The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

What a look, this CADOLA! Very original indexes, broad arrow hands, a second hand with a red tip, a very thin bezel, a lovely case shape with beveled lugs, and a magnificent patina.
CADOLA is a brand I'd heard of a few times, but I hadn't really looked into it.
However, when I saw this one for sale, I couldn't resist. I had to have it in my collection. It also gave me the opportunity to deepen my knowledge of this brand. CADOLA divers from the 1960s are very rare, especially in 20 ATM, as it's a brand that mainly made classic watches and chronographs.
Today, the brand still exists and specializes in vintage-look sports watches, even having a partnership with Cosworth.
Coming back to mine, it has a 38 mm case and a very precise ETA 2472 caliber. I wear it very rarely, but always with immense pleasure.

A rare diver

I was looking for a caliber 11 (Heuer-Breitling-Hamilton-Buren) because I have wanted to have one in my collection for years. But I could not decide, because in my wildest desires, I dreamed of a Breitling Chrono-matic 2130. Except that I know that it is almost impossible to find! I have rarely seen one for sale (on the net or at auction), not even one per year. I even read an article on Breitling where it was written that the 2130 was the rarest Breitling of the 70s, if not the rarest of all Breitlings. In addition, I wanted the black dial version, so with the 2 "gold sunray" counters, but in good condition. Except that on the black dial, the "gold" counters are almost all stained (ugly brown spots form). And finally, in my dreams, I bought him a matte black leather strap. Needless to say, I had a better chance of winning the lottery than finding the rare gem. And yet, after years of patience, I came across this 2130 for sale in Germany. I pinch myself: no, it's not a dream. I immediately contact the seller (not buying it was unthinkable for me), but I still negotiated it down by €300 (it doesn't hurt to try)! So it's a Breitling Chrono-matic reference 2130 from 1978. The 2130, unlike the more common 2110 and 2112, has "lyre" shaped lugs, a bit like on the Speedmaster. It may not seem like much, but it changes the entire appearance of the watch and gives it that indefinable charm. Mine is equipped with caliber 11 (19800 vibrations), but most of the 2130s are equipped with caliber 12 (21600 vibrations and more reliable). There is also a 2130 caliber 15, but with a different dial type. 42 hours of power reserve, 38 mm case, crown on the left, hour and minute counters, no small seconds. This is the first self-winding chronograph.....(I'm getting Zenith fans excited).....that is equipped with a micro-rotor. The movement is very reliable, very quiet, and the winding is very smooth. The condition is exceptional, close to new, because the previous owner wore it very little (1st hand), and so did I. It is a very endearing watch, but unfortunately very rare. It also exists with a white dial with black counters and applied indexes, but it is just as rare. There are also color variations (white or orange) on each hand, and the date is either black or white. That makes for a lot of possible combinations. If you are lucky enough to find one, don't be surprised if it is a little different from mine. Personally, I have yet to find the same configuration as mine in all the photos posted by 2130 owners around the world. To conclude: I have found my holy grail (it always makes you believe in Santa Claus), and you can imagine that it is my favorite watch in my entire collection. I will never sell this watch (yet another 2130 on the market!).

You should always believe in Santa Claus

Another small watch from my collection that's worth a look. CODHOR was founded in 1964. It was a cooperative of watchmakers (hence the name) who made products accessible to all, but without neglecting quality. The brand still exists, by the way.
That's what I love about these vintage watches: no pretensions, but robustness, efficiency, good workmanship, and a beautiful design. Nothing extraordinary, but no hassle. When you decide to put it on your wrist, you wind it up, and it will never let you down. No servicing required (unless you're on the lookout for every second for all your appointments). It's these "small" watches that made me fall in love with vintage.

No hassle

This beautiful DREFFA Genève shines brightly. The outer band of the dial is mirror-treated, the indexes are hollowed out of the dial and polished, and the two equally polished hands end up creating a whole that sparkles in the slightest light. The watch isn't exactly discreet on the wrist, but what a look nonetheless! A beautiful movement and a nice case complete this DREFFA that lives up to its name.

Always quality

A very simple ETERNA, with a very pure design, without any frills. This creates a watch that dates back to the late 1960s, but which stands the test of time without really going out of fashion. In addition, its movement is impressively precise. The 36 mm case also doesn't betray its age. A very beautiful watch that seems eternal and lives up to its name.

