The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

The Lip T18 Churchill is, in my opinion, a true classic, accessible and therefore a must-have if you appreciate the brand's history. It's a classy, original, very discreet, and elegant watch. Its main appeal is undoubtedly the dial, which I chose with Roman numerals. The small seconds hand is also very attractive. I have the quartz version, which has the advantage of being thinner than the automatic version. It's a small watch that will suit smaller wrists best (the T24 would be better for larger ones). The value for money is almost unbeatable, which is why I've called it a must-have.

Unavoidable

My first "real" adult watch, the one that sparked my interest in horology.

An elegant watch thanks to its magnificent dial that immediately catches the eye. I find the Presage Cocktail range particularly successful, and this reference ("Mojito") especially so. The green harmonizes perfectly with the gold of the hour markers and hands, as well as the brown leather strap. In my opinion, one of the prettiest dress watches in this price range, if you appreciate green. The small scale-like rosette adds to the charm of the dial, which is even more beautiful in sunlight. The 4R35 caliber is simple and efficient; the transparent case back allows it to be seen, which always makes an impression when you're starting out in watchmaking.

Chic and elegant

A diver's watch I adore, 39mm in diameter (perfect for my wrist), even though it's currently only available in 42mm. The Venezianico artistic touch really adds something special to the watch, which I find remains classic but with an originality that isn't always found (some diver's watches in this price range are simply copies of the Submariner... but not as good). The quality is excellent (the sapphire crystal is virtually scratchproof), I've dived with it many times, and it goes everywhere with me on my travels. The NH35A movement isn't exceptional, but it's perfectly adequate. It can be worn with both formal and casual outfits; the black dial goes with everything.

A classic yet original diver's watch.

The French watch brand LIP is an emblematic figure of the watch industry, recognized for his innovation, his avant-garde design and his history rich in twists and turns. Founded in 1867 in Besan&ccedil;on, LIP has gone through periods of glory, economic challenges and social struggles, while leaving an indelible mark in the history of French watchmaking.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: Foundation and Expansion (1867-1930)</h2>
The history of LIP begins in 1867 when Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besan&ccedil;on, the French capital of watchmaking. Initially named "Comptoir Lipmann", the workshop specializes in the manufacture of high quality pocket watches. In 1893, the company became the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; Anonyme d'Horlogerie Lipmann Fr&egrave;res" and adopted the brand LIP, acronym of the founder's initials.
At the beginning of the 20th century, LIP stood out for its technical and aesthetic innovations. In 1904, the brand introduced the "Lip" pocket chronometer, which met with notable success. LIP is quickly positioning itself as a major player in French watchmaking, combining precision and elegance in its creations.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Age of Innovation: The 1930s-1950s</h2>
Under the direction of Fred Lip, son of Ernest Lipmann, LIP enters a period of intense innovation. In 1933, the brand launched the model <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/t18">Lip T18</a>, a rectangular wristwatch equipped with a high-precision movement. This model became emblematic and was offered in 1948 to Winston Churchill in recognition of his role during the Second World War.
In the 1950s, LIP continued to innovate by introducing&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/electronic">Lip Electronic</a> in 1952, the first French electronic watch. This model uses a quartz crystal to keep time, constituting a significant advancement in watchmaking technology. Lip offered at this time the first models&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/himalaya">Lip Himalaya</a> which still remain in the catalog today.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1960s: Expansion and Avant-Garde Design</h2>
The 1960s marked a period of expansion for LIP like the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/nautic-ski">Lip Nautic-Ski</a> presented during the Grenoble Olympic Games in 1968. It was also the beginning of collaborations with renowned designers to create watches with innovative designs. In 1967, the brand called on Roger Tallon, famous industrial designer, to design the collection&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/mach_2000">Lip Mach 2000</a>. These watches are distinguished by their futuristic aesthetic and their bold shapes, breaking with traditional watchmaking codes.
At the same time, LIP develops watches intended for specific uses, notably for pilots and divers, thus strengthening its reputation as a manufacturer of technical and reliable watches.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1970s: Crisis and Social Struggles</h2>
Despite its successes, LIP faced financial difficulties at the end of the 1960s, exacerbated by international competition and changes in the watch market. In 1973, the company was placed in liquidation, triggering a series of strikes and factory occupations by workers. This social movement, known as "LIP Conflict", became emblematic of workers' struggles in France and attracted national media attention.
The employees, led by the trade unionist Charles Piaget, took control of production and continued to manufacture and sell watches under the slogan "It's possible: we make, we sell, we get paid!". This experiment in self-management aroused broad popular support and symbolized workers' resistance to factory closures.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1980s-1990s: Relaunch Attempts and Changes in Ownership</h2>
After the liquidation of LIP in 1977, several attempts at revival were undertaken. In 1984, the brand was bought by the "Kipl&eacute;" company, but this initiative failed, leading to another liquidation in 1986. In 1990, the businessman Jean-Claude Sensemat acquired the brand and successfully relaunched production, relying on modern marketing methods and reissuing iconic models. Under his leadership, LIP experienced a renaissance and achieved significant sales.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2000s: Renewal and Modernization</h2>
In 2002, Jean-Claude Sensemat signed a worldwide licensing contract with Jean-Luc Bernerd, who created the Manufacture G&eacute;n&eacute;rale Horlog&egrave;re in Lectoure, in the Gers region, to produce LIP watches. This collaboration makes it possible to modernize the collections while respecting the brand's heritage. LIP continues to offer reissues of historic models, while introducing new creations adapted to contemporary tastes.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2010s: Back to Basics and Sustainable Development</h2>
In 2015, the brand was bought by the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; des Montres Bisontines" (SMB), based in Ch&acirc;tillon-le-Duc, near Besan&ccedil;on, France. This return to geographical sources marks a new stage in the history of LIP, which strengthens its local roots and its commitment to sustainable development. Production is relocated to France, and the brand strives to promote French watchmaking know-how. LIP continues to offer its emblematic collections which have marked its history, seeking to meet the expectations of modern consumers.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the most popular French watch brands</a>, including LIP.
(Updated November 2024)

