IWC Portofino Chronograph: owner reviews and feedback

The IWC Portofino Chronograph, introduced in 1988, places the chronograph complication within the intentionally elegant and restrained universe of the Portofino collection created four years earlier. Unlike the Pilot’s Watches or Portugieser Chronograph, it does not immediately project an instrumental purpose: polished round case, slim bezel, clean dial, baton indexes, occasional Roman numerals and comparatively discreet pushers preserve the character of a dress watch. The family nevertheless evolves considerably over the following decades. The original 35 mm model uses an unusually thin hybrid movement, the 2000s bring a genuine 41 mm mechanical chronograph, and reference 3910 in 42 mm becomes the familiar image of the Portofino Chronograph for more than a decade.

Since 2021, IWC has also offered a 39 mm format, available either with calibre 79350 and a closed back or with manufacture calibre 69355 featuring a column wheel and sapphire display back.

Design & legibility: a dress chronograph rather than a dashboard instrument

The Portofino has historically been built around simplicity. When IWC adds a chronograph to the collection, the challenge is therefore to integrate counters, pushers and additional scales without turning the model into a conventional tool watch. Dials retain large areas of open space, slim baton markers, restrained Roman numerals at 6 and 12 depending on generation and sober typography. The main aesthetic achievement of the Portofino Chronograph is making the complication clearly visible without allowing it to dominate the entire dial. Even 42 mm versions with three counters, day and date remain substantially less instrumental than a Pilot’s Watch Chronograph.

The 42 mm generations generally use three registers. Running small seconds is positioned at 9 o’clock, chronograph minutes at 12 and recorded hours at 6. Day and date appear together at 3 o’clock. The arrangement provides substantial information but remains structured through overall symmetry and the relatively fine hands. The 42 mm prioritises functional richness because it can measure periods up to twelve hours while preserving both day and date. This layout better suits someone who genuinely uses the chronograph over longer intervals.

The Portofino Chronograph 39 introduced in 2021 significantly changes this balance. IWC removes the day, date and hour totaliser and retains only two vertically aligned subdials. The counter at 12 displays chronograph minutes while the register at 6 provides continuous small seconds. Central seconds remain dedicated to timing. The reduction to two counters allows the 39 mm model to recover symmetry much closer to that of a classical dress watch. The simplification is also functional because it improves immediate reading and reduces the amount of permanently displayed information.

The principal hands remain slender, using leaf-like or elongated baton forms depending on generation, while the central chronograph hand is long enough to reach the peripheral scale precisely. Applied indexes are often rhodium-plated or gold-plated according to dial and case. The slim hands directly support the elegance of the Portofino but make it less immediately legible than a sporting chronograph equipped with large luminous hands. Nighttime use is clearly not the model’s priority, especially on the most traditional versions with limited luminous material.

Silver-plated dials occupy a central place throughout the family’s history, although IWC also offers black, blue, green and several combinations with red gold. Surface treatments generally remain matte, sunray or subtly silvered rather than highly textured. Colour changes the level of formality more than it changes the fundamental architecture of the dial. A silver watch on black or brown alligator strongly favours dress use, whereas green or blue combined with a steel bracelet gives the chronograph a more contemporary character.

The sapphire crystal on contemporary references is slightly domed and receives anti-reflective treatment on both sides. This curvature subtly recalls vintage acrylic crystals while retaining the scratch resistance of sapphire. The domed crystal adds visual depth without making the very slim Portofino bezel appear heavier. The dial consequently seems to occupy almost all available width, which helps explain why a 39 mm version can maintain substantial presence despite its comparatively compact diameter.

Case, bracelets and comfort: 39 or 42 mm for two very different experiences

The 42 mm case of the 3910 generation measures approximately 13.6 mm thick. Its polished round middle case, narrow bezel and relatively long projecting lugs nevertheless create a different impression from a sporting chronograph of similar diameter. Lug width remains 20 mm on most references. The 42 mm provides a large dial opening and assertive presence, but its relatively long lugs deserve trying on for smaller wrists. It often wears larger than its restrained classical styling might suggest in photographs.

The traditional 39 mm version powered by calibre 79350 measures 12.7 mm thick. Moving from 42 to 39 mm substantially reduces the footprint, especially because the dial also loses the day, date and third counter. The 39 mm format is especially appropriate for someone seeking a Portofino closer to the historical proportions of the collection. It remains comparatively thick for its diameter because an automatic chronograph movement naturally requires more height than a simple Portofino Automatic.

The 39 mm references powered by manufacture calibre 69355 are slightly thicker at approximately 13 mm. They improve water resistance to 5 bar and add a sapphire exhibition back allowing the movement to be observed. Strap width decreases to 18 mm on the IW391502 and IW391503. This generation trades a few tenths of a millimetre of thinness for a more sophisticated movement and an exhibition caseback. It therefore provides a noticeably different ownership experience despite an almost identical diameter and dial arrangement.

