Cedric Bellon CB01: what does its owner think?

The Cédric Bellon CB01, launched in 2020, is a Swiss mechanical tool watch designed around an unusual constraint placed at the same level as design, movement or water resistance: reducing the impact of manufacturing from the initial design phase. Developed with Swiss platform and manufacturer Watch Angels, the CB01 is presented by its creators as the first watch produced from 100% recycled, certified and traceable stainless steel within a supply chain specifically conceived according to circular principles. Its deliberately raw aesthetic uses the codes of 1960s and 1970s skin divers: a compact approximately 40 mm case, large dial opening, bidirectional 12-hour bezel, simple crown, sapphire crystal and 200 metres of water resistance.

Two movements sourced from unused stocks are offered from the first generation: a three-hand automatic Soprod P024 and a Dubois Dépraz DD14060 with small seconds at 12 o’clock. The family subsequently evolves with a 39 mm GMT in 2022 and a Grade 5 titanium CB01-14060 from 2024.

Design & legibility: a deliberately raw tool watch

The design of the CB01 attempts to remove anything that does not directly provide a function or improve use. The case is round, the lugs comparatively short, the hands straight and the hour markers simple. The central dial retains a brushed metallic appearance on early stainless-steel watches, while titanium versions can receive a coloured upper layer through physical vapour deposition. Typography is restrained and the logo remains discreet. The deliberate absence of superfluous decoration forms the essential distinguishing feature of the CB01. This approach corresponds to the “naked design” expression used by the brand: the visual traces of material, brushing and machining are not hidden beneath multiple layers of decorative treatment. The result is closer to a durable mechanical tool than a luxury watch seeking to multiply visual finishing effects.

Legibility relies on broad hands, baton hour markers and Super-LumiNova applied to the principal references. On the small-seconds versions, four cardinal markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock immediately structure the dial even though the small-seconds counter itself occupies the upper area. Contrast between the brushed dial and luminous surfaces remains strong enough for sporting use. The small seconds at 12 o’clock gives the CB01-14060 an immediately recognisable identity among tool watches. This position is directly related to the Dubois Dépraz movement architecture and avoids the far more conventional arrangement of small seconds at 6 o’clock. It also creates a slight vertical asymmetry that gives the dial more character without requiring any additional complication.

The bidirectional 12-hour bezel provides a discreet second function. By aligning its reference with the hour hand, the wearer can monitor a second time zone without adding a fourth hand. The system is simpler than a genuine GMT and does not naturally distinguish morning from afternoon, but it is sufficient for occasional monitoring of another time. The 12-hour bezel transforms a very simple three-hand watch into a dual-time watch without making the movement more complex. It also fits the environmental philosophy of the project: providing an additional function through a component already required by the design rather than developing an extra module. The later GMT retains this logic while adding a genuine 24-hour hand.

Case, materials and circular production: recycling, repurposing and local manufacturing

The original CB01 uses a 40 mm case in 316L PuReSteel stainless steel, presented as 100% recycled, certified and traceable. The dial and buckle are manufactured from the same metal. The crystal is sapphire and the back uses a screwed compressor-style construction. Lug width measures 20 mm and generally tapers to 18 mm at the buckle. Water resistance reaches 20 bar, or 200 metres. The 200-metre water-resistance rating gives the CB01 genuine tool-watch coherence despite its highly unusual environmental approach. It is therefore not merely a demonstration of recycled materials: swimming and water activities are compatible with its specifications provided the gaskets are correctly maintained and water resistance is periodically checked.

Surfaces are principally obtained through brushing, sandblasting and mechanical polishing. The designers seek to limit electroplating, paints, inks, varnishes and adhesives when they are not necessary. Early steel CB01 dials therefore retain a relatively raw vertically brushed metallic appearance. Leather straps are locally handmade, naturally tanned, sewn with linen cord and assembled with water-based adhesive. The environmental approach of the CB01 therefore concerns manufacturing processes as much as the origin of its metal. This matters because using a recycled material while multiplying transport, chemical treatment and finishing operations would reduce part of its value. The brand publishes a report for each generation detailing its own sustainability index.

