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The N, for Nautilus or Nemo, is the first watch from the Ukrainian-Singaporean micro-brand Horizon. Its founders, Fred Bekher and Sugi Kusumadi, are mad, as surely are all those who create a micro-brand out of passion. But they are truly obsessed.

The first models are all dedicated to the world of Jules Verne. And it's a success; it's not just a marketing gimmick (how many brands say, "Hey, let's release a blue version and call it '20,000 Leagues Under the Sea,' and a red one and call it 'Journey to the Center of the Earth'?"). The watch really makes you think Captain Nemo could wear it. The date is hidden, integrated into the 4 o'clock marker. This is one of their trademarks: visually integrating the date.
I hesitated when I saw this model offered on Kickstarter. I didn't own a dive watch. I don't actually dive, except for staying on the surface with a mask and snorkel. However, I adore Jules Verne's books; he truly is the creator of pop culture in the modern sense of the term, and many characters in his world of extraordinary voyages are every bit as compelling as James Bond, Indiana Jones, MacGyver, or Han Solo. I was hesitant, but then after seeing a prototype on a YouTube channel, I decided to support the project. It was far from simple, because between the pre-orders and delivery, there was the resurgence of Covid in China and the lockdowns we thought were over, followed by the military invasion of Ukraine, the capture of Kherson, and its bloody occupation. But the watch was finally delivered after nine months. Its thickness initially impressed me, but you get used to it, and underwater, I must say the effect is impressive; it's like a shaft of light. I don't take underwater photos, so I'd have trouble showing what I'm talking about, but it looks much better underwater with a ray of sunlight. Divers from Marseille and Iceland have photographed it extensively, but I think it's even better in person than in the photos.

The movement is a Seiko NH35, which is inexpensive and easy to find. That's not what makes the watch stand out. The case back, however, is unique. It depicts a diver discovering a Jules Verne book in a chest, all behind a sapphire crystal. The initial idea was to include a gold coin found in the ocean by Captain Nemo (to finance anti-colonial struggles). But that wasn't realistic given the limited budget (€400) and reasonable thickness (14.1mm). The result gives the impression of diving into this imaginary world.

The character of Nemo is complex. Jules Verne was inspired by a Polish nobleman whose family was ruthlessly massacred by Russian imperialist repression, and who now dedicates his solitary existence to revenge, relentlessly harassing the Russian fleet. His publisher, P.J. Hertzel, would later develop the character into a Native American devoted to exploring the oceans, financing the anti-colonial war, and waging war against the British fleet. Indeed, from today's perspective, this was a judicious choice in 1869; British decolonialism had been far more successful in the previous century and a half than Russian decolonialism, which was only just beginning. Nevertheless, Hertzel's position was not pro-Russian either. Just a few weeks after the publication of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, the Prussian War against France and the occupation of Alsace-Lorraine altered the perception of the world. The following year, in 1871, he identified the occupied territories and defeated France with Ukraine under Russian oppression, coinciding with the publication of Maroussia by the Ukrainian writer Marko Vovtchok, which he himself adapted into French. Maroussia was, in fact, a huge bestseller.

Captain Nemo, which means "nobody" in Latin, is nobody, just as Ulysses at the beginning of the Odyssey is nobody in the face of the Cyclops. Nemo literally means "not a man," "ne" being the prefix of negation and "hemo" an archaic form of "homo," meaning man. Captain Nemo is no longer a man because his pain, his anger at the mass murder he miraculously escaped, the imperialist repression that killed all his people without exception, means that he no longer has any connection with other men except those who have sworn him devotion and who form his crew. He is no longer a man, for he no longer wishes to live on land but underwater with the fish and marine mammals. He has become something indefinable, somewhere between monster and god; he can act malevolently, as in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, or benevolently, as in The Mysterious Island. In the 20th century, he would inspire the creation of superheroes like Captain Future or Captain Flam, or conversely, villains in the James Bond series. It's no coincidence that there are so many watch models named Nautilus.

