The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

The simplest-looking watches aren't necessarily the most common. This one, the Luch 75349026-1801.1, is a prime example. Its dial is white with a minute track and elongated black Roman numerals, and it has only two hands, but the result is very successful. The case is made of chrome-plated brass, 36mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, with a snap-on steel case back.

As is often the case with Luch, elegance is combined with simplicity.

The movement is tiny, as you can see when you unclip the case back. The risk with a two-hand watch is that it can be flat and static, but in my opinion, there's none of that here. There's such a sense of tension on the dial that the seconds hand doesn't feel out of place. I can't quite explain why.

The soundtrack that reminds me of this unisex watch is 90s Britpop, specifically Elastica https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHlypG2kJuc
Adjectives: classic, classy, simple, clean



High voltage

If there's one thing that's certain, it's that I dream of watches that don't exist. But they correspond to sensations I've experienced in dreams or when recalling a memory: a painting from an exhibition, a piece from a concert, a moment from a trip. Ring watches, in this respect, are a powerful dreamlike device; they're on the finger, on the projective element of the hand. It's as if they're flying, as if they're obeying us instead of remaining demurely behind the wrist like wristwatches. Unfortunately, there are few ring watches available. I've always bought cheap Chinese knock-offs, quartz watches with hands, all the while dreaming of something of higher quality.

And now, after fifty-one years in business, Casio is offering G-Shock watches to wear on your finger. The design choice for this Nano DWN-5600 is to create a miniature G-Shock wristwatch, designed to give the impression of a wrist on your fingertip. This is what makes this watch so compelling, fun, but also so weak.

Its strength lies in its convincing design and meticulous execution. It's fun because it's truly quirky and amusing. Its weakness is that, ultimately, it wasn't designed to be a ring watch. Readability isn't the best; the time only occupies the lower half of the screen, with the upper half reserved for the mode: Dual Time or Chronograph. The pin buckle strap is there to mimic a wristwatch, but in practice, it's not very practical for a ring. The main drawback of a ring watch is that you often have to remove it to wash your hands. Previous models with elastic straps are probably better suited for everyday wear, although less fun.

Interestingly, by reducing the size of the watch, you make it much more visible, eye-catching, and striking. This even harks back to the origin of the French word "montre" (watch), referring to the time-telling device that is displayed, unlike in other languages where it's the object itself that indicates the hours, or the object that signals when to raise one's guard. Naturally, on the fingers, this is noticeable. And it can be a signal: when you want to indicate to someone that time is important, rather than wearing a chronograph that day to subtly convey this message, don't hesitate to wear a G-Shock Nano; it's even clearer.

Now, I know that the word "épatage" (impressing/stunning) that I used in the title doesn't exist in French, contrary to what people who don't speak French might think, at least in this sense. The verb and the adjective do exist, but not the noun; it's a truly remarkable phenomenon in itself.

The soundtrack to listen to would be "Tonight We Fly" by The Divine Comedy, a sort of Neil Hannon reimagining Marc Chagall's Above the City. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypeegdF7GyM

Adjectives: Fun, amusing, dreamlike, desirable, demonstrative, digital, ostentatious, stunning

Nano-show-off: how G-Shock wows the crowd

Fleux is a small Canadian brand that offers convincingly affordable neo-vintage timepieces. The brand name, pronounced "Flouksse," is a tribute to diving pioneer Henri Fleuss (1851–1933).

Of course, when we talk about neo-vintage, we find familiar elements from iconic watches in horological history, but the "neo" signifies something new, something fundamentally different. This model is entirely devoid of numerals or minute track. It's an abstraction: a black disc on a white background, divided into four sections by thin white bands. It could be Suprematism, abstract art. A Malevich or Mondrian dream. Even the bezel has no markings, just a simple dot; it's bidirectional, click-free, yet stable, allowing you to place a marker on the hour disc.

For me, it's a successful watch. It evokes a sense of déjà vu, a fleeting feeling of familiarity even if you've never seen it before, and simultaneously, a sense of novelty in its ascetic simplicity. It has the soul of a diver's watch, but mounted on a leather-Cordura strap. In fact, the strap is the only truly flawed element. It's a Spanish strap from Seaqual made from recycled material. It's too stiff and doesn't fit the wrist well. I replaced it with a black French Sibra strap, which is a much better fit. The domed crystal is made of Hesalite, which complements the overall vintage feel, but it does have the drawback of scratching easily. The FLX004 is the fourth watch from this young brand, concluding their efforts to revisit the skin diver aesthetic. It measures 39 mm in diameter and 14 mm in thickness (12 mm case + 2 mm crystal). The movement is a Seiko NH38A at 3Hz. The luminescent coating is Super-LumiNova C3 "Old Radium," which offers a superb contrast with the deep black of the dial.

The soundtrack could be the music of Panov Stelar, a patchwork of reminiscences yet a fully original work in its own right, captivating and invigorating: https://youtu.be/ljKdbYGO62Q?si=Zwk2WMfZYTt0jo8M&t=2041

Adjective: Dreamlike, classy, abstract, danceable, grounded, minimalist

The past revisited

Circula is a small German family brand that was resurrected a few years ago in the third generation. The models are quite well-crafted and there is an interesting community spirit around the brand. Customers are consulted on the choices made for the development of new models.

The Protrail is a military field watch released in 2022. It comes in 3 versions. Sand, Black and limited edition Black old radium. It is the latter that seduced me with its simplicity, going so far as to reduce the numbers to the four essential ones, its extreme readability in all conditions.

