The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

One day, I will have it as a famous ad says! 
While browsing the aisles of the Besançon watch fair during the 24 Heures du Temps, I came across it, or rather, it got its hands on it ;-) For a few years, I had been looking for the strap for this model - in quartz version and white dial - and I hit the jackpot with this one... Self-winding caliber derived from the ETA 2824, tritium index that is starting to turn gold... all that with the original case and additional links... 

What more could you ask for? 

We can always quibble about the fact that 3 indexes (3, 4, 5) are broken and that the bezel is in its original condition... But that is exactly what I am looking for, a watch in its original condition - but not too much - and which has been eating away at my brain for years! The budget is certainly modest and Chrono24 presents them around €1,000. This is where, if you take the trouble, you can find cheaper and above all have a completely unexpected shopping experience... It's quite a story to buy a vintage watch.

What I like above all is its look, its line of purity, even simplicity, very 80s. The dial perfectly matches this clean aesthetic, almost brutal but whose curves make it feminine...

So, Porsche Design, it's not a Porsche, but is it a "real" watch? Let's look at the lineage of Porsche Design since its beginnings in the 70s, Porsche Design by Orfina, by IWC, by Eterna... so many monuments of the watchmaking industry at the service of a car manufacturer at the top of its art today but which was just as moribund as these Swiss brands at the same time!

The historical dimension undoubtedly weighs in my interest for this watch which combines interest in watches and cars... I could see myself driving a 928S MK1 with this Porsche Design... A waking dream for a completely different budget ;-)

Porsche Design by Eterna in the look of Porsche Front Engine

I bought this watch - reference 15300 - in 2016 to celebrate an important moment in my personal life. It was an eternity ago now as the watch market has evolved towards speculation. At that time the choice for this model was not so obvious given its high price (very relative compared to current prices) and the few watches manufactured.

Was it already a legendary model? I am not so sure. This watch symbolizes risk-taking in terms of design, whether it is watchmaking or not. It sparkles with a thousand facets and presents with its open case back a view of an Audemars Piguet manufacture movement reference 3120 with very neat finishes... in any case more neat than most - if not all - of the other watches in my collection.

Is this the most important watch in my collection? If we look at the range, we are clearly in the Haute Horlogerie segment... even though everyone can put what they want into it. From an emotional point of view, it is undoubtedly a very important watch but ultimately no more than the one I had when I was 30 or 40, for example. From a heritage point of view, it is by far the most important because it is valued at stratospheric prices. The moral is that it is a watch that I rarely wear and that spends most of its time in the safe, hidden from view. It is sad but it is only a matter of time before reason takes over so that I can enjoy it more often.

A symbolic model in many ways

This Glashütte Original holds a special place in my collection. It is the only model that holds its own against the Royal Oak in terms of caliber finish. The plate, bridges, and decorations of the oscillating weight are exceptional and probably superior - in my opinion - to that of the open case back of my Royal Oak 15300.

I bought it at auction without having tried it on at exceptional price conditions! I took care to have it serviced at the brand's boutique in Paris where my contacts had identified that it was going to be auctioned. A great start to my relationship with the brand that allowed me - a priori - to obtain a certificate of authenticity in good and due form.

Paradoxically, this is a watch that I rarely wear because it is a tad too big and does not sit well on my wrist! Am I deformed ;-) Surely not, but that's how it is... but as I don't sell watches, it has remained in my collection, to my great delight as an irrational enthusiast.

A caliber with exceptional finishes

It was with this TAG Heuer 6000 Series that I entered the wonderful world of mechanical watchmaking, on the occasion of my 30th birthday... It is one of the watches - if not the watch - the most important in my collection. In more than 20 years, I have loved it, adored it, hated it, abandoned it, to always find it again with immense happiness. Perfect size in 38mm, not ostentatious, no longer manufactured, symbol of an era when TAG Heuer had not yet been bought by LVMH. Even if I am not that much of a fan of new watches, TAG Heuer is one of the rare brands that I follow regularly on the occasion of the annual novelties. It is surely this one that gave me the taste for steel watches with very worked bracelets and different from the great classics of the market. Regarding its caliber, it is surely an ETA 2892 already very present at the time. Note that this version is COSC certified and interestingly, the same model exists without this certification!

