The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

This piece is a real favorite that is part of the quest for my first vintage timepiece. It brings together everything I was looking for, namely a precise movement (COSC), a contained case size, a prestigious brand, an original and limited dial and a so-called "dressy" style. The fluted bezel and the astral blue of the bracelet complete this harmonious ensemble, resolutely elegant, timeless, discreet and which will certainly speak to connoisseurs.

Stars on your wrist!

This is my first mechanical watch. It's the first piece I bought for myself after contracting the watchmaking bug.

Before you wonder, it's a reliable watch despite its very low cost. It's the watch I wear the most; it accompanies me daily to my work. It never lets me down.

The choice of colors is not insignificant, beyond an affinity with orange and blue. Besides, when you're diving, orange is one of, if not THE, colors that is most noticeable underwater. Now, I don't dive.

It's a robust, reliable watch that exudes presence on the wrist and will make an impression on laypeople. I've even recommended it to a few friends who were completely unfamiliar with watchmaking and who subsequently took the plunge and purchased an Orient.

The presence of a day window on the dial is a mistake in my opinion. A date window alone would have been sufficient in my opinion.

Finally, the sunburst dial is a truly pleasant surprise. Depending on the lighting, you can see up to three different shades of blue, which for a watch in this range is quite impressive.

You get the idea, it's a winner!

Ready for adventure

This beautiful 60s-style Seiko Presage is an impulse buy! During a watch day with a friend, this model caught my eye. We first went into the store to try it on, then left. We finally returned later that day to purchase it. Each in a different color.

At the time of purchase (April 2021), the watch had already been out for a few months, but I hadn't noticed. It's a classic daily watch with a sporty look, accentuated by its changing blue color depending on the sun's reflections. It's a watch I always enjoy wearing, particularly for its anonymity, its date function, and its particularly comfortable steel bracelet.

I wear this watch as regularly as the others in my collection, and I always enjoy wearing it. For someone looking to get into watchmaking on a budget, this is a perfect piece.

Impulse buying!

My first gold watch! This was a box to tick: owning a gold watch with a story. This UG was made in 1962, the year my father was born, which made sense to me.

This watch also reflected, at the time, a new phase in my personal watchmaking, which was to reduce dial sizes as much as possible. I started with diameters of 42-44mm; today, I never look above 40mm.

What I appreciate most about this piece is the incomparable feeling of class, comfort, discretion, and understatement it exudes. You can't feel it on your wrist; you almost forget it.

The choice of the UG brand, however, was somewhat of a choice. Indeed, I didn't have a preferred brand in mind when I started hunting for a vintage gold watch.

Classic and historical

This is my most beautiful watch! The most beautiful doesn't automatically mean the most emotional!

It's the most elaborate piece in my collection, whether in terms of mechanics, decorations, or even the case finishes. I stumbled upon the NOMOS brand by chance six years ago. The Bauhaus style won me over with its philosophy and its radical, refined, and ingenious approach. It was only by taking a closer look at NOMOS movements that I finally decided to buy it.

I finally opted for this Orion 343 model with an in-house automatic movement. I hesitated for a long time over the choice of dial color, but ultimately, this anthracite gray is what I'm happy with today.

I opted for the 38.5cm diameter at the time (2021); with my current tastes, I'd rather go for a 36mm. However, I wouldn't trade it for a smaller diameter today.

For me, this is a watch that perfectly meets the criteria I had for this type of piece. I'll conclude by emphasizing that this beautiful NOMOS truly delivers its full potential in moonlight. The lunar reflections on the hour markers are wonderful to observe. As you can see, four years after purchasing it, I'm still under its spell.

German quality!

