Une librairie de référence reconnue pour son exhaustivité

La Macro Loupe indispensable pour tous les amoureux des montres

Affiches de montres iconiques. Fabriqué en Suisse et garantie à vie

Je ne sais pas par où commencer pour décrire cette merveille que constitue la SBGY007 dite omiwatari. Dotée du Spring Drive mécanique qu’on ne présente plus avec la magie de sa trotteuse qui glisse sans à coup, ce boîtier très élégant et très fin aux finitions de hautes qualités (polissage zaratsu), cette montre est incroyable de confort et beauté du cadran. Le motif reproduit les ondulations que forment l’eau glacée. Selon la lumière et l’angle, le cadran est très joueur et offre des variations qui chatouillent la rétine !

I don't know where to begin to describe this marvel, the SBGY007, also known as the Omiwatari. Equipped with the renowned mechanical Spring Drive movement and the magic of its smoothly gliding seconds hand, this very elegant and slim case boasts high-quality finishes (Zaratsu polishing). This watch offers incredible comfort and a beautiful dial. The pattern replicates the ripples of icy water. Depending on the light and angle, the dial is playful and offers variations that are a feast for the eyes!

Une merveille !

A marvel!

Cette Oris Artelier jumping hour n’est pas très courante et pourtant elle en offre beaucoup. Je la range dans la catégorie Dress avec son beau cadran finement guilloché et soleillé, sa petite seconde qui vient en intersection du cadran des minutes, son guichet des heures à 12h et ses indexes de différente longueur par paires qui habillent avec élégance tels des rayons. Le diamètre et l’épaisseur en font une montre qui passe aisément sous la manche. Elle se veut discrète, sans tape à l’œil avec son bracelet en cuir et sa boucle déployante. Une montre qui me ravit et que je prends plaisir à porter régulièrement. Et lorsque l’heure pile s’approche, j’apprécie de regarder l’heure sautante se mouvoir.

This Oris Artelier jumping hour watch isn't very common, yet it offers a great deal. I would classify it as a dress watch with its beautiful, finely guilloché and sunburst dial, its small seconds subdial that intersects the minute track, its hour window at 12 o'clock, and its pairs of differently sized hour markers that elegantly adorn the dial like rays. Its diameter and thickness make it a watch that easily fits under a sleeve. It's discreet and understated with its leather strap and folding clasp. A watch that delights me and that I enjoy wearing regularly. And when the hour approaches, I appreciate watching the jumping hour in motion.

Jumping Hour

Cette Sixties Fiery Orange en 39mm (sa sœur avec la date panorama est en 42mm) propose un cadran extraordinaire qui selon la lumière se dégrade du jaune au marron. La finesse de la montre pour se modèle automatique est spectaculaire et en fait une de mes dress favorites. J’adore le dessin des chiffres arabes  sur le cadran texturé. Le fond ouvert permet d’observer le calibre décoré. Le tout ne fait aucun bruit, passe aussi bien avec une tenue habillée qu’une tenue plus détendue. On essaie de chercher des choses à redire mais c’est difficile de lui trouver des défauts. C’est fin, précis et remarquablement réalisé.

This 39mm Sixties Fiery Orange (its sibling with the panoramic date is 42mm) features an extraordinary dial that shifts from yellow to brown depending on the light. The watch's slim profile for an automatic model is spectacular, making it one of my dress watches. I love the design of the Arabic numerals on the textured dial. The open case back allows you to admire the decorated movement. It's completely silent and works equally well with formal or casual attire. You try to find fault with it, but it's difficult to find any imperfections. It's refined, precise, and remarkably well-made.

Finesse et exécution remarquables 

Remarkable finesse and execution

Cette Zenith Defy Skyline bleu livrée avec son caoutchouc très qualitatif et son bracelet métallique sur boucles déployantes en impose par son diamètre et la qualité de finition. On a là un jeu des géométries réussi, des index qui captent la lumière avec éclat, des polissages qui brillent bien au soleil et cette seconde folle qui souligne que le El Primero oscille à 36000 alternances par heure. On a au poignet une belle présence qui fait son effet 🤗. Le rotor en étoile est très beau et assoit l’impression générale de qualité de la montre avec aussi une belle sensation au toucher de la couronne. Je n’en fais pas une Daily mais elle pourrait m’accompagner un presque partout avec sa couronne vissée. Je conclue en soulignant qu’elle paraît simple mais elle est pleine de subtilités comme ce cadran qui révèle un scintillement sous un certain angle.

This blue Zenith Defy Skyline, delivered with its high-quality rubber strap and metal bracelet with folding clasps, makes a strong impression with its diameter and the quality of its finish. The interplay of geometries is successful, the hour markers catch the light brilliantly, the polished surfaces gleam in the sunlight, and the running seconds hand highlights the El Primero movement's 36,000 vibrations per hour. It has a striking presence on the wrist that definitely makes an impact. The star-shaped rotor is very attractive and reinforces the overall impression of quality, with the crown also offering a pleasant tactile experience. I wouldn't wear it every day, but with its screw-down crown, it could easily accompany me everywhere. In conclusion, it appears simple, yet it's full of subtle details, like the dial which reveals a shimmering effect from certain angles.

Une seconde folle inutile et donc indispensable

A second crazy, unnecessary, and therefore indispensable

Je ne sais pas par où commencer tellement les variations de reflets du cadrans, la qualité du polissage, le design unique, l’ingéniosité de la conception se mêlent dans une harmonie incroyable ! Cette montre est fantastique et vous en offre beaucoup de détails singuliers à admirer. La texture du cadran renvoie des motifs et des ombres très différentes entre la pleine lumière et l’éclairage indirect. Il faut la voir en vrai pour apprécier toute la magie de cette pièce. 

I don't know where to begin, the variations in the dial's reflections, the quality of the polishing, the unique design, and the ingenuity of the engineering all blend together in incredible harmony! This watch is fantastic and offers so many unique details to admire. The dial's texture creates very different patterns and shadows between full light and indirect lighting. You have to see it in person to fully appreciate the magic of this piece.

L’expression d’un artisanat de très haut niveau

The expression of a very high level of craftsmanship

Cette montre qu’on ne présente plus aux connaisseurs est d’une élégance et d’un confort au porté impressionnants. Dans cette définition tout en or rose, elle fait précieuse mais pas ostentatoire. Sa sobriété permet un usage polyvalent alors que je ne pensais en faire qu’une montre habillée au départ. C’est une montre très facile à porter et qui offre une lisibilité très agréable. Son histoire et son designer réhaussent la satisfaction de posséder un exemplaire et renvoie à l’actualité du renouveau de la marque.

This watch, which needs no introduction to connoisseurs, boasts impressive elegance and comfort. In this all-rose gold version, it exudes preciousness without being ostentatious. Its understated design allows for versatile use, even though I initially only intended it as a dress watch. It's a very easy watch to wear and offers excellent legibility. Its history and designer enhance the satisfaction of owning one and reflect the current resurgence of the brand.

