The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

I don't know where to begin to describe this marvel, the SBGY007, also known as the Omiwatari. Equipped with the renowned mechanical Spring Drive movement and the magic of its smoothly gliding seconds hand, this very elegant and slim case boasts high-quality finishes (Zaratsu polishing). This watch offers incredible comfort and a beautiful dial. The pattern replicates the ripples of icy water. Depending on the light and angle, the dial is playful and offers variations that are a feast for the eyes!

A marvel!

This Oris Artelier jumping hour watch isn't very common, yet it offers a great deal. I would classify it as a dress watch with its beautiful, finely guilloché and sunburst dial, its small seconds subdial that intersects the minute track, its hour window at 12 o'clock, and its pairs of differently sized hour markers that elegantly adorn the dial like rays. Its diameter and thickness make it a watch that easily fits under a sleeve. It's discreet and understated with its leather strap and folding clasp. A watch that delights me and that I enjoy wearing regularly. And when the hour approaches, I appreciate watching the jumping hour in motion.

Jumping Hour

This 39mm Sixties Fiery Orange (its sibling with the panoramic date is 42mm) features an extraordinary dial that shifts from yellow to brown depending on the light. The watch's slim profile for an automatic model is spectacular, making it one of my dress watches. I love the design of the Arabic numerals on the textured dial. The open case back allows you to admire the decorated movement. It's completely silent and works equally well with formal or casual attire. You try to find fault with it, but it's difficult to find any imperfections. It's refined, precise, and remarkably well-made.

Remarkable finesse and execution

This blue Zenith Defy Skyline, delivered with its high-quality rubber strap and metal bracelet with folding clasps, makes a strong impression with its diameter and the quality of its finish. The interplay of geometries is successful, the hour markers catch the light brilliantly, the polished surfaces gleam in the sunlight, and the running seconds hand highlights the El Primero movement's 36,000 vibrations per hour. It has a striking presence on the wrist that definitely makes an impact. The star-shaped rotor is very attractive and reinforces the overall impression of quality, with the crown also offering a pleasant tactile experience. I wouldn't wear it every day, but with its screw-down crown, it could easily accompany me everywhere. In conclusion, it appears simple, yet it's full of subtle details, like the dial which reveals a shimmering effect from certain angles.

A second crazy, unnecessary, and therefore indispensable

I don't know where to begin, the variations in the dial's reflections, the quality of the polishing, the unique design, and the ingenuity of the engineering all blend together in incredible harmony! This watch is fantastic and offers so many unique details to admire. The dial's texture creates very different patterns and shadows between full light and indirect lighting. You have to see it in person to fully appreciate the magic of this piece.

The expression of a very high level of craftsmanship

This watch, which needs no introduction to connoisseurs, boasts impressive elegance and comfort. In this all-rose gold version, it exudes preciousness without being ostentatious. Its understated design allows for versatile use, even though I initially only intended it as a dress watch. It's a very easy watch to wear and offers excellent legibility. Its history and designer enhance the satisfaction of owning one and reflect the current resurgence of the brand.

