The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

An integrated-bracelet sports watch is nothing new, and sometimes when you take inspiration from different places for different parts of a watch, the resulting piece isn't as homogenous, well-proportioned, or stylish as the individual components were. That's not the case with the Aikon Venturer GMT - it's a great melding of different design cues into a harmonious whole. The cream sunburst dial is beautiful, as is the contrast with the black elements of the piece (the applied indices, hands, bezel, strap - and even the date wheel, which I simply love). There is a lot of good attention to detail on display, from the black date disk to the small logo on the outside of the strap. While I'm not typically gung-ho about rubber straps, this is one of the best-executed straps in my collection.

A unique take on a classic design

This was my first (and not my last) Maurice Lacroix watch. Not only does it hit all the high marks for me with respect to the high-contrast (black and white/silver) colorway, the GMT accents, and the overall aesthetic, it's one of the few dress watches I consistently look forward to wearing. The attention to detail on the case, the small "m" logo on the strap, and the dimensionality / depth of the dial within the case - everything comes together to create a pleasing and complete timepiece. At 40mm in diameter and 12mm thick, it's not as svelte as some dress watches, but it easily slips under a shirt cuff and works for me. Your mileage may vary! :-)

An underapprecciated beauty

Nivada Grenchen is a brand that has interested me for a long time, but I was less enthusiastic about some of their more classical designs. When I saw this sandwich dial variant of the Aquamar, it scratched that "doesn't look like everything else" itch that drives so many of my watch purchases! :-)
The watch itself is *very* well put together. The bi-directional bezel is not to my taste, but that's a matter of preference. I like the restraint, the overall proportions of the watch (38mm does not wear small - it feels perfectly proportioned on the wrist). The hands are beautifully finished, the caseback is refined, and the overall aesthetic is pleasing. My only gripe is with the hour markers - the cutouts on the dial are too small for the lume to really shine. Either the cutouts should've been slightly wider or they should've used better lume. Again, the photos do not reflect just how poor the lume is in real life - the watch is barely legible.

Beautiful dial, hands, & idea, but poor hour markers!

I've wanted this limited edition for a long time, especially in with the smoke-grey dial. So when I finally found one on sale, I snapped it up. The dial does not disappoint in-person, I do love the colorway and the grey leather strap. However, the watch overall is a disappointment, for 2 reasons.
1) Normally I prefer watches right around ~41mm for my wrist. This watch, even though it is nominally 42, wears much bigger - even though it is quite svelte at only 13.9mm thick. I cannot account for this: the case is thin enough, the lugs are curved, and it still isn't comfortable. I was quite surprised by this, especially as I have a much thicker Panerai 42mm that wears much better - even on a NATO strap!
2) The lume is poor. I included an image that makes the lume appear *significantly* better than it is. In real life, it is so faint as to be almost illegible. This is a crying shame on such a watch, with so much space for lume.

Beautiful dial and colorway, should be 40mm!

While it's no MB&F, this skeletonized watch with curved (mineral) glass and curved numerals and indices is still a pleasure to behold on the wrist! Even though it's tall, it sits snugly against my wrist, and the rubber strap is one of the most supple I've ever worn. While the display caseback isn't really to my taste for an undecorated movement, it is very interesting to see how deep into the case the movement is placed - it is quite close to the surface of the top crystal, so the appearance is not just due to magnification effects. Overall, a quirky watch for special occasions!

A transparent UFO on the wrist

As a collector and former engineer, I love asymmetry and innovative or unusual designs. So when I first saw Ressence, I knew I had to have one. In 2023, a Type One came up at auction, and I managed to win it for a reasonable price. It's one of the most visually impressive pieces of engineering that I've ever worn on my wrist.
The dial, of course, is what steals the show. Strictly speaking, the display is not an entirely new way of organizing time: it is analogous to a regulator, with separate indicators for hours, minutes, and running seconds rather than traditional, co-axial hands. Ressence’s achievement is in making that familiar concept feel completely unfamiliar: the whole dial is a kinetic surface, with time rotating around the watch face.

Watching time on this “orbital” display reminds me of a tiny solar system, or of the Earth slowly rotating on its (slightly off-center) axis. A true joy!

Although it was listed as a Type 1S, the watch appears to be an early production Type One. The rotor is engraved with “Ressence Antwerp Type One 006,” and the entire transparent caseback is turned in order to set the time (unlike later versions with the pull-out lever).

The watch is 13.2mm thick and is well-proportioned to its 42mm case. It wears smaller than its dimensions, thanks to its curved lugs, and the titanium construction keeps the weight at only 75g. The strap is a comfortable blend of leather backing and a textured textile, the clasp is solid, and the lume is great – you’d not think it was so well lumed from the dial and its colors.

While I really enjoy this watch, there are a few minor issues. The crownless design and incredibly smooth surfaces all around, while visually pure, also make setting the time more difficult than it could be. A subtle texture integrated into the edge of the caseback would’ve made it easier to grip without detracting from the aesthetic. This is almost certainly why later models adopted that aforementioned folding lever for winding and setting.