Classic but desirable

July 1981, I just turned 14. First summer job and also my first paycheck. I had already scouted watch shops in my town a few weeks earlier, and I had already chosen the watch I would buy at the end of the month. And as soon as I got my paycheck, I rushed out and bought this Emile Pequignet Equus.
Why this choice? At 14, this watch looked rather classic, almost like an "old man's watch." But I didn't care about what others thought. I was buying a watch for myself, not for others.
At the time, I was already passionate about watches, and there was one watch I really loved: the Hermes Arceau.
I obviously didn't have the budget to buy one, but it made me dream. And somehow, this Emile Pequignet had a hint of Hermes (at least that's what I tried to make myself believe). And since the watchmaker who sold it to me was an AD of the brand, he explained the history of Pequignet and the quality of the product, which finally persuaded me to buy it. The price was not insignificant for the time.
I only kept it on my wrist for a year, but I wore it every day, even to school. I loved this watch and the very classy look of the dial, the finesse of its case, and its precision. Then I moved on. And seven years later, I bought myself a Hermes Arceau for my 21st birthday. The circle was complete.
Today, when I look at the Pequignet, it reminds me of my youth. It is just as it was then, with very minimal signs of wear and its original leather strap signed Péquignet. Still as beautiful as ever!

Looking back on my youth

The French watch brand LIP is an emblematic figure of the watch industry, recognized for his innovation, his avant-garde design and his history rich in twists and turns. Founded in 1867 in Besan&ccedil;on, LIP has gone through periods of glory, economic challenges and social struggles, while leaving an indelible mark in the history of French watchmaking.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: Foundation and Expansion (1867-1930)</h2>
The history of LIP begins in 1867 when Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besan&ccedil;on, the French capital of watchmaking. Initially named "Comptoir Lipmann", the workshop specializes in the manufacture of high quality pocket watches. In 1893, the company became the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; Anonyme d'Horlogerie Lipmann Fr&egrave;res" and adopted the brand LIP, acronym of the founder's initials.
At the beginning of the 20th century, LIP stood out for its technical and aesthetic innovations. In 1904, the brand introduced the "Lip" pocket chronometer, which met with notable success. LIP is quickly positioning itself as a major player in French watchmaking, combining precision and elegance in its creations.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Age of Innovation: The 1930s-1950s</h2>
Under the direction of Fred Lip, son of Ernest Lipmann, LIP enters a period of intense innovation. In 1933, the brand launched the model <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/t18">Lip T18</a>, a rectangular wristwatch equipped with a high-precision movement. This model became emblematic and was offered in 1948 to Winston Churchill in recognition of his role during the Second World War.
In the 1950s, LIP continued to innovate by introducing&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/electronic">Lip Electronic</a> in 1952, the first French electronic watch. This model uses a quartz crystal to keep time, constituting a significant advancement in watchmaking technology. Lip offered at this time the first models&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/himalaya">Lip Himalaya</a> which still remain in the catalog today.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1960s: Expansion and Avant-Garde Design</h2>
The 1960s marked a period of expansion for LIP like the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/nautic-ski">Lip Nautic-Ski</a> presented during the Grenoble Olympic Games in 1968. It was also the beginning of collaborations with renowned designers to create watches with innovative designs. In 1967, the brand called on Roger Tallon, famous industrial designer, to design the collection&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/mach_2000">Lip Mach 2000</a>. These watches are distinguished by their futuristic aesthetic and their bold shapes, breaking with traditional watchmaking codes.
At the same time, LIP develops watches intended for specific uses, notably for pilots and divers, thus strengthening its reputation as a manufacturer of technical and reliable watches.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1970s: Crisis and Social Struggles</h2>
Despite its successes, LIP faced financial difficulties at the end of the 1960s, exacerbated by international competition and changes in the watch market. In 1973, the company was placed in liquidation, triggering a series of strikes and factory occupations by workers. This social movement, known as "LIP Conflict", became emblematic of workers' struggles in France and attracted national media attention.
The employees, led by the trade unionist Charles Piaget, took control of production and continued to manufacture and sell watches under the slogan "It's possible: we make, we sell, we get paid!". This experiment in self-management aroused broad popular support and symbolized workers' resistance to factory closures.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1980s-1990s: Relaunch Attempts and Changes in Ownership</h2>
After the liquidation of LIP in 1977, several attempts at revival were undertaken. In 1984, the brand was bought by the "Kipl&eacute;" company, but this initiative failed, leading to another liquidation in 1986. In 1990, the businessman Jean-Claude Sensemat acquired the brand and successfully relaunched production, relying on modern marketing methods and reissuing iconic models. Under his leadership, LIP experienced a renaissance and achieved significant sales.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2000s: Renewal and Modernization</h2>
In 2002, Jean-Claude Sensemat signed a worldwide licensing contract with Jean-Luc Bernerd, who created the Manufacture G&eacute;n&eacute;rale Horlog&egrave;re in Lectoure, in the Gers region, to produce LIP watches. This collaboration makes it possible to modernize the collections while respecting the brand's heritage. LIP continues to offer reissues of historic models, while introducing new creations adapted to contemporary tastes.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2010s: Back to Basics and Sustainable Development</h2>
In 2015, the brand was bought by the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; des Montres Bisontines" (SMB), based in Ch&acirc;tillon-le-Duc, near Besan&ccedil;on, France. This return to geographical sources marks a new stage in the history of LIP, which strengthens its local roots and its commitment to sustainable development. Production is relocated to France, and the brand strives to promote French watchmaking know-how. LIP continues to offer its emblematic collections which have marked its history, seeking to meet the expectations of modern consumers.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the most popular French watch brands</a>, including LIP.
(Updated November 2024)