A vintage piece with incredible elegance

The story of Grand Seiko is closely linked to that of <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/seiko">Seiko</a>, the famous Japanese watch brand. However, Grand Seiko has a distinct identity as Seiko's premium division, focusing on watchmaking excellence, precision and refined aesthetics. Since its beginnings, Grand Seiko has strived to compete with the best Swiss watch brands, embodying Japanese know-how and developing its own vision of luxury watchmaking.
<h2 dir="ltr">History of Grand Seiko</h2>
The story of Grand Seiko dates back to the late 1950s, when <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/seiko">Seiko</a> decided to create a line of high-end watches to compete with renowned Swiss brands. The goal was to design and manufacture watches that met the highest standards of precision, durability and finish.
In 1960, Grand Seiko was officially launched, with the introduction of the Grand Seiko "First" model. This watch was equipped with a manual mechanical movement and was distinguished by its exceptional precision and readability. The dial features a distinctive logo, &ldquo;GS&rdquo;, which will become emblematic of the brand. The first Grand Seiko models were received with praise, not only in Japan, but also abroad. The watches were particularly valued for their unparalleled precision, reliability and clean aesthetic. Grand Seiko quickly gained a reputation for watchmaking excellence, rivaling established Swiss brands.
Over the decades, Grand Seiko has continued to innovate and improve its watches. The brand introduced high-precision quartz movements in the 1970s, which were considered the most precise in the world at the time. However, Grand Seiko has always maintained its commitment to mechanical movements, developing sophisticated calibers with complications such as chronographs, minute repeaters and tourbillons.
In the 1990s, Grand Seiko faced challenges due to the growing popularity of quartz watches and the decline of interest in mechanical watches. However, the brand has continued to produce high quality watches with meticulous attention to detail and precision, cementing its reputation for watchmaking excellence.&nbsp;At the turn of the 21st century, Grand Seiko experienced a renaissance. The brand was reintroduced to the international market, with particular attention given to the United States and Europe. Grand Seiko watches were now presented as luxury products, with distinctive designs and high-end finishes.
The Grand Seiko line has also diversified with the introduction of collections such as the Grand Seiko Heritage, Grand Seiko Elegance, Grand Seiko Sport and Grand Seiko Nature of Time. Each collection offers a diversity of styles and features to meet the tastes and needs of watch enthusiasts around the world.
Over the past few years, Grand Seiko has consolidated its position as an internationally recognized luxury watch brand. Grand Seiko watches are made at the Shinshu Studio factory, located in the mountains of Japan, where master craftsmen are committed to creating watches of exceptional quality. Each watch is assembled by hand and undergoes careful checks to guarantee its precision and reliability.
The constant pursuit of watchmaking perfection is a key characteristic of Grand Seiko. The brand has developed innovative technologies, such as Grand Seiko's alloy spring movement and Zaratsu polishing, which gives the cases an impeccable mirror-polished finish. These advances demonstrate the brand's commitment to innovation and superior quality.
Grand Seiko has also been recognized for its distinctive design, combining elegance and functionality. Watches often feature sleek dials with precise indexes and hands, providing exceptional readability. The cases are designed with balanced lines and highly polished finishes, adding a touch of sophistication to each model.
The Grand Seiko watch has become a symbol of Japanese craftsmanship and watchmaking excellence. The brand is proud of its motto "The Nature of Time", which reflects the deep connection between nature, time and the creation of each watch. This philosophy is reflected in dials inspired by nature, such as the Mount Iwate motif or the dials of the "Snowflake" series, which recall the beauty and purity of Japanese landscapes.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Grand Seiko watch cost?</h2>
Prices for new Grand Seikos change regularly and vary depending on the model. Most cost between $7,000 and $9,000 depending on the models and finishes. A Grand Seiko Spring Drive begins at $5,000, while a Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (limited to 20 pieces) costs no less than $370,000. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a less expensive Grand Seiko.
<h2 dir="ltr">Grand Seiko: The discretion of luxury Japanese watchmaking</h2>
In summary, the story of Grand Seiko is that of a Japanese watch brand which has established itself as a major player in the world of luxury watchmaking. With its commitment to watchmaking excellence, unparalleled precision and refined aesthetics, Grand Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts around the world.
To choose the Grand Seiko model that best suits you, the Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience. Check out the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_luxury_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Luxury watch brands</a>, including Grand Seiko.
(Updated January 2024)

As a long-time Seiko enthusiast, and having had the opportunity to appreciate the perfection achieved by the Spring Drive movement, I was waiting for the brand to integrate this movement into a more discreet and less massive case than that of the traditional Grand Seiko ranges. My wish was amply fulfilled with the release of the Elegance range, which not only inaugurated a thinner case, but also dressed in subtle curves that give it a less angular aesthetic than the brand's usual models. In addition, Grand Seiko responded to the wish of many fans of the brand by removing the power reserve and date from the dial, systematically present in the Spring Drive models, to allow one to fully contemplate the pattern that adorns it. Simplicity and sobriety in the service of elegance... and a certain logic, since the power reserve, all the more relevant since the movement is hand-wound, is now located on the movement plate and visible when the crown is wound in the morning. The dial background reproduces the surface of a frozen lake, Lake Suwa, whose ice sometimes splits across its entire width to form the "passage of the gods". I literally fell for this Omiwatari, as the combination of this discreet case, this subtly colored dial background and the serene movement of the third hand restores an unequaled class that I have not found on any watch I have encountered before. The quality of the finish is to GS standards, undoubtedly at the highest level as the work on the hands, on the indexes or on the lettering of the dial is remarkable. The domed sapphire crystal, and the play of light that it brings to the dial completes my delight. For the record, I had initially considered buying a Datejust with a fluted blue dial. The incompleteness of this project ultimately allowed me to fall for this GS. I am convinced today that if I had obtained the date just (which was finally offered to me by the AD a few months later), I would have regretted this purchase when I discovered the Omiwatari which in many ways offers much more than a DJ, even without the date...

