Exaequo - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Exaequo is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1990 in Geneva; it rose to fame with “melting” watches directly inspired by surrealism, went dormant in the late 1990s, and has recently been revived in Switzerland (Ticino) with a collection that reinterprets its historic asymmetric design in steel, gold-tone PVD and 925 silver.

“Melting” forms and Geneva surrealism: an identity born at the turn of the 1990s

Emerging in the early 1990s within Geneva’s watch scene, the brand anchored itself in a surrealist imaginary where shape bends to a perception of time rather than to a strict circular geometry; that enduring tension between art and instrument still feeds its vocabulary today, because the proposal emphasises a “fluid” time readout over a rigidly symmetrical dial.

Through the 1990s, the company iterated this language with elongated cases pinched at the centre, high-contrast Roman numerals and domed crystals, while adopting an “accessible character watch” stance; distribution ran via European multi-brand retailers and fair showings, and the name has remained present on the secondary market where certain 1990s pieces draw steady interest, and that collector demand signals that the visual idea truly resonated.

The first life of the brand ended in the late 1990s amid legal questions surrounding the use of surrealist references; the label left storefronts yet retained a loyal following, so the “melting watch” kept surfacing in enthusiast discussions, and that visual memory largely explains the name’s recent comeback in catalogues.

Contemporary revival: a Swiss return with 925 silver, 316L steel and reimagined geometries

The reboot hinges on an official e-store, selective retail and a crisp brief: bring a style icon back to the wrist, updated through materials, dimensions and finishing, with industrial and commercial steering from Ticino; the offer is short and readable, aimed at those who want a non-conformist design that remains wearable day to day, and the promise sits at the intersection of conversation piece and easygoing object.

The 925-silver piece pushes the formal exercise: a multi-faceted solid-silver case (well over sixty edges), screwed back, stated 30-metre water resistance and a Swiss quartz calibre; it plays a near-manifesto role in the range with a numbered commemorative series and stark black/white dials that quote the original aesthetic without freezing it, and this edition bridges history and relaunch.

Alongside it, a sharper, more angular interpretation reworks the asymmetric theme in polished 316L steel or gold-tone PVD, with an elongated footprint around 51 × 33 mm, a lateral crown and a mineral crystal; the formal signature appears in pinched flanks and assertive angles, renewing the silhouette without betraying the “sagging centre” idea, and the goal is to preserve legibility while heightening wrist presence.

The 316L “Classic”: the pivot line that embodies the “compressed centre” drawing

The satin 316L line reprises the elongated shape with a centre pinch, a protective domed synthetic crystal, bold Roman numerals and a colour set (blue, black, white, green, gold) paired to tone-matched leather straps; the crown sits conventionally at 3 o’clock for intuitive handling, and the brief is a characterful watch that stays straightforward to set and wear.

This base offers PVD yellow-gold and PVD rose-gold finishes to maximise visual impact and a jewelled feel while keeping ergonomics and the two-hand display unchanged; stated water resistance remains around 30 m — adequate for daily life (rain, hand-wash) — and the spec favours scratch resistance and portability over aquatic performance.

Mechanically the maison opts for Swiss quartz Ronda calibres, selected for stability in a non-round case with tight packaging; they drive hours and minutes without a central seconds hand, which reinforces the pared-back aesthetic and the dial’s “breathing space,” and this technical choice supports rate stability and minimal upkeep.

Structured range and use-case cues

The current collection reads as three pillars (faceted 925 silver, angular steel/PVD interpretation, and the “Classic” steel line) plus straps and a “melting” table clock; the intent is to cover three desires — manifesto object, statement watch, daily piece — without proliferating SKUs, and that clarity of range helps buyers orient quickly.