In the history of LIP, the T18 has left its mark in a significant way. Indeed, this model from the 30s/40s, already appreciated for the quality of its caliber, was recognized when a solid gold copy was offered to Winston Churchill in 1948, becoming the "Churchill". It has been reissued since 1988, and is still in the LIP catalog, but with a Quartz (???!!) Ronda (?????????!!!!) movement. If you are looking for one, prefer an original like this one. Perhaps less precise, but more in the spirit of LIP.
(To be completely objective and precise, LIP also reissued the T18 with a gold-plated case and a movement in every way identical to that of the 30s, limited to 180 copies, for around €2,500 (all sold))
I bought mine at least 30 years ago. This is a watch that has always attracted me: as legitimate as a Cartier Tank, but less expensive (less well finished too, but you can't have everything at this price!).
Having lain dormant for about twenty years, it is a little worn, but it will be entitled to a complete overhaul by my watchmaker very soon. It will thus start up again more beautifully for several decades on my wrist.

An icon in its own right

I'd like to introduce you to the watch I use as a dress watch. It's a T18 which, to my knowledge, was produced between 1945 and 1947 (the "made in France" inscription on the dial only appeared after 1945, and production of the cases with soldered lugs ceased in 1947).

This watch is exceptional; it's in remarkable condition despite its age (80 years old, after all!). The dial and blued hands complement each other perfectly.

It's an old lady, so it needs to be treated with care, as parts for repairs are becoming increasingly rare, according to my watchmaker. It's not waterproof and not the most accurate, but its charm lies elsewhere. It's an iconic model, a symbol of the past (or not!) grandeur of French watchmaking.

Lip T18 from the 1940s

LIP T18 watch, part of the first generation. This model was launched by LIP in the 1930s. 
We find several elements on the dial, first of all the old LIP logo, composed only of the 3 letters.
Also a small second at 6 o'clock and the blued hands. I particularly like the patina caused by the life of the watch.
Small watch that is worn rather with a dressy clothing style (suit shirt).
This small caliber offers in particular great lightness.

LIP T18 Vintage

This is without a doubt the most vintage watch I own, and for good reason: it dates back to the 1940s, that's saying something!
It's no longer a watch; it's a piece of history.

I needed a vintage model in my collection. Already owning a Lip Churchill T26 (an automatic model at the time), I didn't immediately consider Lip, but it ultimately became obvious.

The T26 model was very nice but quite thick, especially because of the automatic movement, and it was becoming difficult to wear for a dress watch.

So I tried to replace it with THE original model, the vintage T18, which isn't easy to find in good condition these days.

I was finally able to acquire it thanks to a private individual who had found one at a flea market in Paris. It's a very well-maintained and serviced model at Cartier, in its original condition, of course, but it tells so much!

