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The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Raketa is known for its 24-hour movements. This one is a bit special since it is associated with an inner bezel on which the main time zones are represented. But the language used is English and the city for CET is neither Berlin nor Paris but Geneva. In addition, on a lower circle are represented the Antarctic bases, the Antarctic continent having all the time zones, even if on some no bases are built. 
What I really like, besides this internal crown of universal time, is the night version which gives an extreme delicacy. Often the Raketa models were offered in two versions, day (white dial) and night (black dial). The thin white hands moving on the black dial always give me an impression of hushed delicacy. Added to this is the caseback number 333 that the seller from the far north assured was a message from the archangel Gabriel, a message of joy, peace and love, even if I don't know if this number is original, it doesn't hurt to wear such a number. The dial only represents the indexes of even hours and indicates odd hours with 24-minute sub-indexes (1/60 of the turn of the small hand) and 1/60 of the turn of the large hand which turns in one hour and therefore each sub-index for the large hand corresponds to one minute like all watches). Midnight being at the top of the dial and noon at the bottom. This may seem unusual as a way of doing things but in fact it is very practical to use.
The case is made of chrome-plated brass with a diameter of 38mm and a stainless steel caseback. The movement is a 2623N 24 Hours which is known to be robust and reliable.
In the end it's a watch that I really appreciate
Adjectives: Delicate, cosmopolitan, universal, soft, celestial, planetary, elegant, extreme, angelic, practical

White-gloved night traveler

The 901609 is a true classic for lovers of minimalist designs. It has just the right elements: twelve Arabic numerals, a minute track limited to the markers, three slim black hands, and a Luch logo in script. This strong contrast ensures excellent legibility. Some models even offer dial customization.

The movement is a 23-jewel Luch 2209, notable for its orange-yellow hue. The case measures 34 mm excluding the crown. It's a round, chrome-plated brass case with a snap-on steel case back bearing the Soviet quality mark and a serial number.

It's a very simple and successful model, although I'm not entirely happy about the occasional loss of the plexiglass crystal on my example.

The music I would associate with this model is Beethoven's Symphony No. 7, rearranged for piano by Paul Lay—a gravity that reveals an unexpected lightness, or perhaps the other way around. https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Sfm0OFYJEd0&si

Agile gravity

This model stands out thanks to its curved case, free of sharp edges, and its mesmerizing dial. The case is made of chrome-plated brass with a screw-down steel case back. It measures 33mm in diameter, or 35mm including the crown. The crown is easy to grip and wind. The case measures only 34mm lug to lug, yet it appears much larger. This is likely due to the highly legible dial and hands. The halo gradient creates a luminous effect, as do the large numerals in a stylized font that suggests movement or the sounds of brass instruments. The wide, two-tone hands immediately catch the eye. The numerals are large yet discreet, even blending into the halo depending on the dial's angle. The movement is a highly reliable and emblematic 2609NA from the Petrodvorets factory. It's a very successful, bold, and captivating model.

The song I would listen to with it would be Katzapy by Tik https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh_Af3gH42A

The hour of freedom

This 1970s model 611291 is classic and utterly simple. It features a 16-jewel caliber 2609NA movement. The round, chrome-plated brass case, type 613, has a snap-on steel case back and measures 34 mm in diameter and 12 mm in thickness. The dial is white with stylized black numerals and black hands. A dotted minute track is interrupted by the inscription "Made in the USSR" at 6 o'clock. The contrast is excellent, resulting in superb legibility.

What this watch evokes for me in its simplicity are the ghosts of the past, the etched memories we had forgotten in the modern world. The music that accompanies it would be the bird from the series Belle and Sebastian, whether in the original version with its rich text and childlike voice with this magnificent realization of R that we no longer hear so often (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xc-yG06NPq0), or in the modern, more refined version with ZAZ giving pride of place to the piano (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYcXLPrDVEw).

I know the clear mists, the pink snow of early mornings

The N, for Nautilus or Nemo, is the first watch from the Ukrainian-Singaporean micro-brand Horizon. Its founders, Fred Bekher and Sugi Kusumadi, are mad, as surely are all those who create a micro-brand out of passion. But they are truly obsessed.

