Lip Nautic 3: owner reviews and feedback

The Lip Nautic 3, launched in 1969, belongs to the major period of French dive watches developed by Lip at the end of the 1960s. It appears in the wake of the Nautic-Ski but uses a very different architecture: a single crown, an external rotating bezel, a skin-diver-style case and a particularly graphic black dial. Historical reference 42752 is notably recognisable through its broad peripheral orange-and-white markers resembling piano keys, highly visible minute track, date at 3 o’clock and lightning bolt beneath the Lip logo, recalling its electromechanical R184 movement. Originally water-resistant to 200 metres, it fully belongs to the tool-watch category. Lip returns it to the foreground in 2023 with a 39 mm reissue, domed sapphire crystal, unidirectional external bezel and automatic La Joux-Perret G100 calibre providing 68 hours of power reserve. The collection subsequently expands through editions linked to the French Firefighters Federation and Expedition 7th Continent, followed by more accessible VH31 quartz versions.

Design & legibility: the “piano keys” of the Nautic 3

The Nautic 3 has a personality distinct from the Nautic-Ski despite their historical proximity. Its bezel is not positioned beneath the crystal and controlled by a second crown: it is external, notched and designed to measure dive duration directly. Above all, the dial is the most recognisable element. Its perimeter alternates broad luminous segments with highly graphic minute markers, a design that Lip now describes as “piano keys”. The 6, 9 and 12 numerals use typography strongly associated with the end of the 1960s and early 1970s, while the date occupies 3 o’clock. The peripheral “piano-key” minute track combined with orange accents forms the essential distinguishing feature of the Nautic 3. On the historical watch, the lightning bolt beneath Lip and the characteristic seconds-hand counterweight refer to the R184 electric calibre. The 2023 automatic reissue removes some of these details connected with electromechanics, while more recent quartz models deliberately reintroduce the historical lightning symbol. Super-LumiNova naturally replaces the tritium used on vintage watches and now provides considerably more consistent legibility in darkness.

Case, bezel and comfort: from the 38 mm skin diver to the modern 39 mm

The historical Nautic 3 uses a steel skin-diver-style case measuring approximately 37 to 38 mm depending on example and measuring method. Its proportions were therefore remarkably restrained for a dive watch rated to 20 ATM. The modern reissue maintains this philosophy with a diameter of only 39 mm, approximately 13.2 mm thickness on documented automatic versions and a 20 mm lug width. The 316L stainless-steel case combines brushed surfaces with polished bevels, while the period Plexiglas is replaced by domed anti-reflective sapphire. The contemporary 39 mm diameter preserves the compact spirit of the original Nautic 3 while providing considerably more modern construction. The crown screws down on recent diving references and the caseback also screws into place, transparent on G100 automatic models and solid on quartz watches. Water resistance remains 200 metres. The unidirectional external bezel generally uses an aluminium insert to preserve the neo-vintage appearance. A Tropic rubber strap noticeably reduces weight and reinforces the tool-watch character, while a steel bracelet provides greater presence and makes the watch more versatile in an urban environment.

Movement: from the Lip R184 electromechanical calibre to G100 and VH31

The mechanics tell much of the story of the Nautic 3. The original model uses Lip’s R184, an electromechanical movement in which energy is supplied by a battery but regulation and much of the operation remain based on a mechanical architecture. This technology, developed by Lip at a time when electronics were beginning to transform watchmaking, explains the lightning bolt displayed on the historical dial. The 2023 reissue completely changes philosophy with the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 assembled in Besançon by Humbert-Droz. The G100 forms the principal technical development of the modern Nautic 3 through its 68-hour power reserve and 4 Hz frequency. It contains 24 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides manual winding, hacking seconds and date. Lip uses a finish notably including Geneva stripes on the oscillating weight, diamond-cut bevels and blued screws. From 2026, a new branch adopts the Time Module VH31 quartz movement: its seconds hand makes several impulses per second and creates a smoother sweeping impression than conventional quartz, with stated accuracy of ±15 seconds per month.

Chronological milestones and main models (1969–2025)

(1969) Lip Nautic 3 42752 Original Electromechanical Diver:

The first Nautic 3 is one of Lip’s most characteristic dive watches from the transition between the 1960s and 1970s. The Lip Nautic 3 42752 uses a steel skin-diver-style case measuring approximately 37 to 38 mm, an acrylic crystal and an external notched bezel graduated over sixty minutes. Its domed black dial receives broad painted orange luminous markers, a highly graphic peripheral minute scale and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Broad hands and a seconds hand whose design relates to the electric theme immediately reinforce its identity. The Lip R184 movement is electromechanical: a battery provides the energy while much of the regulation remains mechanical. The original water-resistance rating reaches 20 ATM, or 200 metres. A Tropic rubber strap is one of the historically coherent configurations. On an old example, this water resistance should naturally never be considered still available without testing.