This index should not be interpreted as a universal environmental certification applicable across the complete watch industry. It is a system developed to compare the construction of the project with a scenario representing a comparable Swiss series-produced watch, examining materials, sourcing, manufacturing and reuse. The original CB01 obtains approximately 87% under this methodology, while the titanium generation is stated at 84.44%. The principal interest of the score lies in attempting to make manufacturing choices measurable rather than relying only on a broad sustainability claim. The difference between steel and titanium also shows that a material perceived as modern or lightweight does not automatically achieve a better result: the complete path of components and processes matters.

In 2024, the CB01-14060 Ti replaces recycled steel with Grade 5 Ti-6Al-4V titanium sourced from production leftovers that would otherwise have been discarded. Case, dial and buckle are machined from this repurposed material. Official diameter is generally stated as 40 mm at the bezel, with a case body close to 39 mm, approximately 47 mm in length and thickness around 12 mm depending on configuration. Titanium mainly allows a very significant reduction in mass while retaining 200 metres of water resistance. The 2024 Amsterdam Edition, for example, weighs only 61 grams. This low mass makes the watch especially comfortable over extended wear and compensates for the fairly substantial presence of its bezel and large dial opening.

Movements: unused stocks rather than calibres manufactured specifically

One of the most unusual decisions in the project concerns the movements. Rather than commission newly manufactured batches, Cédric Bellon and Watch Angels search for Swiss mechanical movements that have already been produced but remain unused. The first CB01 Automatic therefore uses the Soprod P024, while the Small Seconds receives a Dubois Dépraz DD14060 built on a Sellita SW300 base. Repurposing movements from dormant stocks extends the circular approach into the mechanics themselves. This strategy limits the need to manufacture new components but creates an obvious constraint: availability depends on the quantities that already exist. Once certain stocks are exhausted, the brand needs to find another solution or discontinue the affected reference.

The Dubois Dépraz DD14060 is particularly interesting. It has 29 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve. It displays hours, minutes and small seconds at 12 o’clock. Its frequency provides regular movement of the small seconds and its architecture gives the dial its unusual character. The 44-hour reserve remains comparatively traditional but is coherent with a repurposed movement chosen primarily for its architecture. The watch may therefore stop when left unworn for an entire weekend. Manual winding makes restarting straightforward and the absence of a date on this version substantially simplifies setting.

The Soprod P024 used by the original CB01 Automatic follows a more conventional three-hand architecture. This version forms the simplest entry into the family and retains the 12-hour bezel for monitoring another time zone. The 2022 GMT moves to an automatic Soprod C125, also sourced from unused stock. It has 25 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides up to 42 hours of reserve. The C125 adds an independent 24-hour GMT hand without abandoning the repurposed-movement approach. It is a so-called Caller GMT architecture: the GMT hand adjusts independently while the principal hour hand remains linked to the movement, making it better suited to monitoring someone abroad than to frequent time-zone changes by a traveller.

Chronological milestones and main models (2020–2025)

(2020) Cédric Bellon CB01 Automatic P024 First Circular Three-Hand Model:

The first accessible version of the collection establishes all the technical and environmental principles that will subsequently define the brand. The Cédric Bellon CB01 Automatic CB01-P024 has a 40 mm case, dial and buckle manufactured from 100% recycled PuReSteel 316L stainless steel, sapphire crystal and a bidirectional 12-hour bezel allowing a second time zone to be monitored. Water resistance reaches 200 metres. The automatic Soprod P024 movement comes from unused stock rather than newly manufactured production. Its vertically brushed dial preserves the raw appearance of the material and the hands and hour markers receive luminous material. Its leather strap is locally produced with natural tanning, linen thread and water-based adhesive. This version represents the simplest expression of the CB01 idea: a repairable mechanical everyday watch whose design attempts to reduce unnecessary operations and materials.