Une vintage à l’élégance folle

A vintage piece with incredible elegance

L'histoire de Grand Seiko est &eacute;troitement li&eacute;e &agrave; celle de&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/seiko">Seiko</a>, la c&eacute;l&egrave;bre marque horlog&egrave;re japonaise. Cependant, Grand Seiko a une identit&eacute; distincte en tant que division haut de gamme de Seiko, se concentrant sur l'excellence horlog&egrave;re, la pr&eacute;cision et l'esth&eacute;tique raffin&eacute;e. Depuis ses d&eacute;buts, Grand Seiko s'est efforc&eacute; de rivaliser avec les meilleures marques horlog&egrave;res suisses, en incarnant le savoir-faire japonais et en d&eacute;veloppant sa propre vision de l'horlogerie de luxe.
<h2 class="p1">Histoire de Grand Seiko</h2>
L'histoire de Grand Seiko remonte &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 1950, lorsque <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/seiko">Seiko</a> a d&eacute;cid&eacute; de cr&eacute;er une ligne de montres haut de gamme pour rivaliser avec les marques suisses de renom. L'objectif &eacute;tait de concevoir et de fabriquer des montres qui r&eacute;pondaient aux normes les plus &eacute;lev&eacute;es de pr&eacute;cision, de durabilit&eacute; et de finition.
En 1960, Grand Seiko a &eacute;t&eacute; officiellement lanc&eacute;, avec l'introduction du mod&egrave;le Grand Seiko "First". Cette montre &eacute;tait &eacute;quip&eacute;e d'un mouvement m&eacute;canique manuel et se distinguait par sa pr&eacute;cision et sa lisibilit&eacute; exceptionnelles. Le cadran arbore un logo distinctif, "GS", qui deviendra embl&eacute;matique de la marque. Les premiers mod&egrave;les Grand Seiko ont &eacute;t&eacute; accueillis avec &eacute;loges, non seulement au Japon, mais &eacute;galement &agrave; l'&eacute;tranger. Les montres &eacute;taient particuli&egrave;rement appr&eacute;ci&eacute;es pour leur pr&eacute;cision in&eacute;gal&eacute;e, leur fiabilit&eacute; et leur esth&eacute;tique &eacute;pur&eacute;e. Grand Seiko a rapidement gagn&eacute; une r&eacute;putation d'excellence horlog&egrave;re, rivalisant avec les marques suisses &eacute;tablies.
Au fil des d&eacute;cennies, Grand Seiko a continu&eacute; d'innover et d'am&eacute;liorer ses montres. La marque a introduit des mouvements &agrave; quartz haute pr&eacute;cision dans les ann&eacute;es 1970, qui &eacute;taient consid&eacute;r&eacute;s comme les plus pr&eacute;cis du monde &agrave; l'&eacute;poque. Cependant, Grand Seiko a toujours maintenu son engagement envers les mouvements m&eacute;caniques, en d&eacute;veloppant des calibres sophistiqu&eacute;s avec des complications telles que les chronographes, les r&eacute;p&eacute;titions minutes et les tourbillons.&nbsp;Dans les ann&eacute;es 1990, Grand Seiko fait face &agrave; des d&eacute;fis en raison de la popularit&eacute; croissante des montres &agrave; quartz et du d&eacute;clin de l'int&eacute;r&ecirc;t pour les montres m&eacute;caniques. Cependant, la marque a continu&eacute; &agrave; produire des montres de haute qualit&eacute; avec une attention m&eacute;ticuleuse aux d&eacute;tails et &agrave; la pr&eacute;cision, consolidant ainsi sa r&eacute;putation d'excellence horlog&egrave;re.
Au tournant du XXIe si&egrave;cle, Grand Seiko a connu une renaissance. La marque a &eacute;t&eacute; r&eacute;introduite sur le march&eacute; international, avec une attention particuli&egrave;re accord&eacute;e aux &Eacute;tats-Unis et &agrave; l'Europe. Les montres Grand Seiko &eacute;taient d&eacute;sormais pr&eacute;sent&eacute;es comme des produits de luxe, avec des designs distinctifs et des finitions haut de gamme.
La ligne Grand Seiko s'est &eacute;galement diversifi&eacute;e avec l'introduction de collections telles que la Grand Seiko Heritage, la Grand Seiko Elegance, la Grand Seiko Sport et la Grand Seiko Nature of Time. Chaque collection offre une diversit&eacute; de styles et de fonctionnalit&eacute;s pour r&eacute;pondre aux go&ucirc;ts et aux besoins des passionn&eacute;s de montres du monde entier.&nbsp;Au cours des derni&egrave;res ann&eacute;es, Grand Seiko a consolid&eacute; sa position en tant que marque horlog&egrave;re de luxe reconnue internationalement. Les montres Grand Seiko sont fabriqu&eacute;es dans la manufacture Shinshu Studio, situ&eacute;e dans les montagnes du Japon, o&ugrave; des ma&icirc;tres artisans s'engagent &agrave; cr&eacute;er des montres d'une qualit&eacute; exceptionnelle. Chaque montre est assembl&eacute;e &agrave; la main et subit des contr&ocirc;les minutieux pour garantir sa pr&eacute;cision et sa fiabilit&eacute;.
La recherche constante de la perfection horlog&egrave;re est une caract&eacute;ristique cl&eacute; de Grand Seiko. La marque a d&eacute;velopp&eacute; des technologies innovantes, telles que le mouvement &agrave; ressort en alliage de Grand Seiko et le polissage Zaratsu, qui conf&egrave;re aux bo&icirc;tiers une finition polie miroir impeccable. Ces avanc&eacute;es t&eacute;moignent de l'engagement de la marque envers l'innovation et la qualit&eacute; sup&eacute;rieure.
Grand Seiko a &eacute;galement &eacute;t&eacute; reconnu pour son design distinctif, alliant &eacute;l&eacute;gance et fonctionnalit&eacute;. Les montres arborent souvent des cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s avec des index et des aiguilles pr&eacute;cis, offrant une lisibilit&eacute; exceptionnelle. Les bo&icirc;tiers sont con&ccedil;us avec des lignes &eacute;quilibr&eacute;es et des finitions hautement polies, ajoutant une touche de sophistication &agrave; chaque mod&egrave;le.
La montre Grand Seiko est devenue un symbole de l'artisanat japonais et de l'excellence horlog&egrave;re. La marque est fi&egrave;re de sa devise "The Nature of Time", qui refl&egrave;te la connexion profonde entre la nature, le temps et la cr&eacute;ation de chaque montre. Cette philosophie se refl&egrave;te dans les cadrans inspir&eacute;s de la nature, tels que le motif du mont Iwate ou les cadrans de la s&eacute;rie "Snowflake", qui rappellent la beaut&eacute; et la puret&eacute; des paysages japonais.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre Grand Seiko ?</h2>
Les prix des Grand Seiko neuves &eacute;voluent r&eacute;guli&egrave;rement et diff&eacute;rents selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre 7,000 &euro; et 9,000 &euro; selon les mod&egrave;les et les finitions. Une Grand Seiko Spring Drive commence &agrave; 5,000 &euro;, alors qu'une Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (limit&eacute;e &agrave; 20 pi&egrave;ces) co&ucirc;te pas moins de 370,000 &euro;. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Grand Seiko moins ch&egrave;re.
<h2 class="p1">Grand Seiko : La discr&eacute;tion de l'horlogerie japonaise de luxe</h2>
En r&eacute;sum&eacute;, l'histoire de Grand Seiko est celle d'une marque horlog&egrave;re japonaise qui s'est affirm&eacute;e comme un acteur majeur dans le monde de l'horlogerie de luxe. Avec son engagement envers l'excellence horlog&egrave;re, sa pr&eacute;cision in&eacute;gal&eacute;e et son esth&eacute;tique raffin&eacute;e, Grand Seiko a su captiver les amateurs de montres du monde entier. Vous pouvez <a href="https://wadokei.me/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">d&eacute;couvrir l&rsquo;horlogerie japonaise avec un autre regard</a> sur le blog Wadokei sp&eacute;cialis&eacute; sur les marques Seiko et Grand Seiko.
Pour choisir le mod&egrave;le Grand Seiko qui vous correspond le mieux, les&nbsp;avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer les diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients. Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_de_luxe">Classement des meilleures marques de montres de Luxe</a> dont Grand Seiko fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Janvier 2024)