SBGY007 "Omiwatari", the passage of the gods...

Last summer, while traveling in Japan, I wanted to bring back a small souvenir, and while strolling through the upscale neighborhoods of Tokyo and Kyoto, I started dreaming of a small Grand Seiko that could satisfy my desire for a watch and a memento… The chic districts of these big cities are simply incredible… Louis Vuitton and Chanel boutiques in several areas… Rolex, A. Lang & S., and Patek Philippe shops on every corner, and then there was that Patek Philippe 6119R that had been on my mind for a while.

Looking for my first dress watch, a Calatrava seemed like the obvious choice… but everyone knows how difficult it is to acquire one because it's "for exhibition only." In short, I thought I might be tempted by a classic, simple, and pure watch.

I was somewhat interested in Grand Seiko for its exemplary movements and unparalleled finishing. The most stunning was undoubtedly the SBGW301, but it was quite quickly the hypnotic dial of the SBGY007, known as the Omiwatari, that captured my heart. Besides the blue dial and the case shape with its Zaratsu polish, which I find magnificent, the manual Spring Drive movement is a work of art and technology. The power reserve indicator on the case back sealed the deal for me.

After seeing and trying it on in Tokyo, and then seeing and trying it on again in Kyoto, I finally succumbed at our third encounter, which took place in the magnificent Osaka boutique. I've worn it every day since my return, and it's a daily pleasure to wind it and admire its pristine dial, devoid of a date or power reserve indicator.

The 38.5 mm diameter suits me perfectly, and I can easily do without my large watches (I've always bought watches that were too big for me). Its slim profile makes it a very comfortable watch to wear. However, it's not very water-resistant and has a crocodile strap, so I'll probably swap it for one of my sports watches in the summer… but I'll be sorry to do so.

In short, this watch is simply sublime, and only a Patek Philippe could tempt me away from it… unless the SBGW301 is enough to make me happy (it's at the top of my list).

