The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

D.W.Y.T. was a small, unassuming French brand that sadly disappeared after ten years. They offered watches designed as accessible fashion accessories, easily adaptable to any mood thanks to quick-release spring bars. The cases were made of wood, a material that isn't necessarily very resistant to scratches over time, but which has the advantage of being lightweight and having a warm feel, unlike metals (wood is typically two orders of magnitude less conductive than steel, 100 times less so, whereas a titanium alloy, for example, is only 10 times less). However, the case back, which is in contact with the skin of the wrist, is made of gold-plated steel, not wood like the rest of the case.

I have a Vela with a smooth, fir green leather strap and a pin buckle. It's a watch that weighs 21g, has a diameter of 34mm, and is 8mm thick. The case is made of black sandalwood.
Since I like minimalist dials, this one suits me well: four white hour markers and two white hands on a dark background, making it very legible. The red sweeping seconds hand provides a little extra precision when needed. The gold flange adds a touch of elegance to the familiar simplicity of the hands. It's a model I appreciate.
To change the battery, you need a screwdriver, to remove four screws and detach the case back; it's a small SR621SW.

The brand name "Do Waste Your Time" is an invitation to take your time. Because being obsessed with not wasting time—which, incidentally, could be written with the same acronym DWYT for Don't Waste Your Time—means getting stuck in a routine, stressing yourself out, and missing out on things just waiting to be discovered. Serendipity requires precisely the ability to unexpectedly take one's time when necessary, provided one isn't caught up in distractions at that moment. Watches are often called "timekeepers," originally because marine chronometers literally kept the correct time when other instruments drifted. So it's in a sense of precision. But when I hear this expression, I inevitably think of "time reserve," like a "pantry" that stores food in the absence of a refrigerator. However, there isn't a time reserve for when we need it. A reserve that we could replenish when we have downtime. Perhaps artificial intelligence will soon take control of our time management through digital assistants in order to optimize our time. This watch goes against the grain of perfect time management via AI; it is remarkably simple and reminds us that we can be free to take our time.

The soundtrack I associate with this watch is "Il est libre Max" by Hervé Cristiani https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=VoLvbuIGFwI
Adjectives: light, warm, simple, accessible, customizable
Dimensions: weight 21g, thickness 8mm, case 34mm, black sandalwood

Let's take our time

Raketa is known for its 24-hour movements. This one is a bit special since it is associated with an inner bezel on which the main time zones are represented. But the language used is English and the city for CET is neither Berlin nor Paris but Geneva. In addition, on a lower circle are represented the Antarctic bases, the Antarctic continent having all the time zones, even if on some no bases are built. 
What I really like, besides this internal crown of universal time, is the night version which gives an extreme delicacy. Often the Raketa models were offered in two versions, day (white dial) and night (black dial). The thin white hands moving on the black dial always give me an impression of hushed delicacy. Added to this is the caseback number 333 that the seller from the far north assured was a message from the archangel Gabriel, a message of joy, peace and love, even if I don't know if this number is original, it doesn't hurt to wear such a number. The dial only represents the indexes of even hours and indicates odd hours with 24-minute sub-indexes (1/60 of the turn of the small hand) and 1/60 of the turn of the large hand which turns in one hour and therefore each sub-index for the large hand corresponds to one minute like all watches). Midnight being at the top of the dial and noon at the bottom. This may seem unusual as a way of doing things but in fact it is very practical to use.
The case is made of chrome-plated brass with a diameter of 38mm and a stainless steel caseback. The movement is a 2623N 24 Hours which is known to be robust and reliable.
In the end it's a watch that I really appreciate
Adjectives: Delicate, cosmopolitan, universal, soft, celestial, planetary, elegant, extreme, angelic, practical

White-gloved night traveler

The 901609 is a true classic for lovers of minimalist designs. It has just the right elements: twelve Arabic numerals, a minute track limited to the markers, three slim black hands, and a Luch logo in script. This strong contrast ensures excellent legibility. Some models even offer dial customization.

The movement is a 23-jewel Luch 2209, notable for its orange-yellow hue. The case measures 34 mm excluding the crown. It's a round, chrome-plated brass case with a snap-on steel case back bearing the Soviet quality mark and a serial number.

It's a very simple and successful model, although I'm not entirely happy about the occasional loss of the plexiglass crystal on my example.