(2023) Lip Nautic 3 Black Tropic Automatic Reissue:

The 2023 reissue returns very directly to the black-and-orange design of the historical watch while modernising almost every component. The Lip Nautic 3 671850 has a 39 mm 316L stainless-steel case, approximately 13.2 mm thickness and a 20 mm lug width. Its unidirectional external bezel receives a black aluminium insert and the crystal becomes strongly domed anti-reflective sapphire. The black dial retains the “piano-key”-inspired peripheral minute scale, large 6, 9 and 12 numerals and date at 3 o’clock. Markers and hands use Super-LumiNova. Crown and caseback screw down and water resistance reaches 200 metres. The automatic La Joux-Perret G100 contains 24 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides 68 hours of power reserve. Its black Tropic rubber strap is especially coherent with the aesthetics of the historical reference and also limits wrist weight.

(2023) Lip Nautic 3 Black Steel Sport-Chic Bracelet:

The metal-bracelet variation uses the same technical foundation as the Tropic model but gives the watch considerably more contemporary presence. The Lip Nautic 3 671852 retains the 39 mm steel case, substantial domed sapphire, external aluminium bezel and 200 metres of water resistance. Its black dial repeats the broad peripheral markers, details inspired by the 1969 watch and the date aperture at 3 o’clock. Luminous hands and hour markers allow rapid reading as ambient light decreases. The transparent back reveals the automatic G100 and its finishing, notably the decorated oscillating weight. This calibre operates at 4 Hz, contains 24 jewels and delivers 68 hours of autonomy. The fully brushed steel bracelet ends in a security folding clasp and gives the Nautic 3 greater weight than a Tropic strap. This configuration is especially appropriate for someone wanting to enjoy the historical design without retaining an exclusively diving-oriented aesthetic.

(2023) Lip Nautic 3 Ocean Blue New Interpretation:

The Ocean version transfers the architecture of the reissue into a substantially brighter palette and forms one of the principal alternatives to the black dial. The Lip Nautic 3 Ocean 671858 still measures 39 mm in diameter and approximately 13.2 mm thick, with a 316L stainless-steel case, 20 mm lug width and 200 metres of water resistance. Its ocean-blue dial receives a sunray finish producing considerably more variation than the matte black dial, while a blue aluminium unidirectional bezel completes the composition. Anti-reflective double-domed sapphire preserves the retro profile and the crown screws down. A vulcanised blue Tropic rubber strap is designed to dry rapidly and is particularly appropriate for aquatic activities. Inside, the La Joux-Perret G100 provides 68 hours of power reserve with 24 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This version considerably softens the strongly seventies appearance of the Nautic 3 while maintaining the same diving performance.

(2024) Lip Nautic 3 7th Continent Ocean and Environmental Commitment:

The edition created with Expedition 7th Continent continues Lip’s collaboration around ocean protection. The Lip Nautic 3 7th Continent 670096 has a 39 mm 316L stainless-steel case, screw-down crown, domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal and 200 metres of water resistance. Its ocean-blue dial carries Expedition 7th Continent branding and retains the broad luminous markers characteristic of the collection. The unidirectional external bezel can measure dive time and the steel bracelet uses a safety folding clasp. The automatic G100 is fully assembled in Besançon, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, contains 24 jewels and provides 68 hours of power reserve. The transparent numbered caseback allows the movement to be viewed. Production is limited to 999 pieces. Lip also presents this edition as a “zero plastic” watch in terms of packaging, with a cardboard-and-paper presentation box and profits donated to the association.

(2024) Lip Nautic 3 Rescue Swimmer French Firefighters:

This version is developed as part of Lip’s status as official watchmaker to the French National Firefighters Federation. The Lip Nautic 3 Nageur-Sauveteur 670097 retains the 39 mm 316L stainless-steel case, 20 mm lug width and 200 metres of water resistance of the standard reissue. Its matte black dial carries “Nageur-Sauveteur” wording and receives large strongly luminous markers intended to facilitate immediate reading. The domed sapphire crystal measures approximately 3 mm thick and receives anti-reflective treatment. Crown and caseback screw down; the transparent back is also associated with French Firefighters branding. The La Joux-Perret G100 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour with 24 jewels and 68 hours of autonomy. A brushed steel bracelet with safety folding clasp brings weight to approximately 148 grams. This execution therefore prioritises robustness and physical presence more strongly than a lighter Tropic configuration.