Omiwatari - Traces of God

ZRC est une maison horlog&egrave;re fond&eacute;e en 1904 &agrave; Gen&egrave;ve (Suisse) par Edmond Zuccolo et Joseph Rochet. N&eacute;e dans l&rsquo;univers des cha&icirc;nes de gousset puis des bracelets m&eacute;talliques extensibles, la marque s&rsquo;adresse aujourd&rsquo;hui aux amateurs de plongeuses-outils iconiques, rendue c&eacute;l&egrave;bre par sa Grands Fonds d&eacute;velopp&eacute;e pour la Marine nationale &agrave; partir des ann&eacute;es 1960.
<h3>Couronne &agrave; 6 h, bo&icirc;tier monobloc et esprit Marine nationale</h3>
Con&ccedil;ue pour r&eacute;pondre aux contraintes op&eacute;rationnelles des plongeurs-d&eacute;mineurs fran&ccedil;ais, la Grands Fonds adopte la couronne &agrave; 6 h, un bo&icirc;tier monobloc et des solutions maison comme l&rsquo;ECS (Easy Clean System) et le CPS (Crown Protection System). Dans la pratique, la couronne &agrave; 6 h et le CPS emp&ecirc;chent de porter la montre si la couronne n&rsquo;est pas parfaitement viss&eacute;e, limitant ainsi les risques d&rsquo;erreur avant immersion ; l&rsquo;ECS facilite le rin&ccedil;age pour &eacute;viter la cristallisation du sel sous la lunette.
<h3>Grands Fonds et d&eacute;clinaisons contemporaines</h3>
La collection actuelle d&eacute;cline l&rsquo;ADN historique (lisibilit&eacute;, ergonomie de terrain, silhouette &laquo; outil &raquo;) en plusieurs tailles et niveaux de performance. Quel que soit le mod&egrave;le, l&rsquo;architecture et la signature &agrave; 6 h rendent la lecture imm&eacute;diate et l&rsquo;identit&eacute; instantan&eacute;ment reconnaissable.
<ul>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds MN64 &mdash; Hommage aux sp&eacute;cifications Marine nationale, codes historiques de cadran et de lunette.</li>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage&nbsp;&mdash; Gabarit plus contenu (38 mm) conservant la signature de couronne &agrave; 6 h pour les poignets fins.</li>
<li>ZRC Securicode &mdash; R&eacute;interpr&eacute;tation d&rsquo;un th&egrave;me de la fin des ann&eacute;es 1950/1960, avec &eacute;l&eacute;ments de style historiques.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Positionnement : outil pro, prix et distribution</h3>
La marque revendique un positionnement &laquo; instrument de plong&eacute;e &raquo; au sein de l&rsquo;horlogerie ind&eacute;pendante suisse, avec volumes de production non communiqu&eacute; et diffusion s&eacute;lective (d&eacute;taillants sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s et vente directe). &Agrave; titre indicatif, de nombreuses r&eacute;f&eacute;rences acier se situent autour de 2 500&ndash;3 000 &euro;, tandis que des versions techniques en titane d&eacute;passent 4 000 &euro; ; certaines &eacute;ditions sp&eacute;ciales ou m&eacute;taux nobles s&rsquo;&eacute;tablissent nettement au-del&agrave;. Pr&eacute;sence confirm&eacute;e en France avec des &eacute;taillants comme <a href="https://www.bijouterie-clouzeau.fr/fr/marques/zrc-1904">Clouzeau</a> ou <a href="https://www.berenger.fr/fr/horlogerie-berenger/marques/zrc-1904">Berenger</a>, et sur quelques march&eacute;s Asie/Moyen-Orient via un r&eacute;seau resserr&eacute;.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
ZRC s&rsquo;adresse aux amateurs de montres-outils au style imm&eacute;diatement identifiable, qui privil&eacute;gient la fonctionnalit&eacute;, la lisibilit&eacute; et une signature de design forte. Le choix se fera entre un usage polyvalent quotidien (Grands Fonds 300/38), une filiation historique appuy&eacute;e (MN64, Securicode) ou une approche plus technique et extr&ecirc;me (Grands Fonds 3000 Titanium). Les acheteurs sensibles &agrave; l&rsquo;ergonomie appr&eacute;cieront la couronne &agrave; 6 h et la s&eacute;curit&eacute; du CPS ; les puristes salueront la coh&eacute;rence d&rsquo;ensemble. Pour &eacute;clairer votre d&eacute;cision au-del&agrave; de la fiche technique, fiez-vous&nbsp;aux avis clients Dialicious, utiles pour comprendre confort, lisibilit&eacute; r&eacute;elle et ressenti au port&eacute;.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

ZRC is a watch brand founded in 1904 in Geneva, Switzerland, by Edmond Zuccolo and Joseph Rochet. Born in the field of pocket-watch chains and later expandable metal bracelets, the brand now caters to enthusiasts of iconic tool divers, made famous by its Grands Fonds developed for the French Navy from the 1960s onward.
<h3>6 o&rsquo;clock crown, monobloc case and French Navy spirit</h3>
Engineered to meet the operational demands of French Navy mine-clearance divers, the Grands Fonds features a 6 o&rsquo;clock crown, a monobloc case and in-house solutions such as ECS (Easy Clean System) and CPS (Crown Protection System). In practice, the 6 o&rsquo;clock crown and CPS prevent the watch from being worn unless the crown is fully screwed down, reducing user error prior to immersion; ECS helps flush out salt to prevent crystallization under the bezel.
<h3>Grands Fonds and contemporary variants</h3>
The current collection translates the historical DNA (legibility, field ergonomics, tool-watch silhouette) into multiple sizes and performance levels. Whichever the model, the 6 o&rsquo;clock signature ensures instant readability and an immediately recognisable identity.
<ul>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds MN64 &mdash; Core diver inspired by 1964, 300 m, bold legibility for versatile daily wear.</li>
<li>ZRC Grands Fonds Hertiage &mdash; Smaller 38 mm option retaining the 6 o&rsquo;clock crown signature for slimmer wrists.</li>
<li>ZRC Securicode &mdash; Reinterpretation of a late-1950s/1960s theme with historical design elements.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Positioning: pro tool, pricing and distribution</h3>
The brand&rsquo;s stance is that of an independent Swiss &ldquo;diving instrument,&rdquo; with production volumes not disclosed and selective distribution (specialist retailers and direct sales). As a guide, many steel references sit around &euro;2,500&ndash;3,000, while technical titanium pieces exceed &euro;4,000; special editions or precious-metal variants are significantly higher. Presence is established in Europe such as <a href="https://www.soprana.com/zrc-1904/?lang=en">Soprana</a> in Italy or <a href="https://junod-lausanne.ch/fr/collections/zrc">Junod</a> in Switzerland, and selected Asian/Middle-Eastern markets through a tight retail network.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
ZRC speaks to those who value immediately recognisable tool-watch design with functional clarity and a strong signature. Your choice will likely fall between versatile daily wear (Grands Fonds 300/38), an emphatic historical link (MN64, Securicode), or a more technical, extreme approach (Grands Fonds 3000 Titanium). Ergonomics benefit from the 6 o&rsquo;clock crown and CPS safety; purists will appreciate the overall coherence. To refine your decision beyond the spec sheet, rely on Dialicious customer reviews to understand comfort, real-world legibility and on-wrist feel.
(Updated August 2025)