Universal Gen&egrave;ve, founded in 1894, is a Swiss watch manufacturer renowned for its innovations and iconic designs. Over the decades, the brand has marked the history of watchmaking with flagship models and significant technical advances.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: 1894-1930</h2>
In 1894, in Le Locle, Switzerland, Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret founded the Universal Watch company, specializing in the production of movements for pocket watches and wristwatches. After the premature death of Descombes in 1897, Perret joined forces with Louis-Edouard Berthoud, and the company was renamed Perret &amp; Berthoud. In 1919, the company moved to Geneva, thus strengthening its Swiss identity. During this period, Universal distinguished itself by the creation of chronograph wristwatches, a notable innovation at a time when pocket watches dominated the market.
<h2 dir="ltr">Expansion et Innovations : 1930-1950</h2>
In the 1930s, Universal Gen&egrave;ve became known for its high-quality chronographs. In 1936, the brand launches the &ldquo;Compax&rdquo;, the first wrist chronograph with two subdials, followed in 1944 by the "Tri-Compax", incorporating complications such as the complete calendar and the moon phase. These models met with international success, strengthening the reputation of the brand. In 1937, the company officially adopts the name Universal Gen&egrave;ve, symbolizing its attachment to the city and its commitment to watchmaking excellence.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Polerouter and Microtor Era: 1950-1970</h2>
In 1954, Universal Geneva presented the "Polerouter", designed by the young designer G&eacute;rald Genta. This model, initially named "Polarouter", celebrates the inaugural flights of the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) above the North Pole. The Polerouter is equipped with the micro-rotor caliber 215, an innovation that reduces the thickness of the movement while maintaining optimal performance. This period is marked by the introduction of the "Golden Shadow" series in 1965, equipped with caliber 66, then the thinnest automatic movement in the world with a thickness of only 2.3 mm.
<h2 dir="ltr">Challenges and Adaptations: 1970-1990</h2>
The 1970s brought major challenges with the quartz crisis. Universal Gen&egrave;ve, like many Swiss manufacturers, must adapt to this new technology. The brand introduces quartz models, but this transition affects its position in the market. In 1989, Universal Gen&egrave;ve was acquired by the Hong Kong group Stelux Holdings International Ltd., also owner of the Cyma brand. This acquisition aims to revitalize the brand by combining Swiss heritage with a strategy oriented towards the Asian market.
<h2 dir="ltr">Renaissance and Future Perspectives: 2000 to Today</h2>
In the early 2000s, Universal Gen&egrave;ve attempted to reconnect with its heritage by relaunching iconic models and emphasizing innovation. In 2007, the brand presented a new collection based on Microtor, a technology it had initially developed in 1955. This initiative aims to attract fans of classic watches while integrating modern elements.
In December 2023, Stelux Holdings sells Universal Gen&egrave;ve to Breitling SA, marking a new stage in the history of the brand. This acquisition by Breitling, another renowned Swiss watch house, raises hopes of a renaissance for Universal Gen&egrave;ve, with plans to revive the production of new models by 2026.
<h2 dir="ltr">Impact and Legacy</h2>
Universal Gen&egrave;ve has played a crucial role in the evolution of watchmaking, particularly through its innovations in chronographs and automatic movements. Collaboration with renowned designers, such as G&eacute;rald Genta, has allowed the brand to create timeless models that remain popular with collectors. Despite the challenges encountered over the decades, the legacy of Universal Gen&egrave;ve endures, and the recent acquisition by Breitling offers a promising outlook for the future of this historic brand.
In conclusion, Universal Gen&egrave;ve embodies the innovation and elegance of Swiss watchmaking. With a history rich in iconic creations and technical advances, the brand has left an indelible mark on the world of watchmaking. The new era that is coming under the aegis of Breitling is impatiently awaited by enthusiasts and collectors, hoping for a renaissance to match its prestigious past.
To choose the Universal Gen&egrave;ve model that best suits you, the Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews are an essential resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience
(Updated November 2024)

This is a vintage watch from 1968 with an electromechanical tuning fork movement (ESA 9164). The diameter is small 34mm but perfect for my chicken wrist. The particular design of its case seduced me, its dial worn with time is very beautiful. 
What can I say about the tuning fork movement, the fluidity of the second hand hypnotizes it every time I look at it.

