Lip Grande Nautic GIGN: what does its owner think?

The Lip Grande Nautic GIGN, launched in 2018, is an operational version of the Grande Nautic dive watch originally developed from specifications established by operators from the Dijon GIGN branch. It retains the two-crown architecture of the historical Nautic-Ski but enlarges it to 41 mm and adapts it to contemporary requirements for legibility, robustness and discretion. The first series receives a gunmetal-grey finish, anthracite dial, internal dive bezel, domed sapphire crystal, 200 metres of water resistance and an automatic Miyota 821A movement. It is limited to 452 individually numbered pieces. In 2021, Lip continues the collaboration with a new Grande Nautic GIGN, reference 671523, produced in 1,973 pieces and recognisable through its black MR73 treatment, dark Tropic-pattern dial and rubber diving strap.

These watches are not simply Nautic-Ski models carrying a GIGN logo: they helped establish the 41 mm Grande Nautic format as a permanent part of Lip’s contemporary catalogue.

Design and legibility: a darkened Nautic-Ski for operational use

The Grande Nautic GIGN retains the immediately recognisable elements of the Nautic-Ski: two crowns on the right side, a rotating bezel positioned beneath the crystal, a highly open dial and large hands designed to remain instantly legible. Moving to a 41 mm format nevertheless gives this architecture substantially more presence than the 38 mm reissues. GIGN versions principally use dark shades to reduce reflections and integrate more easily with operational equipment. The combination of a dark 41 mm case, internal bezel and strongly luminous indications forms the essential distinguishing feature of the Grande Nautic GIGN. The first 2018 series uses a grey-anthracite dial with red details, while reference 671523 adopts an even more monochromatic appearance with a black MR73 case and textured black dial. GIGN markings remain visible but do not dominate the complete dial.

The internal bezel plays both a functional and aesthetic role. It is controlled through the crown around 2 o’clock and allows a reference marker to be positioned against the minute hand to monitor dive duration. Unlike a conventional external bezel, it is protected by the crystal from direct impacts. On contemporary versions it is bidirectional, requiring greater care than a modern external dive bezel designed to rotate in only one direction. The second crown and internal bezel give the watch its characteristic appearance as a compressor-style diver. Here, this description principally refers to its visual two-crown architecture and internal bezel; it should not automatically be equated with the exact operation of historical EPSA cases, whose pressure-resistance system relied on a specific construction responding to external pressure.

Legibility formed part of the requirements established during development of the first GIGN model. The hands are broad, the markers provide strong contrast and Super-LumiNova supports rapid reading in darkness. On the 2018 version, pale hands stand out sharply against the anthracite background, while red accents add several visual references without making the dial excessively colourful. Reference 671523 moves further towards a stealth appearance by using darker components combined with white luminous surfaces. The strong contrast between the dark background and luminous material is more important to its use than sophisticated decorative finishing. The date aperture at 3 o’clock remains sufficiently discreet not to interfere with time reading. The absence of multiple numerals or additional counters also helps preserve immediately understandable information.

Case, straps and comfort: 41 mm, domed sapphire and 200 metres

The move to 41 mm forms an important difference from the Nautic-Ski reissued in a format closer to the historical model. The Grande Nautic GIGN case is made from stainless steel and has two oversized crowns intended to remain manageable even when dexterity is reduced. The first series receives a gunmetal treatment, whereas reference 671523 adopts a black MR73 finish inspired by the dark appearance of the Manurhin MR 73 revolver associated with GIGN equipment. The 41 mm diameter provides enough dial surface to prioritise legibility without turning the watch into an excessively broad diver. Thickness is around 15 mm depending on version and available measurements, largely because of the strongly domed crystal and internal architecture. This height remains noticeable on the wrist and creates more of a tool-watch impression than that of a slim sports watch.