The promise of creating a watch that evokes the world of Jules Verne without succumbing to Steampunk or mere marketing hype is fully fulfilled. The bronze case version is perhaps even more evocative, but I chose the steel version with the more classic Aegean blue dial. I added the rice grain strap, which suits it very well.

The hands are absolutely fantastic; they evoke the world of the Nautilus like no other. Of course, there is some difficulty in reading the minute hand in certain positions, which can be annoying and was corrected on subsequent watches (the Pilgrim and the Nemo), but this removes some of the charm of these Nautilus hands.

The music I would listen to with it would be Für Elise by Nautilus Pompilius https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTGGTLM05I4. The group's entire universe revolves around the ocean and its imagery. And Beethoven's Für Elise is an aspiration to the ideal, a love that is not of this world, and a universal work that absolutely everyone knows.

A romantic epic

Automatic watches weren't the most common type of Soviet-era production; they were thicker and heavier than manual-winding watches, even though winding a watch daily isn't exactly the most strenuous activity of the day.

This one, however, is relatively lightweight at 79g with a metal bracelet, measuring 42mm in width (including the crown) and 12mm in thickness. Its design, with English inscriptions, gives it a rather exotic look. There's a strong contrast between the chrome-plated brass case, the black dial, and the fluted gold bezel, which matches the crown.

The movement is a Poljot 2616.2H automatic, with 23 jewels. The soundtrack that comes to mind when I think of this watch is Machina Vermeni, specifically "Povorot," the band's iconic song from 1979 that describes a rally driver's race, turning corner after corner, the rhythm marking the steering wheel's movements as they anticipate what lies beyond the next turn. A metaphor from motorsport that represents life in the 1980s, a time of constant twists and turns and radical changes.

https://youtu.be/8SK1qaDCGVk?si=o6gMryEjvAWxLqew&t=23 Adjectives: roaring, automatic, contrasting, swaggering

One turning point after another

The simplest-looking watches aren't necessarily the most common. This one, the Luch 75349026-1801.1, is a prime example. Its dial is white with a minute track and elongated black Roman numerals, and it has only two hands, but the result is very successful. The case is made of chrome-plated brass, 36mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, with a snap-on steel case back.

As is often the case with Luch, elegance is combined with simplicity.

The movement is tiny, as you can see when you unclip the case back. The risk with a two-hand watch is that it can be flat and static, but in my opinion, there's none of that here. There's such a sense of tension on the dial that the seconds hand doesn't feel out of place. I can't quite explain why.

The soundtrack that reminds me of this unisex watch is 90s Britpop, specifically Elastica https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHlypG2kJuc
Adjectives: classic, classy, simple, clean



High voltage

If there's one thing that's certain, it's that I dream of watches that don't exist. But they correspond to sensations I've experienced in dreams or when recalling a memory: a painting from an exhibition, a piece from a concert, a moment from a trip. Ring watches, in this respect, are a powerful dreamlike device; they're on the finger, on the projective element of the hand. It's as if they're flying, as if they're obeying us instead of remaining demurely behind the wrist like wristwatches. Unfortunately, there are few ring watches available. I've always bought cheap Chinese knock-offs, quartz watches with hands, all the while dreaming of something of higher quality.

And now, after fifty-one years in business, Casio is offering G-Shock watches to wear on your finger. The design choice for this Nano DWN-5600 is to create a miniature G-Shock wristwatch, designed to give the impression of a wrist on your fingertip. This is what makes this watch so compelling, fun, but also so weak.

Its strength lies in its convincing design and meticulous execution. It's fun because it's truly quirky and amusing. Its weakness is that, ultimately, it wasn't designed to be a ring watch. Readability isn't the best; the time only occupies the lower half of the screen, with the upper half reserved for the mode: Dual Time or Chronograph. The pin buckle strap is there to mimic a wristwatch, but in practice, it's not very practical for a ring. The main drawback of a ring watch is that you often have to remove it to wash your hands. Previous models with elastic straps are probably better suited for everyday wear, although less fun.

