The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

Japanese watchmaking is unique in its mastery of light. On this small watch with its antique design, the grained dial takes on a silvery hue when exposed to sunlight, as do its silver-plated Bréguet-style indexes. The two work together, either in unison in a white/silver finish or in a black-on-white collaboration, allowing for easy readability. It's refined, poetic, yet functional and masterfully executed.

Bravo Kuoe

Japanese art

A beating heart, a unique visual

It hasn't left my wrist for several months, and no matter how hard I try to wear the dozen or so watches in my collection, none of them give me that infinite and bewildering visual effect that I can't get enough of. And even more so, being a watch addict like most of the enthusiasts on this site, I continue to tirelessly search for new watches, but I can't find any that could trigger the initial flash of this Nomos. So I haven't bought a watch since this one last April.

So what is so unique about this watch that keeps me from taking it off day and night?

This watch is best appreciated up close, like a fine wine: its details and attributes reveal themselves over time.
First of all, the dial isn't black; it's a very dark charcoal gray. But it can appear quite pale black. The indexes appear beige, a bit like patinated Luminova, but upon closer inspection, they are sage green, and the shade is very subtle. And above all, they are surrounded by a turquoise blue border...

As a result, the whole thing creates the illusion that the indexes are simply green, because this very bright blue, combined with this pale green, creates another green. It's remarkably subtle in terms of visuals and illusion.

Not to mention that at night, these indexes will glow, but in an absolutely surprising bright blue Luminova. Truly magical!

Another thing I hadn't imagined when I was first enchanted by the watch in the photo: the mini seconds hand, which really pops in its nuanced color, ranging from bright orange to red. Especially the hour and minute hands, which are filled with a very white Luminova with a very modern look and, above all, polished edges that capture the light and deceive our eye. In the photos, you can see that they're blue, but that's still an optical illusion...

The reverse California dial adds the final touch, completely confusing us about what's a certain color, what's right side up or upside down, what's symmetrical or not.

I've honestly never seen a dial of such visual finesse, and that's why I have such a hard time wearing the other watches in my collection, which end up boring me too quickly.

And then, you only have to turn the watch over to be equally amazed by this movement, also colorfully decorated, which comes to life in its oscillation, like a pulsating heart, blurring the line between mechanical and organic.

The winding is silky smooth, the precision extremely stable, between 1 and 4 seconds maximum when the barrel spring is properly tensioned.

A psychedelic watch

<p><strong>Kuoe</strong>, founded in <strong>2020</strong>, is a Kyoto-based Japanese brand created by Kenji Uchimura; it targets enthusiasts of reinterpreted classics with compact proportions, Japanese assembly, and a proudly neo-vintage spirit.</p>
<h3>Vintage proportions with a Kyoto backbone</h3>
<p>The brand embraces a language drawn from 1940s&ndash;1960s watches: compact cases (34&ndash;38 mm), domed crystals and restrained graphics, all geared for unisex, everyday wear. <strong>This loyalty to historical sizes sets Kuoe apart on the wrist, bringing elegant style without modern oversizing.</strong></p>
<h3>Old Smith &amp; Royal Smith: families and key cues</h3>
<p>The range revolves around two complementary pillars: &ldquo;Old Smith,&rdquo; revisiting British-style field pieces and small civilian sixties watches, and &ldquo;Royal Smith,&rdquo; a premium line with sharper details and a cushion case. <strong>Start by picking the architecture (field, civilian, cushion), then choose size and finish.</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Kuoe Old Smith 90-001</strong> &mdash; Compact 35 mm civilian watch (domed crystal), 1960s vibe, clean readability (quartz versions).</li>
<li><strong>Kuoe Old Smith 90-002</strong> &mdash; Field-watch take on 1940s&ndash;1970s designs: bold Arabic numerals, matte dial, offered in 35 mm and 38 mm (automatic).</li>
<li><strong>Kuoe Old Smith 90-007</strong> &mdash; Dress-leaning interpretation within the Old Smith family (kept to compact diameters).</li>
<li><strong>Kuoe Royal Smith 90-008</strong> &mdash; Premium series (~34 mm) with cushion case and applied Breguet numerals; domed sapphire and crisp detailing.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Materials, movements and Kyoto assembly</h3>
<p>Common ground includes 316L steel cases, domed sapphire (on select models) and in-house assembly in Kyoto; for powertrains Kuoe opts for proven Japanese calibres: TMI VD78A quartz for the <strong>Kuoe Old Smith 90-001</strong>, no-date automatics for the <strong>Kuoe Old Smith 90-002</strong>, and Miyota 9039 for the <strong>Kuoe Royal Smith 90-008</strong>. <strong>The recipe prioritizes robustness, easy servicing and a clean, readable display.</strong></p>
<h3>Positioning, pricing and channels</h3>
<p>Kuoe sits in the &ldquo;accessibly high-end&rdquo; bracket: quartz entry pieces around 35 mm, compact automatics, and a more refined premium line, sold primarily D2C with a handful of partners. <strong>Pricing remains measured for Made-in-Japan watches, making authentic vintage proportions easy to adopt.</strong></p>
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
<p><strong>Kuoe suits enthusiasts seeking the elegance of historical sizes without sacrificing modern reliability.</strong> Old Smith covers versatile daily wear (city/everyday), while Royal Smith appeals to cushion-case fans who want elevated detailing. Decide by use case (field vs. dress), preferred size (34&ndash;38 mm) and movement (quartz vs. automatic). To anchor your decision in real ownership, rely on <strong>Dialicious customer reviews</strong> before purchasing.</p>
<p>(Updated August 2025)</p>