It's one of the watches I own that I wear the least regularly, as it's difficult to match due to its very vintage look and its fragility, but I still enjoy bringing it out from time to time when the occasion calls for it.

A true piece of history on the wrist, with a capital H, that perfectly complements any collection.

LIP Churchill T18, French elegance

The desire to treat myself to an elegant mechanical watch is at the origin of this acquisition. I wanted it to be rectangular, with European mechanics, both modern and retro. My patience was rewarded when LIP presented this limited series of 180 pieces. Today, it is the only one in my collection in this style, I wear it on rare occasions, mostly dinners and it is always with undisguised pleasure that I put it on my wrist.
Mechanical, I have to wind it daily and the crown is very thin, which does not make winding easy. This is the only black point noted. It is not solid gold, it is a gold plating and not a pvd or dlc treatment.

Rare and elegant

Ollech &amp; Wajs est une maison horlog&egrave;re suisse fond&eacute;e en 1956 &agrave; Zurich par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs ; d&rsquo;abord d&eacute;taillant puis acteur de la vente par correspondance, le duo a b&acirc;ti sa r&eacute;putation sur des montres &laquo; tool &raquo; robustes &mdash; plongeuses, militaires, d&rsquo;aviation &mdash; vendues aux particuliers comme aux forces arm&eacute;es, avant d&rsquo;orchestrer un retour au premier plan au cours des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec une gamme contemporaine qui r&eacute;active les signatures historiques.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse et la vente par correspondance&thinsp;: les d&eacute;buts d&rsquo;un label outil</h3>
D&egrave;s l&rsquo;ouverture de leur petite boutique zurichoise, les fondateurs s&rsquo;attachent &agrave; proposer des montres fiables &agrave; prix tenu, puis &eacute;tendent rapidement l&rsquo;activit&eacute; vers le courrier et les annonces sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;es, et cette distribution directe fa&ccedil;on &laquo; mail-order &raquo; deviendra l&rsquo;un des marqueurs durables de la marque.&nbsp;Le basculement d&rsquo;un r&ocirc;le de d&eacute;taillant vers la cr&eacute;ation de montres sous leur propre nom s&rsquo;op&egrave;re en quelques ann&eacute;es, avec des lignes d&eacute;di&eacute;es aux usages concrets (terrain, mer, cockpit) et une construction volontairement simple et r&eacute;parable, et l&rsquo;obsession est moins la &laquo; complication &raquo; que l&rsquo;endurance et la lisibilit&eacute;.
Dans les ann&eacute;es 1960, la diffusion s&rsquo;&eacute;tend aux bases am&eacute;ricaines et aux PX, o&ugrave; des montres militaires et de plong&eacute;e sign&eacute;es O&amp;W trouvent un public pr&ecirc;t &agrave; les &eacute;prouver en conditions r&eacute;elles, et cette validation par l&rsquo;usage contribue &agrave; installer l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;un outil professionnel abordable.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: la profondeur, la d&eacute;compression et l&rsquo;imaginaire des grandes eaux</h3>
Au milieu des sixties, la maison se distingue par des plongeuses d&rsquo;avant-garde dont la Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, pi&egrave;ce record annonc&eacute;e pour 1000 m qui cristallise l&rsquo;ambition technique de l&rsquo;&eacute;poque et installe le nom O&amp;W dans le paysage de la plong&eacute;e sportive comme professionnelle, et l&rsquo;association avec des partenaires sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s nourrit une esth&eacute;tique rationnelle et sans fioritures.
Dans la m&ecirc;me veine, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph introduit une lunette et une logique de lecture con&ccedil;ues pour accompagner la mont&eacute;e du plongeur et les paliers de d&eacute;compression, ancrant la montre dans un usage pr&eacute;cis plut&ocirc;t que dans l&rsquo;&eacute;vocation d&eacute;corative de la mer, et le cadran reste clair pour pr&eacute;server l&rsquo;instantan&eacute;it&eacute; de la lecture sous l&rsquo;eau.
Ces r&eacute;f&eacute;rences historiques, souvent cit&eacute;es et collectionn&eacute;es aujourd&rsquo;hui, ont fa&ccedil;onn&eacute; un langage fait de bo&icirc;tiers costauds, d&rsquo;&eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s s&eacute;rieuses, de bracelets adapt&eacute;s et de typographies contrast&eacute;es qui affleurent encore dans les mod&egrave;les actuels, et c&rsquo;est cette continuit&eacute; de &laquo; montre-outil &raquo; qui permet de relier le pass&eacute; et le pr&eacute;sent.