The story of Grand Seiko is closely linked to that of <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/seiko">Seiko</a>, the famous Japanese watch brand. However, Grand Seiko has a distinct identity as Seiko's premium division, focusing on watchmaking excellence, precision and refined aesthetics. Since its beginnings, Grand Seiko has strived to compete with the best Swiss watch brands, embodying Japanese know-how and developing its own vision of luxury watchmaking.
<h2 dir="ltr">History of Grand Seiko</h2>
The story of Grand Seiko dates back to the late 1950s, when <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/seiko">Seiko</a> decided to create a line of high-end watches to compete with renowned Swiss brands. The goal was to design and manufacture watches that met the highest standards of precision, durability and finish.
In 1960, Grand Seiko was officially launched, with the introduction of the Grand Seiko "First" model. This watch was equipped with a manual mechanical movement and was distinguished by its exceptional precision and readability. The dial features a distinctive logo, &ldquo;GS&rdquo;, which will become emblematic of the brand. The first Grand Seiko models were received with praise, not only in Japan, but also abroad. The watches were particularly valued for their unparalleled precision, reliability and clean aesthetic. Grand Seiko quickly gained a reputation for watchmaking excellence, rivaling established Swiss brands.
Over the decades, Grand Seiko has continued to innovate and improve its watches. The brand introduced high-precision quartz movements in the 1970s, which were considered the most precise in the world at the time. However, Grand Seiko has always maintained its commitment to mechanical movements, developing sophisticated calibers with complications such as chronographs, minute repeaters and tourbillons.
In the 1990s, Grand Seiko faced challenges due to the growing popularity of quartz watches and the decline of interest in mechanical watches. However, the brand has continued to produce high quality watches with meticulous attention to detail and precision, cementing its reputation for watchmaking excellence.&nbsp;At the turn of the 21st century, Grand Seiko experienced a renaissance. The brand was reintroduced to the international market, with particular attention given to the United States and Europe. Grand Seiko watches were now presented as luxury products, with distinctive designs and high-end finishes.
The Grand Seiko line has also diversified with the introduction of collections such as the Grand Seiko Heritage, Grand Seiko Elegance, Grand Seiko Sport and Grand Seiko Nature of Time. Each collection offers a diversity of styles and features to meet the tastes and needs of watch enthusiasts around the world.
Over the past few years, Grand Seiko has consolidated its position as an internationally recognized luxury watch brand. Grand Seiko watches are made at the Shinshu Studio factory, located in the mountains of Japan, where master craftsmen are committed to creating watches of exceptional quality. Each watch is assembled by hand and undergoes careful checks to guarantee its precision and reliability.
The constant pursuit of watchmaking perfection is a key characteristic of Grand Seiko. The brand has developed innovative technologies, such as Grand Seiko's alloy spring movement and Zaratsu polishing, which gives the cases an impeccable mirror-polished finish. These advances demonstrate the brand's commitment to innovation and superior quality.
Grand Seiko has also been recognized for its distinctive design, combining elegance and functionality. Watches often feature sleek dials with precise indexes and hands, providing exceptional readability. The cases are designed with balanced lines and highly polished finishes, adding a touch of sophistication to each model.
The Grand Seiko watch has become a symbol of Japanese craftsmanship and watchmaking excellence. The brand is proud of its motto "The Nature of Time", which reflects the deep connection between nature, time and the creation of each watch. This philosophy is reflected in dials inspired by nature, such as the Mount Iwate motif or the dials of the "Snowflake" series, which recall the beauty and purity of Japanese landscapes.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Grand Seiko watch cost?</h2>
Prices for new Grand Seikos change regularly and vary depending on the model. Most cost between $7,000 and $9,000 depending on the models and finishes. A Grand Seiko Spring Drive begins at $5,000, while a Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (limited to 20 pieces) costs no less than $370,000. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a less expensive Grand Seiko.
<h2 dir="ltr">Grand Seiko: The discretion of luxury Japanese watchmaking</h2>
In summary, the story of Grand Seiko is that of a Japanese watch brand which has established itself as a major player in the world of luxury watchmaking. With its commitment to watchmaking excellence, unparalleled precision and refined aesthetics, Grand Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts around the world.
To choose the Grand Seiko model that best suits you, the Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience. Check out the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_luxury_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Luxury watch brands</a>, including Grand Seiko.
(Updated January 2024)

Amateur de longue date de Seiko, et ayant eu l'occasion d'apprécier la perfection atteinte par le mouvement Spring Drive, j'attendais que la marque intègre ce mouvement dans un boitier plus discret et moins massif que celui des gammes traditionnelles de Grand Seiko. Mon souhait a été amplement réalisé avec la sortie de la gamme Elegance qui non seulement inaugurait un boitier moins épais, mais également habillé de subtiles courbes qui lui confèrent une esthétique moins anguleuse que les modèles habituels de la marque. En outre, Grand Seiko répondait au souhait de nombreux amateurs de la marque en retirant la réserve de marche et la date du cadran, systématiquement présentes dans les modèles Spring Drive, pour permettre de contempler pleinement le motif qui l'habille. La simplicité et la sobriété au service de l'élégance... et d'une certaine logique, puisque la réserve de marche, d'autant plus pertinente que le mouvement est à remontage manuel, est désormais situé sur la platine du mouvement et visible au moment où l'on remonte la couronne le matin. Le fond de cadran restitue la surface d'un lac gelé, le lac Suwa, dont la glace se fend parfois sur toute la largeur pour constituer le "passage des dieux". J'ai littéralement craqué pour cette Omiwatari, tant l'alliance de ce boitier discret, de ce fond de cadran subtilement coloré et du mouvement serein de la troisième aiguille restitue une classe inégalée que je n'ai retrouvé sur aucune montre que j'ai rencontré auparavant. La qualité de finition est aux standard GS, sans doute au niveau le plus élevé tant le travail sur les aiguilles, sur les index ou sur le lettrage du cadran est remarquable. Le verre saphir bombé, et le jeu de lumière qu'il apporte au cadran achève de me ravir. Pour la petite histoire, j'avais envisagé dans un premier temps l'achat d'une Datejust au cadran bleu cannelé. L'inachèvement de ce projet m'a in fine permis de craquer pour cette GS. Je suis persuadé aujourd'hui que si j'avais obtenu la date just (qui finalement m'a été proposée par l'AD quelques mois plus tard), j'aurais regretté cet achat en découvrant l'Omiwatari qui par bien des points, en offre beaucoup plus qu'une DJ, même sans le quantième...

As a long-time Seiko enthusiast, and having had the opportunity to appreciate the perfection achieved by the Spring Drive movement, I was waiting for the brand to integrate this movement into a more discreet and less massive case than that of the traditional Grand Seiko ranges. My wish was amply fulfilled with the release of the Elegance range, which not only inaugurated a thinner case, but also dressed in subtle curves that give it a less angular aesthetic than the brand's usual models. In addition, Grand Seiko responded to the wish of many fans of the brand by removing the power reserve and date from the dial, systematically present in the Spring Drive models, to allow one to fully contemplate the pattern that adorns it. Simplicity and sobriety in the service of elegance... and a certain logic, since the power reserve, all the more relevant since the movement is hand-wound, is now located on the movement plate and visible when the crown is wound in the morning. The dial background reproduces the surface of a frozen lake, Lake Suwa, whose ice sometimes splits across its entire width to form the "passage of the gods". I literally fell for this Omiwatari, as the combination of this discreet case, this subtly colored dial background and the serene movement of the third hand restores an unequaled class that I have not found on any watch I have encountered before. The quality of the finish is to GS standards, undoubtedly at the highest level as the work on the hands, on the indexes or on the lettering of the dial is remarkable. The domed sapphire crystal, and the play of light that it brings to the dial completes my delight. For the record, I had initially considered buying a Datejust with a fluted blue dial. The incompleteness of this project ultimately allowed me to fall for this GS. I am convinced today that if I had obtained the date just (which was finally offered to me by the AD a few months later), I would have regretted this purchase when I discovered the Omiwatari which in many ways offers much more than a DJ, even without the date...

SBGY007 "Omiwatari", le passage des dieux...

SBGY007 "Omiwatari", the passage of the gods...

En voyage au Japon l’été dernier, je voulais ramener un petit souvenir et en passant dans les quartiers chic de Tokyo et Kyoto, je me suis mis à rêver d’une petite Grand Seiko qui pouvait répondre à mon envie de montre et de souvenirs… Les quartiers chics des grandes villes sont tout simplement incroyables… des Vuitton et des Chanel dans plusieurs quartiers… des boutiques Rolex, A.Lang & S. ou Patek à tous les coins de rue puis cette Patek 6119R qui me trottait un peu dans la tête depuis quelques temps.