The watch that started it all

I was lucky enough to be given this Zenith Elite HW for my 40th birthday… With Zenith, it’s a long story that began 10 years earlier when I was looking for a watch for my 30th birthday – ultimately the TAG Heuer Séries 6000 Chronometer which will surely be presented on this platform instead of a Zenith El Primero Rainbow –

I came across an ad for 800 euros for this ultra-classic Calatrava-type watch… I was hooked by the brand and then little by little by the model… We met up with the seller at the bottom of his office on the Avenue de la Grande Armée in Paris and we did a deal… I had just been bitten by vintage… But it was another passion that fell on me. And yes, my brother was going to give me a custom-made crocodile strap that would make me fall into leather goods!

Long story short, this Zenith has become over time my watch for major events. Ultra-flat and discreet, it’s a perfect combo for this kind of event… but I almost always wear it with its homemade red crocodile strap!

The beginning of another passion

What I like about Omega is diversity and the improbable! What is the connection between this Genève, a PLOPROF or a Seamaster Diver 300M? None! And yes, that's the beauty of Omegas from the 70s that go in all directions.

This watch is reference 198.0030 (198 meaning in particular that it is an electronic caliber in any case not mechanical). Omega has done everything in terms of movement and in this case it is the caliber 1310 working with a battery. The originality is the presence on the side of two small buttons allowing to advance the date or the day of the week and to move the minute hand. It is interesting to understand and use these buttons for the historical dimension but in terms of use it is quite fragile and not very practical!

Its look is great even if the case is a little damaged. I put a firecracker red strap on it to give it some pep and match the Omega logo presented in an original way at noon. The buckle is not original either but aftermarket probably made in Asia.

Morality, what is the point of having such a watch? I like Omega in its diversity and I am attached to understanding and identifying all the types of electronic calibers that accompanied the watch industry during its transition from exclusively mechanical movements to electronic precision. The 15 years from 1965 to 1980 were fantastic in creativity to try to resist the quartz ogre that will have swept almost everything away.

But let's not be mistaken, the watchmaking that we love today is also the fruit of the creative destruction of Quartz 👍

Another Omega Geneva, much more confidential

The Zenith brand was created in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland. A pioneer in Swiss watchmaking in the creation of a true vertically integrated manufacture, Zenith aimed to create the most precise watch of its time at the best price. Over the years, it has established itself as a benchmark for precision and expertise in many fields.
In 1899, the marque Zenith presents its first pocket chronograph and wins various prizes, including first prize at the Paris Motor Show. In 1911 Georges Favre-Jacot handed over management of the factory to his descendants, who named it Zenith, the name of the highest point in the trajectory of a star in the sky.
In 1920, Zenith launched its first wristwatches and continued its development until, in 1960, it purchased the Martel Watch Co. Nine years later, the brand gave birth to the El Primero movement, the first chronograph equipped with a rotor winding mechanism. central. This world first makes El Primero today the most precise mass-produced movement in the world, thanks to its balance wheel and its cadence of ten vibrations per second. Over the years, Zenith will sign numerous innovations. The company owns three of the largest movements: the El Primero integrated automatic chronograph, the 22-line manual 5011K and the ultra-thin mechanical Elite, all available with several complications, moon phase, dual time, fly-back.
After numerous buyouts, the company that owns the Zenith factory decides to stop the production of mechanical watches in favor of quartz. In order to save these calibers from destruction, Charles Vermot hid cams, cutting tools, presses and machines, while recording the production process in a small notebook, secretly hoping for the return of mechanical movements. It was only nine years later that Zenith returned to the hands of Swiss investors who revived the brand's mechanical movements such as the El Primero.
The range now includes models like the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/zenith/defy_skyline"> Zenith Defy Skyline</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/zenith/chronomaster_original"> Zenith Chronomaster Original</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/zenith/defy_extreme"> Zenith Defy Extreme</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/zenith/chronomaster_el_primero_open"> Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/zenith/captain_chronograph"> Zenith Captain Chronograph</a>.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Zenith watch cost?</h2>
The prices of Zenith watches sold on the brand's website vary between $6,400 and $194,900 depending on the models and finishes. As an example, count $11,300 for a Zenith Chronomaster Sport and $85,600 for a Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon.
<h2 dir="ltr">Zenith: A fantastic story that goes beyond the El Primero movement&nbsp;</h2>
Zenith is a brand owned since 2000 by the LVMH group, in the same way as the brands <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/tag_heuer">Tag Heuer</a>,<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/hublot"> Hublot</a> or<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/bulgari"> Bulgari</a>, and produces around 11,000 watches per year, all models combined. The reputation of the Zenith brand is illustrated by its presence in the ranking of<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_luxury_watch_brands"> Most popular luxury watch brands</a>. To choose a Zenith that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real owner experience.
(Updated January 2024)