I'd like to introduce you to the watch I use as a dress watch. It's a T18 which, to my knowledge, was produced between 1945 and 1947 (the "made in France" inscription on the dial only appeared after 1945, and production of the cases with soldered lugs ceased in 1947).

This watch is exceptional; it's in remarkable condition despite its age (80 years old, after all!). The dial and blued hands complement each other perfectly.

It's an old lady, so it needs to be treated with care, as parts for repairs are becoming increasingly rare, according to my watchmaker. It's not waterproof and not the most accurate, but its charm lies elsewhere. It's an iconic model, a symbol of the past (or not!) grandeur of French watchmaking.

Lip T18 from the 1940s

In the history of LIP, the T18 has left its mark in a significant way. Indeed, this model from the 30s/40s, already appreciated for the quality of its caliber, was recognized when a solid gold copy was offered to Winston Churchill in 1948, becoming the "Churchill". It has been reissued since 1988, and is still in the LIP catalog, but with a Quartz (???!!) Ronda (?????????!!!!) movement. If you are looking for one, prefer an original like this one. Perhaps less precise, but more in the spirit of LIP.
(To be completely objective and precise, LIP also reissued the T18 with a gold-plated case and a movement in every way identical to that of the 30s, limited to 180 copies, for around €2,500 (all sold))
I bought mine at least 30 years ago. This is a watch that has always attracted me: as legitimate as a Cartier Tank, but less expensive (less well finished too, but you can't have everything at this price!).
Having lain dormant for about twenty years, it is a little worn, but it will be entitled to a complete overhaul by my watchmaker very soon. It will thus start up again more beautifully for several decades on my wrist.

An icon in its own right

LIP T18 watch, part of the first generation. This model was launched by LIP in the 1930s. 
We find several elements on the dial, first of all the old LIP logo, composed only of the 3 letters.
Also a small second at 6 o'clock and the blued hands. I particularly like the patina caused by the life of the watch.
Small watch that is worn rather with a dressy clothing style (suit shirt).
This small caliber offers in particular great lightness.