A la recherche de ma première Dress Watch, une Calatrava semblait une évidence… mais tout le monde sait la difficulté de s’en procurer car « for exhibition only ». Bref, je me disais que je me laisserais bien tenté par un montre classique, simple, pure.

Je m’intéressais un peu à Grand Seiko pour ses mouvements exemplaires et sa finition sans concurrence. La plus calatravesque était sans doute la SBGW301 mais c’est assez vite vers le cadran hypnotique de la SBGY007, dite Omiwatari, que mon cœur pencha. Outre le cadran bleuté et la forme du boîtier et son poli Zaratsu que je trouve magnifique, le mouvement SpringDrive manuel est une œuvre d’art et de technologie. La réserve de marche au dos du boîtier a fini de me convaincre.

Après l’avoir vue et essayée à Tokyo, l’avoir revue et réessayée à Kyoto, j'ai craqué à notre troisième rencontre qui a eu lieu dans la magnifique boutique d’Osaka. Je la porte tout les jours depuis mon retour et c’est un plaisir quotidien de la remonter et d.admirer son cadran si pur sans date ou reserve de marche…

Le diamètre de 38.5 mm me correspond vraiment bien et je me passe aisément de mes grosses montres (j’ai toujours acheté des montres trop grandes pour moi). L’épaisseur contenue en fait une montre très agréable à porter. Peu étanche et avec un bracelet croco, je la troquerai probablement pour une de mes montres sportives en été… mais ce sera avec regret.

Bref, cette montre est juste sublime et seule une Patek pourra m’en détourner… à moins que la SBGW301 suffise à mon bonheur (elle est sur ma liste… en haut)

Last summer, while traveling in Japan, I wanted to bring back a small souvenir, and while strolling through the upscale neighborhoods of Tokyo and Kyoto, I started dreaming of a small Grand Seiko that could satisfy my desire for a watch and a memento… The chic districts of these big cities are simply incredible… Louis Vuitton and Chanel boutiques in several areas… Rolex, A. Lang & S., and Patek Philippe shops on every corner, and then there was that Patek Philippe 6119R that had been on my mind for a while.

Looking for my first dress watch, a Calatrava seemed like the obvious choice… but everyone knows how difficult it is to acquire one because it's "for exhibition only." In short, I thought I might be tempted by a classic, simple, and pure watch.

I was somewhat interested in Grand Seiko for its exemplary movements and unparalleled finishing. The most stunning was undoubtedly the SBGW301, but it was quite quickly the hypnotic dial of the SBGY007, known as the Omiwatari, that captured my heart. Besides the blue dial and the case shape with its Zaratsu polish, which I find magnificent, the manual Spring Drive movement is a work of art and technology. The power reserve indicator on the case back sealed the deal for me.

After seeing and trying it on in Tokyo, and then seeing and trying it on again in Kyoto, I finally succumbed at our third encounter, which took place in the magnificent Osaka boutique. I've worn it every day since my return, and it's a daily pleasure to wind it and admire its pristine dial, devoid of a date or power reserve indicator.

The 38.5 mm diameter suits me perfectly, and I can easily do without my large watches (I've always bought watches that were too big for me). Its slim profile makes it a very comfortable watch to wear. However, it's not very water-resistant and has a crocodile strap, so I'll probably swap it for one of my sports watches in the summer… but I'll be sorry to do so.

In short, this watch is simply sublime, and only a Patek Philippe could tempt me away from it… unless the SBGW301 is enough to make me happy (it's at the top of my list).