I would love to have the same one in mechanical movement but it is much more expensive and thicker! This Zenith Port Royal chose me during a session on the Swiss site Ricardo. Sold as defective for a few Swiss francs, I immediately said to myself that it had found me. Having in my bag a few sharp watchmakers to operate these obsolete technologies, I was sure to get a good deal.

It thus joins my collection of typical 70s models with a very improbable look that has a beefy effect when I wear it. The thing that I like is the gap between the stylistic attributes of the watch (dial, hands, cases) very classic and the presence of a quartz caliber. The marriage of the carp and the rabbit. Its condition is correct but nothing more and would deserve a polishing done by a pro to bring out its absolutely magnificent drawn features.

Thank you Zenith

Zenith Port Royal? Too bad it's quartz

Ollech &amp; Wajs est une maison horlog&egrave;re suisse fond&eacute;e en 1956 &agrave; Zurich par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs ; d&rsquo;abord d&eacute;taillant puis acteur de la vente par correspondance, le duo a b&acirc;ti sa r&eacute;putation sur des montres &laquo; tool &raquo; robustes &mdash; plongeuses, militaires, d&rsquo;aviation &mdash; vendues aux particuliers comme aux forces arm&eacute;es, avant d&rsquo;orchestrer un retour au premier plan au cours des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec une gamme contemporaine qui r&eacute;active les signatures historiques.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse et la vente par correspondance&thinsp;: les d&eacute;buts d&rsquo;un label outil</h3>
D&egrave;s l&rsquo;ouverture de leur petite boutique zurichoise, les fondateurs s&rsquo;attachent &agrave; proposer des montres fiables &agrave; prix tenu, puis &eacute;tendent rapidement l&rsquo;activit&eacute; vers le courrier et les annonces sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;es, et cette distribution directe fa&ccedil;on &laquo; mail-order &raquo; deviendra l&rsquo;un des marqueurs durables de la marque.&nbsp;Le basculement d&rsquo;un r&ocirc;le de d&eacute;taillant vers la cr&eacute;ation de montres sous leur propre nom s&rsquo;op&egrave;re en quelques ann&eacute;es, avec des lignes d&eacute;di&eacute;es aux usages concrets (terrain, mer, cockpit) et une construction volontairement simple et r&eacute;parable, et l&rsquo;obsession est moins la &laquo; complication &raquo; que l&rsquo;endurance et la lisibilit&eacute;.
Dans les ann&eacute;es 1960, la diffusion s&rsquo;&eacute;tend aux bases am&eacute;ricaines et aux PX, o&ugrave; des montres militaires et de plong&eacute;e sign&eacute;es O&amp;W trouvent un public pr&ecirc;t &agrave; les &eacute;prouver en conditions r&eacute;elles, et cette validation par l&rsquo;usage contribue &agrave; installer l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;un outil professionnel abordable.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: la profondeur, la d&eacute;compression et l&rsquo;imaginaire des grandes eaux</h3>
Au milieu des sixties, la maison se distingue par des plongeuses d&rsquo;avant-garde dont la Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, pi&egrave;ce record annonc&eacute;e pour 1000 m qui cristallise l&rsquo;ambition technique de l&rsquo;&eacute;poque et installe le nom O&amp;W dans le paysage de la plong&eacute;e sportive comme professionnelle, et l&rsquo;association avec des partenaires sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s nourrit une esth&eacute;tique rationnelle et sans fioritures.
Dans la m&ecirc;me veine, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph introduit une lunette et une logique de lecture con&ccedil;ues pour accompagner la mont&eacute;e du plongeur et les paliers de d&eacute;compression, ancrant la montre dans un usage pr&eacute;cis plut&ocirc;t que dans l&rsquo;&eacute;vocation d&eacute;corative de la mer, et le cadran reste clair pour pr&eacute;server l&rsquo;instantan&eacute;it&eacute; de la lecture sous l&rsquo;eau.
Ces r&eacute;f&eacute;rences historiques, souvent cit&eacute;es et collectionn&eacute;es aujourd&rsquo;hui, ont fa&ccedil;onn&eacute; un langage fait de bo&icirc;tiers costauds, d&rsquo;&eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s s&eacute;rieuses, de bracelets adapt&eacute;s et de typographies contrast&eacute;es qui affleurent encore dans les mod&egrave;les actuels, et c&rsquo;est cette continuit&eacute; de &laquo; montre-outil &raquo; qui permet de relier le pass&eacute; et le pr&eacute;sent.
