The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

This beautiful 60s-style Seiko Presage is an impulse buy! During a watch day with a friend, this model caught my eye. We first went into the store to try it on, then left. We finally returned later that day to purchase it. Each in a different color.

At the time of purchase (April 2021), the watch had already been out for a few months, but I hadn't noticed. It's a classic daily watch with a sporty look, accentuated by its changing blue color depending on the sun's reflections. It's a watch I always enjoy wearing, particularly for its anonymity, its date function, and its particularly comfortable steel bracelet.

I wear this watch as regularly as the others in my collection, and I always enjoy wearing it. For someone looking to get into watchmaking on a budget, this is a perfect piece.

Impulse buying!

This piece is a real favorite that is part of the quest for my first vintage timepiece. It brings together everything I was looking for, namely a precise movement (COSC), a contained case size, a prestigious brand, an original and limited dial and a so-called "dressy" style. The fluted bezel and the astral blue of the bracelet complete this harmonious ensemble, resolutely elegant, timeless, discreet and which will certainly speak to connoisseurs.

Stars on your wrist!

This mechanical Hamilton met the dual objective of being a green watch and hand-wound.

I also wanted a solid watch; the brushed steel case and 50m water resistance support this criterion; and one that was relatively thin (hence the choice of a manual winding). Its "forest" green dial reinforces the "military" philosophy of the piece, to which is added a dual 12-hour and 24-hour minute track. Its luminova is light, which is a shame for a "military-style" watch; it's not very functional.

The diameter is 38mm; the lug-to-lug fit, however, won't appeal to everyone. The lug width is 20mm, which is very practical for varying straps.

It's a piece I wear without worrying. It's reliable, precise, slim, robust, and a major plus: the power reserve is 80 hours. I wind it twice a week and it lasts until Sunday :)

For a first watch, a daily watch that will be used a lot, an "adventure" watch, etc., I recommend it. The original strap is adequate, but nothing more.

Hamilton Khaki Field // The all-purpose option!

The acquisition of this watch is above all the story of an encounter with another enthusiast, Alexandre VOIRIN (President, Founder, and Designer of the CARLINGUE brand).

I had the chance and the opportunity to acquire this piece during the second edition of Time Fest in Bordeaux on May 18, 2025. By the way, thank you to the organizers who did a wonderful job.

I mentioned the encounter a little earlier, but the first attraction was visual, and what a visual! The CARL-DIV-01 draws you in and draws you to its center, only to eject you towards the edges of the dial, and so on. I never tire of looking at it again and again (the novelty effect, and you're probably right).

This is, as its name suggests, a diver's watch. It has all the hallmarks of a diver's watch; the superluminova is particularly well-crafted, with a well-thought-out touch on the indicator at 12 o'clock on the rotating bezel. DIV-01 is water-resistant to 200m, which for me is ideal. A major plus is its thickness, which is less than 12mm (11.85mm). The case is semi-brushed (you get the idea), which reinforces the idea of robustness and a watch ready for adventure.

The lug-to-lug design won't suit everyone (51mm), however, it disappears from view when you look at the dial, making it easy to forget. The caseback features a nice engraving (see photos). The case has a slight chamfer on the top and bottom of the lug. The bezel has 120 clicks.

I mentioned the encounter above, and I'll come back to it here. This piece is designed, conceived, produced, and sold by an enthusiast, and that changes everything. From a collector's perspective, I've sometimes been poorly regarded or poorly received by certain brands that I won't name. The experience offered here is worlds apart! Alexandre VOIRIN knew how to convey his energy, enthusiasm, and passion, as well as his vision.

Finally, the overall quality of the watch, as well as its movement (Miyota 9000 series), and the feel of it on my wrist confirm that I have acquired an exceptional piece considering its price.

I invite you to take a look at the other models offered at CARLINGUE; without getting involved, I think you'll find what you're looking for.



Green with pleasure!

This is my first mechanical watch. It's the first piece I bought for myself after contracting the watchmaking bug.

Before you wonder, it's a reliable watch despite its very low cost. It's the watch I wear the most; it accompanies me daily to my work. It never lets me down.