Omiwatari - Traces de Dieu

Omiwatari - Traces of God

Ollech &amp; Wajs est une maison horlog&egrave;re suisse fond&eacute;e en 1956 &agrave; Zurich par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs ; d&rsquo;abord d&eacute;taillant puis acteur de la vente par correspondance, le duo a b&acirc;ti sa r&eacute;putation sur des montres &laquo; tool &raquo; robustes &mdash; plongeuses, militaires, d&rsquo;aviation &mdash; vendues aux particuliers comme aux forces arm&eacute;es, avant d&rsquo;orchestrer un retour au premier plan au cours des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec une gamme contemporaine qui r&eacute;active les signatures historiques.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse et la vente par correspondance&thinsp;: les d&eacute;buts d&rsquo;un label outil</h3>
D&egrave;s l&rsquo;ouverture de leur petite boutique zurichoise, les fondateurs s&rsquo;attachent &agrave; proposer des montres fiables &agrave; prix tenu, puis &eacute;tendent rapidement l&rsquo;activit&eacute; vers le courrier et les annonces sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;es, et cette distribution directe fa&ccedil;on &laquo; mail-order &raquo; deviendra l&rsquo;un des marqueurs durables de la marque.&nbsp;Le basculement d&rsquo;un r&ocirc;le de d&eacute;taillant vers la cr&eacute;ation de montres sous leur propre nom s&rsquo;op&egrave;re en quelques ann&eacute;es, avec des lignes d&eacute;di&eacute;es aux usages concrets (terrain, mer, cockpit) et une construction volontairement simple et r&eacute;parable, et l&rsquo;obsession est moins la &laquo; complication &raquo; que l&rsquo;endurance et la lisibilit&eacute;.
Dans les ann&eacute;es 1960, la diffusion s&rsquo;&eacute;tend aux bases am&eacute;ricaines et aux PX, o&ugrave; des montres militaires et de plong&eacute;e sign&eacute;es O&amp;W trouvent un public pr&ecirc;t &agrave; les &eacute;prouver en conditions r&eacute;elles, et cette validation par l&rsquo;usage contribue &agrave; installer l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;un outil professionnel abordable.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: la profondeur, la d&eacute;compression et l&rsquo;imaginaire des grandes eaux</h3>
Au milieu des sixties, la maison se distingue par des plongeuses d&rsquo;avant-garde dont la Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, pi&egrave;ce record annonc&eacute;e pour 1000 m qui cristallise l&rsquo;ambition technique de l&rsquo;&eacute;poque et installe le nom O&amp;W dans le paysage de la plong&eacute;e sportive comme professionnelle, et l&rsquo;association avec des partenaires sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s nourrit une esth&eacute;tique rationnelle et sans fioritures.
Dans la m&ecirc;me veine, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph introduit une lunette et une logique de lecture con&ccedil;ues pour accompagner la mont&eacute;e du plongeur et les paliers de d&eacute;compression, ancrant la montre dans un usage pr&eacute;cis plut&ocirc;t que dans l&rsquo;&eacute;vocation d&eacute;corative de la mer, et le cadran reste clair pour pr&eacute;server l&rsquo;instantan&eacute;it&eacute; de la lecture sous l&rsquo;eau.
Ces r&eacute;f&eacute;rences historiques, souvent cit&eacute;es et collectionn&eacute;es aujourd&rsquo;hui, ont fa&ccedil;onn&eacute; un langage fait de bo&icirc;tiers costauds, d&rsquo;&eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s s&eacute;rieuses, de bracelets adapt&eacute;s et de typographies contrast&eacute;es qui affleurent encore dans les mod&egrave;les actuels, et c&rsquo;est cette continuit&eacute; de &laquo; montre-outil &raquo; qui permet de relier le pass&eacute; et le pr&eacute;sent.
<h3>Relance contemporaine, ancrage helv&eacute;tique et cha&icirc;ne courte&thinsp;: le retour d&rsquo;O&amp;W</h3>
Apr&egrave;s avoir travers&eacute; la p&eacute;riode quartz et ralenti la cadence, la marque est reprise par Charles Le Menestrel et relanc&eacute;e &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec la volont&eacute; explicite de prolonger l&rsquo;esprit des origines plut&ocirc;t que de s&rsquo;&eacute;parpiller en s&eacute;ries cosm&eacute;tiques, et&nbsp;le bureau de cr&eacute;ation reste &agrave; Zurich tandis que l&rsquo;assemblage et les r&eacute;glages s&rsquo;effectuent dans le Jura suisse.
La d&eacute;marche privil&eacute;gie des mouvements automatiques suisses &eacute;prouv&eacute;s, une architecture de bo&icirc;te simple &agrave; entretenir, des &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s cr&eacute;dibles et des bracelets &agrave; la fois robustes et faciles &agrave; vivre au quotidien, et le cahier des charges reprend la triade historique : fiabilit&eacute;, lisibilit&eacute;, r&eacute;parabilit&eacute;.
La relance ne se contente pas de &laquo; r&eacute;&eacute;ditions &raquo; au millim&egrave;tre : elle propose des montres nouvelles inspir&eacute;es des usages historiques, rehausse le soin apport&eacute; aux finitions et met en avant un contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; par &eacute;tapes, et le r&eacute;sultat vise une modernit&eacute; pragmatique qui &eacute;vite le pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: familles actuelles et usages concrets</h3>
Les premi&egrave;res r&eacute;f&eacute;rences de l&rsquo;&egrave;re r&eacute;cente prennent la forme de montres d&rsquo;aviation &agrave; taille contenue, Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, qui relecturent les codes cockpit dans une bo&icirc;te polyvalente autour de 39&ndash;40 mm avec saphir et couronne viss&eacute;e, et elles ciblent une lecture instrumentale et une r&eacute;sistance suffisante pour le quotidien.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; plong&eacute;e, la maison propose aujourd&rsquo;hui la Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (ainsi que des &eacute;ditions anniversaires) comme incarnation contemporaine de l&rsquo;esprit Caribbean : valves, joints, fonds viss&eacute;s et traitements soign&eacute;s s&rsquo;additionnent pour offrir un instrument de mer moderne, et le cadran conserve l&rsquo;intelligibilit&eacute; qui a fait la r&eacute;putation de la lign&eacute;e.
En parall&egrave;le, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph revient sous une forme actualis&eacute;e, avec sa logique de lecture li&eacute;e &agrave; la d&eacute;compression qui en fait une plongeuse de caract&egrave;re imm&eacute;diatement reconnaissable au poignet, et cette signature d&rsquo;usage distingue le mod&egrave;le dans un segment satur&eacute;.
La famille Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron s&rsquo;adresse &agrave; celles et ceux qui veulent un chronographe &laquo; outil &raquo; lisible, fid&egrave;le &agrave; l&rsquo;esprit O&amp;W sans exc&egrave;s de complexit&eacute;, avec une ergonomie de poussoirs travaill&eacute;e et une &eacute;chelle claire pour structurer le temps court, et le dessin reste volontairement pratique plut&ocirc;t que d&eacute;monstratif.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; pilote contemporain, diam&egrave;tre contenu, saphir, r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau &eacute;lev&eacute;e, cadran tr&egrave;s lisible, usage &laquo; bureau-terrain &raquo;.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; variante d&rsquo;aviation avec autre signature de lunette et de marquages, m&ecirc;me esprit robuste.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; plongeuse moderne inspir&eacute;e de la Caribbean, &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute; pouss&eacute;e et lecture directe.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; plongeuse instrumentale &agrave; logique de d&eacute;compression, identit&eacute; forte au poignet.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; chronographe &laquo; tool &raquo;, cadran a&eacute;r&eacute; et poussoirs francs, lisibilit&eacute; du temps court.</li>
</ul>
Au-del&agrave; des noms, l&rsquo;important est l&rsquo;usage : pilote pour la lisibilit&eacute; &agrave; plat et la r&eacute;sistance aux chocs de la vie active, plongeuse pour l&rsquo;eau et la robustesse, chronographe pour rythmer les t&acirc;ches et les entra&icirc;nements, et ce d&eacute;coupage aide &agrave; choisir une O&amp;W en fonction d&rsquo;un sc&eacute;nario r&eacute;el plut&ocirc;t que d&rsquo;un simple style.
<h3>Signature &laquo; tool watch &raquo;&thinsp;: mat&eacute;riaux, mouvements, dimensions et bracelets</h3>
Les bo&icirc;tiers actuels privil&eacute;gient l&rsquo;acier, des traitements de surface sobres, des lunettes fonctionnelles et des glaces saphir, avec des diam&egrave;tres g&eacute;n&eacute;ralement compris entre 39 et 42 mm pour pr&eacute;server la polyvalence au quotidien, et le port&eacute; se veut stable gr&acirc;ce &agrave; des cornes ma&icirc;tris&eacute;es et des bracelets ajust&eacute;s.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; motorisation, la marque recourt &agrave; des automatiques suisses contemporains adapt&eacute;s &agrave; l&rsquo;usage intensif, certains r&eacute;gl&eacute;s ou certifi&eacute;s selon versions, et l&rsquo;accent est mis sur la facilit&eacute; d&rsquo;entretien par un horloger comp&eacute;tent partout dans le monde, et cette pragmatique m&eacute;canique refl&egrave;te la vocation utilitaire des montres.
Les bracelets &mdash; acier, textile de type RAF/NATO ou caoutchouc &mdash; sont choisis pour leur s&eacute;curit&eacute;, leur r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau et leur confort, tandis que les boucles et end-links sont travaill&eacute;s pour limiter les points durs, et la modularit&eacute; permet d&rsquo;adapter la m&ecirc;me montre &agrave; des contextes tr&egrave;s diff&eacute;rents.
<h3>Positionnement, prix, distribution et profils d&rsquo;acheteurs</h3>
O&amp;W occupe aujourd&rsquo;hui un segment &laquo; outil de qualit&eacute; &raquo; : finitions soign&eacute;es mais sans ostentation, fiches techniques coh&eacute;rentes, contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; serr&eacute; et communication ax&eacute;e sur l&rsquo;usage plut&ocirc;t que sur le prestige, et le rapport contenu/prix vise la cr&eacute;dibilit&eacute; d&rsquo;un instrument plut&ocirc;t que la posture luxueuse.&nbsp;La distribution m&ecirc;le vente directe en ligne et r&eacute;seau restreint de partenaires, comme <a href="https://bit.ly/4igLuis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Horel</a> &agrave; Bordeaux (France) ou <a href="https://bit.ly/4p27od0" target="_blank" rel="noopener">La Vitrine Horlog&egrave;re</a> en Belgique, avec un discours p&eacute;dagogique sur l&rsquo;h&eacute;ritage et les usages, et&nbsp;ce canal court facilite la coh&eacute;rence tarifaire et la relation avec l&rsquo;atelier.
