Laine - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Laine is an independent watch brand founded in 2016 in Le Locle, Switzerland, by Finnish watchmaker Torsti Laine; the workshop earned recognition for hand-turned guilloché dials, meticulous finishing and a custom-order approach built around re-architected Unitas hand-wound pieces, a 38 mm Swiss micro-rotor, and, since 2024, a compact 37 mm model that concentrates the atelier’s decorative strengths.

Finnish roots and a Le Locle workshop

A graduate of Finland’s Kelloseppäkoulu—alma mater to Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarpaneva—Torsti Laine first drew attention by winning the 2014 Lange Watchmaking Excellence Award, then worked with A. Lange & Söhne (Germany) and Voutilainen (Switzerland) before relocating to the Jura Arc; today he builds highly individualized watches from La Chaux-de-Fonds/Le Locle and communicates directly with clients mostly online, which means the brand fuses high craft with a short, digital client loop.

Hand-guilloché, movement finishing and customization

Laine’s design language hinges on hand-turned guilloché (executed by a specialist partner on traditional engines), frosted rings and plates, in-house steel hands hand-filed to a round profile and mirror-polished, and re-drawn bridges featuring sharp bevels, black polish and engraved motifs; customers can specify combinations of patterns (basket-weave, barleycorn, flame, diamond, “triple guilloché”), color palettes and index styles (Breguet, Arabic, batons), so that each watch becomes an exercise in architectural watchmaking devoted to legibility.

Laine V38 micro-rotor

Introduced in 2021, the Laine V38 pairs a 38 mm steel case only 9 mm thick (AR-treated sapphire front and back) with Vaucher’s 5401 micro-rotor at its highest finishing level—Laine re-engraves the tungsten rotor in-house; the watch targets those who prefer a compact profile compared to Unitas-based builds and comes as “Triple Guilloché” or “Frosted,” with the former listed at CHF 11,500 before tax, underscoring a slim, elegant proposition where rich décor never compromises wearability.

Laine GG3 and Gelidus 3

On the hand-wound side, the Laine GG3 and Laine Gelidus 3 share a 40.5 mm case and a heart thoroughly re-worked from the Unitas 6498 gear train (designated LA18.1 by Laine): newly drawn bridges with neat anglage and broad black polish, classical wheel layout displayed under the caseback, and dials combining a frosted outer ring with a hand-guilloché center; the GG3 (“Gelidus/Guilloché 3”) pushes the idea to three distinct patterns on one dial, while the Gelidus 3 opts for a cleaner single-pattern center, with observed pricing around USD 10,550 at retailers and CHF 11,500 before tax directly, all of which shows that the manual line prioritizes texture theater without giving up the robustness of its base.

• Laine GG3 — 40.5 mm, triple guilloché, LA18.1 hand-wound, wide array of motifs and colors; CHF 11,500 before tax as listed.
• Laine Gelidus 3 — 40.5 mm, frosted ring + guilloché center, hand-wound Unitas re-worked; circa USD 10,550 observed at select dealers.

New Laine P37 (2024)

Launched late 2024, the Laine P37 distills the atelier’s aesthetic into a 37 mm format (≈8 mm thick) with a hand-wound calibre derived from the Peseux 7001 gear train yet heavily re-architected: in-house bridges, generous black polish, worked plates and a guilloché barrel-bridge; P37 ships with five “fixed” dials (Salmon Spider, Ocean Blue Diamond, Sky Blue Twill, Murasaki Flame, Silver Grain) to simplify decisions for buyers and displays at partner retailers, priced at CHF 9,900 before tax (≈CHF 10,702 incl. VAT per GPHG) and announced as a 99-piece series, providing a compact, highly finished entry point into Laine’s world.

• Laine P37 “Salmon Spider” — lightning/spider guilloché, heat-blued hands; warm dressy presence.
• Laine P37 “Ocean Blue Diamond” — diamond guilloché, mixed numerals/dots; graphic elegance.
• Laine P37 “Sky Blue Twill” — twill guilloché with crisp read-out.
• Laine P37 “Murasaki Flame” — flame guilloché in blue-to-purple tones inspired by a Japanese dye.
• Laine P37 “Silver Grain” — inverted triple “grain de riz,” blued numerals; bright, versatile contrast.

Positioning, pricing and channels

Sales blend direct-to-consumer via the official site with a handful of specialist partners—Cellini and Passion Fine Jewelry in the U.S., Noble-aligned retailers in Japan—while communications remain intentionally low-key and word-of-mouth driven; public anchors place hand-wound pieces around CHF 9,900–11,500 before tax depending on model and décor, the V38 at CHF 11,500 before tax (triple guilloché), and P37 requires a CHF 3,300 prepayment with a nominal three-month delivery estimate (subject to change), making it essential to align expectations on deposits, service and logistics so that your chosen channel and T&Cs are as dialed-in as your aesthetic spec.

Choosing guide

Start with diameter: 37 mm (P37) for a dress-leaning presence that slides under cuffs, 38 mm (V38) if you prefer a slim automatic micro-rotor, 40.5 mm (GG3/Gelidus 3) for a broader stage and larger dial opening; then pick textures (frosted ring vs full guilloché), index style and the dominant colour, and finally assess practicalities—wear frequency, contexts (desk, weekend, events), maintenance appetite and the availability of your chosen retailer/service route—because the right Laine is the one whose décor and ergonomics map cleanly onto your real life.

Conclusion

Laine appeals to collectors who value strong aesthetics—hand-guilloché, controlled frosting, mirror-polished steel hands—and a demanding yet transparent commission process. Between the compact expressiveness of P37, the slim elegance of V38 and the textured theatre of GG3/Gelidus, the brand offers three clear paths to a characterful, often-worn piece. Settle size first, decide how much customization you actually want, confirm availability through your preferred channel, and benchmark your shortlist against Dialicious customer reviews.

(Updated August 2025)