Universal Genève Unisonic

This little Universal Genève is particularly close to my heart. To do this, we have to go back to 1986. At that time, I was young but already passionate about watchmaking. I remember very well that day in September when I was chatting with a lovely "grandpa" about the watch he was wearing on his wrist. And after two hours of intense dialogue about it and watches in general, he took his off and offered it to me. Of course, I refused, telling him that he would regret his gesture that very evening towards a person he didn't even know the day before. But no, he insisted strongly and was so happy that a young person could be interested in this passion. It must be said that at the time, finding out about brands was not easy. No social networks, no internet, but only advertisements in magazines, a few newspaper articles, and retailer catalogs when they were willing to give them to you! The "grandpa" and I talked for another hour, during which he gave me some wise collector's advice that I have always followed since. And then we parted ways. I never knew his name, and I have never seen him again. But his watch has been in my collection for 37 years now. And I make it my duty to ensure that it always remains in perfect working order. Specifically, it is a Universal Genève ref. 306501/4P that he bought in the early 60s. The caliber is the 332 with 17 jewels and manual winding. An ultra classic watch, but very well made. The dial had a lovely speckled patina that has grown over time. I like it like that. This watch was my first vintage dress watch, and this patina reinforces its old-fashioned side. It is obviously a watch that I will keep all my life (unless I pass it on to a young enthusiast, who knows?). For me, it remains the symbol of what my passion for watchmaking is: curiosity, wonderful encounters, reciprocal and constructive exchanges, and emotion, whatever the brand or the price.

A watch that is above all symbolic

Universal Genève is a legendary brand that has not made, dare we say, legendary watches. And yes, the polerouter is a passion of an enthusiast and not an icon. However, it is not necessary to create icons to become a renowned brand, Universal Geneva is one of them. This Universal Geneva has nothing emblematic, it is a watch with a tonneau case like so many others from the early 70s, late 60s, it was even originally available with different movements (micro-rotor or manual like this one). But do we need to be an icon? This watch will not have marked its time but its time has marked it and that is already enough. A two-hand, manual, a gold-plated case like there were thousands of in those years but nevertheless rare were those who did it as well.