Le public typique r&eacute;unit des amateurs de montres &laquo; &agrave; faire &raquo; plut&ocirc;t qu&rsquo;&laquo; &agrave; montrer &raquo;, des plongeurs loisirs, des voyageurs qui appr&eacute;cient la solidit&eacute; et des utilisateurs professionnels qui veulent un objet fiable et r&eacute;parable, et la marque parle &agrave; celles et ceux qui pr&eacute;f&egrave;rent la preuve par le port&eacute;.
<h3>Guide de choix&thinsp;: sc&eacute;nario d&rsquo;usage, lisibilit&eacute; et ergonomie</h3>
Commencez par d&eacute;finir l&rsquo;environnement principal : eau, cockpit, bureau-terrain ou sport chronom&eacute;tr&eacute; ; si l&rsquo;eau domine, une Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 ou une Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph seront naturelles, tandis que P-101/P-104 conviendront aux lectures rapides et aux cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s, et le chronographe Navichron servira aux temps courts et aux routines fractionn&eacute;es.
Validez ensuite la lisibilit&eacute; : contraste aiguilles/fond, taille des index, absence de surcharge, visibilit&eacute; de la minuterie et coh&eacute;rence de la lunette avec l&rsquo;usage r&eacute;el, et faites le test &laquo; un m&egrave;tre/un coup d&rsquo;&oelig;il &raquo; en lumi&egrave;re naturelle avant d&rsquo;arr&ecirc;ter votre choix.
Enfin, essayez la montre pour jauger l&rsquo;assise (corne-&agrave;-corne), la couronne dans la paume, la souplesse du bracelet et le tomb&eacute; g&eacute;n&eacute;ral avec vos manches et vos activit&eacute;s, et gardez la version que vous oubliez le plus vite une fois port&eacute;e.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs demeure identifiable par sa vocation d&rsquo;outil : des montres pens&eacute;es pour l&rsquo;usage, lisibles, robustes et suivies par une cha&icirc;ne suisse claire. Entre plongeuses h&eacute;riti&egrave;res de la Caribbean, pilotes modernes et chronographes de travail, la gamme s&rsquo;articule simplement autour de sc&eacute;narios r&eacute;els. Pour d&eacute;cider, partez de votre terrain d&rsquo;emploi, testez lisibilit&eacute; et confort, puis ajustez mati&egrave;re et bracelet ; vous obtiendrez un instrument pertinent qui vieillit bien. Pour croiser ces rep&egrave;res avec des retours d&rsquo;exp&eacute;rience, appuyez-vous sur les avis clients Dialicious.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs is a Swiss watch company founded in 1956 in Zurich by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs; initially a retailer and then a mail-order operator, the duo built a reputation on robust tool watches&mdash;divers, military pieces and pilot instruments&mdash;sold to civilians and service members alike, before orchestrating a modern comeback in the late 2010s with a contemporary range that revives the brand&rsquo;s historic signatures.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse and mail order: the beginnings of a tool-driven label</h3>
From their small Zurich storefront, the founders soon moved from selling other brands to shipping their own watches by post, and this direct &ldquo;mail-order&rdquo; route became a lasting hallmark of the company.&nbsp;The shift from retailing to making watches under their own name took only a few years, with dedicated lines for concrete use cases (field, sea, cockpit) and constructions that favoured simple, repairable mechanics, and the focus was less on &ldquo;complication&rdquo; than on endurance and clarity.
In the 1960s, distribution extended to US military PX stores, where O&amp;W military and dive watches were tried in real-world conditions by service members, and this usage-led validation helped cement the image of an affordable professional instrument.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 and Ocean Graph: depth, decompression and the great-waters playbook</h3>
By the mid-sixties the brand stood out with cutting-edge divers, notably the Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, a thousand-metre-rated watch that crystallised the era&rsquo;s technical ambition and lodged the O&amp;W name in both recreational and professional diving, and partnerships with specialist makers fed a rational, no-nonsense aesthetic.
In the same spirit, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph brought a bezel and reading logic tailored to ascent and decompression stops, rooting the watch in a specific task rather than mere maritime d&eacute;cor, and the dial stayed clean to preserve underwater glance legibility.
These historic references&mdash;often cited and collected today&mdash;shaped a language of stout cases, serious water-resistance, practical bracelets and high-contrast typography that still surfaces in current models, and this through-line of &ldquo;tool first&rdquo; connects past to present.
<h3>Contemporary relaunch, Swiss anchoring and a short chain: O&amp;W&rsquo;s return</h3>
After weathering the quartz era and slowing down, the brand was revived in the late 2010s by Charles Le Menestrel with the explicit aim of extending the founding spirit rather than scattering into cosmetic runs, and&nbsp;design remains in Zurich while assembly and adjustment take place in the Swiss Jura.
The approach favours proven Swiss automatic movements, serviceable case architecture, credible water-resistance and bracelets built for comfort and durability, and the specification re-embraces the classic triad: reliability, legibility, serviceability.&nbsp;The comeback is not a millimetre-for-millimetre facsimile exercise; instead, it offers new watches inspired by historic use, upgrades finishing and emphasises stepwise quality control, and the outcome is a pragmatic modernity that avoids pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 and Ocean Graph: today&rsquo;s families and real use</h3>
The first modern releases took the form of compact pilot watches, the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, which reinterpret cockpit codes in versatile 39&ndash;40 mm cases with sapphire and screw-down crowns, and they target instrumental reading and all-day resilience.
On the dive side, the brand offers the Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (along with anniversary editions) as a contemporary take on the Caribbean ethos: seals, casebacks, and careful treatment combine into a modern sea instrument, and the dial retains the intelligibility that made the line&rsquo;s reputation.
In parallel, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph returned in an updated form, with its decompression-centred readout making for an instantly recognisable diver on the wrist, and this task-specific signature sets it apart in a crowded segment.
The Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron family serves those who want a readable, work-ready chronograph true to the O&amp;W spirit, with well-judged pushers and crisp scales for short-time duties, and the design stays deliberately practical rather than showy.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; contemporary pilot, compact diameter, sapphire, strong water-resistance, very legible dial for desk-to-field wear.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; aviation variant with a different bezel and markings signature, same robust intent.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; modern diver inspired by the Caribbean, serious water-proofing and direct readout.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; instrumental diver with decompression logic, strong identity on the wrist.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; &ldquo;tool&rdquo; chronograph, open dial and assertive pushers, clarity in short-time work.</li>
</ul>
Beyond names, what matters is use: a pilot for flat-plane readability and shock tolerance in active life; a diver for water and sturdiness; a chronograph to pace tasks and training, and this split helps pick an O&amp;W by real scenario rather than by style alone.
<h3>Tool-watch signature: materials, movements, dimensions and straps</h3>
Current cases prioritise steel, sober surface treatments, functional bezels and sapphire crystals, with diameters largely between 39 and 42 mm to sustain daily versatility, and on-wrist stability comes from disciplined lug spans and well-matched bracelets.
Mechanically, the brand uses modern, Swiss automatic calibres suited to intensive use&mdash;some adjusted or certified depending on versions&mdash;while ensuring that any competent watchmaker can service them, and this pragmatic mechanics reflects the utilitarian brief.
Bracelets&mdash;steel, RAF/NATO-type textile or rubber&mdash;are chosen for security, water-readiness and comfort, with buckles and end-links designed to minimise hot-spots, and modularity lets a single watch adapt to very different contexts.
<h3>Positioning, prices, channels and buyer profiles</h3>
O&amp;W sits in a &ldquo;quality tool&rdquo; segment: tidy finishing without ostentation, coherent spec sheets, tight quality control and messaging anchored in use rather than prestige, and the value proposition seeks instrument credibility rather than luxury posturing.
Distribution blends direct online sales with a small partner network and a didactic narrative about heritage and use, and this short channel supports coherent pricing and a clear link to the workshop.&nbsp;The core audience mixes owners who prefer watches to &ldquo;do&rdquo; rather than to &ldquo;show,&rdquo; recreational divers, travellers who prize sturdiness and professionals who need reliable, serviceable objects, and the brand resonates with those who trust proof of wear over glossy claims.
<h3>Selection guide: use case, legibility and ergonomics</h3>
Start by mapping your main environment&mdash;water, cockpit, desk-to-field or timed sport; if water rules, a Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 or Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph is natural, whereas P-101/P-104 suit quick, uncluttered reads, and the Navichron chronograph serves intervals and structured routines.
Next validate legibility: hand-to-dial contrast, index size, minimal clutter, minute track visibility and bezel logic that matches how you actually use it, and run the &ldquo;one-metre/one-glance&rdquo; test in natural light before deciding.
Finally, try the watch to judge stance (lug-to-lug), crown feel in the palm, bracelet suppleness and how it sits with sleeves and tasks, and keep the version you forget the fastest once strapped on.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs remains identifiable by its purpose-built vocation: watches made for use&mdash;readable, robust and supported by a clear Swiss chain. Between divers that channel the Caribbean legacy, modern pilot pieces and work-ready chronographs, the range is organised simply around real-world scenarios. To choose well, start with where you&rsquo;ll wear it, test clarity and comfort, then tune material and strap; you&rsquo;ll land on a capable instrument that ages well. To square these cues with long-term ownership feedback, a helpful compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated August 2025)

