Tylex - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Tylex is a historical watch label whose founding year is uncertain during the 60s; Tylex-signed pieces surface from the mid-20th century (1950s–1970s), with examples marked “Swiss Made” as well as “Made in France,” pointing to a period-typical trading-house model (European component sourcing, varied assembly) and distribution mainly through retailers.

Activity clues (1950s–1970s) and uncertain geographical roots

Documented watches range from simple hand-wound “ancre 17 rubis” pieces to chronographs, plus pointer-date and GMT/worldtime models, placing activity in the second half of the 20th century when many “trading” brands offered composite catalogues — the coexistence of Tylex dials stamped “Swiss Made” and others “Made in France” suggests split production between Swiss suppliers and French workshops.

Small diameters (≈32–34 mm without crown) typical of the 1950s–1960s appear, sometimes in 10-micron gold-plated cases with steel backs, sometimes in full steel, usually with domed acrylic crystals; dial patina (two-tone, “tropicalisation”) and numeral fonts align with the period’s codes, and the visual vocabulary matches mainstream ébauches (FHF, AS, FE, ETA) and multiple case makers.

With no public archive or official communications, the exact founding place, the name of a founder, or corporate structure remain “not disclosed”; one must rely on surviving pieces and their markings — a common situation for pre-quartz labels that sold mainly via regional retailers and mail-order catalogues.

Period visual language: two-tone dials, “ancre 17 rubis,” and clear legibility

Observed dials alternate between two-tone layouts (contrasting chapter ring and light centre) and sober finishes with applied markers, paired with baton or syringe hands; inscriptions like “Ancre 17 Rubis,” “Antichoc,” “Antimagnetic” are standard fare in the 1950s–1960s — these cues signal solid, everyday watches rather than high complication.

Cases are mostly round and slim, aiming for discreet presence, sometimes with yellow/rose gold plating, sometimes left in steel; legibility is clean, with a peripheral minute track and, on some references, a black rehaut or outline framing the readout — it’s an elegant toolish aesthetic true to mid-century city watches.

On travel-leaning variants one finds rotating worldtime bezels and high-contrast dial colours (black/green or black/yellow) paired with a date window; the result feels sporty and practical, very much of the sixties — this segment appeals to today’s collectors for its “tool watch” charm without modern bulk.

Documented models: chronographs, GMT/worldtime and pointer-date

Secondary-market sightings outline three use families: hand-wound chronographs, travel-oriented GMT/worldtime and “civil” watches with pointer-date or simple three-hand “ancre 17 rubis”; the use of known period calibres (Valjoux for chronos, mainstream Swiss bases for the rest) frames Tylex as robust and approachable rather than movement-exclusive — this is competent mid-century watchmaking, not a vertically integrated manufacture.

• Tylex Chronograph Valjoux 7733 — steel/gold-plated case (steel back), telemeter or tachymeter scale, 17 jewels; classic 1950s–1970s configuration.
• Tylex GMT Worldtime — rotating city bezel, date at 3 o’clock, contrasted dials (black/green or black/yellow), a very sixties “rally/GT” vibe.
• Tylex Pointer Date — peripheral pointer date, light dial, slim hands, clear “calendar” reading.
• Tylex Ancre 17 Rubis — three-hand manual, 32–34 mm formats, steel or plated, frequent “Antichoc/Antimagnetic” markings.

These labels describe typologies rather than known internal references (none are publicly listed); still, they help file Tylex sightings by use and build — a handy reflex if you plan to compare specimens before buying or commissioning a service.

Positioning, routes to market and pricing: a trading house with a composite line

Back then, many labels like Tylex had watches assembled from components sourced from Swiss makers and European case suppliers; they stocked jewellers’ windows (and sometimes mail-order catalogues) with convincing value — today’s lack of a central voice argues for this “trading-house” profile rather than an integrated manufacture.

Original retail prices are “not disclosed”; observed values on today’s collector market remain modest for three-handers and pointer-dates, higher for chronographs carrying a prized calibre; as usual, condition (original dial, hands, crown, movement) is paramount — the right example beats the right price.

Modern-day availability is exclusively secondary (online auctions, specialist dealers, forums, classifieds); to the best of public sources there is no first-hand Tylex structure active — buyers must judge “watch by watch,” checking coherence and authenticity.

Collectors’ market: relative scarcity, servicing and cautions

Plain Tylex three-handers (“ancre 17 rubis”) crop up regularly, sometimes in appealing drawer-fresh condition; pointer-date and GMT/worldtime are scarcer and more sought-after, while chronographs attract fans of the great Swiss ébauches — in all cases, original dials and honest patina carry most of the desirability.

Mechanically, the period-mainstream calibres keep maintenance viable at good workshops; favour reversible work (service, cleaning, gaskets, mainspring) and avoid undocumented redials that kill value — a truthfully patinated dial tends to trump a freshly repainted one with no provenance.

Size, often around 33 mm, may surprise wrists accustomed to modern 39–41 mm; on a thin strap (sometimes lightly grained, unpadded), proportions fall back into place — don’t judge ergonomics on the desk: a try-on in natural light tells the truth.

Practical buying tips: coherence, missing parts and documentation

Before committing, compare your target piece to several reputable listings to check typeface alignment, hand length, crown shape, and back/dial markings; a “Swiss” dial paired with a “France” back isn’t unheard of for the era, but it must be plausible for the family — when in doubt, ask for macro photos and a movement shot.

Favour complete watches: original hands, intact markers, unrefinished dial, clean movement, case back not heavily polished; mild “tropical” tone or micro-crazing under lacquer is acceptable if overall readability remains — an honest case beats a freshly replated one.

Log your piece (photos, lot number, seller, purchase date) and, if possible, get a service worksheet at the first overhaul; such records aid resale and upkeep — they also place your Tylex in history despite the absence of official archives.

Conclusion

Tylex stands for those mid-century trading-house labels that served everyday needs: sober three-handers, practical pointer-dates, travel-ready GMT/worldtimes and chronographs powered by respected ébauches. The lack of archives means deciding by typology, visual coherence and condition, accepting variability in markings (Swiss/France). To choose well, start with intended use (city, collection, travel), on-wrist size, and dial originality. To align these cues with lived ownership feedback, a practical compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.

(Updated August 2025)