Icons sometimes die

Atelier Jalaper est une marque horlog&egrave;re franco-belge fond&eacute;e en 2019 par Louis Jalaber et Simon Szleper. Elle se distingue par une approche unique qui fusionne l'horlogerie traditionnelle avec l'h&eacute;ritage automobile en int&eacute;grant des &eacute;l&eacute;ments authentiques de voitures l&eacute;gendaires dans ses montres.
<h3>Origines et Fondation</h3>
Louis Jalaber et Simon Szleper se sont rencontr&eacute;s lors de leurs &eacute;tudes &agrave; l'ESCP Europe, partageant une passion commune pour l'horlogerie et l'automobile. Leur ambition &eacute;tait de cr&eacute;er une montre qui ne se contenterait pas de s'inspirer du design automobile, mais qui int&eacute;grerait v&eacute;ritablement une partie de l'histoire automobile. Cette vision les a conduits &agrave; fonder Atelier Jalaper en 2019.
<h3>Concept et Philosophie</h3>
La philosophie d'Atelier Jalaper repose sur l'id&eacute;e de donner une nouvelle vie &agrave; des voitures embl&eacute;matiques en les int&eacute;grant dans des montres de haute qualit&eacute;. Chaque garde-temps est con&ccedil;u avec des cadrans fabriqu&eacute;s &agrave; partir de pi&egrave;ces authentiques de voitures l&eacute;gendaires, offrant ainsi aux passionn&eacute;s une connexion tangible avec l'histoire automobile.
<h3>Collections et Mod&egrave;les</h3>
Collection DB5
La premi&egrave;re collection d'Atelier Jalaper rend hommage &agrave; l'Aston Martin DB5, une ic&ocirc;ne des ann&eacute;es 1960. Les cadrans de ces montres sont d&eacute;coup&eacute;s dans le capot en aluminium d'une v&eacute;ritable DB5, conf&eacute;rant &agrave; chaque pi&egrave;ce une patine unique. La collection comprend quatre mod&egrave;les :
<ul>
<li>AJ001-S : Mod&egrave;le avec affichage de la date, bo&icirc;tier en acier inoxydable</li>
<li>AJ001-B : Version avec bo&icirc;tier en PVD noir</li>
<li>AJ002-S : Mod&egrave;le avec affichage du jour et de la date, bo&icirc;tier en acier inoxydable</li>
<li>AJ002-B : Version avec bo&icirc;tier en PVD noir</li>
</ul>
Ces montres sont &eacute;quip&eacute;es de mouvements automatiques Miyota, offrant une r&eacute;serve de marche de 42 heures.
Collection Miura
La deuxi&egrave;me collection s'inspire de la Lamborghini Miura, souvent consid&eacute;r&eacute;e comme la premi&egrave;re supercar au monde. Les cadrans sont fabriqu&eacute;s &agrave; partir de pi&egrave;ces authentiques de la Miura, et la collection propose plusieurs variantes :
<ul>
<li>AJ-P400-V : Version avec r&eacute;haut vert</li>
<li>AJ-P400-N : Version avec r&eacute;haut noir</li>
<li>AJ-P400-O : Version avec r&eacute;haut orange</li>
<li>AJ-P400-B : Version avec r&eacute;haut bleu</li>
</ul>
Ces mod&egrave;les sont anim&eacute;s par des mouvements &agrave; remontage manuel Sellita SW270-1 M, offrant une r&eacute;serve de marche d'environ 45 heures.
Collection Jaguar Type E
La troisi&egrave;me collection s'inspire de la Jaguar Type E, l'une des autos les plus reconnaissables entre toutes. Les cadrans sont fabriqu&eacute;s &agrave; partir de pi&egrave;ces authentiques d'une Jaguar Type E semi-lightweight de 1962, et la collection propose deux variantes :
<ul>
<li>AJ-003-B : Version au cadran stri&eacute;</li>
<li>AJ-003-W : Version au cadran noir anodis&eacute;</li>
</ul>
Ces mod&egrave;les sont anim&eacute;s par des mouvements &agrave; remontage automatique Sellita SW300-1, offrant une r&eacute;serve de marche d'environ 42 heures.
<h3>Processus de Fabrication et Savoir-Faire</h3>
Atelier Jalaper collabore avec des artisans et des experts horlogers bas&eacute;s &agrave; La Chaux-de-Fonds, en Suisse, pour assurer une qualit&eacute; exceptionnelle. Le processus de fabrication implique une d&eacute;coupe pr&eacute;cise des pi&egrave;ces automobiles pour cr&eacute;er des cadrans uniques, suivie d'un assemblage minutieux pour garantir la fiabilit&eacute; et l'esth&eacute;tique de chaque montre.
<h3>Engagement envers l'Authenticit&eacute; et l'Innovation</h3>
La marque s'engage &agrave; pr&eacute;server l'authenticit&eacute; des mat&eacute;riaux utilis&eacute;s tout en innovant dans le design et la fonctionnalit&eacute;. Chaque montre est num&eacute;rot&eacute;e et porte en elle l'&acirc;me de la voiture dont elle est issue, offrant aux collectionneurs et aux passionn&eacute;s une pi&egrave;ce de l'histoire automobile &agrave; leur poignet.
<h3>R&eacute;ception et Perspectives d'Avenir</h3>
Depuis son lancement, Atelier Jalaper a re&ccedil;u des retours positifs pour son concept novateur et la qualit&eacute; de ses montres. La marque continue d'explorer de nouvelles collaborations avec des voitures l&eacute;gendaires, &eacute;largissant ainsi sa collection et renfor&ccedil;ant sa position unique &agrave; l'intersection de l'horlogerie et de l'automobile.
En conclusion, Atelier Jalaper se distingue par sa capacit&eacute; &agrave; fusionner l'art horloger avec l'h&eacute;ritage automobile, cr&eacute;ant des montres qui racontent une histoire unique et offrent une exp&eacute;rience &eacute;motionnelle aux passionn&eacute;s des deux univers.
Inspirez-vous des avis clients Dialicious pour choisir la montre Atelier Jalaper qui vous convient le mieux. D&eacute;couvrez &eacute;galement le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_de_sports_mecaniques">classement des marques de montres inspir&eacute;es du sport automobile</a>.
(Mise &agrave; jour Mars 2025)