I have had this watch for 1 month and I am satisfied with it. A rather impressive quality but a screwed crown whose thread could be improved.
I find it magnificent with rare but very elegant dimensions, a real dress watch. The luminescence would deserve a few additional layers.
The bracelet is of good quality (Italian leather) you can buy a butterfly buckle separately but count 80 euros with delivery from Japan.
The question I ask myself is: "Would it have deserved a date?"
My answer: "Probably but it would have had to be well integrated, easier said than done..."

Elegant watch and quality at the rendezvous

I followed the emergence of the Kuoe brand assiduously and hesitated for a long time to take the plunge and buy it. And then the brand unveiled the Royal Smith model and I decided to take the plunge. 
The watch, in the picture, looks really superb from all angles, but it represents a significant cost and they announced a shipment from Japan within 1 month. I let myself be seized by the urgency of the situation, the watch being out of stock very quickly each time it was restocked and I bought it. All this created in me impatience and high expectations. 

Upon receipt, I discovered a very pretty vintage-style timepiece, very light and of a very modest size (35mm) and the look convinced me relatively. Relatively, because the small one still has a perceived value below my expectations. It is a shame to note the poor quality of the materials and their design. This really harms the overall feeling and I keep telling myself that my Seiko bought for the same price offers so many advantages. The "Grain de riz" bracelet is ultimately not one, the links being welded in groups of 5. The folding clasp has play and makes a clicking sound. The crown is undersized and manual winding is not easy. And what about the oscillating weight that makes a pan noise when it turns. 
In my humble opinion, this watch is absolutely not worth the amount it is offered for and I am disappointed by that. It would have been worth €200 at most for its perceived value. 
Nevertheless, the object is nice and relatively comfortable to wear due to its size and lightness. And to be honest, well, I wear it because it is still very pretty.