LIP T18 Vintage

This is without a doubt the most vintage watch I own, and for good reason: it dates back to the 1940s, that's saying something!
It's no longer a watch; it's a piece of history.

I needed a vintage model in my collection. Already owning a Lip Churchill T26 (an automatic model at the time), I didn't immediately consider Lip, but it ultimately became obvious.

The T26 model was very nice but quite thick, especially because of the automatic movement, and it was becoming difficult to wear for a dress watch.

So I tried to replace it with THE original model, the vintage T18, which isn't easy to find in good condition these days.

I was finally able to acquire it thanks to a private individual who had found one at a flea market in Paris. It's a very well-maintained and serviced model at Cartier, in its original condition, of course, but it tells so much!

It's one of the watches I own that I wear the least regularly, as it's difficult to match due to its very vintage look and its fragility, but I still enjoy bringing it out from time to time when the occasion calls for it.

A true piece of history on the wrist, with a capital H, that perfectly complements any collection.

LIP Churchill T18, French elegance

The desire to treat myself to an elegant mechanical watch is at the origin of this acquisition. I wanted it to be rectangular, with European mechanics, both modern and retro. My patience was rewarded when LIP presented this limited series of 180 pieces. Today, it is the only one in my collection in this style, I wear it on rare occasions, mostly dinners and it is always with undisguised pleasure that I put it on my wrist.
Mechanical, I have to wind it daily and the crown is very thin, which does not make winding easy. This is the only black point noted. It is not solid gold, it is a gold plating and not a pvd or dlc treatment.

Rare and elegant

ZRC est une maison horlog&egrave;re fond&eacute;e en 1904 &agrave; Gen&egrave;ve (Suisse) par Edmond Zuccolo et Joseph Rochet. N&eacute;e dans l&rsquo;univers des cha&icirc;nes de gousset puis des bracelets m&eacute;talliques extensibles, la marque s&rsquo;adresse aujourd&rsquo;hui aux amateurs de plongeuses-outils iconiques, rendue c&eacute;l&egrave;bre par sa Grands Fonds d&eacute;velopp&eacute;e pour la Marine nationale &agrave; partir des ann&eacute;es 1960.
<h3>Couronne &agrave; 6 h, bo&icirc;tier monobloc et esprit Marine nationale</h3>
Con&ccedil;ue pour r&eacute;pondre aux contraintes op&eacute;rationnelles des plongeurs-d&eacute;mineurs fran&ccedil;ais, la Grands Fonds adopte la couronne &agrave; 6 h, un bo&icirc;tier monobloc et des solutions maison comme l&rsquo;ECS (Easy Clean System) et le CPS (Crown Protection System). Dans la pratique, la couronne &agrave; 6 h et le CPS emp&ecirc;chent de porter la montre si la couronne n&rsquo;est pas parfaitement viss&eacute;e, limitant ainsi les risques d&rsquo;erreur avant immersion ; l&rsquo;ECS facilite le rin&ccedil;age pour &eacute;viter la cristallisation du sel sous la lunette.
<h3>Grands Fonds et d&eacute;clinaisons contemporaines</h3>
La collection actuelle d&eacute;cline l&rsquo;ADN historique (lisibilit&eacute;, ergonomie de terrain, silhouette &laquo; outil &raquo;) en plusieurs tailles et niveaux de performance. Quel que soit le mod&egrave;le, l&rsquo;architecture et la signature &agrave; 6 h rendent la lecture imm&eacute;diate et l&rsquo;identit&eacute; instantan&eacute;ment reconnaissable.
<ul>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds MN64 &mdash; Hommage aux sp&eacute;cifications Marine nationale, codes historiques de cadran et de lunette.</li>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage&nbsp;&mdash; Gabarit plus contenu (38 mm) conservant la signature de couronne &agrave; 6 h pour les poignets fins.</li>
<li>ZRC Securicode &mdash; R&eacute;interpr&eacute;tation d&rsquo;un th&egrave;me de la fin des ann&eacute;es 1950/1960, avec &eacute;l&eacute;ments de style historiques.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Positionnement : outil pro, prix et distribution</h3>
La marque revendique un positionnement &laquo; instrument de plong&eacute;e &raquo; au sein de l&rsquo;horlogerie ind&eacute;pendante suisse, avec volumes de production non communiqu&eacute; et diffusion s&eacute;lective (d&eacute;taillants sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s et vente directe). &Agrave; titre indicatif, de nombreuses r&eacute;f&eacute;rences acier se situent autour de 2 500&ndash;3 000 &euro;, tandis que des versions techniques en titane d&eacute;passent 4 000 &euro; ; certaines &eacute;ditions sp&eacute;ciales ou m&eacute;taux nobles s&rsquo;&eacute;tablissent nettement au-del&agrave;. Pr&eacute;sence confirm&eacute;e en France avec des &eacute;taillants comme <a href="https://www.bijouterie-clouzeau.fr/fr/marques/zrc-1904">Clouzeau</a> ou <a href="https://www.berenger.fr/fr/horlogerie-berenger/marques/zrc-1904">Berenger</a>, et sur quelques march&eacute;s Asie/Moyen-Orient via un r&eacute;seau resserr&eacute;.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
ZRC s&rsquo;adresse aux amateurs de montres-outils au style imm&eacute;diatement identifiable, qui privil&eacute;gient la fonctionnalit&eacute;, la lisibilit&eacute; et une signature de design forte. Le choix se fera entre un usage polyvalent quotidien (Grands Fonds 300/38), une filiation historique appuy&eacute;e (MN64, Securicode) ou une approche plus technique et extr&ecirc;me (Grands Fonds 3000 Titanium). Les acheteurs sensibles &agrave; l&rsquo;ergonomie appr&eacute;cieront la couronne &agrave; 6 h et la s&eacute;curit&eacute; du CPS ; les puristes salueront la coh&eacute;rence d&rsquo;ensemble. Pour &eacute;clairer votre d&eacute;cision au-del&agrave; de la fiche technique, fiez-vous&nbsp;aux avis clients Dialicious, utiles pour comprendre confort, lisibilit&eacute; r&eacute;elle et ressenti au port&eacute;.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