The first models are all dedicated to the world of Jules Verne. And it's a success; it's not just a marketing gimmick (how many brands say, "Hey, let's release a blue version and call it '20,000 Leagues Under the Sea,' and a red one and call it 'Journey to the Center of the Earth'?"). The watch really makes you think Captain Nemo could wear it. The date is hidden, integrated into the 4 o'clock marker. This is one of their trademarks: visually integrating the date.
I hesitated when I saw this model offered on Kickstarter. I didn't own a dive watch. I don't actually dive, except for staying on the surface with a mask and snorkel. However, I adore Jules Verne's books; he truly is the creator of pop culture in the modern sense of the term, and many characters in his world of extraordinary voyages are every bit as compelling as James Bond, Indiana Jones, MacGyver, or Han Solo. I was hesitant, but then after seeing a prototype on a YouTube channel, I decided to support the project. It was far from simple, because between the pre-orders and delivery, there was the resurgence of Covid in China and the lockdowns we thought were over, followed by the military invasion of Ukraine, the capture of Kherson, and its bloody occupation. But the watch was finally delivered after nine months. Its thickness initially impressed me, but you get used to it, and underwater, I must say the effect is impressive; it's like a shaft of light. I don't take underwater photos, so I'd have trouble showing what I'm talking about, but it looks much better underwater with a ray of sunlight. Divers from Marseille and Iceland have photographed it extensively, but I think it's even better in person than in the photos.

The movement is a Seiko NH35, which is inexpensive and easy to find. That's not what makes the watch stand out. The case back, however, is unique. It depicts a diver discovering a Jules Verne book in a chest, all behind a sapphire crystal. The initial idea was to include a gold coin found in the ocean by Captain Nemo (to finance anti-colonial struggles). But that wasn't realistic given the limited budget (€400) and reasonable thickness (14.1mm). The result gives the impression of diving into this imaginary world.

The character of Nemo is complex. Jules Verne was inspired by a Polish nobleman whose family was ruthlessly massacred by Russian imperialist repression, and who now dedicates his solitary existence to revenge, relentlessly harassing the Russian fleet. His publisher, P.J. Hertzel, would later develop the character into a Native American devoted to exploring the oceans, financing the anti-colonial war, and waging war against the British fleet. Indeed, from today's perspective, this was a judicious choice in 1869; British decolonialism had been far more successful in the previous century and a half than Russian decolonialism, which was only just beginning. Nevertheless, Hertzel's position was not pro-Russian either. Just a few weeks after the publication of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, the Prussian War against France and the occupation of Alsace-Lorraine altered the perception of the world. The following year, in 1871, he identified the occupied territories and defeated France with Ukraine under Russian oppression, coinciding with the publication of Maroussia by the Ukrainian writer Marko Vovtchok, which he himself adapted into French. Maroussia was, in fact, a huge bestseller.

Captain Nemo, which means "nobody" in Latin, is nobody, just as Ulysses at the beginning of the Odyssey is nobody in the face of the Cyclops. Nemo literally means "not a man," "ne" being the prefix of negation and "hemo" an archaic form of "homo," meaning man. Captain Nemo is no longer a man because his pain, his anger at the mass murder he miraculously escaped, the imperialist repression that killed all his people without exception, means that he no longer has any connection with other men except those who have sworn him devotion and who form his crew. He is no longer a man, for he no longer wishes to live on land but underwater with the fish and marine mammals. He has become something indefinable, somewhere between monster and god; he can act malevolently, as in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, or benevolently, as in The Mysterious Island. In the 20th century, he would inspire the creation of superheroes like Captain Future or Captain Flam, or conversely, villains in the James Bond series. It's no coincidence that there are so many watch models named Nautilus.

The promise of creating a watch that evokes the world of Jules Verne without succumbing to Steampunk or mere marketing hype is fully fulfilled. The bronze case version is perhaps even more evocative, but I chose the steel version with the more classic Aegean blue dial. I added the rice grain strap, which suits it very well.

The hands are absolutely fantastic; they evoke the world of the Nautilus like no other. Of course, there is some difficulty in reading the minute hand in certain positions, which can be annoying and was corrected on subsequent watches (the Pilgrim and the Nemo), but this removes some of the charm of these Nautilus hands.

