4.8
90
Published on 4/9/2026 - Last modified on 4/9/2026
Initially, I wasn't particularly a fan of Omega, and even less so of the Seamaster. So how did I end up buying one? It was the result of a search based on certain specific criteria. After exploring the world of watchmaking through various complications, I was looking for a very precise three-hand watch with a date function. Based on this last criterion, my initial choice was a Grand Seiko SBGA211 with its Spring Drive movement (see article). However, despite its extreme precision, it didn't quite work its magic. I wanted a watch with more character, a bit more fun, from a Swiss watchmaker, for everyday wear, with several original straps and a rotating bezel because I like to play with something on my watch. I wasn't specifically looking for a diver's watch, but obviously the criteria I mentioned led me to this type. Then, as I refined my search, my interest was drawn to this magnificent Seamaster Professional Diver 300M. Generally speaking, I find it strikes a perfect balance between a watch that's too serious (like a Rolex Submariner) and one that's too playful (like a Mido Ocean Star). It has just the right amount of fun to evoke emotion in the wearer. And after having explored the world of watchmaking quite a bit, it had been a long time since I'd felt this much pleasure. In my opinion, luxury shouldn't be about showing off, and I appreciate the unapologetic diver's character of this tool watch. The story of this model begins in 1948, when Omega launched the Seamaster line for the company's 100th anniversary. Then, in 1957, the first Seamaster "Professional," resistant to extreme pressures, appeared. Finally, in 1993, the new Seamaster 300M model was equipped with a helium escape valve and became James Bond's official watch. So yes, I'm a fan of the British spy and of this valve. Some people hate it for its asymmetrical design, but I think this distinctive feature is, in a way, its signature, making it easily recognizable from afar. Of course, it serves no purpose for 99.99% of people. But for my inner child, it's a secret mechanism housing a remote-controlled mine detonator, just like in GoldenEye. Unlike a Submariner, which aims for simplicity and efficiency, the Seamaster's design is more complex and requires a deeper appreciation. Its case is made of stainless steel and alternates between brushed and mirror finishes. Relatively rare for a dive watch, its particularly refined architecture stands out, with beautiful curves, especially at the lugs, typical of Omega, with their "twisted" effect. I was worried that the advertised 42mm would be a bit too large for my small wrist. However, with its rather short lugs (50mm lug to lug) that slope downwards, it's not actually that big. Secondly, the beveled case design visually slims it down. I don't get the "bulky" feeling I get, for example, with my 41mm Tudor Blackbay GMT (see article). The white ceramic dial offers considerable depth with its famous wave pattern (first appearing on the model in 1989), which is here laser-etched, as are its relatively thick applied hour markers. The fact that they are outlined in black creates a striking contrast. Furthermore, the red "Seamaster" inscription and the tip of the seconds hand add a subtle touch of vibrancy. At 6 o'clock, a faceted date window lends the whole piece perfect symmetry. Just above are the inscriptions “Co-axial Master Chronometer 300m / 1000ft.” Above that is engraved the formula “ZrO2,” which corresponds to zirconium oxide, the alloy used for this ceramic. The scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating on both sides, giving the impression that there is no glass and that you can touch the dial directly. I like the fact that this anti-reflective coating, along with the depth of the ceramic dial, produces different reflections depending on the light. Initially, I wasn't a big fan of the skeletonized hands, but they give it its recognizable style and allow you to read the date when the minute hand is on them. Polished and blackened, they are coated with blue Super-LumiNova, except for the minute hand and the marker on the bezel, which are green. The unidirectional bezel is made of ceramic, a material that first appeared in the manufacture in 1989, and which has the distinction of being scratch-resistant. It features a white enamel diving scale adjustable to 120 clicks, meaning it can be set to half-minute increments. Unlike the Submariner, it isn't toothed but has oval chamfers. Some don't like this; it's true that it offers less grip, but it's more aesthetically pleasing. Quite unusually for a dive watch, Omega offers an open case back, allowing us to admire the magnificent caliber 8800, decorated with a Côtes de Genève pattern (originally designed to trap dust). This automatic movement with a Co-Axial escapement is a Master Chronometer certified by METAS. Going beyond COSC, it attests to an accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss (useful Today, with all the electronic devices that can potentially interfere with our watches, it's a common problem. I bought it with its original black rubber strap and pin buckle. Unfortunately, the deployant clasp isn't offered on the original models, so you have to buy the entire strap separately, which I did anyway. Despite this drawback, I find this system very practical. Unlike other brands where, even with a deployant clasp, you still have to slide the rest of the strap into a buckle, here a simple click is all it takes. The unused portion of the strap is tucked away underneath the main strap. So, on top, you have a completely smooth strap, without any holes. The downside is a slight extra thickness and the unused portion of the strap can move around a bit underneath. Also, for summer days, I bought a NATO strap, the kind James Bond wore. In conclusion, I'd say it's a watch you have to learn to love. For me, it's a success because I want to wear it all the time. I love its fun and stylish look. Adventurous, as well as the numerous original straps offered. As for drawbacks, I would have initially mentioned its diameter and hands. But as I explained, its diameter isn't that large, and its skeleton hands have the advantage of allowing the date to be read. So yes, I highly recommend this watch. Specs: Diameter: 42 mm Lug to lug: 48 mm Thickness: 13.5 mm Power reserve: 55 hours Year: 2023 Ref: 210.32.42.20.04.001 Caliber: 8800 Co-axial Master Chronometer (METAS) Water resistance: 30 ATM
Fabrice Genève own this watch for less than 1 year
4.8
5.0
Emotion
5.0
Design
5.0
Accuracy
5.0
Comfort
5.0
Robustness
4.0
Value for money
Secondary
Significance in a collection
Main
Rarely
Frequency to be worn
Often
Pleasure
Main motivation for buying
Investment
Fun
Co-axial
Several original bracelets
Diameter
Skeleton hands
This review is the subjective opinion of a Dialicious community member and not of Achille SAS or its teams
The order of partners is random and does not assume available stocks or sales prices of watches. Dialicious and Achille SAS are in no way responsible for the services of these partners but may potentially be paid by them to be displayed on this page.
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The order of partners is random. Dialicious and Achille SAS are in no way responsible for the services of these partners, but may potentially be paid by them to be featured on this page.
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