Water resistance remains one of the family’s more modest characteristics. Contemporary 42 mm watches and several calibre-79350 39 mm models are rated to 3 bar, whereas calibre-69355 versions reach 5 bar. The crown is not designed for diving and traditional alligator straps reinforce this orientation. The Portofino Chronograph should therefore be treated as an urban chronograph capable of handling normal daily accidents rather than as a genuine aquatic sports watch. Even a 5-bar version is not primarily conceived for regular swimming.

Alligator or calfskin remains the most traditional strap choice. It emphasises the visual thinness of the case and reduces total mass. IWC has nevertheless offered stainless-steel Milanese mesh through the years and, in 2024, a genuine five-link steel bracelet on the manufacture Portofino Chronograph 39. Moving from leather to metal substantially changes the character of the watch by making it more suitable as an everyday chronograph rather than a strictly dress-oriented piece. The five-link bracelet also incorporates a quick-change system that makes switching back to leather straightforward.

The Milanese bracelet used on the larger 42 mm generations deserves particular attention. Its flexible construction follows the wrist effectively and reinforces the Italian atmosphere suggested by the Portofino name, although it adds noticeable weight. Milanese mesh particularly suits someone wanting a more distinctive appearance without losing the flexibility of a highly articulated bracelet. On a pre-owned example, condition, clasp operation and correct correspondence between bracelet and reference should all be checked.

Movements: from hybrid calibre 631 to manufacture chronograph calibre 69355

The first 1988 Portofino Chronograph uses IWC calibre 631, a hybrid movement that is highly unusual by modern standards. Despite a chronograph mechanism comprising 233 components, IWC limits movement thickness to only 3.8 mm. This allows the watch to retain a 35 mm case with proportions very close to those of traditional dress watches. Calibre 631 shows that IWC’s first priority was preserving Portofino thinness rather than creating a mechanically demonstrative chronograph. The original generation therefore occupies a particularly distinctive place in the lineage.

When Portofino receives a mechanical chronograph again in the mid-2000s, IWC relies on a proven automatic architecture. Reference family 3783 notably uses calibre 79320, derived from the widely known ETA/Valjoux 7750 architecture. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and adds day, date and chronograph totalisers. The use of calibre 79320 prioritises robustness, serviceability and reliability rather than mechanical exclusivity. Case diameter increases to approximately 41 mm at the same time.

The 42 mm 3910 generation then extensively uses calibre 75320. This automatic movement operates at 4 Hz, contains 25 jewels and approximately 240 components, with 44 hours of power reserve. It retains running small seconds, day, date and an hours-minutes-seconds chronograph. Calibre 75320 is well matched to the versatile purpose of the 42 mm model, although its 44-hour reserve now appears relatively conventional. During daily wear the figure is entirely adequate; it becomes more noticeable when the watch is left unworn through a weekend.

From 2019, selected 3910 references return to calibre 79320 while preserving almost exactly the same exterior architecture. Functions and autonomy remain similar, making the difference difficult to identify without knowing the reference number. On a pre-owned Portofino Chronograph 42, the movement should therefore never be inferred solely from the dial design. Establishing the exact reference makes it possible to distinguish 75320 and 79320 generations and also simplifies service-history research.

The original Portofino Chronograph 39 of 2021 uses calibre 79350. IWC states 31 jewels, 272 components, a 4 Hz frequency and 44 hours of power reserve. The movement removes day, date and the hour totaliser in order to retain only chronograph minutes and seconds together with permanent small seconds. Calibre 79350 allows the chronograph to be visually reduced to its essentials without giving up automatic winding. The watch nevertheless retains a solid caseback and only 3 bar of water resistance.

Another step arrives with references IW391502 and IW391503, powered by manufacture calibre 69355. This automatic movement belongs to IWC’s 69000 family, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 46 hours of reserve. Its chronograph is controlled by a column wheel and winding is bidirectional through a pawl system. Calibre 69355 represents the mechanically most ambitious proposition within the current Portofino Chronograph 39 range. Its sapphire caseback also allows the mechanism to be viewed directly, unlike the 79350 models.

Chronological milestones and main models (1988–2024)

(1988) IWC Portofino Chronograph First Hybrid Generation:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph 3731 is the first chronograph within the Portofino family. Its case measures only 35 mm, substantial enough in the context of the late 1980s but exceptionally compact beside modern chronographs. Hybrid IWC calibre 631 comprises 233 components while measuring only 3.8 mm thick. This construction allows IWC to preserve a highly elegant profile rather than turn the Portofino into a massive sports instrument. The dial remains extremely classical, using two counters and a presentation much closer to a dress watch than to the company’s professional chronographs. The reference establishes the fundamental principle that will define the entire lineage: adding complication without sacrificing visual simplicity.

 

(2007) IWC Portofino Chronograph Return of the Mechanical Chronograph:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph IW378302 belongs to the 3783 generation marking the return of a genuine mechanical chronograph within the family. Case diameter increases to approximately 41 mm, reflecting both contemporary preferences and the larger dimensions of the automatic movement. Calibre 79320, based on a Valjoux architecture, powers the chronograph, small seconds and calendar indications. Reference IW378302 notably combines a stainless-steel case with a silver-plated dial. Rectangular pushers remain comparatively discreet and the overall aesthetic preserves the dressier character of Portofino. This generation is especially important because it serves as the direct transition towards the 42 mm Portofino Chronograph models that dominate the following decade.