The music I would associate with this model is Beethoven's Symphony No. 7, rearranged for piano by Paul Lay—a gravity that reveals an unexpected lightness, or perhaps the other way around. https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Sfm0OFYJEd0&si

Agile gravity

This model stands out thanks to its curved case, free of sharp edges, and its mesmerizing dial. The case is made of chrome-plated brass with a screw-down steel case back. It measures 33mm in diameter, or 35mm including the crown. The crown is easy to grip and wind. The case measures only 34mm lug to lug, yet it appears much larger. This is likely due to the highly legible dial and hands. The halo gradient creates a luminous effect, as do the large numerals in a stylized font that suggests movement or the sounds of brass instruments. The wide, two-tone hands immediately catch the eye. The numerals are large yet discreet, even blending into the halo depending on the dial's angle. The movement is a highly reliable and emblematic 2609NA from the Petrodvorets factory. It's a very successful, bold, and captivating model.

The song I would listen to with it would be Katzapy by Tik https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh_Af3gH42A

The hour of freedom

This 1970s model 611291 is classic and utterly simple. It features a 16-jewel caliber 2609NA movement. The round, chrome-plated brass case, type 613, has a snap-on steel case back and measures 34 mm in diameter and 12 mm in thickness. The dial is white with stylized black numerals and black hands. A dotted minute track is interrupted by the inscription "Made in the USSR" at 6 o'clock. The contrast is excellent, resulting in superb legibility.

What this watch evokes for me in its simplicity are the ghosts of the past, the etched memories we had forgotten in the modern world. The music that accompanies it would be the bird from the series Belle and Sebastian, whether in the original version with its rich text and childlike voice with this magnificent realization of R that we no longer hear so often (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xc-yG06NPq0), or in the modern, more refined version with ZAZ giving pride of place to the piano (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYcXLPrDVEw).

I know the clear mists, the pink snow of early mornings

The N, for Nautilus or Nemo, is the first watch from the Ukrainian-Singaporean micro-brand Horizon. Its founders, Fred Bekher and Sugi Kusumadi, are mad, as surely are all those who create a micro-brand out of passion. But they are truly obsessed.

The first models are all dedicated to the world of Jules Verne. And it's a success; it's not just a marketing gimmick (how many brands say, "Hey, let's release a blue version and call it '20,000 Leagues Under the Sea,' and a red one and call it 'Journey to the Center of the Earth'?"). The watch really makes you think Captain Nemo could wear it. The date is hidden, integrated into the 4 o'clock marker. This is one of their trademarks: visually integrating the date.
I hesitated when I saw this model offered on Kickstarter. I didn't own a dive watch. I don't actually dive, except for staying on the surface with a mask and snorkel. However, I adore Jules Verne's books; he truly is the creator of pop culture in the modern sense of the term, and many characters in his world of extraordinary voyages are every bit as compelling as James Bond, Indiana Jones, MacGyver, or Han Solo. I was hesitant, but then after seeing a prototype on a YouTube channel, I decided to support the project. It was far from simple, because between the pre-orders and delivery, there was the resurgence of Covid in China and the lockdowns we thought were over, followed by the military invasion of Ukraine, the capture of Kherson, and its bloody occupation. But the watch was finally delivered after nine months. Its thickness initially impressed me, but you get used to it, and underwater, I must say the effect is impressive; it's like a shaft of light. I don't take underwater photos, so I'd have trouble showing what I'm talking about, but it looks much better underwater with a ray of sunlight. Divers from Marseille and Iceland have photographed it extensively, but I think it's even better in person than in the photos.

The movement is a Seiko NH35, which is inexpensive and easy to find. That's not what makes the watch stand out. The case back, however, is unique. It depicts a diver discovering a Jules Verne book in a chest, all behind a sapphire crystal. The initial idea was to include a gold coin found in the ocean by Captain Nemo (to finance anti-colonial struggles). But that wasn't realistic given the limited budget (€400) and reasonable thickness (14.1mm). The result gives the impression of diving into this imaginary world.

The character of Nemo is complex. Jules Verne was inspired by a Polish nobleman whose family was ruthlessly massacred by Russian imperialist repression, and who now dedicates his solitary existence to revenge, relentlessly harassing the Russian fleet. His publisher, P.J. Hertzel, would later develop the character into a Native American devoted to exploring the oceans, financing the anti-colonial war, and waging war against the British fleet. Indeed, from today's perspective, this was a judicious choice in 1869; British decolonialism had been far more successful in the previous century and a half than Russian decolonialism, which was only just beginning. Nevertheless, Hertzel's position was not pro-Russian either. Just a few weeks after the publication of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, the Prussian War against France and the occupation of Alsace-Lorraine altered the perception of the world. The following year, in 1871, he identified the occupied territories and defeated France with Ukraine under Russian oppression, coinciding with the publication of Maroussia by the Ukrainian writer Marko Vovtchok, which he himself adapted into French. Maroussia was, in fact, a huge bestseller.