Interestingly, by reducing the size of the watch, you make it much more visible, eye-catching, and striking. This even harks back to the origin of the French word "montre" (watch), referring to the time-telling device that is displayed, unlike in other languages where it's the object itself that indicates the hours, or the object that signals when to raise one's guard. Naturally, on the fingers, this is noticeable. And it can be a signal: when you want to indicate to someone that time is important, rather than wearing a chronograph that day to subtly convey this message, don't hesitate to wear a G-Shock Nano; it's even clearer.

Now, I know that the word "épatage" (impressing/stunning) that I used in the title doesn't exist in French, contrary to what people who don't speak French might think, at least in this sense. The verb and the adjective do exist, but not the noun; it's a truly remarkable phenomenon in itself.

The soundtrack to listen to would be "Tonight We Fly" by The Divine Comedy, a sort of Neil Hannon reimagining Marc Chagall's Above the City. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypeegdF7GyM

Adjectives: Fun, amusing, dreamlike, desirable, demonstrative, digital, ostentatious, stunning

Nano-show-off: how G-Shock wows the crowd

Fleux is a small Canadian brand that offers convincingly affordable neo-vintage timepieces. The brand name, pronounced "Flouksse," is a tribute to diving pioneer Henri Fleuss (1851–1933).

Of course, when we talk about neo-vintage, we find familiar elements from iconic watches in horological history, but the "neo" signifies something new, something fundamentally different. This model is entirely devoid of numerals or minute track. It's an abstraction: a black disc on a white background, divided into four sections by thin white bands. It could be Suprematism, abstract art. A Malevich or Mondrian dream. Even the bezel has no markings, just a simple dot; it's bidirectional, click-free, yet stable, allowing you to place a marker on the hour disc.

For me, it's a successful watch. It evokes a sense of déjà vu, a fleeting feeling of familiarity even if you've never seen it before, and simultaneously, a sense of novelty in its ascetic simplicity. It has the soul of a diver's watch, but mounted on a leather-Cordura strap. In fact, the strap is the only truly flawed element. It's a Spanish strap from Seaqual made from recycled material. It's too stiff and doesn't fit the wrist well. I replaced it with a black French Sibra strap, which is a much better fit. The domed crystal is made of Hesalite, which complements the overall vintage feel, but it does have the drawback of scratching easily. The FLX004 is the fourth watch from this young brand, concluding their efforts to revisit the skin diver aesthetic. It measures 39 mm in diameter and 14 mm in thickness (12 mm case + 2 mm crystal). The movement is a Seiko NH38A at 3Hz. The luminescent coating is Super-LumiNova C3 "Old Radium," which offers a superb contrast with the deep black of the dial.

The soundtrack could be the music of Panov Stelar, a patchwork of reminiscences yet a fully original work in its own right, captivating and invigorating: https://youtu.be/ljKdbYGO62Q?si=Zwk2WMfZYTt0jo8M&t=2041

Adjective: Dreamlike, classy, abstract, danceable, grounded, minimalist

The past revisited

Circula is a small German family brand that was resurrected a few years ago in the third generation. The models are quite well-crafted and there is an interesting community spirit around the brand. Customers are consulted on the choices made for the development of new models.

The Protrail is a military field watch released in 2022. It comes in 3 versions. Sand, Black and limited edition Black old radium. It is the latter that seduced me with its simplicity, going so far as to reduce the numbers to the four essential ones, its extreme readability in all conditions.

The case is quite massive (40mm in diameter and 12 millimeters thick for 100g with a leather/fabric strap) due to the anti-magnetic shielding. But the watch also knows how to be forgotten, it is black and even more than black, its color always fascinates me. It may be because it comes from the Black Forest or because it has a DLC (Diamond-like-Carbon) coating that gives it robustness.

Depending on the lighting conditions and the distance at which you stand, you can see the circular streaks in the center of the dial, which add a nuance in keeping with the brand name, which sometimes make you think of an old vinyl, a Chuck Berry record that you would put on the turntable. And there, daydreaming about old memories, you tell yourself that time is definitely passing and that you are already old. Chuck Berry is already dead and we don't play vinyl anymore, we are in another era. Making people dream of another era while being firmly anchored in the 21st century is the bet of Cornelius Huber who was able to resuscitate Huber & Co in Pforzheim at the time when he himself became a father.