The choice of colors is not insignificant, beyond an affinity with orange and blue. Besides, when you're diving, orange is one of, if not THE, colors that is most noticeable underwater. Now, I don't dive.

It's a robust, reliable watch that exudes presence on the wrist and will make an impression on laypeople. I've even recommended it to a few friends who were completely unfamiliar with watchmaking and who subsequently took the plunge and purchased an Orient.

The presence of a day window on the dial is a mistake in my opinion. A date window alone would have been sufficient in my opinion.

Finally, the sunburst dial is a truly pleasant surprise. Depending on the lighting, you can see up to three different shades of blue, which for a watch in this range is quite impressive.

You get the idea, it's a winner!

Ready for adventure

My first gold watch! This was a box to tick: owning a gold watch with a story. This UG was made in 1962, the year my father was born, which made sense to me.

This watch also reflected, at the time, a new phase in my personal watchmaking, which was to reduce dial sizes as much as possible. I started with diameters of 42-44mm; today, I never look above 40mm.

What I appreciate most about this piece is the incomparable feeling of class, comfort, discretion, and understatement it exudes. You can't feel it on your wrist; you almost forget it.

The choice of the UG brand, however, was somewhat of a choice. Indeed, I didn't have a preferred brand in mind when I started hunting for a vintage gold watch.

Classic and historical

This is my most beautiful watch! The most beautiful doesn't automatically mean the most emotional!

It's the most elaborate piece in my collection, whether in terms of mechanics, decorations, or even the case finishes. I stumbled upon the NOMOS brand by chance six years ago. The Bauhaus style won me over with its philosophy and its radical, refined, and ingenious approach. It was only by taking a closer look at NOMOS movements that I finally decided to buy it.

I finally opted for this Orion 343 model with an in-house automatic movement. I hesitated for a long time over the choice of dial color, but ultimately, this anthracite gray is what I'm happy with today.

I opted for the 38.5cm diameter at the time (2021); with my current tastes, I'd rather go for a 36mm. However, I wouldn't trade it for a smaller diameter today.

For me, this is a watch that perfectly meets the criteria I had for this type of piece. I'll conclude by emphasizing that this beautiful NOMOS truly delivers its full potential in moonlight. The lunar reflections on the hour markers are wonderful to observe. As you can see, four years after purchasing it, I'm still under its spell.

German quality!