ZRC is a watch brand founded in 1904 in Geneva, Switzerland, by Edmond Zuccolo and Joseph Rochet. Born in the field of pocket-watch chains and later expandable metal bracelets, the brand now caters to enthusiasts of iconic tool divers, made famous by its Grands Fonds developed for the French Navy from the 1960s onward.
<h3>6 o&rsquo;clock crown, monobloc case and French Navy spirit</h3>
Engineered to meet the operational demands of French Navy mine-clearance divers, the Grands Fonds features a 6 o&rsquo;clock crown, a monobloc case and in-house solutions such as ECS (Easy Clean System) and CPS (Crown Protection System). In practice, the 6 o&rsquo;clock crown and CPS prevent the watch from being worn unless the crown is fully screwed down, reducing user error prior to immersion; ECS helps flush out salt to prevent crystallization under the bezel.
<h3>Grands Fonds and contemporary variants</h3>
The current collection translates the historical DNA (legibility, field ergonomics, tool-watch silhouette) into multiple sizes and performance levels. Whichever the model, the 6 o&rsquo;clock signature ensures instant readability and an immediately recognisable identity.
<ul>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds MN64 &mdash; Core diver inspired by 1964, 300 m, bold legibility for versatile daily wear.</li>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds Hertiage &mdash; Smaller 38 mm option retaining the 6 o&rsquo;clock crown signature for slimmer wrists.</li>
<li>ZRC Securicode &mdash; Reinterpretation of a late-1950s/1960s theme with historical design elements.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Positioning: pro tool, pricing and distribution</h3>
The brand&rsquo;s stance is that of an independent Swiss &ldquo;diving instrument,&rdquo; with production volumes not disclosed and selective distribution (specialist retailers and direct sales). As a guide, many steel references sit around &euro;2,500&ndash;3,000, while technical titanium pieces exceed &euro;4,000; special editions or precious-metal variants are significantly higher. Presence is established in Europe such as <a href="https://www.soprana.com/zrc-1904/?lang=en">Soprana</a> in Italy or <a href="https://junod-lausanne.ch/fr/collections/zrc">Junod</a> in Switzerland, and selected Asian/Middle-Eastern markets through a tight retail network.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
ZRC speaks to those who value immediately recognisable tool-watch design with functional clarity and a strong signature. Your choice will likely fall between versatile daily wear (Grands Fonds 300/38), an emphatic historical link (MN64, Securicode), or a more technical, extreme approach (Grands Fonds 3000 Titanium). Ergonomics benefit from the 6 o&rsquo;clock crown and CPS safety; purists will appreciate the overall coherence. To refine your decision beyond the spec sheet, rely on Dialicious customer reviews to understand comfort, real-world legibility and on-wrist feel.
(Updated August 2025)