The crystal is strongly domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment. It reproduces the appearance of the tall crystals used on historical Nautic-Ski watches while offering substantially greater scratch resistance. Its transparent screwed caseback reveals the automatic movement. The construction is stated as water-resistant to 200 metres, or 20 bar, notably through its screwed back and main winding crown. The 200-metre water-resistance rating is a genuinely useful specification rather than simply part of the military styling. The watch can therefore accompany swimming and diving provided its seals are correctly maintained and tested. The internal-bezel crown also needs to remain properly protected against water ingress, making gasket condition particularly important on a pre-owned example several years after manufacture.

The first Grande Nautic GIGN is delivered with two straps suited to very different uses: a perforated Tropic rubber strap for aquatic activity and an anthracite Milanese mesh bracelet for a more urban presentation. The 2021 series principally uses a black Tropic strap whose length and flexibility suit a diving watch. A conventional 20 mm lug width makes generic replacements easy to source. The Tropic strap remains the choice most consistent with the operational brief of the Grande Nautic GIGN. It dries rapidly, tolerates water and reduces total mass compared with a steel bracelet. Milanese mesh significantly changes the appearance and can be interesting for an owner wearing the GIGN more frequently in the city than during sporting activity.

Miyota 821A movement: priority given to simplicity and robustness

Grande Nautic GIGN watches use a Japanese automatic movement from the Miyota 82 family, principally documented as the 821A on GIGN versions. This calibre has 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 3 Hz, and provides around 40 to 42 hours of power reserve. It powers hours, minutes, central seconds and date. The choice of the Miyota 821A prioritises a straightforward, widely available and comparatively easy-to-service mechanism. It does not attempt to turn the Grande Nautic GIGN into a piece of haute horlogerie but provides a movement widely known for robustness and availability. The decision also corresponds to the original request for an automatic mechanical movement avoiding dependence on periodic battery replacement during prolonged use.

The 821A belongs to a long-established architecture that remains widely used. Its 3 Hz frequency is lower than that of many Swiss 4 Hz calibres, giving the seconds hand slightly less fluid visual motion. The official accuracy range of the family is comparatively broad and Lip does not position the watch as a certified chronometer. The Grande Nautic GIGN should therefore be judged more on general reliability than on pursuing daily accuracy within only a few seconds. Regulation by a watchmaker can nevertheless significantly improve the performance of an individual example. A reserve of around forty hours means that a watch removed on Friday evening may have stopped before Monday morning, a conventional limitation of this movement generation.

The transparent caseback allows the calibre to be observed, something comparatively unusual on a military-oriented watch where a solid back could have reinforced the utilitarian character. The movement does not receive particularly elaborate decoration and remains clearly industrial. Transparency nevertheless makes calibre identification easier when buying pre-owned and allows obvious corrosion to be visually detected. The simplicity of the movement is also a long-term advantage for a watch intended to be worn rather than exclusively collected. Components from the Miyota 82 family are widely available and many watchmakers understand its architecture. Correct servicing remains essential, particularly when the watch is regularly used in water, because mechanical maintenance should be accompanied by inspection of every gasket.

Chronological milestones and main models (1967–2025)

(1967) Lip Nautic-Ski Electronic Origin of the Lineage:

The Grande Nautic GIGN descends directly from the dive watch introduced by Lip for its centenary. The Lip Nautic-Ski Electronic 42.554 uses an approximately 36 mm EPSA Super Compressor case with two crowns, an internal rotating bezel and a strongly domed crystal. Stated water resistance at the time reaches 200 metres. Its black dial has large luminous markers, 12, 6 and 9 numerals, a date display and an immediately recognisable visual identity. Its movement is not automatic but electromechanical: the Lip R184 uses a battery to power its system while retaining a mechanical regulating organ. Its case and screwed back are stainless steel and the watch is notably promoted during the 1968 Grenoble Winter Olympics. This reference establishes the elements inherited by modern Grande Nautic watches: two crowns, internal bezel, highly legible dial and serious diving capability.