Universal Gen&egrave;ve, founded in 1894, is a Swiss watch manufacturer renowned for its innovations and iconic designs. Over the decades, the brand has marked the history of watchmaking with flagship models and significant technical advances.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: 1894-1930</h2>
In 1894, in Le Locle, Switzerland, Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret founded the Universal Watch company, specializing in the production of movements for pocket watches and wristwatches. After the premature death of Descombes in 1897, Perret joined forces with Louis-Edouard Berthoud, and the company was renamed Perret &amp; Berthoud. In 1919, the company moved to Geneva, thus strengthening its Swiss identity. During this period, Universal distinguished itself by the creation of chronograph wristwatches, a notable innovation at a time when pocket watches dominated the market.
<h2 dir="ltr">Expansion et Innovations : 1930-1950</h2>
In the 1930s, Universal Gen&egrave;ve became known for its high-quality chronographs. In 1936, the brand launches the &ldquo;Compax&rdquo;, the first wrist chronograph with two subdials, followed in 1944 by the "Tri-Compax", incorporating complications such as the complete calendar and the moon phase. These models met with international success, strengthening the reputation of the brand. In 1937, the company officially adopts the name Universal Gen&egrave;ve, symbolizing its attachment to the city and its commitment to watchmaking excellence.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Polerouter and Microtor Era: 1950-1970</h2>
In 1954, Universal Geneva presented the "Polerouter", designed by the young designer G&eacute;rald Genta. This model, initially named "Polarouter", celebrates the inaugural flights of the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) above the North Pole. The Polerouter is equipped with the micro-rotor caliber 215, an innovation that reduces the thickness of the movement while maintaining optimal performance. This period is marked by the introduction of the "Golden Shadow" series in 1965, equipped with caliber 66, then the thinnest automatic movement in the world with a thickness of only 2.3 mm.
<h2 dir="ltr">Challenges and Adaptations: 1970-1990</h2>
The 1970s brought major challenges with the quartz crisis. Universal Gen&egrave;ve, like many Swiss manufacturers, must adapt to this new technology. The brand introduces quartz models, but this transition affects its position in the market. In 1989, Universal Gen&egrave;ve was acquired by the Hong Kong group Stelux Holdings International Ltd., also owner of the Cyma brand. This acquisition aims to revitalize the brand by combining Swiss heritage with a strategy oriented towards the Asian market.
<h2 dir="ltr">Renaissance and Future Perspectives: 2000 to Today</h2>
In the early 2000s, Universal Gen&egrave;ve attempted to reconnect with its heritage by relaunching iconic models and emphasizing innovation. In 2007, the brand presented a new collection based on Microtor, a technology it had initially developed in 1955. This initiative aims to attract fans of classic watches while integrating modern elements.
In December 2023, Stelux Holdings sells Universal Gen&egrave;ve to Breitling SA, marking a new stage in the history of the brand. This acquisition by Breitling, another renowned Swiss watch house, raises hopes of a renaissance for Universal Gen&egrave;ve, with plans to revive the production of new models by 2026.
<h2 dir="ltr">Impact and Legacy</h2>
Universal Gen&egrave;ve has played a crucial role in the evolution of watchmaking, particularly through its innovations in chronographs and automatic movements. Collaboration with renowned designers, such as G&eacute;rald Genta, has allowed the brand to create timeless models that remain popular with collectors. Despite the challenges encountered over the decades, the legacy of Universal Gen&egrave;ve endures, and the recent acquisition by Breitling offers a promising outlook for the future of this historic brand.
In conclusion, Universal Gen&egrave;ve embodies the innovation and elegance of Swiss watchmaking. With a history rich in iconic creations and technical advances, the brand has left an indelible mark on the world of watchmaking. The new era that is coming under the aegis of Breitling is impatiently awaited by enthusiasts and collectors, hoping for a renaissance to match its prestigious past.
To choose the Universal Gen&egrave;ve model that best suits you, the Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews are an essential resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience
(Updated November 2024)

This is a vintage watch from 1968 with an electromechanical tuning fork movement (ESA 9164). The diameter is small 34mm but perfect for my chicken wrist. The particular design of its case seduced me, its dial worn with time is very beautiful. 
What can I say about the tuning fork movement, the fluidity of the second hand hypnotizes it every time I look at it.

Universal Genève Unisonic

This little Universal Genève is particularly close to my heart. To do this, we have to go back to 1986. At that time, I was young but already passionate about watchmaking. I remember very well that day in September when I was chatting with a lovely "grandpa" about the watch he was wearing on his wrist. And after two hours of intense dialogue about it and watches in general, he took his off and offered it to me. Of course, I refused, telling him that he would regret his gesture that very evening towards a person he didn't even know the day before. But no, he insisted strongly and was so happy that a young person could be interested in this passion. It must be said that at the time, finding out about brands was not easy. No social networks, no internet, but only advertisements in magazines, a few newspaper articles, and retailer catalogs when they were willing to give them to you! The "grandpa" and I talked for another hour, during which he gave me some wise collector's advice that I have always followed since. And then we parted ways. I never knew his name, and I have never seen him again. But his watch has been in my collection for 37 years now. And I make it my duty to ensure that it always remains in perfect working order. Specifically, it is a Universal Genève ref. 306501/4P that he bought in the early 60s. The caliber is the 332 with 17 jewels and manual winding. An ultra classic watch, but very well made. The dial had a lovely speckled patina that has grown over time. I like it like that. This watch was my first vintage dress watch, and this patina reinforces its old-fashioned side. It is obviously a watch that I will keep all my life (unless I pass it on to a young enthusiast, who knows?). For me, it remains the symbol of what my passion for watchmaking is: curiosity, wonderful encounters, reciprocal and constructive exchanges, and emotion, whatever the brand or the price.