The&nbsp;Grand Seiko SBGY, introduced in 2019, does not designate one individual model but a family of Grand Seiko references principally characterised by the use of a manually wound Spring Drive movement and a particularly pure approach to the dress watch. The first SBGY002 and SBGY003 references are introduced to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of Spring Drive and inaugurate calibre 9R31, capable of providing 72 hours of power reserve through two mainsprings arranged in parallel.
The family generally retains three central hands, no date aperture and a power-reserve indicator moved to the movement visible through the caseback, leaving the dial completely unobstructed. The SBGY line subsequently expands across both the Elegance Collection and Heritage Collection, using 38.5 or 40 mm cases, dials inspired by snow, Lake Suwa, dawn or the landscapes of Shinshu and different interpretations of the Grand Seiko Style.
<h3>Design &amp; legibility: a dial freed to let the seconds glide</h3>
The SBGY family is first distinguished by a simple but important decision: remove almost every indication from the dial that could interfere with observing the central seconds. There is generally no date, no dial-side power reserve and no additional complication. This construction allows the polished indexes, faceted hands and especially the Spring Drive seconds hand to become the principal visual elements. The perfectly continuous glide of the seconds hand above a deliberately restrained dial forms the most immediately perceptible signature of the SBGY family. Unlike a traditional mechanical movement whose seconds hand advances in small steps dictated by the frequency of its escapement, Spring Drive regulates motion without visible oscillation. The hand therefore seems to cross the dial without interruption, an effect that is especially striking over textured dials whose relief changes continuously with the light.
Grand Seiko uses this architecture as a privileged platform for dials inspired by nature. The SBGY002 evokes wind-swept snow in the Shinshu mountains, the SBGY007 the frozen ridges of Omiwatari on Lake Suwa, the SBGY011 the first dawn light entering the morning mist and the SBGY035 the red tones of an autumn sunrise over the Hotaka mountain range. These stories do not change the function of the watch but give each reference a very different identity. Dial texture therefore becomes the principal way of differentiating models that share the same calibre and often the same proportions. Hands, indexes and the logo are polished sufficiently to catch small points of light and retain good legibility even when the dial uses complex textures or very subtle colours.
Several SBGY watches use minute and seconds hands that are gently curved by hand towards the edge of the dial. This technique brings their tips closer to the peripheral markings and improves visual accuracy when reading the time. The hour markers receive sharply defined facets and polished surfaces alternate with brushed areas in order to remain visible without luminous material. Nighttime visibility is therefore not the priority on most of these dress-oriented models. Legibility depends on the quality of the metallic surfaces and their ability to capture light rather than on the use of Super-LumiNova. This approach is particularly consistent with the philosophy of the family: SBGY watches are designed to offer visual purity and fine detail that rewards close observation rather than the nighttime readability of a tool watch.
<h3>Case, bracelet and comfort: two principal architectures around 38.5 and 40 mm</h3>
A large part of the family uses a specific 38.5 mm case measuring 43.7 mm in length and 10.2 mm thick. This format notably accompanies the SBGY002, SBGY003, SBGY007, SBGY013 and SBGY035. Its profile is strongly curved, the lugs descend rapidly towards the wrist and the dual-curved sapphire crystal visually extends the dial. The 38.5 x 43.7 mm format represents the most traditionally dressy and versatile architecture of the SBGY family. Despite an exhibition caseback and a movement providing three days of autonomy, thickness remains close to 10 mm. The watch therefore slips easily beneath a cuff and its diameter works on a broad variety of wrists. Surfaces generally receive Zaratsu polishing together with extremely precise brushed finishing.
The SBGY009 and SBGY011 follow a different direction through a case inspired by the 1967 44GS. Diameter increases to 40 mm, length to 46.2 mm and thickness to 10.5 mm. The flanks become far more angular and broad polished planes provide stronger wrist presence. This architecture nevertheless maintains a comparatively low centre of gravity thanks to the slim 9R31. The 44GS case gives the relevant SBGY references a more graphic and architectural personality than the rounded Elegance-case models. It also provides a functional advantage on certain references: the SBGY009 and SBGY011 are water-resistant to 10 bar whereas several 38.5 mm Elegance models are limited to splash resistance or 3 bar.