 

(2017) Lip Nautic-Ski Automatic Modern Return in 38 mm:

Lip brings the Nautic-Ski back to the centre of its contemporary catalogue while retaining a format close to the historical watch but replacing its original electronic technology with a modern automatic movement. The Lip Nautic-Ski Automatic 671504 uses an approximately 38 mm stainless-steel case, domed sapphire, an internal bezel controlled by a second crown and a screwed caseback. Water resistance remains 200 metres. Its dial returns to the Nautic-Ski visual world with large luminous markers and a date window. The Japanese automatic movement from the Miyota family provides around 40 hours of power reserve. Leather, rubber or steel strap and bracelet configurations are offered depending on version. This reissue forms the conceptual basis for the future Grande Nautic: the watch preserves its historical components but demonstrates that a larger diameter can be useful for contemporary use requiring even more immediate legibility.

 

(2018) Lip Grande Nautic GIGN Branch First Operational Series:

The first genuine Grande Nautic GIGN is born from specifications established with operators from the Dijon GIGN branch. The Lip Grande Nautic GIGN Branch 671520 moves to a 41 mm stainless-steel case with gunmetal treatment and retains the two crowns of the Nautic-Ski. Its crystal is double-domed sapphire, the transparent caseback screws down and water resistance reaches 200 metres. The anthracite dial combines strongly luminous markers and hands with several red accents, while the internal bezel monitors dive time. Automatic Miyota 821A has 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 40 hours of reserve. A Tropic strap and anthracite Milanese mesh bracelet are supplied. Production is limited and numbered to 452 pieces, corresponding at the time to the stated total strength of the GIGN branches in metropolitan France and overseas territories.

 

(2020) Lip Grande Nautic-Ski 41 mm Move into the Civil Catalogue:

The success of the larger case used for the GIGN series leads Lip to develop a Grande Nautic for its regular catalogue. The Lip Grande Nautic-Ski 671521 retains a 41 mm 316L stainless-steel case, two crowns, a domed sapphire crystal and an internal rotating bezel. Water resistance remains 200 metres through the screwed caseback and crown. Dial and bezel use blue shades with red accents and broad luminous indications, creating a much more colourful appearance than the 2018 military series. Its automatic movement from the Miyota 82 family operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour with approximately 42 hours of power reserve. The watch is notably offered on a perforated black rubber strap. This civilian variation matters because it demonstrates that the 41 mm format developed around the Grande Nautic no longer remains limited to military collaborations.

 

(2021) Lip Grande Nautic GIGN MR73 Second Numbered Edition:

Lip returns in 2021 with a new edition intended more broadly to pay tribute to the GIGN rather than one individual branch. The Lip Grande Nautic GIGN 671523 uses a 41 mm stainless-steel case treated in a black finish with blue reflections called MR73. Its sapphire crystal is domed and anti-reflective, the caseback is transparent and screwed, both crowns are oversized and water resistance remains fixed at 200 metres. The dark dial receives an anti-reflective Tropic pattern together with white Super-LumiNova hour markers and hands. Automatic Miyota 821A has 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 40 hours of reserve. The watch is supplied on a Tropic diving strap. It is limited and individually numbered to 1,973 pieces, a figure selected by Lip as a reference to the historical creation of the intervention unit.

 

(2023) Lip Grande Nautic-Ocean Return to Maritime Exploration:

Following the military variations, Lip returns the Grande Nautic to a directly maritime context. The Lip Grande Nautic-Ocean 671854 has a 41 mm 316L stainless-steel case, approximately 15 mm thickness, two crowns, anti-reflective domed sapphire and a transparent screwed caseback. Water resistance remains 200 metres. Its sunray blue dial and blue internal bezel move away from the stealth GIGN aesthetic towards a brighter maritime appearance. Automatic Miyota 8215 has 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 42 hours of power reserve. The watch is offered on a Tropic rubber strap. This reference follows Lip’s collaboration with Expédition 7e Continent and demonstrates the technical continuity of the Grande Nautic platform: the same diameter, internal bezel and robust philosophy, but with a story now focused on the oceans rather than a military unit.