This unclassifiable watch that I bought for a reason that I did not understand myself, I like it a lot, what is more this series limited to 99 copies and numbered and by the greatest of chances I came across my favorite number. The movement is a Sellita SW 200-1 Elaboré (COMPATIBLE ETA 2824), it has a discreet but clear noise at 4Hz. There is no date, so as not to compromise the antimagnetic shielding. Of course there are many Field watches that have a long military experience with which this watch is not really comparable, and yet it brings an air of freshness so pleasant.

A watch oxymoron, a clash of generations

This small mechanical wristwatch with small seconds from the Maslenikov Watch Factory (ZIM) is remarkable.
It has been used, the chrome-plated brass case type 321 has marks, the dial is spotted and slightly tarnished. And yet, it is a gold-colored dial with shiny indexes
The movement is an antique 2602, inspired by the LIP R-26. This one makes a frightening noise, listening to it in the dark, it reminds me of a giant pair of scissors blindly tearing through the darkness. The case is a small 28.5 mm without the crown.
It reminds me of the romance by Yuri Entine written for the legendary cartoon of the Bremen Town Musicians: the sun will rise. "The golden sunbeam was hidden by the veil of darkness...." It is a very classic song from the 70s, known and covered by almost everyone. The crazy hope of happiness in the torments of love, the dream of the dazzling morning sun in the middle of the dark night. Egor Letov's interpretation in the early 2000s is perhaps one of the most remarkable ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcw-7ryovXA ), at a time when the USSR had already disappeared, when the Soyuz Multfilm cartoon studios were more than a distant memory. Letov manages to make something personal and very fair from a hackneyed title. This watch similarly expresses a personality, the unexpected hope of a bright ray in the gloom of a banal model.
Adjective: paradoxical, unexpected, golden, encouraging, confident, banal, free, in love

The golden sunbeam hidden by darkness

La marque SYE [Start Your Engine] a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2020 par Arnaud Pezeron &agrave; c&ocirc;t&eacute; de Paris en France. La marque inaugure le Sport Tailoring au poignet. Elle propose des montres sport-chic de caract&egrave;re, fiables, ludiques et abordables inspir&eacute;es de l'univers de la m&eacute;canique auto-moto. La gamme comprend deux mod&egrave;les distincts, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_automatic_24">SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 </a>et la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_chronograph">SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
Cette marque embarque une innovation sur le changement du bracelet disponible en acier ou en cuir. La montre n'offre aucun espace entre le bracelet et la boite d&ucirc; &agrave; l&rsquo;absence de cornes, ce qui am&eacute;liore son confort et sa portabilit&eacute;.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre&nbsp;SYE&nbsp;?</h2>
La gamme SYE comporte deux mod&egrave;les disponibles sur le site de la marque : La SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 750&euro;. La SYE MOT1ON Chronograph est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 599 &euro;.
SYE est ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines montres par an tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une SYE qui vous correspond le mieux, les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises">Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont SYE fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2023)

The brand SYE [Start Your Engine] was created in 2020 by Arnaud Pezeron near Paris in France. The brand is introducing Sport Tailoring on the wrist. It offers sporty-chic watches with character, reliability, fun and affordability inspired by the world of car and motorcycle mechanics. The range includes two distinct models, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_automatic_24"> SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_chronograph"> SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
This brand has an innovation in changing the bracelet available in steel or leather. The watch offers no space between the bracelet and the case due to the absence of lugs, which improves its comfort and portability.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a SYE watch cost?</h2>
The SYE range includes two models available on the brand's website: The SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 is offered from &euro; 750. The SYE MOT1ON Chronograph is offered from &euro; 599.
SYE is independent and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an SYE that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including SYE.
(Updated November 2023)

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The golden sunbeam hidden by darkness

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