Captain Nemo, which means "nobody" in Latin, is nobody, just as Ulysses at the beginning of the Odyssey is nobody in the face of the Cyclops. Nemo literally means "not a man," "ne" being the prefix of negation and "hemo" an archaic form of "homo," meaning man. Captain Nemo is no longer a man because his pain, his anger at the mass murder he miraculously escaped, the imperialist repression that killed all his people without exception, means that he no longer has any connection with other men except those who have sworn him devotion and who form his crew. He is no longer a man, for he no longer wishes to live on land but underwater with the fish and marine mammals. He has become something indefinable, somewhere between monster and god; he can act malevolently, as in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, or benevolently, as in The Mysterious Island. In the 20th century, he would inspire the creation of superheroes like Captain Future or Captain Flam, or conversely, villains in the James Bond series. It's no coincidence that there are so many watch models named Nautilus.

The promise of creating a watch that evokes the world of Jules Verne without succumbing to Steampunk or mere marketing hype is fully fulfilled. The bronze case version is perhaps even more evocative, but I chose the steel version with the more classic Aegean blue dial. I added the rice grain strap, which suits it very well.

The hands are absolutely fantastic; they evoke the world of the Nautilus like no other. Of course, there is some difficulty in reading the minute hand in certain positions, which can be annoying and was corrected on subsequent watches (the Pilgrim and the Nemo), but this removes some of the charm of these Nautilus hands.

The music I would listen to with it would be Für Elise by Nautilus Pompilius https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTGGTLM05I4. The group's entire universe revolves around the ocean and its imagery. And Beethoven's Für Elise is an aspiration to the ideal, a love that is not of this world, and a universal work that absolutely everyone knows.

A romantic epic

<p dir="ltr">The Russian watch brand <strong>Raketa</strong>, founded in <strong>1961</strong>, has its roots in the Imperial Manufacture of Peterhof, established in 1721 by Tsar Peter the Great. This factory, located in Saint Petersburg, is the oldest in Russia still in operation. Initially specializing in cutting precious and semi-precious stones, it contributed to iconic works such as the 1924 Lenin Mausoleum and the Kremlin ruby ​​stars.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings of Watchmaking</h2>
<p dir="ltr">After the Second World War, the Petrodvorets factory diversified its activities by launching into watchmaking. In 1945, it began assembling watches under the brands Zvezda ("Star") and Pobeda ("Victory"), the latter celebrating the victory over Nazi Germany.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Birth of the Raketa Brand</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In 1961, in homage to the first manned space flight by Yuri Gagarin, the "Raketa" brand (<strong>which means "rocket" in Russian</strong>) was created. This initiative reflects the spirit of innovation and space conquest of the Soviet era.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Expansion et Production</h2>
<p dir="ltr">At the peak of its production, in the 1970s, the factory employed around 8,000 people and produced up to 5 million mechanical watches per year. These watches were intended for civilians as well as soldiers, cosmonauts, polar explorers and Olympic athletes.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Post-Soviet Challenges and Renaissance</h2>
<p dir="ltr">After the fall of the Soviet Union, Raketa went through a difficult period, but was able to revive itself by modernizing its facilities and collaborating with international experts. Today, the manufacture produces its own movements in-house, including hairsprings and escapements, which is rare in the global watch industry.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Iconic Models</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Among Raketa's emblematic models, we find the "<strong>Polar</strong>", designed for polar explorers with a 24-hour dial, and the "<strong>Ba&iuml;konur</strong>", dedicated to cosmonauts. Raketa is one of the few global watch brands to entirely produce its own mechanical movements. Its range includes models such as the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/raketa/baikonur"> Raketa Baikonur</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/raketa/avant-garde"> Raketa Avant-Garde</a> or even the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/raketa/polar"> Raketa Polar</a>.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Raketa watch cost?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The price of Raketa watches evolve and differ depending on the model. <strong>Most cost between 1,600 &euro; and 2,200 &euro; depending on the models and finishes</strong>. An Avant-Garde Raketa costs &euro;1,950, while a &ldquo;Sonar&rdquo; Raketa is priced at &euro;2,000. The second-hand and vintage markets are also an opportunity to find cheaper Soviet-era watches.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Raketa is owned by the Pobeda brand and produces around 7,000 watches per year, all models combined. To choose a Raketa that suits you best, <strong>Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews</strong> are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated November 2024)</p>

This Soviet watch appeared in the Raketa catalog in the mid-1970s and was nicknamed Jeans because of the resemblance of the texture of the dial in its blue color to these pants that were impossible to find in the USSR and therefore extremely desirable. But it also existed in brown and white. The watch is decorated with a Soviet quality mark that was affixed to each object whose qualities for the consumer exceeded anything available in the West (in any case, Soviet citizens were not allowed to make the comparison themselves and were very grateful that this quality mark was affixed). The 2609 NA mechanism did not particularly shine with the incomparable quality of its finish but its robustness and reliability were never questioned. If it says "shockproof" on the back, it is in fact "indestructible" that people read given the reputation of this movement. This watch is quite emblematic of what the Petrodvorets factory could produce in the 1970s, which stood out from other Soviet factories. Wearing it almost 50 years later on a contemporary leather strap is very pleasant. The ticking sound on 18,000 A/h is slow compared to today's calibers and less stressful. It is light and discreet (35mm in diameter) and recalls the great era of the Petrodvorets watch factory. The brown color is perfect for summer and tanned skin.