(2020) Cédric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds 14060 Small Seconds at Noon:

The most distinctive mechanical version of the inaugural project is the Cédric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds CB01-14060. It retains the 40 mm recycled-PuReSteel case, brushed metallic dial, sapphire, bidirectional 12-hour bezel and 200 metres of water resistance of the three-hand watch but adopts a Dubois Dépraz DD14060 with small seconds positioned at 12 o’clock. This 29-jewel automatic movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 44 hours of reserve. Its upper counter gives the watch an appearance immediately different from a conventional skin diver and gradually becomes one of the signatures of Cédric Bellon. The movement itself comes from unused stock. This version is initially more expensive than the P024 because of its distinctive mechanics but also becomes the platform around which the later titanium generation is developed.

(2022) Cédric Bellon CB01 GMT NK90 Extension to Four Hands:

The family expands with a genuine GMT function whose production is funded by the Watch Angels community in July 2022. The Cédric Bellon CB01 GMT NK90 slightly reduces the diameter to 39 mm and retains a case, dial and buckle made from recycled PuReSteel. The watch adds a 24-hour flange together with a GMT hand recognisable by its orange arrow tip. The repurposed automatic Soprod C125 has 25 jewels, operates at 4 Hz and provides up to 42 hours of power reserve. Water resistance remains 200 metres and sapphire protects a two-level dial. Certain versions receive official COSC chronometer certification, corresponding to rate performance within the tolerances of the Swiss testing institute. The GMT receives a published sustainability score of 87.59% according to the project methodology and represents a major functional development without abandoning the circular approach of the original CB01.

(2024) Cédric Bellon CB01-14060 Ti Black Transition to Repurposed Titanium:

The second major material development arrives with the Cédric Bellon CB01-14060 Ti Black. Case, dial and buckle are now machined from Grade 5 Ti-6Al-4V titanium sourced from repurposed manufacturing leftovers. The bezel measures approximately 40 mm and the case retains sapphire, a screwed compressor-style caseback, bidirectional 12-hour bezel and 200 metres of water resistance. Overall finishing is sandblasted with polished bevels and the upper dial receives black PVD treatment. The repurposed Dubois Dépraz DD14060 is retained with 29 jewels, 4 Hz frequency, small seconds at 12 o’clock and 44 hours of reserve. Its Alcantara strap is locally handmade and its buckle is also repurposed titanium. The published sustainability score for this construction reaches 84.44% according to the brand’s internal index.

(2024) Cédric Bellon CB01-14060 Ti Blue Titanium and Denim Dial:

Colour allows the same technical platform to take on a more distinctive personality without multiplying unique components. The Cédric Bellon CB01-14060 Ti Blue uses the same repurposed Grade 5 titanium case, approximately 40 mm diameter and 200 metres of water resistance as the Black. Its double-layer dial is also machined from repurposed titanium, but the upper section receives a denim-blue PVD finish. Vertically brushed surfaces change significantly in tone according to the angle of light. The automatic Dubois Dépraz DD14060 retains small seconds at noon, 29 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and 44 hours of reserve. The 12-hour bezel can still monitor another time zone. Its grey or coordinated Alcantara strap reduces mass and reinforces the impression of a lightweight tool watch. Construction and process remain associated with the published 84.44% sustainability score.

(2024) Cédric Bellon CB01-14060 Ti Green Bottle-Green Alternative:

The Cédric Bellon CB01-14060 Ti Green retains the complete mechanical and environmental platform of the new generation but adopts an upper dial with a green PVD treatment. Its case, lower dial and buckle are machined from Grade 5 titanium sourced from recovered manufacturing leftovers. Diameter is approximately 40 mm, lug width 20 mm and water resistance reaches 200 metres. The four cardinal markers and hands are luminous. Small seconds at 12 o’clock are driven by the repurposed automatic Dubois Dépraz DD14060, with 29 jewels, 4 Hz frequency and a 44-hour reserve. The bidirectional 12-hour bezel retains the ability to monitor another time zone. This version demonstrates that the brand accepts limited use of colour treatment when it creates meaningful differentiation without changing the complete construction of the watch.

