Olivier Jonquet - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Olivier Jonquet is a French watch brand founded in 2013 by Olivier Jonquet; the house first gained attention with a subscription model built around a restored French historical movement, then shaped a small range of cushion-case watches with clean dials and restrained finishing, with a workshop set up in Provence since 2020, limited runs, and predominantly direct sales to collectors.

A 1910s–1920s-inspired cushion language and a clear readout

The brand’s hallmark design centres on softly squared cushion cases, thin bezels and integrated lugs to free up a wide reading disc and let the typography breathe; this consciously connects to early wristwatches from the 1910s–1920s while aiming for contemporary presence, and the stated intent is to prioritise legibility and day-to-day ease over decorative one-upmanship.

Dials often use white enamel with black numerals or very crisp matte finishes, paired with elongated “OJ” hands, sometimes heat-blued; visual contrast is deliberately high so it works in natural light and under artificial lighting alike, and the hierarchy of information—central hours/minutes and a small seconds when present—supports glance reading.

The house vocabulary stays “plain spoken”: simple, well-gripped crowns, a box-profile sapphire up top, and an exhibition back that makes the mechanical heart easy to recognise; the result is a characterful watch that remains easy to wear, and this deliberate sobriety is the common thread from the earliest runs to more recent references.

Families and models: Elie, Capitaine, Marine/Capitaine Navy and Carrosse

The journey starts with the 2014 subscription watch, conceived as a manifesto uniting French artisans and a serviced period movement; it set the codes of compact cushions, pared-back dials and small-batch production, and it also anchored a direct creator-to-subscriber relationship that still shapes how the brand operates.

• Olivier Jonquet Elie — limited run (around 50 units), ~38 mm cushion case, white enamel dial with black numerals, small seconds, serviced France Ébauches calibre; a launch-era statement “entirely made in France.”
• Olivier Jonquet Capitaine — 43.5 × 43.5 mm line, white enamel dial, manual ETA/Unitas 6498-1 “top finition,” box sapphire and sapphire back; polished steel or black-coated executions.
• Olivier Jonquet Marine Capitaine (aka “Capitaine Navy”) — nautical-accent variant in numbered limited editions (communicated up to 200 units depending on version), same technical base as Capitaine.
• Olivier Jonquet Carrosse — dressier variation on the cushion theme with manual 6498-1, produced in short, confidential series.

This layout maps to three straightforward use cases: the compact manifesto with Olivier Jonquet Elie, the ample, highly legible “city watch” with Capitaine/Marine Capitaine, and the more ceremonial Carrosse—each expressing the same language through choices of size, dial and finishing.

Workshop in Provence since 2020, short chain and readable components

Since 2020, assembly takes place in a Provence workshop, streamlining fine-tuning, parts traceability and service; the house claims a local anchor while relying, where relevant, on European partners (current Swiss movements, supplies), and this hybrid setup seeks daily reliability without losing a recognisable atelier touch.

The technical recipe remains purposefully simple: a large-plate hand-wound movement (6498-1 “top finition”) for Capitaine/Carrosse, box sapphire above the dial and a flat sapphire caseback, with 3 ATM water resistance stated on Capitaine references; the intent is to expose the mechanics cleanly rather than over-complicate them, and servicing is thereby straightforward for a competent watchmaker.

Straps range from smooth leathers to “ammo” pieces cut from vintage 1970s military pouches, custom-made to order; customisation spans case finishing, hands and at times the dial, offering sensible room for expression, and the goal is to tailor on-wrist presence without losing the brand’s core identity.

Positioning, prices and channels: subscription, direct sales and “serious accessible”

Historically, the house began with a 2014 subscription before shifting to direct sales via its website and editorial partners; runs tend to be numbered, annual volumes are not published, and the buyer-to-atelier relationship remains a central marker of the experience.

Press-reported price brackets at launch time placed the Capitaine line between ~€1,825 and ~€1,992 (2016–2017), with a 2019 UK outlet quoting around €1,890; in the absence of a current, exhaustive price list, today’s public pricing is “not disclosed,” and the sensible route is to lean on the latest official mentions or contact the workshop directly.

Sizes, ergonomics and wear: square 43.5 mm vs compact 38 mm

The Capitaine/Marine Capitaine line is defined by a 43.5 × 43.5 mm format with softened corners and 24 mm lugs; on an average wrist, the watch “sits” with presence without egregious overhang, and the box sapphire and comparatively lean mid-case temper perceived thickness.

Conversely, Olivier Jonquet Elie at ~38 mm offers a compact alternative close to period sizes, with a very calm readout and light mass; for daily wear, the two options differ more in visual presence than mechanical complexity, and the choice is best settled in front of a mirror and then on the wrist, in natural light.

Selection guide: dial, material, context and care

Start with dial mood: white enamel with black numerals maximises contrast and ages slowly, while darker matte finishes create stronger graphic presence; in all cases, verify one-metre glance legibility and hand-to-dial coherence, and keep the version you “forget” fastest in real use.

Material-wise, polished steel brings shine and leans dressy, whereas a dark, matte treatment tightens the silhouette and tames reflections; 24 mm lugs welcome thicker leathers or textured straps, and a quick strap change lets you swing from desk to weekend without fuss.

On care, a hand-wound 6498-1 is easy for a capable watchmaker to service; respect the water-resistance guidance (3 ATM is not for swimming), avoid lateral shocks while winding and schedule a check if autonomy drops, and a needs-based approach beats an arbitrary calendar.

Conclusion

Olivier Jonquet appeals to enthusiasts seeking a readable, well-drawn watch with a simple, liveable mechanical heart—and a dash of soul from the early subscription path and the Provençal workshop. The cushion language ensures a clear signature, white enamel and OJ hands cement identity, and the 6498-1 base promises long-term serviceability. Between the compact Elie and the more assertive Capitaine, the call comes down to wrist presence and intended use. To back these impressions with longer-term ownership feedback, a practical compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.

(Updated August 2025)