A summery and tanned watch

<p>La marque <strong>Auricoste</strong> a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en <strong>1854</strong> par Emile Thomas &agrave; Paris, en France. Sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;e dans le domaine des chronom&egrave;tres de marine, le fondateur a c&eacute;d&eacute; l'entreprise en 1889 &agrave; Joseph Auricoste qui a renomm&eacute; la marque &agrave; son nom. La marque est connue pour avoir remport&eacute; une m&eacute;daille d'or &agrave; l'Exposition Universelle de Paris en 1900. Au cours de son existence, elle a fabriqu&eacute; des montres pour l'arm&eacute;e et la marine fran&ccedil;aise, ainsi que pour un usage civil.</p>
<p>En 1966, elle a &eacute;galement con&ccedil;u des horloges et chronom&egrave;tres de marine &eacute;lectrom&eacute;caniques en collaboration avec la soci&eacute;t&eacute; Patek Philippe pour la flotte navale fran&ccedil;aise. La gamme comprend des mod&egrave;les tels que la <a title="Page Auricoste Type 20" href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/type_20">Auricoste Type 20</a>, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale">Auricoste Type 26 A&eacute;ronavale</a>, la Auricoste Flymaster Type 20, la <a title="Page Auricoste Spirotechnique" href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/spirotechnique">Auricoste Spirotechnique</a> et la <a title="Page Auricoste ScubaMaster" href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/scubamaster">Auricoste ScubaMaster</a>.</p>
<h2>Quel est le prix d'une montre Auricoste ?</h2>
<p>Les prix des montres Auricoste neuves diff&eacute;rents selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre 1,650 &euro; pour une <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale/acier">Auricoste Type 26 A&eacute;ronavale Acier</a> et 3,450 &euro; pour une Auricoste Flymaster. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Auricoste r&eacute;cente moins ch&egrave;re. Les mod&egrave;les Auricoste Vintage sont plus difficile &agrave; trouver et surtout beaucoup plus ch&egrave;res lorsqu'elles sont en tr&egrave;s bon &eacute;tat. Comptez entre 6,000 &euro; et 8,000 &euro; minimum pour une Auricoste Type 20 Militaire vendue par un sp&eacute;cialiste du vintage.</p>
<h2>Auricoste : L'horloger de la Marine</h2>
<p><strong>Auricoste</strong> est une marque ind&eacute;pendante et familiale d&eacute;tenue par Monsieur Claude Tordjman et produit plusieurs centaines de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une Auricoste qui vous correspond le mieux, les <strong>avis clients Dialicious</strong> sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.</p>
<p>(Mise &agrave; jour Avril 2024)</p>

<p dir="ltr">The <strong>brand Auricoste</strong> was created in <strong>1854</strong> by Emile Thomas in Paris, France. Specializing in the field of marine chronometers, the founder sold the company in 1889 to Joseph Auricoste who renamed the brand in his name. The brand is known for winning a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900. During its existence, it manufactured watches for the French army and navy, as well as for civilian use.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In 1966, it also designed electromechanical marine clocks and chronometers in collaboration with the Patek Philippe company for the French naval fleet. The range includes models such as the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/type_20">Auricoste Type 20</a>, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale">Auricoste Type 26 A&eacute;ronavale</a>, the Auricoste Flymaster Type 20, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/spirotechnique"> Auricoste Spirotechnique</a> and the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/scubamaster">Auricoste ScubaMaster</a>.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Auricoste watch cost?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The prices of new Auricoste watches vary depending on the model. Most cost between &euro;1,650 for one <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale/acier">Auricoste Type 26 Naval Aviation Steel</a> and &euro;3,450 for an Auricoste Flymaster. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a recent Auricoste less expensive. Auricoste Vintage models are more difficult to find and above all much more expensive when they are in very good condition. Expect between &euro;6,000 and &euro;8,000 minimum for an Auricoste Type 20 Military sold by a vintage specialist.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Auricoste: The French Navy watchmaker</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Auricoste is an independent and family brand owned by Mr. Claude Tordjman and produces several hundreds watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Auricoste that best suits you, the <strong>Dialicious owners' reviews </strong>are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated April 2024)</p>
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