The caseback was also an issue for which I had to have the watch serviced: the time would shift while on the wrist! To their credit, Ressence repaired the watch for free (via Bucherer no less), no questions asked.

The lightness of the watch is also a double-edged sword. On the wrist it feels elegant and almost effortless, but in the hand the tactile experience lacks the reassuring density one expects from a five-figure mechanical watch.
Compounding that impression, the case makes a hollow rattling sound when shaken. Nothing appears to be wrong, but one consequence of such a light construction is that it can make the watch feel less substantial in the hand than its price would suggest.

Then again, for decades collectors have lived with (and many love) the “Rolex rattle,” so it’s not a deal-breaker, just an observation. 

The brushed surfaces of the champagne dial have a surprising amount of contrast to them, even in quite bright light, but because of the reflective surfaces, it’s nearly illegible in direct sunlight. It also takes a bit of time getting used to orienting the watch the right way up on the wrist.

Overall, though, I love this watch. It is wonderfully minimalist, innovative, and comfortable to wear. It isn’t the most practical mechanical watch ever made, but few watches genuinely challenge our assumptions about how time can be displayed. The Type One does exactly that, and more than a decade after its introduction it still feels different to anything else on the market—a rare achievement in modern watchmaking.

Ressence: a futuristic re-imaging of a regulator

Maurice Lacroix, founded in 1975 in Saignel&eacute;gier (Switzerland) within the Desco von Schulthess group, grew around in-house case manufacturing and an &ldquo;accessible luxury&rdquo; stance. The brand targets urban wearers who value readability, careful execution and distinctive technical signatures such as the &ldquo;square wheel&rdquo; display in the Masterpiece line.
<h3>From Saignel&eacute;gier to city streets: integrated cases and standout dials</h3>
The visual language blends contemporary sport-chic (integrated bracelets, brushed/polished facets) with staged technical dials (skeletons, &ldquo;Square Wheel&rdquo;), all with daily comfort and legibility in mind; the look is urban and modern while embracing clearly identifiable horological choices.
<h3>Aikon, Pontos, Masterpiece, Eliros &amp; Fiaba: the line-up at a glance</h3>
The catalogue is organised by straightforward families, from daily drivers to more demonstrative pieces; the goal is a clean use-based choice without needless complexity.
<ul>
<li>Maurice Lacroix Aikon &mdash; integrated-bracelet sport-chic (automatic and quartz), broad sizes and finishes; the Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide uses upcycled ocean-bound plastic for vivid colours and light weight.</li>
<li>Maurice Lacroix Pontos &mdash; contemporary dress-leaning line (three-hand, Day-Date, Chronograph) with balanced proportions and textured dials.</li>
<li>Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel &mdash; seconds displayed by a visible square wheel with a clover wheel; Squelette and &ldquo;Gravity&rdquo; variants deliver a more technical stage.</li>
<li>Maurice Lacroix Eliros &mdash; elegant entry line (three-hand, chronograph) with pared-back dials.</li>
<li>Maurice Lacroix Fiaba &mdash; ladies&rsquo; range with compact sizes and pearl/diamond options depending on references.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Positioning, manufacturing and reach (DKSH)</h3>
Aikon/Eliros typically range around CHF 1,000&ndash;3,500 depending on versions, while Masterpiece sits appreciably higher (&asymp; CHF/USD 6,500&ndash;8,500 seen on some references); manufacturing is rooted in Saignel&eacute;gier and distribution combines a global retail network with the e-shop, with DKSH holding a majority stake since 2011.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Maurice Lacroix suits those seeking a readable, contemporary watch: Aikon for integrated sport-chic, Pontos for refined daily wear, Masterpiece for stronger technical presence, and Eliros/Fiaba for understated appeal. Decide based on comfort, dial expression and budget, with options from quartz to automatic and more elaborate series. To validate your pick with real-world experience, rely on Dialicious customer reviews.
(Updated August 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs est une maison horlog&egrave;re suisse fond&eacute;e en 1956 &agrave; Zurich par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs ; d&rsquo;abord d&eacute;taillant puis acteur de la vente par correspondance, le duo a b&acirc;ti sa r&eacute;putation sur des montres &laquo; tool &raquo; robustes &mdash; plongeuses, militaires, d&rsquo;aviation &mdash; vendues aux particuliers comme aux forces arm&eacute;es, avant d&rsquo;orchestrer un retour au premier plan au cours des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec une gamme contemporaine qui r&eacute;active les signatures historiques.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse et la vente par correspondance&thinsp;: les d&eacute;buts d&rsquo;un label outil</h3>