The&nbsp;Grand Seiko SBGY, introduced in 2019, does not designate one individual model but a family of Grand Seiko references principally characterised by the use of a manually wound Spring Drive movement and a particularly pure approach to the dress watch. The first SBGY002 and SBGY003 references are introduced to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of Spring Drive and inaugurate calibre 9R31, capable of providing 72 hours of power reserve through two mainsprings arranged in parallel.
The family generally retains three central hands, no date aperture and a power-reserve indicator moved to the movement visible through the caseback, leaving the dial completely unobstructed. The SBGY line subsequently expands across both the Elegance Collection and Heritage Collection, using 38.5 or 40 mm cases, dials inspired by snow, Lake Suwa, dawn or the landscapes of Shinshu and different interpretations of the Grand Seiko Style.
<h3>Design &amp; legibility: a dial freed to let the seconds glide</h3>
The SBGY family is first distinguished by a simple but important decision: remove almost every indication from the dial that could interfere with observing the central seconds. There is generally no date, no dial-side power reserve and no additional complication. This construction allows the polished indexes, faceted hands and especially the Spring Drive seconds hand to become the principal visual elements. The perfectly continuous glide of the seconds hand above a deliberately restrained dial forms the most immediately perceptible signature of the SBGY family. Unlike a traditional mechanical movement whose seconds hand advances in small steps dictated by the frequency of its escapement, Spring Drive regulates motion without visible oscillation. The hand therefore seems to cross the dial without interruption, an effect that is especially striking over textured dials whose relief changes continuously with the light.
Grand Seiko uses this architecture as a privileged platform for dials inspired by nature. The SBGY002 evokes wind-swept snow in the Shinshu mountains, the SBGY007 the frozen ridges of Omiwatari on Lake Suwa, the SBGY011 the first dawn light entering the morning mist and the SBGY035 the red tones of an autumn sunrise over the Hotaka mountain range. These stories do not change the function of the watch but give each reference a very different identity. Dial texture therefore becomes the principal way of differentiating models that share the same calibre and often the same proportions. Hands, indexes and the logo are polished sufficiently to catch small points of light and retain good legibility even when the dial uses complex textures or very subtle colours.
Several SBGY watches use minute and seconds hands that are gently curved by hand towards the edge of the dial. This technique brings their tips closer to the peripheral markings and improves visual accuracy when reading the time. The hour markers receive sharply defined facets and polished surfaces alternate with brushed areas in order to remain visible without luminous material. Nighttime visibility is therefore not the priority on most of these dress-oriented models. Legibility depends on the quality of the metallic surfaces and their ability to capture light rather than on the use of Super-LumiNova. This approach is particularly consistent with the philosophy of the family: SBGY watches are designed to offer visual purity and fine detail that rewards close observation rather than the nighttime readability of a tool watch.
<h3>Case, bracelet and comfort: two principal architectures around 38.5 and 40 mm</h3>
A large part of the family uses a specific 38.5 mm case measuring 43.7 mm in length and 10.2 mm thick. This format notably accompanies the SBGY002, SBGY003, SBGY007, SBGY013 and SBGY035. Its profile is strongly curved, the lugs descend rapidly towards the wrist and the dual-curved sapphire crystal visually extends the dial. The 38.5 x 43.7 mm format represents the most traditionally dressy and versatile architecture of the SBGY family. Despite an exhibition caseback and a movement providing three days of autonomy, thickness remains close to 10 mm. The watch therefore slips easily beneath a cuff and its diameter works on a broad variety of wrists. Surfaces generally receive Zaratsu polishing together with extremely precise brushed finishing.
The SBGY009 and SBGY011 follow a different direction through a case inspired by the 1967 44GS. Diameter increases to 40 mm, length to 46.2 mm and thickness to 10.5 mm. The flanks become far more angular and broad polished planes provide stronger wrist presence. This architecture nevertheless maintains a comparatively low centre of gravity thanks to the slim 9R31. The 44GS case gives the relevant SBGY references a more graphic and architectural personality than the rounded Elegance-case models. It also provides a functional advantage on certain references: the SBGY009 and SBGY011 are water-resistant to 10 bar whereas several 38.5 mm Elegance models are limited to splash resistance or 3 bar.
Strap or bracelet choice varies substantially by reference. Early SBGY watches principally use crocodile leather with folding clasps, strengthening their dress-watch positioning. The SBGY013 introduces a nine-row steel bracelet into the Omiwatari architecture, considerably more flexible and visually shimmering than a conventional sports bracelet. The steel bracelet of the SBGY013 significantly changes the perception of this case by giving it much greater everyday versatility. At 116 grams, the watch remains reasonably light but has substantially more physical presence than the leather-strapped SBGY007 at approximately 68 grams. The 19 mm lug width common across the family offers slightly fewer universal strap choices than a 20 mm standard, but dedicated straps suit the thin case proportions particularly well.
<h3>Calibre 9R31: manual Spring Drive, dual springs and 72 hours</h3>
Calibre 9R31 is the most important technical common denominator of the SBGY family. Manufactured at the Shinshu Watch Studio, it uses energy from a mainspring like a mechanical watch but replaces the conventional escapement with the Spring Drive regulating system. Mechanical energy drives the gear train and then a glide wheel that generates the small amount of electricity required by the circuit and quartz oscillator. No battery or external power source is required. Spring Drive therefore combines entirely mechanical mainspring energy with electronic regulation capable of accuracy far beyond that of a conventional mechanical calibre. The result is stated accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month, approximately &plusmn;1 second per day, together with the perfectly continuous motion of the seconds hand that visually defines the technology.
The movement is manually wound through the crown and contains 30 jewels. Its Dual Spring Barrel contains two mainsprings arranged in parallel, allowing approximately 72 hours of reserve without greatly increasing movement thickness. The wearer can therefore fully wind the watch on Friday and still have part of the reserve available on Monday. Three days of autonomy makes manual winding substantially less demanding than on a traditional watch offering only 36 or 40 hours. The calibre also includes hacking seconds, stopping the seconds hand when setting the time. Combined with the high accuracy of Spring Drive, this allows the watch to be synchronised extremely precisely and then retain that synchronisation over long periods.
The 9R31 does have a power-reserve indicator, but it does not appear on the dial. Grand Seiko positions it on the large bridge visible through the transparent caseback. This arrangement is particularly consistent with the SBGY philosophy: the information remains available whenever the owner needs it but never disturbs the symmetry of the front. Moving the power-reserve display to the back preserves all the usefulness of the indication without compromising dial purity. The movement uses a large bridge with linear finishing, blued screws and several polished edges. Its presentation is more industrial than that of Micro Artist Studio calibres such as the 9R02, but it is sufficiently refined to justify the exhibition back and forms an important part of the ownership experience.
<h3>Chronological milestones and main models (2019&ndash;2025)</h3>
(2019) Grand Seiko SBGY002 Yellow-Gold Snowflake:
The Grand Seiko SBGY002 SBGY002 is one of the references that inaugurates calibre 9R31 for the twentieth anniversary of Spring Drive. Its 18-carat yellow-gold case measures 38.5 mm in diameter, 43.7 mm in length and 10.2 mm thick. The crystal is dual-curved sapphire with an internal anti-reflective coating and the transparent screwed caseback reveals the movement. Its white dial uses a texture inspired by wind-blown snow in the Shinshu mountains, explaining its frequent association with the Snowflake aesthetic. A blued-steel seconds hand glides silently above this surface. Calibre 9R31 provides 72 hours of reserve, 30 jewels and accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The watch is supplied on a brown crocodile strap with a yellow-gold clasp. Water resistance is intended for splashes rather than prolonged aquatic use.
(2019) Grand Seiko SBGY003 First Stainless-Steel Edition:
The Grand Seiko SBGY003 SBGY003 retains the architecture of the SBGY002 but replaces yellow gold with stainless steel, making the new movement technology substantially more accessible. Its case still measures 38.5 x 43.7 mm and 10.2 mm thick and uses a dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The white dial is decorated with fine linear detailing and receives a blued seconds hand. Manually wound calibre 9R31 provides approximately 72 hours of reserve through two parallel mainsprings and achieves average accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The power reserve remains visible only from the back. A black crocodile strap completes the watch and water resistance is 3 bar. Production is limited to 700 pieces worldwide and the reference is historically one of the clearest markers of the birth of the modern SBGY family.
(2021) Grand Seiko SBGY007 Ice-Blue Omiwatari:
The Grand Seiko SBGY007 SBGY007 rapidly becomes one of the most recognisable references in the family thanks to its very pale blue dial inspired by the Omiwatari phenomenon observed on Lake Suwa. When the lake freezes, ridges can form across the ice and local tradition associates them with the passage of the gods. Grand Seiko reproduces this appearance through an irregular texture crossed by a blued-steel seconds hand. The stainless-steel case retains a 38.5 mm diameter, 43.7 mm length and 10.2 mm thickness. The sapphire is dual-curved, the strap crocodile and water resistance limited to splashes. Manual calibre 9R31 provides 72 hours of reserve, 30 jewels and &plusmn;15 seconds per month. A weight of approximately 68 grams contributes to the especially light and dressy character of this version.
(2022) Grand Seiko SBGY009 44GS 55th Anniversary Edition:
The Grand Seiko SBGY009 SBGY009 combines the manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 calibre with a contemporary interpretation of the celebrated 44GS case. Produced for the fifty-fifth anniversary of the Grand Seiko Style, it measures 40 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm thick and uses a box-shaped sapphire crystal. The stainless-steel case features broad Zaratsu surfaces, angular flanks and a low centre of gravity. Its deep-blue dial is inspired by moonlight over the mountains of Shinshu and receives a continuously gliding seconds hand that strengthens the feeling of calm. Calibre 9R31 supplies 72 hours of reserve and &plusmn;15 seconds per month. Unlike several SBGY Elegance references, this model is water-resistant to 10 bar. It is fitted with a crocodile strap and limited to 1,500 pieces worldwide.
(2022) Grand Seiko SBGY011 Asaborake 44GS:
The Grand Seiko SBGY011 SBGY011 turns the formula of the SBGY009 into a non-limited model and uses a delicately textured white dial evoking Asaborake, the moment when dawn light progressively penetrates the mist over the mountains of Shinshu. Its stainless-steel case follows the 44GS design at 40 mm in diameter, 46.2 mm in length and 10.5 mm thick. The box-shaped sapphire has an internal anti-reflective coating and water resistance reaches 10 bar. The minute and seconds hands are gently curved by hand towards the peripheral markings. Spring Drive calibre 9R31 offers 72 hours of reserve, 30 jewels and average accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The watch weighs approximately 77 grams on its crocodile strap and is one of the most versatile SBGY models thanks to its higher water resistance.
(2022) Grand Seiko SBGY013 Silver Omiwatari on Steel Bracelet:
The Grand Seiko SBGY013 SBGY013 retains the case of the SBGY007 but changes its personality substantially through a silver dial evoking snow-covered ice on Lake Suwa and, especially, a nine-row steel bracelet. Its case measures 38.5 by 43.7 mm and 10.2 mm thick. The sapphire is dual-curved and the transparent screwed caseback exposes calibre 9R31 together with its power-reserve indication. The blue seconds hand strongly contrasts with the pale dial. The movement retains 72 hours of autonomy and &plusmn;15 seconds per month. Water resistance remains oriented towards splash protection rather than swimming. The nine-row bracelet consists of small rounded links that follow the wrist easily and increase total weight to approximately 116 grams, producing a substantially more solid feel than the leather-strapped SBGY007.
(2024) Grand Seiko SBGY035 Sunrise over Hotaka:
The Grand Seiko SBGY035 SBGY035 celebrates the twentieth anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive calibre family with a red gradient dial inspired by the Hotaka mountain range and autumn leaves illuminated by sunrise. Its darker periphery gradually brightens towards the centre while the texture evokes a rugged mountainside. The stainless-steel case returns to the 38.5 mm and 10.2 mm thick format associated with the Elegance lineage. Its crystal is dual-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating and water resistance is 3 bar. Manual calibre 9R31 retains 30 jewels, 72 hours of reserve and accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The watch is supplied on a reddish-brown crocodile strap with folding clasp and limited to 700 pieces worldwide. Above all, it demonstrates the longevity of the architecture introduced five years earlier.
<h3>Choosing the right version: case, dial, bracelet and use</h3>
To experience the family in one of its most emblematic forms, the SBGY007 remains a particularly coherent choice. Its 38.5 mm format, low weight and Omiwatari dial showcase the glide motion of the seconds hand exceptionally well. Its limited water resistance nevertheless requires greater care in daily life. The SBGY007 particularly suits someone seeking a dress watch focused on dial design and Spring Drive technology. It is less appropriate for someone wanting one watch to wear regardless of circumstances.
The SBGY009 and SBGY011 are more compelling for someone who appreciates the historical codes of the Grand Seiko Style. Their 44GS case is more angular, more reflective and slightly larger while retaining reasonable thickness. Ten-bar water resistance substantially increases versatility. The SBGY011 is probably the strongest choice for wearing an SBGY very regularly without giving up manually wound Spring Drive. Its pale dial remains discreet and its non-limited production also makes it easier to locate.
The SBGY013 is aimed at someone who appreciates the Omiwatari design but prefers a metal bracelet. Its nine rows produce a completely different sensation from crocodile leather and give the watch substantially more presence despite sharing the same case as the SBGY007. They also avoid the practical limitations of an organic strap in warmer weather. The steel bracelet makes the SBGY013 one of the most visually versatile interpretations of the 38.5 mm architecture. Its water resistance nevertheless remains that of a dress watch and should not be confused with that of the SBGY011.
Manual winding should be viewed as part of the pleasure rather than merely as an inconvenience. The 72-hour reserve means the watch does not need winding every day, while the rear-mounted indicator allows remaining autonomy to be checked quickly. The crown provides a mechanical interaction that automatic Spring Drive watches in the SBGA family do not provide in the same way. SBGY watches particularly suit enthusiasts wanting to combine Spring Drive accuracy with the traditional ritual of manual winding. Someone seeking a watch that can be ignored on the wrist for weeks will probably prefer an automatic Spring Drive.
Finally, the pre-owned market requires particular attention to the condition of the polished surfaces. Zaratsu creates extremely sharp planes and edges that aggressive refinishing can alter. The sapphire, exhibition back, hands and dial also deserve close inspection because restoration of these components can be costly. An example retaining sharp case lines and a proper service history is generally preferable to a heavily polished watch made to look new. Winding feel, hacking function and Spring Drive accuracy should also be checked. Other customers&rsquo; opinions are essential.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
The Grand Seiko SBGY is aimed at enthusiasts seeking an especially pure expression of Spring Drive, stripped of automatic winding, date and unnecessary dial-side indications. The family combines the ritual of manual winding with accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month and a continuously gliding seconds hand impossible to reproduce with a conventional mechanical movement. The 38.5 mm models prioritise thinness and elegance, while 44GS-inspired SBGY references add more presence and, on certain models, 100 metres of water resistance. Interpretations of Lake Suwa, snow, dawn and the Shinshu mountains then allow the final choice to be guided principally by the emotional effect of the dial.
To learn more about Japanese watch brands, check out the ranking of the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">most popular Japanese</a><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_japanese_watch_brands"> watch brands</a>.
To compare finishing quality, comfort, accuracy and the pleasure of manual winding with extended real-world ownership,&nbsp;Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.
(Updated September 2026)

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L'avis de Olivier Le Gouj sur sa Grand Seiko SBGY

Une merveille !

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Où acheter votre Grand Seiko ?

VOUS ÊTES :

Autres avis publiés par Olivier Le Gouj

OrisArtelier

Glashütte OriginalSixties

ZenithDefy Skyline

MinaseUruga

Universal GenèvePolerouter Date

Personnalisez votre Grand Seiko avec notre sélection d’accessoires :

Eyrolles

Eagle Eye Watches

Iconic Switzerland

Oris
Artelier

Glashütte Original
Sixties

Zenith
Defy Skyline

Minase
Uruga

Universal Genève
Polerouter Date