Strap or bracelet choice varies substantially by reference. Early SBGY watches principally use crocodile leather with folding clasps, strengthening their dress-watch positioning. The SBGY013 introduces a nine-row steel bracelet into the Omiwatari architecture, considerably more flexible and visually shimmering than a conventional sports bracelet. The steel bracelet of the SBGY013 significantly changes the perception of this case by giving it much greater everyday versatility. At 116 grams, the watch remains reasonably light but has substantially more physical presence than the leather-strapped SBGY007 at approximately 68 grams. The 19 mm lug width common across the family offers slightly fewer universal strap choices than a 20 mm standard, but dedicated straps suit the thin case proportions particularly well.
<h3>Calibre 9R31: manual Spring Drive, dual springs and 72 hours</h3>
Calibre 9R31 is the most important technical common denominator of the SBGY family. Manufactured at the Shinshu Watch Studio, it uses energy from a mainspring like a mechanical watch but replaces the conventional escapement with the Spring Drive regulating system. Mechanical energy drives the gear train and then a glide wheel that generates the small amount of electricity required by the circuit and quartz oscillator. No battery or external power source is required. Spring Drive therefore combines entirely mechanical mainspring energy with electronic regulation capable of accuracy far beyond that of a conventional mechanical calibre. The result is stated accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month, approximately &plusmn;1 second per day, together with the perfectly continuous motion of the seconds hand that visually defines the technology.
The movement is manually wound through the crown and contains 30 jewels. Its Dual Spring Barrel contains two mainsprings arranged in parallel, allowing approximately 72 hours of reserve without greatly increasing movement thickness. The wearer can therefore fully wind the watch on Friday and still have part of the reserve available on Monday. Three days of autonomy makes manual winding substantially less demanding than on a traditional watch offering only 36 or 40 hours. The calibre also includes hacking seconds, stopping the seconds hand when setting the time. Combined with the high accuracy of Spring Drive, this allows the watch to be synchronised extremely precisely and then retain that synchronisation over long periods.
The 9R31 does have a power-reserve indicator, but it does not appear on the dial. Grand Seiko positions it on the large bridge visible through the transparent caseback. This arrangement is particularly consistent with the SBGY philosophy: the information remains available whenever the owner needs it but never disturbs the symmetry of the front. Moving the power-reserve display to the back preserves all the usefulness of the indication without compromising dial purity. The movement uses a large bridge with linear finishing, blued screws and several polished edges. Its presentation is more industrial than that of Micro Artist Studio calibres such as the 9R02, but it is sufficiently refined to justify the exhibition back and forms an important part of the ownership experience.
<h3>Chronological milestones and main models (2019&ndash;2025)</h3>
(2019) Grand Seiko SBGY002 Yellow-Gold Snowflake:
The Grand Seiko SBGY002 SBGY002 is one of the references that inaugurates calibre 9R31 for the twentieth anniversary of Spring Drive. Its 18-carat yellow-gold case measures 38.5 mm in diameter, 43.7 mm in length and 10.2 mm thick. The crystal is dual-curved sapphire with an internal anti-reflective coating and the transparent screwed caseback reveals the movement. Its white dial uses a texture inspired by wind-blown snow in the Shinshu mountains, explaining its frequent association with the Snowflake aesthetic. A blued-steel seconds hand glides silently above this surface. Calibre 9R31 provides 72 hours of reserve, 30 jewels and accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The watch is supplied on a brown crocodile strap with a yellow-gold clasp. Water resistance is intended for splashes rather than prolonged aquatic use.
(2019) Grand Seiko SBGY003 First Stainless-Steel Edition:
The Grand Seiko SBGY003 SBGY003 retains the architecture of the SBGY002 but replaces yellow gold with stainless steel, making the new movement technology substantially more accessible. Its case still measures 38.5 x 43.7 mm and 10.2 mm thick and uses a dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The white dial is decorated with fine linear detailing and receives a blued seconds hand. Manually wound calibre 9R31 provides approximately 72 hours of reserve through two parallel mainsprings and achieves average accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The power reserve remains visible only from the back. A black crocodile strap completes the watch and water resistance is 3 bar. Production is limited to 700 pieces worldwide and the reference is historically one of the clearest markers of the birth of the modern SBGY family.
(2021) Grand Seiko SBGY007 Ice-Blue Omiwatari:
The Grand Seiko SBGY007 SBGY007 rapidly becomes one of the most recognisable references in the family thanks to its very pale blue dial inspired by the Omiwatari phenomenon observed on Lake Suwa. When the lake freezes, ridges can form across the ice and local tradition associates them with the passage of the gods. Grand Seiko reproduces this appearance through an irregular texture crossed by a blued-steel seconds hand. The stainless-steel case retains a 38.5 mm diameter, 43.7 mm length and 10.2 mm thickness. The sapphire is dual-curved, the strap crocodile and water resistance limited to splashes. Manual calibre 9R31 provides 72 hours of reserve, 30 jewels and &plusmn;15 seconds per month. A weight of approximately 68 grams contributes to the especially light and dressy character of this version.
(2022) Grand Seiko SBGY009 44GS 55th Anniversary Edition:
The Grand Seiko SBGY009 SBGY009 combines the manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 calibre with a contemporary interpretation of the celebrated 44GS case. Produced for the fifty-fifth anniversary of the Grand Seiko Style, it measures 40 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm thick and uses a box-shaped sapphire crystal. The stainless-steel case features broad Zaratsu surfaces, angular flanks and a low centre of gravity. Its deep-blue dial is inspired by moonlight over the mountains of Shinshu and receives a continuously gliding seconds hand that strengthens the feeling of calm. Calibre 9R31 supplies 72 hours of reserve and &plusmn;15 seconds per month. Unlike several SBGY Elegance references, this model is water-resistant to 10 bar. It is fitted with a crocodile strap and limited to 1,500 pieces worldwide.
(2022) Grand Seiko SBGY011 Asaborake 44GS:
The Grand Seiko SBGY011 SBGY011 turns the formula of the SBGY009 into a non-limited model and uses a delicately textured white dial evoking Asaborake, the moment when dawn light progressively penetrates the mist over the mountains of Shinshu. Its stainless-steel case follows the 44GS design at 40 mm in diameter, 46.2 mm in length and 10.5 mm thick. The box-shaped sapphire has an internal anti-reflective coating and water resistance reaches 10 bar. The minute and seconds hands are gently curved by hand towards the peripheral markings. Spring Drive calibre 9R31 offers 72 hours of reserve, 30 jewels and average accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The watch weighs approximately 77 grams on its crocodile strap and is one of the most versatile SBGY models thanks to its higher water resistance.
(2022) Grand Seiko SBGY013 Silver Omiwatari on Steel Bracelet:
The Grand Seiko SBGY013 SBGY013 retains the case of the SBGY007 but changes its personality substantially through a silver dial evoking snow-covered ice on Lake Suwa and, especially, a nine-row steel bracelet. Its case measures 38.5 by 43.7 mm and 10.2 mm thick. The sapphire is dual-curved and the transparent screwed caseback exposes calibre 9R31 together with its power-reserve indication. The blue seconds hand strongly contrasts with the pale dial. The movement retains 72 hours of autonomy and &plusmn;15 seconds per month. Water resistance remains oriented towards splash protection rather than swimming. The nine-row bracelet consists of small rounded links that follow the wrist easily and increase total weight to approximately 116 grams, producing a substantially more solid feel than the leather-strapped SBGY007.
(2024) Grand Seiko SBGY035 Sunrise over Hotaka:
The Grand Seiko SBGY035 SBGY035 celebrates the twentieth anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive calibre family with a red gradient dial inspired by the Hotaka mountain range and autumn leaves illuminated by sunrise. Its darker periphery gradually brightens towards the centre while the texture evokes a rugged mountainside. The stainless-steel case returns to the 38.5 mm and 10.2 mm thick format associated with the Elegance lineage. Its crystal is dual-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating and water resistance is 3 bar. Manual calibre 9R31 retains 30 jewels, 72 hours of reserve and accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month. The watch is supplied on a reddish-brown crocodile strap with folding clasp and limited to 700 pieces worldwide. Above all, it demonstrates the longevity of the architecture introduced five years earlier.
