-watch signature: materials, movements, dimensions and straps</h3>
Current cases prioritise steel, sober surface treatments, functional bezels and sapphire crystals, with diameters largely between 39 and 42 mm to sustain daily versatility, and on-wrist stability comes from disciplined lug spans and well-matched bracelets.
Mechanically, the brand uses modern, Swiss automatic calibres suited to intensive use&mdash;some adjusted or certified depending on versions&mdash;while ensuring that any competent watchmaker can service them, and this pragmatic mechanics reflects the utilitarian brief.
Bracelets&mdash;steel, RAF/NATO-type textile or rubber&mdash;are chosen for security, water-readiness and comfort, with buckles and end-links designed to minimise hot-spots, and modularity lets a single watch adapt to very different contexts.
<h3>Positioning, prices, channels and buyer profiles</h3>
O&amp;W sits in a &ldquo;quality tool&rdquo; segment: tidy finishing without ostentation, coherent spec sheets, tight quality control and messaging anchored in use rather than prestige, and the value proposition seeks instrument credibility rather than luxury posturing.
Distribution blends direct online sales with a small partner network and a didactic narrative about heritage and use, and this short channel supports coherent pricing and a clear link to the workshop.&nbsp;The core audience mixes owners who prefer watches to &ldquo;do&rdquo; rather than to &ldquo;show,&rdquo; recreational divers, travellers who prize sturdiness and professionals who need reliable, serviceable objects, and the brand resonates with those who trust proof of wear over glossy claims.
<h3>Selection guide: use case, legibility and ergonomics</h3>
Start by mapping your main environment&mdash;water, cockpit, desk-to-field or timed sport; if water rules, a Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 or Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph is natural, whereas P-101/P-104 suit quick, uncluttered reads, and the Navichron chronograph serves intervals and structured routines.
Next validate legibility: hand-to-dial contrast, index size, minimal clutter, minute track visibility and bezel logic that matches how you actually use it, and run the &ldquo;one-metre/one-glance&rdquo; test in natural light before deciding.
Finally, try the watch to judge stance (lug-to-lug), crown feel in the palm, bracelet suppleness and how it sits with sleeves and tasks, and keep the version you forget the fastest once strapped on.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs remains identifiable by its purpose-built vocation: watches made for use&mdash;readable, robust and supported by a clear Swiss chain. Between divers that channel the Caribbean legacy, modern pilot pieces and work-ready chronographs, the range is organised simply around real-world scenarios. To choose well, start with where you&rsquo;ll wear it, test clarity and comfort, then tune material and strap; you&rsquo;ll land on a capable instrument that ages well. To square these cues with long-term ownership feedback, a helpful compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated August 2025)

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