Armand Nicolet - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

Armand Nicolet is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1875 in Tramelan, in the Bernese Jura, by master watchmaker Armand Nicolet; inherited by his son Willy in 1939 and revitalised in the late 1980s through an alliance with Italian entrepreneur Rolando Braga, the company now develops two complementary pillars: contemporary collections (J09-3 Date/Chronograph/GMT) and the O.H.M. line (“Original Historical Movement”) that restores and re-deploys historic Swiss calibres, with a focus on technical transmission and real-world wear.

Tramelan heritage (1875) and Italo-Swiss revival (1987): workshop continuity, father-to-son hand-over and new direction

The story starts around 1875 when young Armand opened his Atelier d’Horlogerie in Tramelan; by around 1902 the workshop was producing pocket watches with grand complications (minute repeater, full calendar, monopusher chronograph), artifacts preserved today in the brand’s museum; after Armand’s passing in 1939, his son Willy developed the firm as a major “T1” player (movement pre-assembly/finishing) in a region heavily specialised in ébauches; in 1987 Willy met Italian entrepreneur Rolando Braga, triggering a revival that merged Swiss technical rigor with Italian creative sensibility, so a clear timeline — 1875, 1939, 1987 — underpins the brand’s identity with documented milestones.

O.H.M. (Original Historical Movement): restoring UT, FHF and AS for limited-run Armand Nicolet L06, Armand Nicolet L09, Armand Nicolet L15

O.H.M. is the brand’s distinctive proposition: sorting, refurbishing and re-finishing period Swiss calibres (UT, FHF, AS, sometimes Venus) discovered as “sleeping” stock, then casing them in modern watches; the Armand Nicolet L06 derives from UT 176 (1951) upgraded as AN501, Armand Nicolet L09 houses UT 600 (1957) inside a robust titanium sports case in a numbered run, and Armand Nicolet L15 integrates an overhauled AS 1883 (1967) as AN0703A — each reference limited by the finite pool of original components; beyond charm, the point is a traceable, circular take on Swiss mechanics, meaning value here is as much cultural (historic calibres) as practical (wearable today).

Contemporary lineup: Armand Nicolet J09-3 (Date/Chronograph/GMT), current design and everyday legibility

Alongside O.H.M., the J09-3 family delivers a modern steel platform (reduced thickness, elevated finishing) offered as Date, Chronograph & Date, and GMT; the Armand Nicolet J09-3 GMT comes in at roughly 41 mm with an observed list of 2,550 CHF in a 2021 hands-on, pairing crisp legibility with refined ergonomics (steel or rubber strap, daily-life water resistance) and an urban aesthetic; the overarching idea is to supply a well-finished, easy-to-wear Swiss watch, so buyers can choose a heritage-forward universe (O.H.M.) or a modern register (J09-3) without sacrificing comfort. 

Design, materials and finishing: structured dials, titanium/steel and staged watchmaking décor

Across both families you’ll find straightforward legibility (applied markers, Super-LumiNova where relevant), steel 316L or titanium cases (L09) and often multi-level dials; O.H.M. pieces emphasise movement art — fresh bevels, perlage, stripes and re-gilded wheels shown through casebacks — while J09-3 references focus on wearability (proportions, thickness, bracelets) and contemporary colours; the net effect is a hybrid identity, heritage yet urban, where finishing serves clarity and comfort rather than gratuitous display.

Positioning, indicative pricing and channels: finite O.H.M. runs, relatively accessible automatics, mixed distribution

O.H.M. output is inherently limited (volumes capped by historic parts), which supports higher ticket prices and tight availability; contemporary lines (J09-3 Date/Chronograph/GMT) occupy the Swiss mid-tier with, for example, the Armand Nicolet J09-3 GMT seen at 2,550 CHF in 2021, while some aggregators cite generally higher prices depending on reference; distribution blends the official site, authorised retailers and online dealers; in practice, confirm warranty and service arrangements up front, because purchase peace of mind depends as much on the channel as on the spec sheet.

Who it’s for: heritage-minded mechanics, rational buyers and daily-wear seekers

O.H.M. clients want a watch animated by a rehabilitated historic calibre (UT, FHF, AS) with tangible cultural value; J09-3 clients lean toward a versatile, legible Swiss daily wearer at a measured budget; to orient yourself, start with the role (heritage or modern), then size/thickness and context (desk, leisure, travel), keeping in mind that the appeal here stems from balancing story, comfort and clarity.

• Armand Nicolet L06 — Manual small-seconds (restored UT 176), visible vintage charm, O.H.M. limited series.
• Armand Nicolet L09 — Sport/titanium, strong lume and legibility, restored UT 600 (1957); originally 450 pieces.
• Armand Nicolet L15 — O.H.M. automatic (AS 1883, 1967) re-worked, dress-leaning aesthetic.
• Armand Nicolet J09-3 GMT — Modern ~41 mm platform, clear GMT readout, indicative 2,550 CHF (2021).
• Armand Nicolet J09-3 Chronograph — Date chronograph with urban styling, same refined case architecture.

Service, longevity and care: O.H.M. specifics vs current-production movements

O.H.M. pieces require workshop expertise (period tolerances, occasional manufactured spares, careful adjustment) — the fair trade-off for a living heritage movement; J09-3 models, by contrast, follow more straightforward contemporary service pathways with easier parts logistics; in both cases, the brand emphasises client follow-up and operation traceability; for stress-free ownership, plan routine service and identify your nearest authorised centre, as real-world longevity depends as much on after-sales as on headline specs.

Conclusion

From Tramelan, Armand Nicolet charts a distinctive path: pairing crisp contemporary watchmaking with O.H.M. runs that return dormant Swiss calibres to the wrist. If you value tangible heritage, an O.H.M. L-series is compelling; if you prefer frictionless daily use, a J09-3 may suit better. Decide first on the role (heritage vs modern), then on size, ergonomics and access to service — and finally benchmark your shortlist against Dialicious customer reviews.

(Updated August 2025)