<h3>Choosing the right version: case, dial, bracelet and use</h3>
To experience the family in one of its most emblematic forms, the SBGY007 remains a particularly coherent choice. Its 38.5 mm format, low weight and Omiwatari dial showcase the glide motion of the seconds hand exceptionally well. Its limited water resistance nevertheless requires greater care in daily life. The SBGY007 particularly suits someone seeking a dress watch focused on dial design and Spring Drive technology. It is less appropriate for someone wanting one watch to wear regardless of circumstances.
The SBGY009 and SBGY011 are more compelling for someone who appreciates the historical codes of the Grand Seiko Style. Their 44GS case is more angular, more reflective and slightly larger while retaining reasonable thickness. Ten-bar water resistance substantially increases versatility. The SBGY011 is probably the strongest choice for wearing an SBGY very regularly without giving up manually wound Spring Drive. Its pale dial remains discreet and its non-limited production also makes it easier to locate.
The SBGY013 is aimed at someone who appreciates the Omiwatari design but prefers a metal bracelet. Its nine rows produce a completely different sensation from crocodile leather and give the watch substantially more presence despite sharing the same case as the SBGY007. They also avoid the practical limitations of an organic strap in warmer weather. The steel bracelet makes the SBGY013 one of the most visually versatile interpretations of the 38.5 mm architecture. Its water resistance nevertheless remains that of a dress watch and should not be confused with that of the SBGY011.
Manual winding should be viewed as part of the pleasure rather than merely as an inconvenience. The 72-hour reserve means the watch does not need winding every day, while the rear-mounted indicator allows remaining autonomy to be checked quickly. The crown provides a mechanical interaction that automatic Spring Drive watches in the SBGA family do not provide in the same way. SBGY watches particularly suit enthusiasts wanting to combine Spring Drive accuracy with the traditional ritual of manual winding. Someone seeking a watch that can be ignored on the wrist for weeks will probably prefer an automatic Spring Drive.
Finally, the pre-owned market requires particular attention to the condition of the polished surfaces. Zaratsu creates extremely sharp planes and edges that aggressive refinishing can alter. The sapphire, exhibition back, hands and dial also deserve close inspection because restoration of these components can be costly. An example retaining sharp case lines and a proper service history is generally preferable to a heavily polished watch made to look new. Winding feel, hacking function and Spring Drive accuracy should also be checked. Other customers&rsquo; opinions are essential.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
The Grand Seiko SBGY is aimed at enthusiasts seeking an especially pure expression of Spring Drive, stripped of automatic winding, date and unnecessary dial-side indications. The family combines the ritual of manual winding with accuracy of &plusmn;15 seconds per month and a continuously gliding seconds hand impossible to reproduce with a conventional mechanical movement. The 38.5 mm models prioritise thinness and elegance, while 44GS-inspired SBGY references add more presence and, on certain models, 100 metres of water resistance. Interpretations of Lake Suwa, snow, dawn and the Shinshu mountains then allow the final choice to be guided principally by the emotional effect of the dial.
To learn more about Japanese watch brands, check out the ranking of the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">most popular Japanese</a><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_japanese_watch_brands"> watch brands</a>.
To compare finishing quality, comfort, accuracy and the pleasure of manual winding with extended real-world ownership,&nbsp;Dialicious customer reviews provide a particularly useful complement.
(Updated September 2026)

Olivier Le Gouj's review on his Grand Seiko SBGY

A marvel!

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Olivier Le Gouj's review on his Grand Seiko SBGY

A marvel!

Pros & Cons for this watch

Where to buy your Grand Seiko?

YOU ARE :

Other reviews published by Olivier Le Gouj

OrisArtelier

Glashütte OriginalSixties

ZenithDefy Skyline

MinaseUruga

Universal GenèvePolerouter Date

Customize your Grand Seiko with our selection of accessories:

Eagle Eye Watches

Iconic Switzerland

Oris
Artelier

Glashütte Original
Sixties

Zenith
Defy Skyline

Minase
Uruga

Universal Genève
Polerouter Date