Royal Smith 90-010

<p>La marque <strong>Auricoste</strong> a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en <strong>1854</strong> par Emile Thomas &agrave; Paris, en France. Sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;e dans le domaine des chronom&egrave;tres de marine, le fondateur a c&eacute;d&eacute; l'entreprise en 1889 &agrave; Joseph Auricoste qui a renomm&eacute; la marque &agrave; son nom. La marque est connue pour avoir remport&eacute; une m&eacute;daille d'or &agrave; l'Exposition Universelle de Paris en 1900. Au cours de son existence, elle a fabriqu&eacute; des montres pour l'arm&eacute;e et la marine fran&ccedil;aise, ainsi que pour un usage civil.</p>
<p>En 1966, elle a &eacute;galement con&ccedil;u des horloges et chronom&egrave;tres de marine &eacute;lectrom&eacute;caniques en collaboration avec la soci&eacute;t&eacute; Patek Philippe pour la flotte navale fran&ccedil;aise. La gamme comprend des mod&egrave;les tels que la <a title="Page Auricoste Type 20" href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/type_20">Auricoste Type 20</a>, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale">Auricoste Type 26 A&eacute;ronavale</a>, la Auricoste Flymaster Type 20, la <a title="Page Auricoste Spirotechnique" href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/spirotechnique">Auricoste Spirotechnique</a> et la <a title="Page Auricoste ScubaMaster" href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/scubamaster">Auricoste ScubaMaster</a>.</p>
<h2>Quel est le prix d'une montre Auricoste ?</h2>
<p>Les prix des montres Auricoste neuves diff&eacute;rents selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre 1,650 &euro; pour une <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale/acier">Auricoste Type 26 A&eacute;ronavale Acier</a> et 3,450 &euro; pour une Auricoste Flymaster. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Auricoste r&eacute;cente moins ch&egrave;re. Les mod&egrave;les Auricoste Vintage sont plus difficile &agrave; trouver et surtout beaucoup plus ch&egrave;res lorsqu'elles sont en tr&egrave;s bon &eacute;tat. Comptez entre 6,000 &euro; et 8,000 &euro; minimum pour une Auricoste Type 20 Militaire vendue par un sp&eacute;cialiste du vintage.</p>
<h2>Auricoste : L'horloger de la Marine</h2>
<p><strong>Auricoste</strong> est une marque ind&eacute;pendante et familiale d&eacute;tenue par Monsieur Claude Tordjman et produit plusieurs centaines de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une Auricoste qui vous correspond le mieux, les <strong>avis clients Dialicious</strong> sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.</p>
<p>(Mise &agrave; jour Avril 2024)</p>

<p dir="ltr">The <strong>brand Auricoste</strong> was created in <strong>1854</strong> by Emile Thomas in Paris, France. Specializing in the field of marine chronometers, the founder sold the company in 1889 to Joseph Auricoste who renamed the brand in his name. The brand is known for winning a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900. During its existence, it manufactured watches for the French army and navy, as well as for civilian use.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In 1966, it also designed electromechanical marine clocks and chronometers in collaboration with the Patek Philippe company for the French naval fleet. The range includes models such as the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/type_20">Auricoste Type 20</a>, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale">Auricoste Type 26 A&eacute;ronavale</a>, the Auricoste Flymaster Type 20, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/spirotechnique"> Auricoste Spirotechnique</a> and the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/scubamaster">Auricoste ScubaMaster</a>.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Auricoste watch cost?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The prices of new Auricoste watches vary depending on the model. Most cost between &euro;1,650 for one <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste/type_26_aeronavale/acier">Auricoste Type 26 Naval Aviation Steel</a> and &euro;3,450 for an Auricoste Flymaster. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a recent Auricoste less expensive. Auricoste Vintage models are more difficult to find and above all much more expensive when they are in very good condition. Expect between &euro;6,000 and &euro;8,000 minimum for an Auricoste Type 20 Military sold by a vintage specialist.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Auricoste: The French Navy watchmaker</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Auricoste is an independent and family brand owned by Mr. Claude Tordjman and produces several hundreds watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Auricoste that best suits you, the <strong>Dialicious owners' reviews </strong>are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated April 2024)</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

Kuoe Royal Smith Owner Review : Admirable, fascinating and delicate

Japanese art

Where to buy your Kuoe?

YOU ARE :

Other reviews published by Warp

Nomos Glashütte
Club Campus

Customize your Kuoe with our selection of accessories:

Eagle Eye Watches

ABP Concept

Iconic Switzerland

Kuoe Royal Smith Owner Review : Admirable, fascinating and delicate

Japanese art

Where to buy your Kuoe?

YOU ARE :

Other reviews published by Warp

Nomos GlashütteClub Campus

Customize your Kuoe with our selection of accessories:

Eagle Eye Watches

ABP Concept

Iconic Switzerland

Nomos Glashütte
Club Campus