<h3>Relance contemporaine, ancrage helv&eacute;tique et cha&icirc;ne courte&thinsp;: le retour d&rsquo;O&amp;W</h3>
Apr&egrave;s avoir travers&eacute; la p&eacute;riode quartz et ralenti la cadence, la marque est reprise par Charles Le Menestrel et relanc&eacute;e &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec la volont&eacute; explicite de prolonger l&rsquo;esprit des origines plut&ocirc;t que de s&rsquo;&eacute;parpiller en s&eacute;ries cosm&eacute;tiques, et&nbsp;le bureau de cr&eacute;ation reste &agrave; Zurich tandis que l&rsquo;assemblage et les r&eacute;glages s&rsquo;effectuent dans le Jura suisse.
La d&eacute;marche privil&eacute;gie des mouvements automatiques suisses &eacute;prouv&eacute;s, une architecture de bo&icirc;te simple &agrave; entretenir, des &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s cr&eacute;dibles et des bracelets &agrave; la fois robustes et faciles &agrave; vivre au quotidien, et le cahier des charges reprend la triade historique : fiabilit&eacute;, lisibilit&eacute;, r&eacute;parabilit&eacute;.
La relance ne se contente pas de &laquo; r&eacute;&eacute;ditions &raquo; au millim&egrave;tre : elle propose des montres nouvelles inspir&eacute;es des usages historiques, rehausse le soin apport&eacute; aux finitions et met en avant un contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; par &eacute;tapes, et le r&eacute;sultat vise une modernit&eacute; pragmatique qui &eacute;vite le pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: familles actuelles et usages concrets</h3>
Les premi&egrave;res r&eacute;f&eacute;rences de l&rsquo;&egrave;re r&eacute;cente prennent la forme de montres d&rsquo;aviation &agrave; taille contenue, Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, qui relecturent les codes cockpit dans une bo&icirc;te polyvalente autour de 39&ndash;40 mm avec saphir et couronne viss&eacute;e, et elles ciblent une lecture instrumentale et une r&eacute;sistance suffisante pour le quotidien.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; plong&eacute;e, la maison propose aujourd&rsquo;hui la Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (ainsi que des &eacute;ditions anniversaires) comme incarnation contemporaine de l&rsquo;esprit Caribbean : valves, joints, fonds viss&eacute;s et traitements soign&eacute;s s&rsquo;additionnent pour offrir un instrument de mer moderne, et le cadran conserve l&rsquo;intelligibilit&eacute; qui a fait la r&eacute;putation de la lign&eacute;e.
En parall&egrave;le, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph revient sous une forme actualis&eacute;e, avec sa logique de lecture li&eacute;e &agrave; la d&eacute;compression qui en fait une plongeuse de caract&egrave;re imm&eacute;diatement reconnaissable au poignet, et cette signature d&rsquo;usage distingue le mod&egrave;le dans un segment satur&eacute;.
La famille Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron s&rsquo;adresse &agrave; celles et ceux qui veulent un chronographe &laquo; outil &raquo; lisible, fid&egrave;le &agrave; l&rsquo;esprit O&amp;W sans exc&egrave;s de complexit&eacute;, avec une ergonomie de poussoirs travaill&eacute;e et une &eacute;chelle claire pour structurer le temps court, et le dessin reste volontairement pratique plut&ocirc;t que d&eacute;monstratif.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; pilote contemporain, diam&egrave;tre contenu, saphir, r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau &eacute;lev&eacute;e, cadran tr&egrave;s lisible, usage &laquo; bureau-terrain &raquo;.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; variante d&rsquo;aviation avec autre signature de lunette et de marquages, m&ecirc;me esprit robuste.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; plongeuse moderne inspir&eacute;e de la Caribbean, &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute; pouss&eacute;e et lecture directe.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; plongeuse instrumentale &agrave; logique de d&eacute;compression, identit&eacute; forte au poignet.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; chronographe &laquo; tool &raquo;, cadran a&eacute;r&eacute; et poussoirs francs, lisibilit&eacute; du temps court.</li>
</ul>
Au-del&agrave; des noms, l&rsquo;important est l&rsquo;usage : pilote pour la lisibilit&eacute; &agrave; plat et la r&eacute;sistance aux chocs de la vie active, plongeuse pour l&rsquo;eau et la robustesse, chronographe pour rythmer les t&acirc;ches et les entra&icirc;nements, et ce d&eacute;coupage aide &agrave; choisir une O&amp;W en fonction d&rsquo;un sc&eacute;nario r&eacute;el plut&ocirc;t que d&rsquo;un simple style.