<h3>Relance contemporaine, ancrage helv&eacute;tique et cha&icirc;ne courte&thinsp;: le retour d&rsquo;O&amp;W</h3>
Apr&egrave;s avoir travers&eacute; la p&eacute;riode quartz et ralenti la cadence, la marque est reprise par Charles Le Menestrel et relanc&eacute;e &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec la volont&eacute; explicite de prolonger l&rsquo;esprit des origines plut&ocirc;t que de s&rsquo;&eacute;parpiller en s&eacute;ries cosm&eacute;tiques, et&nbsp;le bureau de cr&eacute;ation reste &agrave; Zurich tandis que l&rsquo;assemblage et les r&eacute;glages s&rsquo;effectuent dans le Jura suisse.
La d&eacute;marche privil&eacute;gie des mouvements automatiques suisses &eacute;prouv&eacute;s, une architecture de bo&icirc;te simple &agrave; entretenir, des &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s cr&eacute;dibles et des bracelets &agrave; la fois robustes et faciles &agrave; vivre au quotidien, et le cahier des charges reprend la triade historique : fiabilit&eacute;, lisibilit&eacute;, r&eacute;parabilit&eacute;.
La relance ne se contente pas de &laquo; r&eacute;&eacute;ditions &raquo; au millim&egrave;tre : elle propose des montres nouvelles inspir&eacute;es des usages historiques, rehausse le soin apport&eacute; aux finitions et met en avant un contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; par &eacute;tapes, et le r&eacute;sultat vise une modernit&eacute; pragmatique qui &eacute;vite le pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: familles actuelles et usages concrets</h3>
Les premi&egrave;res r&eacute;f&eacute;rences de l&rsquo;&egrave;re r&eacute;cente prennent la forme de montres d&rsquo;aviation &agrave; taille contenue, Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, qui relecturent les codes cockpit dans une bo&icirc;te polyvalente autour de 39&ndash;40 mm avec saphir et couronne viss&eacute;e, et elles ciblent une lecture instrumentale et une r&eacute;sistance suffisante pour le quotidien.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; plong&eacute;e, la maison propose aujourd&rsquo;hui la Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (ainsi que des &eacute;ditions anniversaires) comme incarnation contemporaine de l&rsquo;esprit Caribbean : valves, joints, fonds viss&eacute;s et traitements soign&eacute;s s&rsquo;additionnent pour offrir un instrument de mer moderne, et le cadran conserve l&rsquo;intelligibilit&eacute; qui a fait la r&eacute;putation de la lign&eacute;e.
En parall&egrave;le, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph revient sous une forme actualis&eacute;e, avec sa logique de lecture li&eacute;e &agrave; la d&eacute;compression qui en fait une plongeuse de caract&egrave;re imm&eacute;diatement reconnaissable au poignet, et cette signature d&rsquo;usage distingue le mod&egrave;le dans un segment satur&eacute;.
La famille Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron s&rsquo;adresse &agrave; celles et ceux qui veulent un chronographe &laquo; outil &raquo; lisible, fid&egrave;le &agrave; l&rsquo;esprit O&amp;W sans exc&egrave;s de complexit&eacute;, avec une ergonomie de poussoirs travaill&eacute;e et une &eacute;chelle claire pour structurer le temps court, et le dessin reste volontairement pratique plut&ocirc;t que d&eacute;monstratif.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; pilote contemporain, diam&egrave;tre contenu, saphir, r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau &eacute;lev&eacute;e, cadran tr&egrave;s lisible, usage &laquo; bureau-terrain &raquo;.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; variante d&rsquo;aviation avec autre signature de lunette et de marquages, m&ecirc;me esprit robuste.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; plongeuse moderne inspir&eacute;e de la Caribbean, &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute; pouss&eacute;e et lecture directe.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; plongeuse instrumentale &agrave; logique de d&eacute;compression, identit&eacute; forte au poignet.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; chronographe &laquo; tool &raquo;, cadran a&eacute;r&eacute; et poussoirs francs, lisibilit&eacute; du temps court.</li>
</ul>
Au-del&agrave; des noms, l&rsquo;important est l&rsquo;usage : pilote pour la lisibilit&eacute; &agrave; plat et la r&eacute;sistance aux chocs de la vie active, plongeuse pour l&rsquo;eau et la robustesse, chronographe pour rythmer les t&acirc;ches et les entra&icirc;nements, et ce d&eacute;coupage aide &agrave; choisir une O&amp;W en fonction d&rsquo;un sc&eacute;nario r&eacute;el plut&ocirc;t que d&rsquo;un simple style.