The music I would listen to with it would be Für Elise by Nautilus Pompilius https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTGGTLM05I4. The group's entire universe revolves around the ocean and its imagery. And Beethoven's Für Elise is an aspiration to the ideal, a love that is not of this world, and a universal work that absolutely everyone knows.

A romantic epic

Automatic watches weren't the most common type of Soviet-era production; they were thicker and heavier than manual-winding watches, even though winding a watch daily isn't exactly the most strenuous activity of the day.

This one, however, is relatively lightweight at 79g with a metal bracelet, measuring 42mm in width (including the crown) and 12mm in thickness. Its design, with English inscriptions, gives it a rather exotic look. There's a strong contrast between the chrome-plated brass case, the black dial, and the fluted gold bezel, which matches the crown.

The movement is a Poljot 2616.2H automatic, with 23 jewels. The soundtrack that comes to mind when I think of this watch is Machina Vermeni, specifically "Povorot," the band's iconic song from 1979 that describes a rally driver's race, turning corner after corner, the rhythm marking the steering wheel's movements as they anticipate what lies beyond the next turn. A metaphor from motorsport that represents life in the 1980s, a time of constant twists and turns and radical changes.

https://youtu.be/8SK1qaDCGVk?si=o6gMryEjvAWxLqew&t=23 Adjectives: roaring, automatic, contrasting, swaggering

One turning point after another

Boris Grebenshikov, City of Gold soundtrack
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WKzDD-SJBU

The distinctive feature of this 1990s watch is that it is entirely gold-plated. Not only the dial and hands, but also the bezel and case. Only the caseback is made of steel, a screw-down caseback. It has been worn relatively little, given that it was given as a gift somewhere in Ukraine or Belarus on July 17, 1999, and it is a bit conspicuous to be worn if you didn't choose it yourself.
The numerals are interesting because they seem to escape from the center in the direction of the centrifugal force, as on the bezel, except for the 6, of course, because that would be confusing, since an inverted 6 is a 9.
The movement is marked with a double pennant, which is the logo of the Vympel brand from the Belarusian city of Vitebsk. The watch evokes an unattainable and desirable ideal that hovered over the late 1990s. Hence the famous song, almost a prayer, by Boris Borisovitch, set to this melody, falsely said to be from the Middle Ages, about an ideal and fabulous world of the transparent city of gold. It is not a simple watch; it is a prayer, a call for peace, beauty, and love.
Adjective: ideal, metaphysical, dreamlike, historical

A prayer, an ideal

La marque SYE [Start Your Engine] a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2020 par Arnaud Pezeron &agrave; c&ocirc;t&eacute; de Paris en France. La marque inaugure le Sport Tailoring au poignet. Elle propose des montres sport-chic de caract&egrave;re, fiables, ludiques et abordables inspir&eacute;es de l'univers de la m&eacute;canique auto-moto. La gamme comprend deux mod&egrave;les distincts, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_automatic_24">SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 </a>et la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_chronograph">SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
Cette marque embarque une innovation sur le changement du bracelet disponible en acier ou en cuir. La montre n'offre aucun espace entre le bracelet et la boite d&ucirc; &agrave; l&rsquo;absence de cornes, ce qui am&eacute;liore son confort et sa portabilit&eacute;.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre&nbsp;SYE&nbsp;?</h2>
La gamme SYE comporte deux mod&egrave;les disponibles sur le site de la marque : La SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 750&euro;. La SYE MOT1ON Chronograph est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 599 &euro;.
SYE est ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines montres par an tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une SYE qui vous correspond le mieux, les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises">Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont SYE fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2023)

The brand SYE [Start Your Engine] was created in 2020 by Arnaud Pezeron near Paris in France. The brand is introducing Sport Tailoring on the wrist. It offers sporty-chic watches with character, reliability, fun and affordability inspired by the world of car and motorcycle mechanics. The range includes two distinct models, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_automatic_24"> SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_chronograph"> SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
This brand has an innovation in changing the bracelet available in steel or leather. The watch offers no space between the bracelet and the case due to the absence of lugs, which improves its comfort and portability.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a SYE watch cost?</h2>
The SYE range includes two models available on the brand's website: The SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 is offered from &euro; 750. The SYE MOT1ON Chronograph is offered from &euro; 599.
SYE is independent and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an SYE that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including SYE.
(Updated November 2023)

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