D&egrave;s l&rsquo;ouverture de leur petite boutique zurichoise, les fondateurs s&rsquo;attachent &agrave; proposer des montres fiables &agrave; prix tenu, puis &eacute;tendent rapidement l&rsquo;activit&eacute; vers le courrier et les annonces sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;es, et cette distribution directe fa&ccedil;on &laquo; mail-order &raquo; deviendra l&rsquo;un des marqueurs durables de la marque.&nbsp;Le basculement d&rsquo;un r&ocirc;le de d&eacute;taillant vers la cr&eacute;ation de montres sous leur propre nom s&rsquo;op&egrave;re en quelques ann&eacute;es, avec des lignes d&eacute;di&eacute;es aux usages concrets (terrain, mer, cockpit) et une construction volontairement simple et r&eacute;parable, et l&rsquo;obsession est moins la &laquo; complication &raquo; que l&rsquo;endurance et la lisibilit&eacute;.
Dans les ann&eacute;es 1960, la diffusion s&rsquo;&eacute;tend aux bases am&eacute;ricaines et aux PX, o&ugrave; des montres militaires et de plong&eacute;e sign&eacute;es O&amp;W trouvent un public pr&ecirc;t &agrave; les &eacute;prouver en conditions r&eacute;elles, et cette validation par l&rsquo;usage contribue &agrave; installer l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;un outil professionnel abordable.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: la profondeur, la d&eacute;compression et l&rsquo;imaginaire des grandes eaux</h3>
Au milieu des sixties, la maison se distingue par des plongeuses d&rsquo;avant-garde dont la Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, pi&egrave;ce record annonc&eacute;e pour 1000 m qui cristallise l&rsquo;ambition technique de l&rsquo;&eacute;poque et installe le nom O&amp;W dans le paysage de la plong&eacute;e sportive comme professionnelle, et l&rsquo;association avec des partenaires sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s nourrit une esth&eacute;tique rationnelle et sans fioritures.
Dans la m&ecirc;me veine, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph introduit une lunette et une logique de lecture con&ccedil;ues pour accompagner la mont&eacute;e du plongeur et les paliers de d&eacute;compression, ancrant la montre dans un usage pr&eacute;cis plut&ocirc;t que dans l&rsquo;&eacute;vocation d&eacute;corative de la mer, et le cadran reste clair pour pr&eacute;server l&rsquo;instantan&eacute;it&eacute; de la lecture sous l&rsquo;eau.
Ces r&eacute;f&eacute;rences historiques, souvent cit&eacute;es et collectionn&eacute;es aujourd&rsquo;hui, ont fa&ccedil;onn&eacute; un langage fait de bo&icirc;tiers costauds, d&rsquo;&eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s s&eacute;rieuses, de bracelets adapt&eacute;s et de typographies contrast&eacute;es qui affleurent encore dans les mod&egrave;les actuels, et c&rsquo;est cette continuit&eacute; de &laquo; montre-outil &raquo; qui permet de relier le pass&eacute; et le pr&eacute;sent.
<h3>Relance contemporaine, ancrage helv&eacute;tique et cha&icirc;ne courte&thinsp;: le retour d&rsquo;O&amp;W</h3>
Apr&egrave;s avoir travers&eacute; la p&eacute;riode quartz et ralenti la cadence, la marque est reprise par Charles Le Menestrel et relanc&eacute;e &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec la volont&eacute; explicite de prolonger l&rsquo;esprit des origines plut&ocirc;t que de s&rsquo;&eacute;parpiller en s&eacute;ries cosm&eacute;tiques, et&nbsp;le bureau de cr&eacute;ation reste &agrave; Zurich tandis que l&rsquo;assemblage et les r&eacute;glages s&rsquo;effectuent dans le Jura suisse.
La d&eacute;marche privil&eacute;gie des mouvements automatiques suisses &eacute;prouv&eacute;s, une architecture de bo&icirc;te simple &agrave; entretenir, des &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s cr&eacute;dibles et des bracelets &agrave; la fois robustes et faciles &agrave; vivre au quotidien, et le cahier des charges reprend la triade historique : fiabilit&eacute;, lisibilit&eacute;, r&eacute;parabilit&eacute;.
La relance ne se contente pas de &laquo; r&eacute;&eacute;ditions &raquo; au millim&egrave;tre : elle propose des montres nouvelles inspir&eacute;es des usages historiques, rehausse le soin apport&eacute; aux finitions et met en avant un contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; par &eacute;tapes, et le r&eacute;sultat vise une modernit&eacute; pragmatique qui &eacute;vite le pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: familles actuelles et usages concrets</h3>
Les premi&egrave;res r&eacute;f&eacute;rences de l&rsquo;&egrave;re r&eacute;cente prennent la forme de montres d&rsquo;aviation &agrave; taille contenue, Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, qui relecturent les codes cockpit dans une bo&icirc;te polyvalente autour de 39&ndash;40 mm avec saphir et couronne viss&eacute;e, et elles ciblent une lecture instrumentale et une r&eacute;sistance suffisante pour le quotidien.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; plong&eacute;e, la maison propose aujourd&rsquo;hui la Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (ainsi que des &eacute;ditions anniversaires) comme incarnation contemporaine de l&rsquo;esprit Caribbean : valves, joints, fonds viss&eacute;s et traitements soign&eacute;s s&rsquo;additionnent pour offrir un instrument de mer moderne, et le cadran conserve l&rsquo;intelligibilit&eacute; qui a fait la r&eacute;putation de la lign&eacute;e.