(2024) Lip Nautic 3 Scaphandrier French Firefighters:

The Scaphandrier uses the same platform but chooses a presentation more directly connected with diving equipment. The Lip Nautic 3 Scaphandrier 670098 has a 39 mm 316L stainless-steel case, unidirectional external bezel, domed anti-reflective sapphire and 200 metres of water resistance. Its matte black dial carries “Scaphandrier” wording and uses strongly luminous markers and hands. Orange details directly recall certain colours of the historical Nautic 3 and are extended through an orange vulcanised-rubber Tropic strap. This configuration weighs only around 84 grams, a very noticeable difference from the steel-bracelet Rescue Swimmer version. Crown and caseback screw down and the transparent back allows the automatic G100 to be observed. The movement retains 24 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour and 68 hours of power reserve. The watch is supplied in a specific presentation box connected with the French National Firefighters Federation.

Choosing the right version: vintage, G100 automatic or new quartz generation

A historical Nautic 3 naturally provides the most direct relationship with the original design and Lip’s electromechanical history. The R184 is nevertheless a specialised mechanism requiring a watchmaker familiar with this technology, and certain parts can be considerably more difficult to find than components for a current automatic movement. A vintage Nautic 3 is best suited to a collector willing to accept the constraints of an electromechanical watch more than fifty years old. The old 20 ATM marking should never be treated as a guarantee of present water resistance.

G100 reissues are the best choice when the watch is intended to be genuinely used as an everyday automatic. The 68-hour autonomy allows it to be removed for much of a weekend without necessarily requiring resetting. Sapphire, 200 metres of water resistance and a screw-down crown substantially increase everyday peace of mind. The automatic G100 version represents the best compromise between aesthetic fidelity and contemporary performance. It nevertheless costs considerably more than the new quartz variations and its transparent caseback moves away from the entirely utilitarian character of the original.

Strap choice significantly changes the experience. Tropic rubber reduces weight, conforms easily to the wrist and works extremely well in heat or water. The steel bracelet gives greater density, tolerates daily wear well and makes the watch visually more versatile with urban clothing. The Tropic remains the most coherent strap when the Nautic 3 is genuinely used for aquatic activities. Its standard 20 mm lug width fortunately allows many alternatives without dependence on a proprietary integrated bracelet.

The 39 mm diameter is one of the strongest features of the reissue. It remains close to historical proportions while providing substantial legibility through the open dial and broad peripheral markers. Steel-bracelet versions appear slightly more substantial because of bracelet weight, but the case itself remains comparatively compact. The 39 mm format is particularly appropriate for someone wanting a dive watch with presence without returning to the 42 to 44 mm sizes common among modern tool watches. On a small wrist, a Tropic strap can reduce the sensation of mass even further.

Finally, VH31 quartz models introduced after the chronological period covered by this page provide a particularly interesting option for someone prioritising accuracy, price and simplicity. The relatively smooth sweep of the seconds hand preserves part of the visual experience of a mechanical watch and Lip reintroduces several historical elements, notably the dial lightning bolt. The VH31 is the most rational option for enjoying the Nautic 3 design without the constraints or price of an automatic movement. Whatever the version, a recent water-resistance test remains advisable before diving with a pre-owned watch. Other customers’ opinions are essential.

Conclusion

The Lip Nautic 3 is aimed at enthusiasts seeking a French dive watch with a design clearly different from the Nautic-Ski and sufficiently distinctive not to resemble a simple interpretation of a Swiss model. Its “piano-key” dial, orange accents, external bezel and skin-diver case give it an identity strongly rooted in the transition between the 1960s and 1970s. Historical reference 42752 and its R184 form the collector’s choice, while 39 mm G100 reissues provide sapphire, 200 metres of water resistance and 68 hours of autonomy for genuine everyday use. Ocean, 7th Continent and French Firefighters versions then allow a choice between colour, commitment and a more operational orientation. New quartz variations finally broaden access to the model without abandoning its principal graphic codes.

To compare comfort, accuracy, bezel operation, legibility and build quality with actual owner experience, Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.

(Updated August 2026)