 

(2024) Lip Grande Nautic-Ski Titanium Lighter Case Construction:

The titanium version represents one of the most significant material developments of the contemporary Grande Nautic. The Lip Grande Nautic-Ski Titanium 671855 retains a 41 mm diameter, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, two oversized crowns and an internal dive bezel but replaces steel with titanium to reduce mass. The watch weighs approximately 115 grams depending on configuration and remains water-resistant to 200 metres. Its matte black dial uses Super-LumiNova hour markers and hands, while its perforated Tropic strap maintains the sporting orientation of the family. Automatic Miyota 8215 has 21 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, provides hacking seconds on the current version and offers around 42 hours of reserve. This edition is limited to 599 pieces and demonstrates how the architecture developed from the Grande Nautic GIGN can evolve without losing its principal functional characteristics.

 

Choosing the right version: first GIGN, MR73 or civilian Grande Nautic

For collectors primarily interested in the history of the collaboration, the 2018 reference 671520 is the most important. It was directly developed around the requirements of the Dijon GIGN branch and its production of only 452 pieces makes it substantially rarer. The 671520 is the most coherent choice when the historical dimension of the partnership matters more than ease of finding an example. Case condition, individual number and the presence of both original straps deserve particular attention.

The 2021 reference 671523 is easier to identify and represents the Grande Nautic GIGN most commonly encountered today. Its MR73 case, dark dial and Tropic strap create a highly coherent appearance, while the 1,973-piece series remains sufficiently limited to retain some individuality. The 671523 is probably the best compromise for someone wanting to wear a Grande Nautic GIGN regularly. Its broader availability also makes comparing prices and locating a complete example easier.

The 41 mm diameter and thickness close to 15 mm need to be considered. The watch is not excessively wide, but the domed crystal, twin crowns and tall middle case give it genuine physical presence. On a smaller wrist, a flexible Tropic strap helps keep the complete watch centred. Trying it on is advisable when the wearer is accustomed to watches below 39 mm or substantially thinner cases. The crowns also protrude further than a conventional single crown, although their positioning generally prevents serious comfort problems.

The movement should not be chosen for chronometric performance but for simplicity. The Miyota 821A is robust and straightforward to service, but its approximately 40-hour autonomy and comparatively broad factory accuracy range are modest beside recent movements. A proper service and regulation can be more useful than obsessively searching for the individual watch showing the smallest deviation before maintenance. Service history, absence of moisture and correct date operation matter more over the long term.

Finally, 200 metres of water resistance should not make the age of a 2018 or 2021 example irrelevant. Gaskets, crowns and caseback need to be tested before genuine aquatic use. The internal bezel should rotate consistently without being excessively loose and the crowns should screw down correctly. A recent water-resistance test is essential before diving again with a pre-owned Grande Nautic GIGN. For mainly urban use, the presence of original accessories and condition of the dark case treatment will often matter more. Other customers’ opinions are essential.

Conclusion

The Lip Grande Nautic GIGN is aimed at enthusiasts seeking a contemporary French dive watch directly connected with an operational brief and the history of the Nautic-Ski. The first 2018 reference 671520 is most directly associated with operators from the Dijon GIGN branch and remains the rarest at 452 pieces. The 2021 reference 671523 develops this identity through its MR73 finish, Tropic-pattern dial and production of 1,973 watches while retaining 41 mm, 200 metres of water resistance and the Miyota 821A. Civilian Grande Nautic, Ocean and Titanium versions subsequently demonstrate that this format has become a genuine branch of the Lip catalogue. Its appeal therefore rests as much on its history and two-crown design as on its diving capability.

To compare accuracy, comfort, robustness and the way its case treatment ages through extended ownership, Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.

(Updated August 2026)