En parall&egrave;le, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph revient sous une forme actualis&eacute;e, avec sa logique de lecture li&eacute;e &agrave; la d&eacute;compression qui en fait une plongeuse de caract&egrave;re imm&eacute;diatement reconnaissable au poignet, et cette signature d&rsquo;usage distingue le mod&egrave;le dans un segment satur&eacute;.
La famille Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron s&rsquo;adresse &agrave; celles et ceux qui veulent un chronographe &laquo; outil &raquo; lisible, fid&egrave;le &agrave; l&rsquo;esprit O&amp;W sans exc&egrave;s de complexit&eacute;, avec une ergonomie de poussoirs travaill&eacute;e et une &eacute;chelle claire pour structurer le temps court, et le dessin reste volontairement pratique plut&ocirc;t que d&eacute;monstratif.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; pilote contemporain, diam&egrave;tre contenu, saphir, r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau &eacute;lev&eacute;e, cadran tr&egrave;s lisible, usage &laquo; bureau-terrain &raquo;.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; variante d&rsquo;aviation avec autre signature de lunette et de marquages, m&ecirc;me esprit robuste.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; plongeuse moderne inspir&eacute;e de la Caribbean, &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute; pouss&eacute;e et lecture directe.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; plongeuse instrumentale &agrave; logique de d&eacute;compression, identit&eacute; forte au poignet.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; chronographe &laquo; tool &raquo;, cadran a&eacute;r&eacute; et poussoirs francs, lisibilit&eacute; du temps court.</li>
</ul>
Au-del&agrave; des noms, l&rsquo;important est l&rsquo;usage : pilote pour la lisibilit&eacute; &agrave; plat et la r&eacute;sistance aux chocs de la vie active, plongeuse pour l&rsquo;eau et la robustesse, chronographe pour rythmer les t&acirc;ches et les entra&icirc;nements, et ce d&eacute;coupage aide &agrave; choisir une O&amp;W en fonction d&rsquo;un sc&eacute;nario r&eacute;el plut&ocirc;t que d&rsquo;un simple style.
<h3>Signature &laquo; tool watch &raquo;&thinsp;: mat&eacute;riaux, mouvements, dimensions et bracelets</h3>
Les bo&icirc;tiers actuels privil&eacute;gient l&rsquo;acier, des traitements de surface sobres, des lunettes fonctionnelles et des glaces saphir, avec des diam&egrave;tres g&eacute;n&eacute;ralement compris entre 39 et 42 mm pour pr&eacute;server la polyvalence au quotidien, et le port&eacute; se veut stable gr&acirc;ce &agrave; des cornes ma&icirc;tris&eacute;es et des bracelets ajust&eacute;s.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; motorisation, la marque recourt &agrave; des automatiques suisses contemporains adapt&eacute;s &agrave; l&rsquo;usage intensif, certains r&eacute;gl&eacute;s ou certifi&eacute;s selon versions, et l&rsquo;accent est mis sur la facilit&eacute; d&rsquo;entretien par un horloger comp&eacute;tent partout dans le monde, et cette pragmatique m&eacute;canique refl&egrave;te la vocation utilitaire des montres.
Les bracelets &mdash; acier, textile de type RAF/NATO ou caoutchouc &mdash; sont choisis pour leur s&eacute;curit&eacute;, leur r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau et leur confort, tandis que les boucles et end-links sont travaill&eacute;s pour limiter les points durs, et la modularit&eacute; permet d&rsquo;adapter la m&ecirc;me montre &agrave; des contextes tr&egrave;s diff&eacute;rents.
<h3>Positionnement, prix, distribution et profils d&rsquo;acheteurs</h3>
O&amp;W occupe aujourd&rsquo;hui un segment &laquo; outil de qualit&eacute; &raquo; : finitions soign&eacute;es mais sans ostentation, fiches techniques coh&eacute;rentes, contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; serr&eacute; et communication ax&eacute;e sur l&rsquo;usage plut&ocirc;t que sur le prestige, et le rapport contenu/prix vise la cr&eacute;dibilit&eacute; d&rsquo;un instrument plut&ocirc;t que la posture luxueuse.&nbsp;La distribution m&ecirc;le vente directe en ligne et r&eacute;seau restreint de partenaires, comme <a href="https://bit.ly/4igLuis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Horel</a> &agrave; Bordeaux (France) ou <a href="https://bit.ly/4p27od0" target="_blank" rel="noopener">La Vitrine Horlog&egrave;re</a> en Belgique, avec un discours p&eacute;dagogique sur l&rsquo;h&eacute;ritage et les usages, et&nbsp;ce canal court facilite la coh&eacute;rence tarifaire et la relation avec l&rsquo;atelier.
Le public typique r&eacute;unit des amateurs de montres &laquo; &agrave; faire &raquo; plut&ocirc;t qu&rsquo;&laquo; &agrave; montrer &raquo;, des plongeurs loisirs, des voyageurs qui appr&eacute;cient la solidit&eacute; et des utilisateurs professionnels qui veulent un objet fiable et r&eacute;parable, et la marque parle &agrave; celles et ceux qui pr&eacute;f&egrave;rent la preuve par le port&eacute;.
<h3>Guide de choix&thinsp;: sc&eacute;nario d&rsquo;usage, lisibilit&eacute; et ergonomie</h3>