<h3>Signature &laquo; tool watch &raquo;&thinsp;: mat&eacute;riaux, mouvements, dimensions et bracelets</h3>
Les bo&icirc;tiers actuels privil&eacute;gient l&rsquo;acier, des traitements de surface sobres, des lunettes fonctionnelles et des glaces saphir, avec des diam&egrave;tres g&eacute;n&eacute;ralement compris entre 39 et 42 mm pour pr&eacute;server la polyvalence au quotidien, et le port&eacute; se veut stable gr&acirc;ce &agrave; des cornes ma&icirc;tris&eacute;es et des bracelets ajust&eacute;s.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; motorisation, la marque recourt &agrave; des automatiques suisses contemporains adapt&eacute;s &agrave; l&rsquo;usage intensif, certains r&eacute;gl&eacute;s ou certifi&eacute;s selon versions, et l&rsquo;accent est mis sur la facilit&eacute; d&rsquo;entretien par un horloger comp&eacute;tent partout dans le monde, et cette pragmatique m&eacute;canique refl&egrave;te la vocation utilitaire des montres.
Les bracelets &mdash; acier, textile de type RAF/NATO ou caoutchouc &mdash; sont choisis pour leur s&eacute;curit&eacute;, leur r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau et leur confort, tandis que les boucles et end-links sont travaill&eacute;s pour limiter les points durs, et la modularit&eacute; permet d&rsquo;adapter la m&ecirc;me montre &agrave; des contextes tr&egrave;s diff&eacute;rents.
<h3>Positionnement, prix, distribution et profils d&rsquo;acheteurs</h3>
O&amp;W occupe aujourd&rsquo;hui un segment &laquo; outil de qualit&eacute; &raquo; : finitions soign&eacute;es mais sans ostentation, fiches techniques coh&eacute;rentes, contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; serr&eacute; et communication ax&eacute;e sur l&rsquo;usage plut&ocirc;t que sur le prestige, et le rapport contenu/prix vise la cr&eacute;dibilit&eacute; d&rsquo;un instrument plut&ocirc;t que la posture luxueuse.&nbsp;La distribution m&ecirc;le vente directe en ligne et r&eacute;seau restreint de partenaires, comme <a href="https://bit.ly/4igLuis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Horel</a> &agrave; Bordeaux (France) ou <a href="https://bit.ly/4p27od0" target="_blank" rel="noopener">La Vitrine Horlog&egrave;re</a> en Belgique, avec un discours p&eacute;dagogique sur l&rsquo;h&eacute;ritage et les usages, et&nbsp;ce canal court facilite la coh&eacute;rence tarifaire et la relation avec l&rsquo;atelier.
Le public typique r&eacute;unit des amateurs de montres &laquo; &agrave; faire &raquo; plut&ocirc;t qu&rsquo;&laquo; &agrave; montrer &raquo;, des plongeurs loisirs, des voyageurs qui appr&eacute;cient la solidit&eacute; et des utilisateurs professionnels qui veulent un objet fiable et r&eacute;parable, et la marque parle &agrave; celles et ceux qui pr&eacute;f&egrave;rent la preuve par le port&eacute;.
<h3>Guide de choix&thinsp;: sc&eacute;nario d&rsquo;usage, lisibilit&eacute; et ergonomie</h3>
Commencez par d&eacute;finir l&rsquo;environnement principal : eau, cockpit, bureau-terrain ou sport chronom&eacute;tr&eacute; ; si l&rsquo;eau domine, une Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 ou une Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph seront naturelles, tandis que P-101/P-104 conviendront aux lectures rapides et aux cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s, et le chronographe Navichron servira aux temps courts et aux routines fractionn&eacute;es.
Validez ensuite la lisibilit&eacute; : contraste aiguilles/fond, taille des index, absence de surcharge, visibilit&eacute; de la minuterie et coh&eacute;rence de la lunette avec l&rsquo;usage r&eacute;el, et faites le test &laquo; un m&egrave;tre/un coup d&rsquo;&oelig;il &raquo; en lumi&egrave;re naturelle avant d&rsquo;arr&ecirc;ter votre choix.
Enfin, essayez la montre pour jauger l&rsquo;assise (corne-&agrave;-corne), la couronne dans la paume, la souplesse du bracelet et le tomb&eacute; g&eacute;n&eacute;ral avec vos manches et vos activit&eacute;s, et gardez la version que vous oubliez le plus vite une fois port&eacute;e.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs demeure identifiable par sa vocation d&rsquo;outil : des montres pens&eacute;es pour l&rsquo;usage, lisibles, robustes et suivies par une cha&icirc;ne suisse claire. Entre plongeuses h&eacute;riti&egrave;res de la Caribbean, pilotes modernes et chronographes de travail, la gamme s&rsquo;articule simplement autour de sc&eacute;narios r&eacute;els. Pour d&eacute;cider, partez de votre terrain d&rsquo;emploi, testez lisibilit&eacute; et confort, puis ajustez mati&egrave;re et bracelet ; vous obtiendrez un instrument pertinent qui vieillit bien. Pour croiser ces rep&egrave;res avec des retours d&rsquo;exp&eacute;rience, appuyez-vous sur les avis clients Dialicious.