<h3>Signature &laquo; tool watch &raquo;&thinsp;: mat&eacute;riaux, mouvements, dimensions et bracelets</h3>
Les bo&icirc;tiers actuels privil&eacute;gient l&rsquo;acier, des traitements de surface sobres, des lunettes fonctionnelles et des glaces saphir, avec des diam&egrave;tres g&eacute;n&eacute;ralement compris entre 39 et 42 mm pour pr&eacute;server la polyvalence au quotidien, et le port&eacute; se veut stable gr&acirc;ce &agrave; des cornes ma&icirc;tris&eacute;es et des bracelets ajust&eacute;s.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; motorisation, la marque recourt &agrave; des automatiques suisses contemporains adapt&eacute;s &agrave; l&rsquo;usage intensif, certains r&eacute;gl&eacute;s ou certifi&eacute;s selon versions, et l&rsquo;accent est mis sur la facilit&eacute; d&rsquo;entretien par un horloger comp&eacute;tent partout dans le monde, et cette pragmatique m&eacute;canique refl&egrave;te la vocation utilitaire des montres.
Les bracelets &mdash; acier, textile de type RAF/NATO ou caoutchouc &mdash; sont choisis pour leur s&eacute;curit&eacute;, leur r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau et leur confort, tandis que les boucles et end-links sont travaill&eacute;s pour limiter les points durs, et la modularit&eacute; permet d&rsquo;adapter la m&ecirc;me montre &agrave; des contextes tr&egrave;s diff&eacute;rents.
<h3>Positionnement, prix, distribution et profils d&rsquo;acheteurs</h3>
O&amp;W occupe aujourd&rsquo;hui un segment &laquo; outil de qualit&eacute; &raquo; : finitions soign&eacute;es mais sans ostentation, fiches techniques coh&eacute;rentes, contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; serr&eacute; et communication ax&eacute;e sur l&rsquo;usage plut&ocirc;t que sur le prestige, et le rapport contenu/prix vise la cr&eacute;dibilit&eacute; d&rsquo;un instrument plut&ocirc;t que la posture luxueuse.&nbsp;La distribution m&ecirc;le vente directe en ligne et r&eacute;seau restreint de partenaires, comme <a href="https://bit.ly/4igLuis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Horel</a> &agrave; Bordeaux (France) ou <a href="https://bit.ly/4p27od0" target="_blank" rel="noopener">La Vitrine Horlog&egrave;re</a> en Belgique, avec un discours p&eacute;dagogique sur l&rsquo;h&eacute;ritage et les usages, et&nbsp;ce canal court facilite la coh&eacute;rence tarifaire et la relation avec l&rsquo;atelier.
Le public typique r&eacute;unit des amateurs de montres &laquo; &agrave; faire &raquo; plut&ocirc;t qu&rsquo;&laquo; &agrave; montrer &raquo;, des plongeurs loisirs, des voyageurs qui appr&eacute;cient la solidit&eacute; et des utilisateurs professionnels qui veulent un objet fiable et r&eacute;parable, et la marque parle &agrave; celles et ceux qui pr&eacute;f&egrave;rent la preuve par le port&eacute;.
<h3>Guide de choix&thinsp;: sc&eacute;nario d&rsquo;usage, lisibilit&eacute; et ergonomie</h3>
Commencez par d&eacute;finir l&rsquo;environnement principal : eau, cockpit, bureau-terrain ou sport chronom&eacute;tr&eacute; ; si l&rsquo;eau domine, une Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 ou une Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph seront naturelles, tandis que P-101/P-104 conviendront aux lectures rapides et aux cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s, et le chronographe Navichron servira aux temps courts et aux routines fractionn&eacute;es.
Validez ensuite la lisibilit&eacute; : contraste aiguilles/fond, taille des index, absence de surcharge, visibilit&eacute; de la minuterie et coh&eacute;rence de la lunette avec l&rsquo;usage r&eacute;el, et faites le test &laquo; un m&egrave;tre/un coup d&rsquo;&oelig;il &raquo; en lumi&egrave;re naturelle avant d&rsquo;arr&ecirc;ter votre choix.