Commencez par d&eacute;finir l&rsquo;environnement principal : eau, cockpit, bureau-terrain ou sport chronom&eacute;tr&eacute; ; si l&rsquo;eau domine, une Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 ou une Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph seront naturelles, tandis que P-101/P-104 conviendront aux lectures rapides et aux cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s, et le chronographe Navichron servira aux temps courts et aux routines fractionn&eacute;es.
Validez ensuite la lisibilit&eacute; : contraste aiguilles/fond, taille des index, absence de surcharge, visibilit&eacute; de la minuterie et coh&eacute;rence de la lunette avec l&rsquo;usage r&eacute;el, et faites le test &laquo; un m&egrave;tre/un coup d&rsquo;&oelig;il &raquo; en lumi&egrave;re naturelle avant d&rsquo;arr&ecirc;ter votre choix.
Enfin, essayez la montre pour jauger l&rsquo;assise (corne-&agrave;-corne), la couronne dans la paume, la souplesse du bracelet et le tomb&eacute; g&eacute;n&eacute;ral avec vos manches et vos activit&eacute;s, et gardez la version que vous oubliez le plus vite une fois port&eacute;e.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs demeure identifiable par sa vocation d&rsquo;outil : des montres pens&eacute;es pour l&rsquo;usage, lisibles, robustes et suivies par une cha&icirc;ne suisse claire. Entre plongeuses h&eacute;riti&egrave;res de la Caribbean, pilotes modernes et chronographes de travail, la gamme s&rsquo;articule simplement autour de sc&eacute;narios r&eacute;els. Pour d&eacute;cider, partez de votre terrain d&rsquo;emploi, testez lisibilit&eacute; et confort, puis ajustez mati&egrave;re et bracelet ; vous obtiendrez un instrument pertinent qui vieillit bien. Pour croiser ces rep&egrave;res avec des retours d&rsquo;exp&eacute;rience, appuyez-vous sur les avis clients Dialicious.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs is a Swiss watch company founded in 1956 in Zurich by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs; initially a retailer and then a mail-order operator, the duo built a reputation on robust tool watches&mdash;divers, military pieces and pilot instruments&mdash;sold to civilians and service members alike, before orchestrating a modern comeback in the late 2010s with a contemporary range that revives the brand&rsquo;s historic signatures.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse and mail order: the beginnings of a tool-driven label</h3>
From their small Zurich storefront, the founders soon moved from selling other brands to shipping their own watches by post, and this direct &ldquo;mail-order&rdquo; route became a lasting hallmark of the company.&nbsp;The shift from retailing to making watches under their own name took only a few years, with dedicated lines for concrete use cases (field, sea, cockpit) and constructions that favoured simple, repairable mechanics, and the focus was less on &ldquo;complication&rdquo; than on endurance and clarity.
In the 1960s, distribution extended to US military PX stores, where O&amp;W military and dive watches were tried in real-world conditions by service members, and this usage-led validation helped cement the image of an affordable professional instrument.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 and Ocean Graph: depth, decompression and the great-waters playbook</h3>
By the mid-sixties the brand stood out with cutting-edge divers, notably the Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, a thousand-metre-rated watch that crystallised the era&rsquo;s technical ambition and lodged the O&amp;W name in both recreational and professional diving, and partnerships with specialist makers fed a rational, no-nonsense aesthetic.
In the same spirit, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph brought a bezel and reading logic tailored to ascent and decompression stops, rooting the watch in a specific task rather than mere maritime d&eacute;cor, and the dial stayed clean to preserve underwater glance legibility.
These historic references&mdash;often cited and collected today&mdash;shaped a language of stout cases, serious water-resistance, practical bracelets and high-contrast typography that still surfaces in current models, and this through-line of &ldquo;tool first&rdquo; connects past to present.
<h3>Contemporary relaunch, Swiss anchoring and a short chain: O&amp;W&rsquo;s return</h3>
After weathering the quartz era and slowing down, the brand was revived in the late 2010s by Charles Le Menestrel with the explicit aim of extending the founding spirit rather than scattering into cosmetic runs, and&nbsp;design remains in Zurich while assembly and adjustment take place in the Swiss Jura.
The approach favours proven Swiss automatic movements, serviceable case architecture, credible water-resistance and bracelets built for comfort and durability, and the specification re-embraces the classic triad: reliability, legibility, serviceability.&nbsp;The comeback is not a millimetre-for-millimetre facsimile exercise; instead, it offers new watches inspired by historic use, upgrades finishing and emphasises stepwise quality control, and the outcome is a pragmatic modernity that avoids pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 and Ocean Graph: today&rsquo;s families and real use</h3>