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs is a Swiss watch company founded in 1956 in Zurich by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs; initially a retailer and then a mail-order operator, the duo built a reputation on robust tool watches&mdash;divers, military pieces and pilot instruments&mdash;sold to civilians and service members alike, before orchestrating a modern comeback in the late 2010s with a contemporary range that revives the brand&rsquo;s historic signatures.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse and mail order: the beginnings of a tool-driven label</h3>
From their small Zurich storefront, the founders soon moved from selling other brands to shipping their own watches by post, and this direct &ldquo;mail-order&rdquo; route became a lasting hallmark of the company.&nbsp;The shift from retailing to making watches under their own name took only a few years, with dedicated lines for concrete use cases (field, sea, cockpit) and constructions that favoured simple, repairable mechanics, and the focus was less on &ldquo;complication&rdquo; than on endurance and clarity.
In the 1960s, distribution extended to US military PX stores, where O&amp;W military and dive watches were tried in real-world conditions by service members, and this usage-led validation helped cement the image of an affordable professional instrument.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 and Ocean Graph: depth, decompression and the great-waters playbook</h3>
By the mid-sixties the brand stood out with cutting-edge divers, notably the Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, a thousand-metre-rated watch that crystallised the era&rsquo;s technical ambition and lodged the O&amp;W name in both recreational and professional diving, and partnerships with specialist makers fed a rational, no-nonsense aesthetic.
In the same spirit, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph brought a bezel and reading logic tailored to ascent and decompression stops, rooting the watch in a specific task rather than mere maritime d&eacute;cor, and the dial stayed clean to preserve underwater glance legibility.
These historic references&mdash;often cited and collected today&mdash;shaped a language of stout cases, serious water-resistance, practical bracelets and high-contrast typography that still surfaces in current models, and this through-line of &ldquo;tool first&rdquo; connects past to present.
<h3>Contemporary relaunch, Swiss anchoring and a short chain: O&amp;W&rsquo;s return</h3>
After weathering the quartz era and slowing down, the brand was revived in the late 2010s by Charles Le Menestrel with the explicit aim of extending the founding spirit rather than scattering into cosmetic runs, and&nbsp;design remains in Zurich while assembly and adjustment take place in the Swiss Jura.
The approach favours proven Swiss automatic movements, serviceable case architecture, credible water-resistance and bracelets built for comfort and durability, and the specification re-embraces the classic triad: reliability, legibility, serviceability.&nbsp;The comeback is not a millimetre-for-millimetre facsimile exercise; instead, it offers new watches inspired by historic use, upgrades finishing and emphasises stepwise quality control, and the outcome is a pragmatic modernity that avoids pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 and Ocean Graph: today&rsquo;s families and real use</h3>
The first modern releases took the form of compact pilot watches, the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, which reinterpret cockpit codes in versatile 39&ndash;40 mm cases with sapphire and screw-down crowns, and they target instrumental reading and all-day resilience.
On the dive side, the brand offers the Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (along with anniversary editions) as a contemporary take on the Caribbean ethos: seals, casebacks, and careful treatment combine into a modern sea instrument, and the dial retains the intelligibility that made the line&rsquo;s reputation.
In parallel, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph returned in an updated form, with its decompression-centred readout making for an instantly recognisable diver on the wrist, and this task-specific signature sets it apart in a crowded segment.
The Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron family serves those who want a readable, work-ready chronograph true to the O&amp;W spirit, with well-judged pushers and crisp scales for short-time duties, and the design stays deliberately practical rather than showy.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; contemporary pilot, compact diameter, sapphire, strong water-resistance, very legible dial for desk-to-field wear.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; aviation variant with a different bezel and markings signature, same robust intent.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; modern diver inspired by the Caribbean, serious water-proofing and direct readout.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; instrumental diver with decompression logic, strong identity on the wrist.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; &ldquo;tool&rdquo; chronograph, open dial and assertive pushers, clarity in short-time work.</li>
</ul>
Beyond names, what matters is use: a pilot for flat-plane readability and shock tolerance in active life; a diver for water and sturdiness; a chronograph to pace tasks and training, and this split helps pick an O&amp;W by real scenario rather than by style alone.
<h3>Tool-watch signature: materials, movements, dimensions and straps</h3>
Current cases prioritise steel, sober surface treatments, functional bezels and sapphire crystals, with diameters largely between 39 and 42 mm to sustain daily versatility, and on-wrist stability comes from disciplined lug spans and well-matched bracelets.
Mechanically, the brand uses modern, Swiss automatic calibres suited to intensive use&mdash;some adjusted or certified depending on versions&mdash;while ensuring that any competent watchmaker can service them, and this pragmatic mechanics reflects the utilitarian brief.
Bracelets&mdash;steel, RAF/NATO-type textile or rubber&mdash;are chosen for security, water-readiness and comfort, with buckles and end-links designed to minimise hot-spots, and modularity lets a single watch adapt to very different contexts.
<h3>Positioning, prices, channels and buyer profiles</h3>
O&amp;W sits in a &ldquo;quality tool&rdquo; segment: tidy finishing without ostentation, coherent spec sheets, tight quality control and messaging anchored in use rather than prestige, and the value proposition seeks instrument credibility rather than luxury posturing.
Distribution blends direct online sales with a small partner network and a didactic narrative about heritage and use, and this short channel supports coherent pricing and a clear link to the workshop.&nbsp;The core audience mixes owners who prefer watches to &ldquo;do&rdquo; rather than to &ldquo;show,&rdquo; recreational divers, travellers who prize sturdiness and professionals who need reliable, serviceable objects, and the brand resonates with those who trust proof of wear over glossy claims.
<h3>Selection guide: use case, legibility and ergonomics</h3>
Start by mapping your main environment&mdash;water, cockpit, desk-to-field or timed sport; if water rules, a Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 or Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph is natural, whereas P-101/P-104 suit quick, uncluttered reads, and the Navichron chronograph serves intervals and structured routines.
Next validate legibility: hand-to-dial contrast, index size, minimal clutter, minute track visibility and bezel logic that matches how you actually use it, and run the &ldquo;one-metre/one-glance&rdquo; test in natural light before deciding.
Finally, try the watch to judge stance (lug-to-lug), crown feel in the palm, bracelet suppleness and how it sits with sleeves and tasks, and keep the version you forget the fastest once strapped on.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs remains identifiable by its purpose-built vocation: watches made for use&mdash;readable, robust and supported by a clear Swiss chain. Between divers that channel the Caribbean legacy, modern pilot pieces and work-ready chronographs, the range is organised simply around real-world scenarios. To choose well, start with where you&rsquo;ll wear it, test clarity and comfort, then tune material and strap; you&rsquo;ll land on a capable instrument that ages well. To square these cues with long-term ownership feedback, a helpful compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated August 2025)

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