The&nbsp;Lip T18, launched in 1933, is one of the most important rectangular watches in the history of French watchmaking and one of the models that has most durably shaped the image of Lip. Its name comes directly from its mechanical movement: the letter T refers to its tonneau shape and the number 18 to the movement&rsquo;s width of 18 mm rather than to a case dimension. The movement was developed from 1931 by Andr&eacute; Donat at the request of Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Lipmann after the latter returned from a study trip to the United States. The watch adopts the Art Deco language of its period with a rectangular case, two-zone dial, Arabic numerals, slender hands and an off-centre small seconds display at 6 o&rsquo;clock. Lip states that more than 400,000 examples were manufactured between 1933 and 1949, making the T18 one of the most widely produced shaped watches of its era.
Its history is also associated with Winston Churchill, who received a gold-plated T18 from the French government in 1948. The family is now continued through quartz Churchill T18 watches and, since 2024, an ambitious mechanical T18 Original.
<h3>Design &amp; legibility: an immediately recognisable Art Deco identity</h3>
The T18 belongs completely to the watchmaking aesthetic of the 1930s. Its rectangular case is taller than it is wide and naturally follows the shape of the movement it contains, unlike many modern shaped watches that use a small round calibre inside a large rectangular case. The historical dial generally organises information through several surfaces or finishes: a light central section, a darker outer area, clearly printed or applied Arabic numerals and a small seconds counter at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The hands, often slender or Dauphine-shaped depending on period and reissue, reinforce the vertical geometry of the watch. The combination of the rectangular case, two-level Art Deco dial and small seconds at 6 o&rsquo;clock forms the fundamental distinguishing feature of the T18. Contemporary Churchill models reproduce this arrangement with varying degrees of fidelity: Arabic numerals on the most historical interpretations, Roman numerals and sunray dials on certain 2024 releases. The mechanical T18 Original, meanwhile, returns to applied Arabic numerals and a design much more directly inspired by the watch presented to Churchill.
<h3>Case and comfort: from highly compact historical proportions to current reissues</h3>
The historical dimensions of the T18 now appear extremely restrained. A documented period model measures approximately 21.5 mm wide by 31.5 mm long, around 40 mm from the tips of the lugs and 11 mm thick including the crystal. This geometry creates a watch that is very narrow on the wrist but visually longer than a simple equivalent round diameter might suggest. Current quartz Churchill T18 watches maintain a width close to this philosophy at 21.2 mm but reach 38.5 mm in total length, with an 18 mm lug width. The narrow width of the T18 is essential to its elegance and explains why it can suit both a small wrist and a larger male wrist. The 2024 mechanical T18 Original is slightly enlarged again: approximately 23.5 to 24 mm wide, 34.5 mm case length, 41.5 mm lug to lug and 10 mm thick. Quartz Churchill watches use mineral or sapphire crystals depending on reference, while the T18 Original receives domed anti-reflective sapphire. Modern water resistance remains limited to 30 metres, appropriate for a dress watch but insufficient for swimming.
<h3>Movement: from the 1931 shaped calibre to its 2024 mechanical recreation</h3>
The historical T18 movement lies at the centre of the identity of the watch. Andr&eacute; Donat begins development in 1931 at the request of Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Lipmann, creating a shaped architecture directly adapted to the rectangular case. Its reference dimensions are 28.5 mm in length, 18 mm in width and approximately 4.05 mm thick. The off-centre small seconds at 6 o&rsquo;clock follows naturally from this construction. For the T18 Original launched in 2024, Lip does not merely install a generic movement: the company has a manual calibre redeveloped that largely reproduces the dimensions and architecture of the historical T18. The new T18 calibre is the element that radically differentiates the mechanical T18 Original from current quartz Churchill T18 watches. Its components are produced by La Joux-Perret in Switzerland, decorated and bevelled in the Doubs region by Roland Bailly, assembled in Besan&ccedil;on by Humbert-Droz and finally cased, regulated and tested by Lip. It contains 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, provides 40 hours of power reserve and has stated accuracy between -12 and +12 seconds per day. More accessible Churchill T18 watches instead use the Swiss Ronda 1064 quartz movement with small seconds.