The first modern releases took the form of compact pilot watches, the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, which reinterpret cockpit codes in versatile 39&ndash;40 mm cases with sapphire and screw-down crowns, and they target instrumental reading and all-day resilience.
On the dive side, the brand offers the Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (along with anniversary editions) as a contemporary take on the Caribbean ethos: seals, casebacks, and careful treatment combine into a modern sea instrument, and the dial retains the intelligibility that made the line&rsquo;s reputation.
In parallel, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph returned in an updated form, with its decompression-centred readout making for an instantly recognisable diver on the wrist, and this task-specific signature sets it apart in a crowded segment.
The Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron family serves those who want a readable, work-ready chronograph true to the O&amp;W spirit, with well-judged pushers and crisp scales for short-time duties, and the design stays deliberately practical rather than showy.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; contemporary pilot, compact diameter, sapphire, strong water-resistance, very legible dial for desk-to-field wear.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; aviation variant with a different bezel and markings signature, same robust intent.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; modern diver inspired by the Caribbean, serious water-proofing and direct readout.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; instrumental diver with decompression logic, strong identity on the wrist.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; &ldquo;tool&rdquo; chronograph, open dial and assertive pushers, clarity in short-time work.</li>
</ul>
Beyond names, what matters is use: a pilot for flat-plane readability and shock tolerance in active life; a diver for water and sturdiness; a chronograph to pace tasks and training, and this split helps pick an O&amp;W by real scenario rather than by style alone.
<h3>Tool-watch signature: materials, movements, dimensions and straps</h3>
Current cases prioritise steel, sober surface treatments, functional bezels and sapphire crystals, with diameters largely between 39 and 42 mm to sustain daily versatility, and on-wrist stability comes from disciplined lug spans and well-matched bracelets.
Mechanically, the brand uses modern, Swiss automatic calibres suited to intensive use&mdash;some adjusted or certified depending on versions&mdash;while ensuring that any competent watchmaker can service them, and this pragmatic mechanics reflects the utilitarian brief.
Bracelets&mdash;steel, RAF/NATO-type textile or rubber&mdash;are chosen for security, water-readiness and comfort, with buckles and end-links designed to minimise hot-spots, and modularity lets a single watch adapt to very different contexts.
<h3>Positioning, prices, channels and buyer profiles</h3>
O&amp;W sits in a &ldquo;quality tool&rdquo; segment: tidy finishing without ostentation, coherent spec sheets, tight quality control and messaging anchored in use rather than prestige, and the value proposition seeks instrument credibility rather than luxury posturing.
Distribution blends direct online sales with a small partner network and a didactic narrative about heritage and use, and this short channel supports coherent pricing and a clear link to the workshop.&nbsp;The core audience mixes owners who prefer watches to &ldquo;do&rdquo; rather than to &ldquo;show,&rdquo; recreational divers, travellers who prize sturdiness and professionals who need reliable, serviceable objects, and the brand resonates with those who trust proof of wear over glossy claims.
<h3>Selection guide: use case, legibility and ergonomics</h3>
Start by mapping your main environment&mdash;water, cockpit, desk-to-field or timed sport; if water rules, a Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 or Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph is natural, whereas P-101/P-104 suit quick, uncluttered reads, and the Navichron chronograph serves intervals and structured routines.
Next validate legibility: hand-to-dial contrast, index size, minimal clutter, minute track visibility and bezel logic that matches how you actually use it, and run the &ldquo;one-metre/one-glance&rdquo; test in natural light before deciding.
Finally, try the watch to judge stance (lug-to-lug), crown feel in the palm, bracelet suppleness and how it sits with sleeves and tasks, and keep the version you forget the fastest once strapped on.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs remains identifiable by its purpose-built vocation: watches made for use&mdash;readable, robust and supported by a clear Swiss chain. Between divers that channel the Caribbean legacy, modern pilot pieces and work-ready chronographs, the range is organised simply around real-world scenarios. To choose well, start with where you&rsquo;ll wear it, test clarity and comfort, then tune material and strap; you&rsquo;ll land on a capable instrument that ages well. To square these cues with long-term ownership feedback, a helpful compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated August 2025)

