Spinnaker Tesei - References, Prices and Owners' Reviews

Spinnaker Tesei is a model launched in 2018, positioned as Spinnaker’s “premium” dive line: bronze or titanium cases, sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels on select versions, and water-resistance ranging from 200 to 1000 m depending on the reference. Conceived as a tribute to Italian naval engineer Teseo Tesei, the collection spans “Swiss Automatic” (Sellita SW200) and “Titanium” (NH35/SW200 by series), aiming at an accessible, clear, maritime tool-watch for daily wear.

Design & legibility: the model’s identity

The Tesei language blends sober dials (matte, sunburst or wave-pattern), bold pencil hands with ample lume and a crisp minute flange, sometimes capped by a bi-tone ceramic insert; the display sticks to essentials (time and date) with a clear hierarchy and strong contrasts for outdoors readability, such that the Tesei’s promise is a no-nonsense tool aesthetic that still feels refined for everyday use.

Case, bracelet and daily comfort

Two core architectures: 43 mm bronze (≈ 52 mm L2L, 16 mm) rated to 300 m, and 42–43 mm titanium (≈ 51 mm L2L, 13 mm) rated to 200 m; unidirectional bezels are sometimes ceramic, the crown screws down and the back can be display sapphire. Bracelets alternate full-link steel/titanium, NBR rubber or leather for a more urban take; the low mass of titanium offsets the broad mid-case, meaning a titanium Tesei wears longer and “lighter” than an equivalent steel diver.

Movement: architecture, performance and care

Depending on the series you’ll find NH35 (3 Hz, ~41 h) or Sellita SW200 (4 Hz, ~38 h) with hacking, hand-wind and quick date; several “Swiss Automatic” pieces are assembled in Switzerland. Servicing is conventional (every 4–5 years in typical wear) with pressure checks after gasket changes or case opening, and the NH35 vs SW200 decision mainly balances cost of ownership, beat rate and a “Swiss” signature.

Timeline & main models (2018–2025)

(2018) Spinnaker Tesei Bronze “Swiss Automatic”:

The inaugural “Swiss Made” Tesei in 43 mm bronze with 300 m WR, AR sapphire, bi-tone ceramic bezel and Sellita SW200; the Teseo Tesei story grounds the maritime-engineering brief while the living bronze patina adds character. Bold hands and generous lume bolster clarity; typically delivered on leather, sometimes with a rubber option. This cornerstone sets the line’s higher trim level and appears across green/bronze palettes; a commonly cited identifier is Spinnaker Tesei SP-5060-01.

(2019) Spinnaker Tesei Bronze “Forest Green”:

A forest-green dial variant, still in 43 mm/300 m bronze with sapphire, doubling down on the “deep-ocean” vibe and the warm presence of the case alloy. The SW200 brings a smooth seconds and quick date, while the ceramic bezel contrasts nicely with the dial tone. On brown leather or black rubber it moves from weekend to office easily. Retailers list this execution as Spinnaker Tesei SP-5060-08, with stable Swiss Automatic specs (4 Hz, ~38 h).

(2020) Spinnaker Tesei Titanium “Stealth Black”:

A shift to grade-2 titanium (43 mm, ~13 mm thick, 200 m): lighter case, nitrogen hardening per some dealers, luminous ceramic bezel and AR sapphire. The stark black/white layout maximises utility; the movement is listed as NH35 or SW200 depending on reference, and the package gains in long-wear comfort. The ~51 mm lug-to-lug keeps assertive tool-watch stance. This take is frequently recorded as Spinnaker Tesei SP-5084-66.

(2020) Spinnaker Tesei Titanium “Forest Green”:

Same titanium chassis but with a sunburst green dial and distinctive sand-feel finishing; 43 × 13 mm, ~51 mm L2L, 22 mm lugs for real strap versatility. Comfort improves, shirt-cuff fit is decent despite breadth, and the bezel’s action is positive. In retail listings you’ll often find Spinnaker Tesei SP-5084-55 (or close variants) retaining 200 m and AR sapphire.

(2020) Spinnaker Tesei Titanium “White Dial”:

A bright white option with highly contrasted markers, still 43 mm/200 m with sapphire, tuned for a cleaner urban vibe. Delivered on titanium bracelet or rubber depending on configuration, with luminous bezel markings on some runs. The “utilitarian-chic” stance makes a fine daily on mid-size wrists; detailed vendor pages point to Spinnaker Tesei SP-5084-22.

(2022) Spinnaker Tesei Mille Metri “1000 m”:

A technical step-up: 44 × 16 mm steel, 1000 m WR, sapphire, (helium valve on select versions), ebony dial with gilt accents and Sellita SW200. It’s a strong presence and the line’s more “pro” positioning. The unidirectional bezel keeps bold graduations, and some retailers supply both steel bracelet and NBR rubber. One anchor identifier is Spinnaker Tesei SP-5090-11, with colour/strap variants.

(2023) Spinnaker Tesei Mille Metri “Blue/Steel”:

A colour refresh within the 1000 m concept: blue-toned insert/dial on the 44 mm base, sapphire front and an engraved “1000” case-back. The aim is a brighter look without dropping the heightened spec; it remains sizable yet day-wearable for fans of assertive tool pieces. Several shops list this cycle as Spinnaker Tesei SP-5090-33 or nearby SKUs.

Conclusion

Spinnaker Tesei targets enthusiasts who want credible, accessible maritime tools: patinated “Swiss” bronze for charm, 200 m titanium for everyday ease, 1000 m Mille Metri for maximalist specs. To decide, start with case material (bronze/titanium/steel Mille Metri), then real-world use (city, sport, water) and movement (NH35 vs SW200), and confirm on-wrist. In every case, Dialicious customer reviews help validate comfort, readability and durability over time.

(Updated September 2025)