<h3>Chronological milestones and main models (1933&ndash;2025)</h3>
(1933) Lip T18 First Art Deco Generation:
The first generation establishes the design and mechanical architecture that will build the reputation of the model for several decades. The Lip T18 reference not communicated uses a compact rectangular case whose representative examples measure around 21.5 mm wide by 31.5 mm long, with approximately 40 mm between the ends of the lugs. Crystal material is mineral or organic depending on documented version and period, water resistance according to modern standards is not communicated and cases exist in different metals and finishes including steel, chromed metal and gold plate. The Art Deco dial combines Arabic numerals, a peripheral minute track and small seconds at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The manual mechanical T18 is a genuine shaped movement developed for Lip from 1931, measuring approximately 28.5 x 18 mm. Production becomes substantial: Lip now states that more than 400,000 T18 watches were manufactured between 1933 and 1949, explaining the relative availability of certain versions on the vintage market.
(1947) Lip T18 Tourbillon &Eacute;douard Belin Experiment:
The history of the T18 also includes a creation considerably more exceptional than the production watches. The Lip T18 Tourbillon reference not communicated was produced in 1947 by watchmaker &Eacute;douard Belin around the T18 architecture. Lip presents it as the first shaped wristwatch to receive a tourbillon. This piece should not be confused with an industrial version or a reference manufactured in significant quantities: it belongs more to the field of horological experimentation and demonstration of expertise. Its historical interest lies precisely in showing that the T18 platform, originally conceived as a compact, reliable and high-volume movement, could also serve as a basis for a much more ambitious complication. Exact case dimensions, water resistance, materials and production characteristics are not communicated in the contemporary public documents used for this page. The existence of this piece nevertheless contributes to explaining the special position of the T18 calibre within Lip&rsquo;s technical history.
(1948) Lip T18 Churchill Gold-Plated French State Gift:
The most historically famous T18 is probably the watch presented to Winston Churchill in 1948. The Lip T18 Churchill reference not communicated is a gold-plated execution given by the French government in gratitude for the role played by Britain during the Second World War. Its dial now serves as the principal aesthetic reference for the contemporary T18 Original: rectangular Art Deco composition, raised Arabic numerals, slender hands and a small seconds display installed at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The historical case retains the highly restrained proportions characteristic of T18 watches from the 1930s and 1940s and naturally houses the original manual mechanical T18 calibre. Lip&rsquo;s current public documentation does not provide a precise commercial reference, water-resistance figure or every case specification for this particular example. Its importance is primarily historical and symbolic: the association with Churchill became so strong that Lip now uses the Churchill name for its entire major family of rectangular watches, including T18, T24, T26, T13 and C18.
(2024) Lip T18 Original Churchill Gold-Plated Mechanical Reissue:
In February 2024, Lip genuinely returns the mechanical T18 to the centre of its range with a reinterpretation of the watch presented to Churchill. The Lip T18 Original 676000 uses a stainless-steel case with a total 10-micron gold coating: an initial 5-micron layer of 18-carat gold followed by a second 5-micron layer of 24-carat gold. It measures approximately 24 mm wide, 34.5 mm in case length, 41.5 mm lug to lug and 10 mm thick. The domed sapphire crystal receives anti-reflective treatment and the screwed transparent caseback reveals the new manual T18 calibre. It operates at 3 Hz, contains 21 jewels, provides 40 hours of power reserve and has stated accuracy of -12/+12 seconds per day. The dial reproduces the Churchill aesthetic with applied Arabic numerals and small seconds at 6 o&rsquo;clock. Its alligator strap is manufactured in Besan&ccedil;on. Water resistance is 30 metres and the first series is limited to 180 individually numbered examples.