 

(2012) IWC Portofino Chronograph 42 New Reference Proportion:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph IW391009 illustrates the 3910 generation that increases the case to 42 mm. Its stainless-steel case measures 13.6 mm thick and remains water-resistant to 3 bar. The silver-plated dial displays small seconds, chronograph registers, day and date, while a stainless-steel Milanese mesh bracelet reinforces the Italian character of the presentation. Automatic calibre 75320 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, contains 25 jewels and provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve. This architecture becomes for several years the most familiar image of the modern Portofino Chronograph. It prioritises the range of functions and wrist presence rather than the compact proportions of early references.

 

(2021) IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 Return to a Compact Format:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391404 marks an important change within the family by reducing diameter to 39 mm. Its black dial abandons day, date and the hour totaliser in favour of a much cleaner vertically arranged bi-compax display. The steel case measures 12.7 mm thick, uses a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides and remains water-resistant to 3 bar. Automatic calibre 79350 provides 44 hours of reserve, operates at 4 Hz and contains 31 jewels. A dark-brown alligator strap completes the watch. The reference directly responds to demand for easier-wearing chronographs and returns the model to proportions significantly closer to the classical Portofino spirit.

 

(2022) IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 Manufacture Calibre 69355:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391502 develops the compact format without changing its diameter. Its 39 mm steel case reaches approximately 13 mm thick and improves water resistance to 5 bar. The white dial preserves the two-register arrangement and remains without a date, but the principal change appears on the reverse: manufacture calibre 69355 can now be viewed through a sapphire caseback. This column-wheel movement contains 205 components, operates at 4 Hz and provides approximately 46 hours of power reserve. The beige calfskin strap uses a quick-change system. The reference clearly establishes a more sophisticated branch of the Chronograph 39 alongside the calibre-79350 models that remain available in parallel.

 

(2024) IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 Five-Link Steel Bracelet:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 retains manufacture calibre 69355 and the exhibition-caseback construction while introducing a five-link steel bracelet to this generation for the first time. The case remains 39 mm and approximately 13 mm thick with 5 bar of water resistance. A silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated appliques give the watch a highly neutral appearance, while alternating bracelet finishes add greater sporting presence. The quick-change system allows the steel bracelet to be replaced easily with calfskin. This version broadens the daily usability of the Portofino Chronograph 39 by offering a configuration better suited to intensive wear than the models traditionally supplied on alligator.

 

Choosing the right version: 39 or 42 mm, traditional or manufacture calibre

The 42 mm version suits someone wanting to use the chronograph for longer periods while retaining both day and date. Its dial is busier but offers more functions than the 39 mm. The Portofino Chronograph 42 is the more coherent choice when functionality and strong wrist presence take priority over visual restraint. Its long lugs nevertheless make trying it on advisable, particularly on wrists below average size.

The calibre-79350 39 mm better suits someone primarily seeking an elegant and comparatively compact chronograph. Its bi-compax layout and lack of date create extremely strong symmetry. This version prioritises design and simplicity rather than mechanical prestige. Its 3-bar water resistance does, however, require greater care around water during everyday use.

The calibre-69355 IW391502 and IW391503 are more interesting when movement architecture materially influences the decision. The column wheel, sapphire caseback and 5-bar water resistance represent concrete improvements. The 69355 justifies its position when the buyer specifically wants to observe and own a genuine IWC manufacture chronograph calibre. Power reserve nevertheless increases only slightly from 44 to approximately 46 hours.

Bracelet choice substantially alters the experience. Alligator is the most formal and historically consistent with Portofino, Milanese mesh gives the 42 mm watches additional character and the modern five-link bracelet improves the everyday versatility of the 39 mm. Steel is preferable for intensive daily use whereas leather better highlights the dress-watch purpose of the collection. Quick-change systems on newer references fortunately make alternating between the two straightforward.

On a pre-owned Portofino Chronograph, the pushers, hand reset, day and date change on 42 mm models, accuracy and service history all deserve attention. Excessive refinishing can also soften the slender lugs and broad polished surfaces. The mechanical condition of the chronograph should matter more than an artificially perfect absence of micro-scratches. Other customers’ opinions are essential.

Conclusion

The IWC Portofino Chronograph is aimed at enthusiasts wanting a genuine automatic chronograph without giving up the language of a classical and elegant watch. From the compact 35 mm hybrid model of 1988 to today’s 39 and 42 mm versions, the family has consistently sought a balance between complication and restraint. The 42 mm prioritises day, date, timing up to twelve hours and stronger presence, while the 39 mm offers a cleaner dial and easier proportions. Within the latter, calibre-79350 references remain straightforward and proven, whereas calibre-69355 versions add a column wheel, exhibition back and improved water resistance. The principal practical limitations remain comparatively conventional power reserve and modest water resistance beside genuine sporting chronographs.

To compare comfort, accuracy, pusher feel, bracelet quality and the everyday behaviour of the different generations, Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.

(Updated October 2026)