Atelier Jalaper is a Franco-Belgian watch brand founded in 2019 by Louis Jalaber and Simon Szleper. It is distinguished by a unique approach that merges traditional watchmaking with automotive heritage by integrating authentic elements of legendary cars into its watches.
<h3 dir="ltr">Origins and Foundation</h3>
Louis Jalaber and Simon Szleper met during their studies at ESCP Europe, sharing a common passion for watchmaking and automobiles. Their ambition was to create a watch that would not only be inspired by automotive design, but would truly incorporate a part of automotive history. This vision led them to found Atelier Jalaper in 2019.
<h3 dir="ltr">Concept and Philosophy</h3>
Atelier Jalaper's philosophy is based on the idea of ​​giving new life to iconic cars by integrating them into high-quality watches. Each timepiece is designed with dials made from authentic parts from legendary cars, providing enthusiasts with a tangible connection to automotive history.
<h3 dir="ltr">Collections and Models</h3>
Collection DB5
Atelier Jalaper's first collection pays homage to the Aston Martin DB5, an icon of the 1960s. The dials of these watches are cut from the aluminum cover of a real DB5, giving each piece a unique patina. The collection includes four models:
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ001-S: Model with date display, stainless steel case
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ001-B:&nbsp;Version with black PVD case
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ002-S: Model with day and date display, stainless steel case
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ002-B: Version with black PVD case
</li>
</ul>
These watches are equipped with Miyota automatic movements, offering a power reserve of 42 hours.
Collection Miura
The second collection is inspired by the Lamborghini Miura, often considered the world's first supercar. The dials are made from authentic Miura parts, and the collection offers several variations:
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ-P400-V: Version with green flange
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ-P400-N: Version with black flange
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ-P400-O: Version with orange flange
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ-P400-B: Version with blue flange
</li>
</ul>
These models are powered by Sellita SW270-1 M hand-wound movements, offering a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.
Jaguar E-Type Collection
The third collection is inspired by the Jaguar E-Type, one of the most recognizable cars of all. The dials are made from genuine parts from a 1962&nbsp;Jaguar E-Type semi-lightweight, and the collection offers two variants:
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ-003-B: Version with vertically brushed dial
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
AJ-003-W: Version with black anodized dial
</li>
</ul>
These models are driven by Sellita SW300-1 self-winding movements, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
<h3 dir="ltr">Manufacturing Process and Know-How</h3>
Atelier Jalaper collaborates with artisans and watchmaking experts based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, to ensure exceptional quality. The manufacturing process involves precise cutting of automotive parts to create unique dials, followed by careful assembly to ensure the reliability and aesthetics of each watch.
<h3 dir="ltr">Commitment to Authenticity and Innovation</h3>
The brand is committed to preserving the authenticity of the materials used while innovating in design and functionality. Each watch is numbered and carries within it the soul of the car from which it comes, offering collectors and enthusiasts a piece of automotive history on their wrist.
<h3 dir="ltr">Reception and Future Prospects</h3>
Since its launch, Atelier Jalaper has received positive feedback for its innovative concept and the quality of its watches. The brand continues to explore new collaborations with legendary cars, expanding its collection and strengthening its unique position at the intersection of watchmaking and automobiles.&nbsp;In conclusion, Atelier Jalaper stands out for its ability to merge the art of watchmaking with automotive heritage, creating watches that tell a unique story and offer an emotional experience to enthusiasts of both worlds.
Take inspiration from Dialicious customer reviews to choose the Atelier Jalaper watch that suits you best. Also discover the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_brands_of_motor_sports_watches">ranking of watch brands inspired by motorsport</a>.
(Updated March 2025)

Universal Genève Owner Review : Elegant, charming and logical

Classic and historical

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