(2024) Lip Churchill T18 Silver New Quartz Generation:
In September 2024, Lip simultaneously develops the accessible quartz T18 with new, more classical dials. The Lip Churchill T18 671929 adopts a polished and brushed 316L stainless-steel rectangular case measuring 21.2 mm wide by 38.5 mm long, with an 18 mm lug width. Its silver sunray dial abandons the Arabic numerals characteristic of many earlier Churchill watches in favour of black Roman numerals, while blue hands reinforce its dress-watch inspiration. The small seconds remains present and preserves the historical composition of the model. The crystal is flat mineral glass, the steel caseback is pressed and the crown does not screw down. Water resistance is limited to 30 metres. Swiss quartz calibre Ronda 1064 contains 2 jewels and Lip states accuracy of -10 to +20 seconds per month. A black crocodile-style leather strap completes the watch. This reference clearly demonstrates the two current directions of the T18: high-end mechanical heritage on one side and accessible dress watch on the other.
(2024) Lip Churchill T18 Gold Roman Sunray Dial:
The gold-coloured version transfers the new 2024 dial language into a warmer and dressier presentation. The Lip Churchill T18 671933 has a polished and brushed gold-coloured stainless-steel rectangular case measuring 21.2 x 38.5 mm, still combined with an 18 mm lug width. The silver sunray dial uses Roman numerals and blue hands, a combination deliberately moving the watch away from the Arabic-numeral Art Deco design of historical T18 watches while retaining the narrow case and small seconds at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The crystal is flat mineral glass, the stainless-steel back is pressed and the crown is push-pull. Water resistance remains 30 metres. Quartz calibre Ronda 1064 powers hours, minutes and small seconds, with official stated precision of -10 to +20 seconds per month. A brown crocodile-style strap and gold-coloured buckle reinforce aesthetic coherence. This reference is therefore more a contemporary interpretation of the T18 silhouette than a faithful reproduction of an historical configuration.
(2024) Lip T18 Original Steel Gunmetal Shaped Mechanical Calibre:
At the end of 2024, the success of the gold-plated T18 Original leads Lip to offer two additional mechanical steel limited series. The Lip T18 Original 676001 has a polished and brushed 316L stainless-steel case measuring 23.5 mm wide, 34.5 mm in case length, 41.5 mm lug to lug and 10 mm thick. The crystal is domed anti-reflective sapphire and the screwed transparent back provides a complete view of the mechanics. Its silver dial is vertically and horizontally brushed, with applied Arabic numerals and Dauphine-style hands in a gunmetal tone. The manual T18 calibre reproduces the dimensions of the historical movement: 28.5 x 18 x 4.05 mm. It contains 118 components, 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides 40 hours of autonomy with stated accuracy of &plusmn;12 seconds per day. The brown ostrich strap is made in Besan&ccedil;on. Water resistance is 30 metres and the series is limited to 150 examples.
(2024) Lip T18 Original Steel Rose Gold Mechanical Variation:
The second steel edition shares the complete mechanical construction and case of the 676001 but adopts noticeably warmer styling. The Lip T18 Original 676002 measures 23.5 mm wide by 34.5 mm in case length, 41.5 mm lug to lug and 10 mm thick. The case is 316L stainless steel, the crystal is domed anti-reflective sapphire and the transparent back is secured by screws. Its two-zone silver dial receives applied Arabic numerals and rose-gold-toned hands, with a coordinated small seconds hand at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The mechanical T18 calibre is identical to that of the other T18 Original watches: manual winding, 21 jewels, 3 Hz frequency, 40 hours of power reserve and stated regulation from -12 to +12 seconds per day. Its components come from La Joux-Perret, while decoration, assembly, regulation and testing involve several companies in Besan&ccedil;on and the Doubs region. The camel ostrich strap is also locally produced. This edition is limited to 150 numbered pieces.
<h3>Choosing the right version: vintage, quartz Churchill or mechanical T18 Original</h3>