Enfin, essayez la montre pour jauger l&rsquo;assise (corne-&agrave;-corne), la couronne dans la paume, la souplesse du bracelet et le tomb&eacute; g&eacute;n&eacute;ral avec vos manches et vos activit&eacute;s, et gardez la version que vous oubliez le plus vite une fois port&eacute;e.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs demeure identifiable par sa vocation d&rsquo;outil : des montres pens&eacute;es pour l&rsquo;usage, lisibles, robustes et suivies par une cha&icirc;ne suisse claire. Entre plongeuses h&eacute;riti&egrave;res de la Caribbean, pilotes modernes et chronographes de travail, la gamme s&rsquo;articule simplement autour de sc&eacute;narios r&eacute;els. Pour d&eacute;cider, partez de votre terrain d&rsquo;emploi, testez lisibilit&eacute; et confort, puis ajustez mati&egrave;re et bracelet ; vous obtiendrez un instrument pertinent qui vieillit bien. Pour croiser ces rep&egrave;res avec des retours d&rsquo;exp&eacute;rience, appuyez-vous sur les avis clients Dialicious.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs is a Swiss watch company founded in 1956 in Zurich by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs; initially a retailer and then a mail-order operator, the duo built a reputation on robust tool watches&mdash;divers, military pieces and pilot instruments&mdash;sold to civilians and service members alike, before orchestrating a modern comeback in the late 2010s with a contemporary range that revives the brand&rsquo;s historic signatures.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse and mail order: the beginnings of a tool-driven label</h3>
From their small Zurich storefront, the founders soon moved from selling other brands to shipping their own watches by post, and this direct &ldquo;mail-order&rdquo; route became a lasting hallmark of the company.&nbsp;The shift from retailing to making watches under their own name took only a few years, with dedicated lines for concrete use cases (field, sea, cockpit) and constructions that favoured simple, repairable mechanics, and the focus was less on &ldquo;complication&rdquo; than on endurance and clarity.
In the 1960s, distribution extended to US military PX stores, where O&amp;W military and dive watches were tried in real-world conditions by service members, and this usage-led validation helped cement the image of an affordable professional instrument.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 and Ocean Graph: depth, decompression and the great-waters playbook</h3>
By the mid-sixties the brand stood out with cutting-edge divers, notably the Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, a thousand-metre-rated watch that crystallised the era&rsquo;s technical ambition and lodged the O&amp;W name in both recreational and professional diving, and partnerships with specialist makers fed a rational, no-nonsense aesthetic.
In the same spirit, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph brought a bezel and reading logic tailored to ascent and decompression stops, rooting the watch in a specific task rather than mere maritime d&eacute;cor, and the dial stayed clean to preserve underwater glance legibility.
These historic references&mdash;often cited and collected today&mdash;shaped a language of stout cases, serious water-resistance, practical bracelets and high-contrast typography that still surfaces in current models, and this through-line of &ldquo;tool first&rdquo; connects past to present.
<h3>Contemporary relaunch, Swiss anchoring and a short chain: O&amp;W&rsquo;s return</h3>
After weathering the quartz era and slowing down, the brand was revived in the late 2010s by Charles Le Menestrel with the explicit aim of extending the founding spirit rather than scattering into cosmetic runs, and&nbsp;design remains in Zurich while assembly and adjustment take place in the Swiss Jura.
The approach favours proven Swiss automatic movements, serviceable case architecture, credible water-resistance and bracelets built for comfort and durability, and the specification re-embraces the classic triad: reliability, legibility, serviceability.&nbsp;The comeback is not a millimetre-for-millimetre facsimile exercise; instead, it offers new watches inspired by historic use, upgrades finishing and emphasises stepwise quality control, and the outcome is a pragmatic modernity that avoids pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 and Ocean Graph: today&rsquo;s families and real use</h3>
The first modern releases took the form of compact pilot watches, the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, which reinterpret cockpit codes in versatile 39&ndash;40 mm cases with sapphire and screw-down crowns, and they target instrumental reading and all-day resilience.
On the dive side, the brand offers the Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (along with anniversary editions) as a contemporary take on the Caribbean ethos: seals, casebacks, and careful treatment combine into a modern sea instrument, and the dial retains the intelligibility that made the line&rsquo;s reputation.
In parallel, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph returned in an updated form, with its decompression-centred readout making for an instantly recognisable diver on the wrist, and this task-specific signature sets it apart in a crowded segment.
The Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron family serves those who want a readable, work-ready chronograph true to the O&amp;W spirit, with well-judged pushers and crisp scales for short-time duties, and the design stays deliberately practical rather than showy.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; contemporary pilot, compact diameter, sapphire, strong water-resistance, very legible dial for desk-to-field wear.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; aviation variant with a different bezel and markings signature, same robust intent.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; modern diver inspired by the Caribbean, serious water-proofing and direct readout.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; instrumental diver with decompression logic, strong identity on the wrist.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; &ldquo;tool&rdquo; chronograph, open dial and assertive pushers, clarity in short-time work.</li>
</ul>
Beyond names, what matters is use: a pilot for flat-plane readability and shock tolerance in active life; a diver for water and sturdiness; a chronograph to pace tasks and training, and this split helps pick an O&amp;W by real scenario rather than by style alone.
<h3>Tool-watch signature: materials, movements, dimensions and straps</h3>
Current cases prioritise steel, sober surface treatments, functional bezels and sapphire crystals, with diameters largely between 39 and 42 mm to sustain daily versatility, and on-wrist stability comes from disciplined lug spans and well-matched bracelets.
Mechanically, the brand uses modern, Swiss automatic calibres suited to intensive use&mdash;some adjusted or certified depending on versions&mdash;while ensuring that any competent watchmaker can service them, and this pragmatic mechanics reflects the utilitarian brief.
Bracelets&mdash;steel, RAF/NATO-type textile or rubber&mdash;are chosen for security, water-readiness and comfort, with buckles and end-links designed to minimise hot-spots, and modularity lets a single watch adapt to very different contexts.
<h3>Positioning, prices, channels and buyer profiles</h3>
O&amp;W sits in a &ldquo;quality tool&rdquo; segment: tidy finishing without ostentation, coherent spec sheets, tight quality control and messaging anchored in use rather than prestige, and the value proposition seeks instrument credibility rather than luxury posturing.
Distribution blends direct online sales with a small partner network and a didactic narrative about heritage and use, and this short channel supports coherent pricing and a clear link to the workshop.&nbsp;The core audience mixes owners who prefer watches to &ldquo;do&rdquo; rather than to &ldquo;show,&rdquo; recreational divers, travellers who prize sturdiness and professionals who need reliable, serviceable objects, and the brand resonates with those who trust proof of wear over glossy claims.
<h3>Selection guide: use case, legibility and ergonomics</h3>
Start by mapping your main environment&mdash;water, cockpit, desk-to-field or timed sport; if water rules, a Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 or Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph is natural, whereas P-101/P-104 suit quick, uncluttered reads, and the Navichron chronograph serves intervals and structured routines.
Next validate legibility: hand-to-dial contrast, index size, minimal clutter, minute track visibility and bezel logic that matches how you actually use it, and run the &ldquo;one-metre/one-glance&rdquo; test in natural light before deciding.
Finally, try the watch to judge stance (lug-to-lug), crown feel in the palm, bracelet suppleness and how it sits with sleeves and tasks, and keep the version you forget the fastest once strapped on.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs remains identifiable by its purpose-built vocation: watches made for use&mdash;readable, robust and supported by a clear Swiss chain. Between divers that channel the Caribbean legacy, modern pilot pieces and work-ready chronographs, the range is organised simply around real-world scenarios. To choose well, start with where you&rsquo;ll wear it, test clarity and comfort, then tune material and strap; you&rsquo;ll land on a capable instrument that ages well. To square these cues with long-term ownership feedback, a helpful compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated August 2025)

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