(2024) Cédric Bellon CB01 Titanium Amsterdam Edition Natural Titanium:

Developed with Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers and available from 26 November 2024, the Cédric Bellon CB01 Titanium Amsterdam Edition ACECB01SS is limited to 20 pieces. It retains the approximately 40 mm case, 200 metres of water resistance, sapphire and bidirectional 12-hour bezel but eliminates the coloured PVD dial used by the regular titanium versions. Its double-layer dial therefore remains in the natural tone of titanium and receives vertical brushing; three small engraved “X” marks refer to Amsterdam. Case, dial and buckle are manufactured from repurposed Grade 5 titanium and the watch weighs only 61 grams. The repurposed automatic Dubois Dépraz DD14060 provides 44 hours of reserve and small seconds at 12 o’clock. This edition is the interpretation most directly faithful to the “raw and naked” concept of the CB01.

Choosing the right version: three hands, small seconds, GMT or titanium

The first question concerns the desired function. The original CB01 Automatic is the simplest, although availability now mainly concerns the pre-owned market. The Small Seconds has greater personality through its counter at noon, while the GMT adds a genuinely useful function for monitoring another time zone. The small-seconds version is the strongest choice when the aesthetic identity of the CB01 matters more than complication. The GMT is more logical for someone who regularly works internationally or wants additional information without abandoning the tool-watch approach.

Choosing between recycled steel and repurposed titanium substantially changes the feel. The original steel has greater density and its raw dial creates an industrial character especially coherent with the launch project. Titanium is significantly lighter, naturally darker and extremely comfortable for prolonged wear. The titanium generation is preferable when low weight is an important everyday criterion. It is nevertheless more expensive and its published sustainability score is not higher than that of the first steel generation, a useful reminder that a more technical material does not necessarily mean lower overall impact.

The 200-metre water-resistance rating allows far broader use than that of many independent watches focused mainly on design. Swimming, travel and outdoor activities are compatible with the construction provided the gaskets are up to date. The bidirectional bezel is not, however, a modern dive bezel secured against accidental rotation. The CB01 is therefore an excellent versatile tool watch but not a strictly certified professional diver. For demanding underwater use, a unidirectional bezel and specific diving certification remain preferable.

Movements sourced from unused stocks form an important part of the concept but require some consideration regarding long-term servicing. Soprod, Sellita and Dubois Dépraz are established Swiss industry suppliers, which is reassuring, but certain parts specific to the small-seconds module may be less universal than those of a basic three-hand movement. Service history is therefore especially important when purchasing a pre-owned CB01-14060. Availability of the complete original movement should not be considered unlimited because the project is specifically based on a finite stock of already manufactured calibres.

Finally, the sustainability aspect should be appreciated for what it actually is: a documented design approach measured by the brand rather than the promise of an impact-free watch. Every manufacturing process consumes materials, energy and transport. Cédric Bellon’s proposition is instead to reduce those stages, reuse what already exists and publish a methodology for comparing manufacturing choices. The CB01 is most interesting when this production logic forms part of the purchase criteria alongside design, movement and comfort. For a buyer attracted only by its appearance, a substantial part of the model’s significance would inevitably be lost. Other customers’ opinions are essential.

Conclusion

The Cédric Bellon CB01 is aimed at enthusiasts wanting a mechanical tool watch whose environmental thinking begins before the choice of recycled material and concerns the complete design and manufacturing process. The first 2020 generation combines recycled PuReSteel, movements sourced from unused stocks, local Swiss manufacturing, 200 metres of water resistance and a deliberately raw aesthetic. The Small Seconds is distinguished by its unusual 12 o’clock counter, while the 2022 GMT brings an additional function inside a slightly smaller case. From 2024, repurposed Grade 5 titanium substantially reduces weight and enables new coloured or completely natural interpretations such as the Amsterdam Edition. Power reserves of 42 to 44 hours remain modest, but straightforward mechanics, strong water resistance and restrained dimensions make the family especially usable on a daily basis. To compare comfort, accuracy, ageing of the raw surfaces and the real-world value of this circular approach with extended ownership, Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.

(Updated September 2026)