The first choice concerns period. A T18 from the 1930s or 1940s naturally provides the most direct relationship with the history of the model, but purchase requires careful inspection of dial, hands, crown, case and especially movement condition. Restoration can significantly change collector interest. A vintage T18 is best suited to someone seeking a genuine period piece and willing to accept the constraints of a watch approaching a century in age. In particular, it should never be considered water-resistant without prior expert inspection.
The quartz Churchill T18 is the simplest option to wear. Its 21.2 x 38.5 mm case remains visually very slim, the small seconds preserves the identity of the model and the Ronda 1064 requires very little attention. It is also considerably more affordable than a mechanical T18 Original. The quartz Churchill T18 is the most rational choice for enjoying the design every day without the constraint of winding or significant mechanical servicing. Arabic-numeral dials remain closest to the historical spirit, while the 2024 Roman-numeral versions provide a more classical appearance.
The 2024 T18 Original is aimed at a different audience. Its case remains compact, but the shaped manual calibre, transparent back and mechanical finishing move it much closer to a contemporary collector&rsquo;s piece. Daily winding also becomes part of the experience. The T18 Original is the reference to favour when interest in the movement and Lip&rsquo;s industrial history matters as much as the appearance of the dial. The gold-plated 676000 has the most direct link with Churchill, while the 676001 and 676002 are more restrained and less sensitive to wear of a gold coating.
Size deserves a real wrist test because a rectangular watch should not be judged like a round one. Even 21 or 24 mm of width can appear balanced thanks to a length exceeding 38 or 41 mm and a comparatively broad strap. The T18 nevertheless retains a deliberately discreet presence. The wearer needs to accept a narrow, dressy aesthetic rather than expect the substantial proportions of a contemporary 40 mm watch. This characteristic is precisely one of the elements that makes the T18 so faithful to its period.
Finally, no current T18 is intended for intensive aquatic use. The 30-metre water-resistance rating corresponds to protection against minor splashes and everyday humidity rather than an invitation to swim. Leather further reinforces this orientation. A water-resistance and movement inspection is essential before regularly wearing a vintage T18. With a modern T18, avoiding immersion and prolonged shower exposure will also extend the life of the strap, crystal, seals and case finishing. Other customers&rsquo; opinions are essential.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
The Lip T18 is aimed at enthusiasts attracted by Art Deco, shaped watches and the industrial history of French watchmaking. Its narrow rectangular case, small seconds at 6 o&rsquo;clock and calibre specifically designed for this geometry give it a far stronger identity than a simple shaped dress watch. Historical examples provide the most direct connection with the 1930s and 1940s, while quartz Churchill watches now make it possible to enjoy the design at an accessible price. The 2024 T18 Original occupies a different position by recreating a genuine shaped manual movement using the dimensions of the historical calibre and bringing together a network of expertise around Besan&ccedil;on. The 676000 prioritises the Churchill tribute, while the 676001 and 676002 place greater emphasis on steel and mechanics.
To compare comfort, accuracy, finishing quality and the pleasure of manual winding with actual ownership experiences,&nbsp;Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.
(Updated August 2026)

Maël.P's review on his Lip T18

Unavoidable

Pros & Cons for this watch

Where to buy your Lip?

YOU ARE :

Other reviews published by Maël.P

Seiko
Presage Cocktail

Venezianico
Nereide

Other Lip T18 owners' reviews

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Customize your Lip with our selection of accessories:

Eagle Eye Watches

Iconic Switzerland

Maël.P's review on his Lip T18

Unavoidable

Pros & Cons for this watch

Where to buy your Lip?

YOU ARE :

Other reviews published by Maël.P

SeikoPresage Cocktail

VenezianicoNereide

Other Lip T18 owners' reviews

LipT18

LipT18

LipT18

LipT18

LipT18

Customize your Lip with our selection of accessories:

Eagle Eye Watches

Iconic Switzerland

Seiko
Presage Cocktail

Venezianico
Nereide

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Lip
T18

Lip
T18