• Exaequo Polyhedron — 925-silver edition with multi-faceted case (60+ facets), screwed back, 30-m WR, Swiss quartz; commemorative limited run.
• Exaequo Revolve — asymmetric, angle-forward take with ~51 × 33 mm case in polished steel or gold-tone PVD, left-side crown on some versions, mineral crystal, 30-m WR.
• Exaequo Classic — 316L line “compressed at the centre,” domed synthetic crystal, high-contrast Roman numerals, five dial shades and leather straps; PVD yellow/rose variants.
• Exaequo Melting Clock — a table/shelf “melting” object that extends the look beyond the wrist (decorative companion to the watch).
• Exaequo Softwatch — a 1990s piece sought on the secondary market; direct heir to the original drawing, often quartz with plated cases.

Each has a clear role: 925 silver serves the manifesto/collector slot, the angular interpretation suits “expressive weekend” or bolder dress, and the steel line is the most approachable daily option; the clock acts as decor, and 1990s vintage pieces round out the universe with collector appeal.

Positioning, observed prices and channels

On pricing, the brand communicates mainly via its e-store and authorised retailers, without a complete public grid for every reference; in the secondary market, 1990s pieces surface at low-to-mid four figures depending on set/condition, while contemporary models are offered by official resellers across Europe (UK, Poland, France) — exact model-by-model brackets remain “not disclosed”.

Distribution blends direct sales (site) and partner retailers, with presence at multi-brand online storefronts; the reboot message highlights the “return” of a shape icon, Swiss manufacture and structured customer care (support, parts, correspondence), and this D2C/retail hybrid ensures both visibility and after-sales.

For vintage pieces, buyers should check 1990s boxes/papers and component coherence (hands, dials, buckles); it’s prudent to assess the condition of domed crystals and battery freshness, because such a distinctive shape will spotlight any scratch or hazing.

Materials, movements and manufacturing: what’s published, what stays “not disclosed”

Technical pages list satin/polished 316L steel, PVD yellow/rose finishes, 925 silver for the polyhedral piece, mineral or synthetic crystals depending on line, four-screw casebacks and a typical 3-ATM rating; timekeeping is handled by Swiss quartz (Ronda 762/751 depending on model) with lateral crown setting, and this framework prioritises robustness in use.

Contemporary design/assembly are announced in Switzerland, with an industrial operator based in Ticino and customer-service contacts in French-speaking Switzerland; detailed component traceability, annual volumes and the exact subcontracting split are not published — treat these items as “not disclosed”; practically, buyers should focus on wear-parts (crystal, strap, battery) and calibre references, and these are the levers that shape long-term ownership.

Morphologically the elongated proportions (about 47 × 28 mm for the steel line and roughly 51 × 33 mm for the angular take) deliver visual presence beyond their measured width; wear tends to favour leather or silicone straps with dedicated buckles, and material choice (steel, PVD, silver) dictates expression more than footprint.

Target audience and selection tips: context, size and degree of expression

The core audience mixes fans of non-conformist design, buyers drawn to cultural nods (surrealism) and collectors wanting an instantly recognisable shaped watch; decisions should start with use-case (daily versus event), then finish (steel/PVD/silver), and finally dial intensity.

For a no-fuss daily, the steel “Classic” checks the boxes (legibility, simple setting, leather strap); for a punchier stance the angular interpretation brings extra impact and, on some versions, a left-side crown; for an “object” purchase the 925-silver piece embraces the manifesto role — and in all cases, on-wrist trial is decisive because shape dynamics alter perceived size.

Owners of 1990s pieces should maintain domed crystals and renew gaskets; for the new series, attention should go to strap/buckle compatibility and spare-part availability via the official channel, and a preventive approach materially extends the shine of a shaped watch.

Conclusion

By reviving an iconic surrealist silhouette, Exaequo addresses both shaped-watch enthusiasts and anyone seeking a strong wrist statement. The tight, clear range offers three paths: a 925-silver manifesto piece, a sharper angular take, and a “Classic” steel line for everyday wear. Your choice will hinge on how much expression you want, where you’ll wear it, and your texture/colour preferences. To match the promise with real-world use — comfort, perceived finishing, strap quality — a simple guide remains Dialicious customer reviews.

(Updated August 2025)