A watch that is above all symbolic

Universal Genève is a legendary brand that has not made, dare we say, legendary watches. And yes, the polerouter is a passion of an enthusiast and not an icon. However, it is not necessary to create icons to become a renowned brand, Universal Geneva is one of them. This Universal Geneva has nothing emblematic, it is a watch with a tonneau case like so many others from the early 70s, late 60s, it was even originally available with different movements (micro-rotor or manual like this one). But do we need to be an icon? This watch will not have marked its time but its time has marked it and that is already enough. A two-hand, manual, a gold-plated case like there were thousands of in those years but nevertheless rare were those who did it as well.

Icons sometimes die

La marque Ollech &amp; Wajs a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 1956 par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs &agrave; Zurich en Suisse. Albert &eacute;tait charg&eacute; de la conception, de l&rsquo;ing&eacute;nierie et de la fabrication des montres, tandis que Joseph s&rsquo;occupait du marketing et de la vente au d&eacute;tail. Avant de cr&eacute;er leur propre montres sous la marque Ollech &amp; Wajs, ils ont commenc&eacute; leur activit&eacute; en 1954 en fabriquant des bracelets en acier pour d&rsquo;autres marques.
La marque est connue pour avoir distribu&eacute; des montres &agrave; des unit&eacute;s de l&rsquo;arm&eacute;e am&eacute;ricaine pendant la guerre du Vietnam et pour avoir gagn&eacute; sa renomm&eacute;e aupr&egrave;s des plongeurs et pilotes du monde entier.
Apr&egrave;s 12 ans de n&eacute;gociation et apr&egrave;s avoir &eacute;t&eacute; son distributeur pour le march&eacute; fran&ccedil;ais, en 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, un passionn&eacute; d&rsquo;horlogerie, rach&egrave;te la marque. La gamme actuelle comprend des mod&egrave;les comme la Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph">Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> et la Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.
<h2>Combien co&ucirc;te une montre Ollech &amp; Wajs ?</h2>
Les prix des montres Ollech &amp; Wajs &eacute;voluent et diff&egrave;rent selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre CHF 1,500 et CHF 2,000 selon les mod&egrave;les et les finitions. Comptez CHF 1,456 pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI et pr&egrave;s de CHF 2,300 pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronographe. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Ollech &amp; Wajs moins ch&egrave;re. Les mod&egrave;les Vintage notamment les Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron et&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, sont tr&egrave;s pris&eacute;es des collectionneurs et ils convient de bien se renseigner sur le vendeur avant de franchir le pas de l'acquisition d'une vintage.
Ollech &amp; Wajs est une marque de montres ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une Ollech &amp; Wajs qui vous correspond le mieux,&nbsp;les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Octobre 2024)

The brand Ollech &amp; Wajs was created in 1956 by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs in Zurich, Switzerland. Albert was responsible for the design, engineering and manufacturing of the watches, while Joseph handled marketing and retail sales. Before creating their own watches under the brand Ollech &amp; Wajs, they started their business in 1954 making steel bracelets for other brands.
The brand is known for distributing watches to units of the American army during the Vietnam War and for having earned its reputation among divers and pilots around the world.
After 12 years of negotiations and after having been its distributor for the French market, in 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, a watchmaking enthusiast, bought the brand. The current range includes models like the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph"> Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> and the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Ollech &amp; Wajs watch cost?</h2>
The prices of Ollech &amp; Wajs watches change and differ depending on the model. Most cost between CHF 1,500 and CHF 2,000 depending on the models and finishes. Expect to pay CHF 1,456 for an Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI and close to CHF 2,300 for an Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronograph. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a cheaper Ollech &amp; Wajs. Vintage models including the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron and&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, are very popular with collectors and they should find out about the seller before taking the step of purchasing a vintage one.
Ollech &amp; Wajs is an independent watch brand and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Ollech &amp; Wajs that best suits you, Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real owner experience.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated October 2024)

Universal Genève Owner Review : Elegant, charming and logical

Classic and historical

Pros & Cons for this watch

Where to buy your Universal Genève?

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