The&nbsp;Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT, launched in 2006, belongs to one of the most creative periods of the Pontos collection, itself introduced in 2000 to represent contemporary, elegant and mechanical watchmaking at Maurice Lacroix. The model combines two immediately visible complications: a large date display at 12 o&rsquo;clock and a second time zone presented in an independent counter at 6 o&rsquo;clock. This architecture creates an almost symmetrical dial organised around a strong vertical axis while avoiding the sportier appearance of a central GMT hand. The watch uses a 40 mm round stainless-steel case, domed sapphire crystal, transparent caseback and 50 metres of water resistance. Its automatic ML129 calibre is based on the ETA 2892-A2 and provides approximately 42 hours of power reserve.
Several references are offered with black or silver dials, markers or Roman numerals, crocodile straps or steel bracelets, together with a 2008 edition limited to 2,008 pieces.
<h3>Design &amp; legibility: large date above, second time zone below</h3>
The personality of the Pontos Grand Guichet GMT comes above all from the organisation of its dial. Main time is displayed by three central hands, while the large date is installed at 12 o&rsquo;clock in two openings allowing the two date digits to be read much more easily than through a conventional small aperture. At 6 o&rsquo;clock, an independent counter has its own hour and minute hands for following another time zone. The vertical alignment of the large date at 12 o&rsquo;clock and second time zone at 6 o&rsquo;clock is the essential distinguishing feature of the Pontos Grand Guichet GMT. This arrangement gives the dial strong symmetry despite the amount of information displayed. Depending on reference, Maurice Lacroix uses baton markers or Roman numerals and black, silver or warmer-toned dials. The main-time hands together with those of the second time zone receive luminous material on documented executions. The lower counter works on a twelve-hour rather than twenty-four-hour scale: it therefore makes another region&rsquo;s time easy to read but does not by itself distinguish morning from afternoon. For professional use with a familiar time zone, however, the architecture remains especially intuitive.
<h3>Case, crystal and comfort: 40 mm in a distinctly Pontos architecture</h3>
The round stainless-steel case measures 40 mm in diameter and approximately 12 to 12.5 mm thick depending on reference and available measuring method. These dimensions remain reasonable for an automatic watch combining a large date and second time zone, especially compared with many complicated watches exceeding 42 mm produced during the same period. The fixed bezel is slim and leaves a large dial opening, while the shoulders around the crown and alternation of polished and satin-brushed surfaces give the case the visual tension characteristic of the Pontos family. The 40 mm diameter allows both complications to remain highly legible without turning the watch into an oversized piece. The sapphire crystal is domed and receives anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. The screwed caseback also incorporates sapphire, allowing the automatic movement and its decoration to be viewed. Lug width is close to 20 mm on documented references, making replacement of an ageing leather strap straightforward. Crocodile configurations generally use a folding clasp, while certain references receive a steel bracelet with folding buckle. Water resistance of 5 ATM, or 50 metres, remains appropriate for a versatile city watch rather than one intended for intensive aquatic activities.
<h3>Movement: ML129, ETA 2892-A2 base and practical complications</h3>
Calibre ML129 is based on the ETA 2892-A2, a Swiss automatic architecture widely used in higher-level watches of this period because of its relatively slim construction and frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. In the Pontos Grand Guichet GMT, Maurice Lacroix adapts this base to control the large date and second time display. Documented examples specify 21 jewels and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The movement also provides manual winding and precise time setting. The principal attraction of the ML129 is its integration of two highly useful complications on a familiar ETA 2892-A2 foundation that an experienced watchmaker can readily understand. Central seconds move smoothly thanks to the 4 Hz frequency. The large date improves everyday calendar legibility while the GMT counter provides hours and minutes for the second time zone, also making it possible to follow regions using a thirty-minute offset when adjustment permits. The movement can be viewed through the sapphire back, with a signed oscillating weight and Maurice Lacroix decorative finishing. It nevertheless offers neither weekend-length autonomy nor a silicon hairspring like certain modern movements; its appeal is that of a quality classical construction that is proven and comparatively straightforward to maintain.
<h3>Chronological milestones and main models (2006&ndash;2025)</h3>
(2006) Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT Black Leather:
This configuration belongs to the earliest Grand Guichet GMT watches introduced when Maurice Lacroix expanded the Pontos collection in 2006. The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT PT6098-SS001-330 has a 40 mm stainless-steel case approximately 12 mm thick, a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and a screwed transparent sapphire caseback. The black dial uses silver-coloured baton markers and luminous central hands. The large date display occupies 12 o&rsquo;clock while a counter at 6 o&rsquo;clock has two hands displaying the hours and minutes of a second time zone on a twelve-hour scale. Automatic calibre ML129 is based on the ETA 2892-A2, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, contains 21 jewels and provides approximately 42 hours of power reserve. Water resistance reaches 50 metres. A black crocodile strap with folding clasp reinforces the dressy and contemporary character of this early execution.
(2006) Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT Silver Roman Bracelet:
The silver variation demonstrates how significantly the same design can become more classical when combined with Roman numerals and a metal bracelet. The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT PT6098-SS002-110 retains the 40 mm steel case, domed sapphire crystal, transparent back and 50 metres of water resistance of the black model. Its lighter dial, however, provides greater contrast between the different display levels and gives the impression of a slightly larger diameter. The large date remains positioned at 12 o&rsquo;clock and the second-time-zone counter at 6 o&rsquo;clock. Roman numerals reinforce the dress-watch orientation, while the main hands and those of the GMT counter use luminous material. Automatic calibre ML129 retains its ETA 2892-A2 architecture, 21 jewels, 28,800-vibration-per-hour frequency and approximately 42 hours of autonomy. The steel bracelet with folding clasp gives this reference a more versatile appearance and greater physical presence than crocodile-strap executions.
(2008) Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT Limited Edition 2008:
The 2008 limited edition is one of the most clearly identified variations and one of the most interesting for a collector. The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT PT6228-SS001-130 is produced in 2,008 individually numbered examples. It uses a 40 mm stainless-steel case measuring approximately 12 to 12.5 mm thick, sapphire crystal, transparent caseback and 5 ATM water resistance. Its light or silver-coloured dial is combined with brown tones and a 20 mm brown crocodile strap, creating a noticeably warmer atmosphere than the black models. The large date remains installed at 12 o&rsquo;clock and the independent second-time-zone display at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The documented automatic movement is based on the ETA 2892-A2, contains 21 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 42 hours of power reserve. Its attraction lies primarily in explicitly limited production and specific styling rather than any fundamental change to the mechanical principle of the model.
(2009) Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT Black PT6208:
The PT6208 generation continues the overall Grand Guichet GMT formula with several reference and finishing adjustments. The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT PT6208-SS001-330 still has a 40 mm stainless-steel case approximately 12 mm thick, a black dial with silver-coloured markers, a large date at 12 o&rsquo;clock and second-time-zone counter at 6 o&rsquo;clock. The sapphire crystal receives anti-reflective treatment and the transparent back allows the automatic movement to be viewed. Water resistance remains limited to 50 metres. The watch is notably documented on a black crocodile strap with folding clasp. Calibre ML129 retains its ETA 2892-A2 foundation and the technical logic of the earliest references, with central seconds, large date and independent indication of the second time zone. This development therefore does not attempt to reinvent the model but extends an architecture that had already found its balance in 2006. It continues to appear in retailer catalogues and inventories for several years after its introduction.
(2009) Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT Silver Bracelet PT6208:
The light-dial steel-bracelet variation is one of the most versatile executions from the second period of the model. The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT PT6208-SS002-130 retains the 40 mm round case, domed sapphire, screwed transparent back and 50 metres of water resistance but combines its silver dial with a metal bracelet. The large date display remains at the top of the dial and the second-time-zone counter forms its visual balance at 6 o&rsquo;clock. This arrangement maintains clear reading despite the five visible hands when those of the second time zone are included. Automatic calibre ML129 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and uses ETA 2892-A2 architecture with approximately 42 hours of autonomy. The steel bracelet substantially changes comfort and weight compared with crocodile but also makes the watch less formal and more appropriate for everyday use. New Pontos watches developed after this period adopt other complications and designs without permanently continuing this Grand Guichet GMT configuration.
<h3>Choosing the right version: dial, bracelet, 12-hour GMT and pre-owned purchase</h3>
Dial choice substantially changes the personality of the watch. Black versions with markers have a more contemporary appearance and make the hands and two complications immediately visible. Silver or light dials, especially when associated with Roman numerals, create a more classical result. The black dial is probably the best choice if the Pontos Grand Guichet GMT is intended to be worn with both professional and casual clothing. Lighter versions will appeal more strongly to someone seeking a genuine dress watch from the 2000s.
The GMT function also needs to be understood before purchase. Unlike many current travel watches, the Pontos does not use a central 24-hour hand but a small independent dial displaying hours and minutes over twelve hours. This solution is highly legible but does not directly provide day-or-night information for the second zone. The 6 o&rsquo;clock counter is particularly suitable when regularly following one city or office whose day-night relationship is already familiar. For frequent travel through several different time zones, a modern GMT with a 24-hour indication may provide more information.
The leather strap corresponds most closely to the original design. It visually lightens the case and gives greater prominence to the large dial. The steel bracelet adds weight and creates a less formal appearance, but can be difficult and expensive to find separately for an older watch. An example sold with its complete original steel bracelet therefore deserves particular attention. With leather, retaining the Maurice Lacroix folding clasp is more important because a worn 20 mm strap can be replaced much more easily.
The approximately 42-hour power reserve was respectable for the period but is modest compared with modern movements offering 70 or 80 hours. A watch removed on Friday evening will generally have stopped by Monday morning. The large date then also needs to be corrected. The Pontos Grand Guichet GMT is better suited to regular use than to an infrequent rotation involving many watches. In return, the ETA 2892-A2 serving as the foundation of the ML129 remains a familiar architecture, an appreciated advantage when servicing becomes necessary.
Finally, the age of available examples makes it necessary to inspect more than the appearance of the dial. Correct operation of both digits of the large date, adjustment of the second time zone, movement accuracy, winding, sapphire back and condition of the crown should all be checked. The original 50-metre water-resistance rating should not be assumed still to be available after fifteen or twenty years. A recent water-resistance test is essential before any deliberate exposure to water. Documented servicing and the presence of the box, papers and bracelet components can also make a significant difference on a reference now available almost exclusively pre-owned. Other customers&rsquo; opinions are essential.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Grand Guichet GMT is aimed at enthusiasts seeking an elegant travel watch whose complications are presented very differently from those of a traditional sporting GMT. Its large date at 12 o&rsquo;clock and second time zone at 6 o&rsquo;clock create an immediately identifiable and remarkably symmetrical dial. The 40 mm case remains easy to wear, while black or silver dials and leather or steel attachments provide a choice between contemporary and more classical appearances. The ML129 calibre based on the ETA 2892-A2 does not offer the autonomy of recent movements but benefits from a proven architecture and 4 Hz frequency. The 2008 limited PT6228 adds particular collector interest, while PT6098 and PT6208 remain the references most representative of the model.
To compare large-date legibility, real-world use of the second time zone, comfort and long-term reliability with actual owner experiences,&nbsp;Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.
(Updated August 2026)

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