The case is quite massive (40mm in diameter and 12 millimeters thick for 100g with a leather/fabric strap) due to the anti-magnetic shielding. But the watch also knows how to be forgotten, it is black and even more than black, its color always fascinates me. It may be because it comes from the Black Forest or because it has a DLC (Diamond-like-Carbon) coating that gives it robustness.

Depending on the lighting conditions and the distance at which you stand, you can see the circular streaks in the center of the dial, which add a nuance in keeping with the brand name, which sometimes make you think of an old vinyl, a Chuck Berry record that you would put on the turntable. And there, daydreaming about old memories, you tell yourself that time is definitely passing and that you are already old. Chuck Berry is already dead and we don't play vinyl anymore, we are in another era. Making people dream of another era while being firmly anchored in the 21st century is the bet of Cornelius Huber who was able to resuscitate Huber & Co in Pforzheim at the time when he himself became a father.

This unclassifiable watch that I bought for a reason that I did not understand myself, I like it a lot, what is more this series limited to 99 copies and numbered and by the greatest of chances I came across my favorite number. The movement is a Sellita SW 200-1 Elaboré (COMPATIBLE ETA 2824), it has a discreet but clear noise at 4Hz. There is no date, so as not to compromise the antimagnetic shielding. Of course there are many Field watches that have a long military experience with which this watch is not really comparable, and yet it brings an air of freshness so pleasant.

A watch oxymoron, a clash of generations

I've already reviewed the Raketa 821129. Well, the 821130 is the same thing, but in a night version. It's worth noting that Raketa models often come in two versions: a daytime version in light colors or white, and a nighttime version in black. Here, the dial is black like night, but also textured in a matrix pattern, like an organization present in the shadows. It's not visible except under specific lighting. The hours are indicated by indices, except for the 6 and the 12. December 6th is Ukrainian Armed Forces Day, a reference to December 6, 1919. The sound of the 2609 movement is rather loud; it's audible as soon as the watch is close to the face or in a quiet environment, but its frequency is quite pleasant to the ear. The perfect soundtrack to listen to with it would be this version of the popular song "Viorne Rouge" by Oleg Skypka: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ha4xNf-iTTw

The Matrix of Night

I quite like this little watch, which is so pretentious for what it is that it's no longer laughable, but truly admirable. The Samara factory makes watches as a cover for its military activities, and they've kept the old Pobeda brand and the old small-hand movement inherited from pre-war LIP watches. Watches are clearly not their priority. And yet, with this, they can offer a wide variety of models. This one is a "CV Chronograph," judging by the bezel, but if you look more closely—because it's true that a chronograph without buttons seems strange—it turns out to be just the calendar complication with the month and day of the week... and the small seconds. Of course, there are no hands for the month and day; you have to place them mentally. It's a mental exercise to do every morning. So, of course, the graduated bezel isn't bidirectional, or even unidirectional; it doesn't move, which is safer. You have to rotate it mentally—it's good for your memory.

If you open the snap-on case back, you'll find an antediluvian ZIM 2602 movement. Naturally, there are no calendar or chronograph complications on this type of movement. In short, the sheer audacity of it is impressive.

The soundtrack to listen to is Ostap Bender's song from "The Twelve Chairs." Con artists fascinate us; we see exactly what they're doing, how convincing they are, and yet we still fall for it. https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=vUV4ewHmDVM Adjectives: inventive, simple, imaginative, deceptive, astounding

Gros bluff

This hexagonal watch from the Second Moscow Watch Factory (Slava) looks, under its air of a proper dress watch, like it is about to explode. The upper and lower sides are slightly arched, it looks like they are about to burst into two other sides thus forming an octagon. Or maybe it was an octagon that folded into a hexagon? Or maybe they are simply beating. Still, the watch is on a fast pace, the hours are not marked, only the minutes are (The watch also exists in an inverted version where the burgundy part is in the center and the crown is white with large hour numerals after the railroad (https://urss.watch/2022/12/10/slava-2414-hexagonale-export/). This "minutes" version of the hexagonal Slava is more elegant with its radiating indexes, but above all more energetic. We imagine all the power of the disco of the 1970s-80s.
It has a 21-jewel Slava 2414/2.5Hz caliber, central seconds and date.
For the soundtrack, we imagine listening to Boney M in concert in Moscow ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPOI9n3lJLg ).

Adjectives: hexagonal, rhythmic, classy, disco, radiant, energetic

Swinging facets

Ollech &amp; Wajs est une maison horlog&egrave;re suisse fond&eacute;e en 1956 &agrave; Zurich par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs ; d&rsquo;abord d&eacute;taillant puis acteur de la vente par correspondance, le duo a b&acirc;ti sa r&eacute;putation sur des montres &laquo; tool &raquo; robustes &mdash; plongeuses, militaires, d&rsquo;aviation &mdash; vendues aux particuliers comme aux forces arm&eacute;es, avant d&rsquo;orchestrer un retour au premier plan au cours des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec une gamme contemporaine qui r&eacute;active les signatures historiques.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse et la vente par correspondance&thinsp;: les d&eacute;buts d&rsquo;un label outil</h3>
D&egrave;s l&rsquo;ouverture de leur petite boutique zurichoise, les fondateurs s&rsquo;attachent &agrave; proposer des montres fiables &agrave; prix tenu, puis &eacute;tendent rapidement l&rsquo;activit&eacute; vers le courrier et les annonces sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;es, et cette distribution directe fa&ccedil;on &laquo; mail-order &raquo; deviendra l&rsquo;un des marqueurs durables de la marque.&nbsp;Le basculement d&rsquo;un r&ocirc;le de d&eacute;taillant vers la cr&eacute;ation de montres sous leur propre nom s&rsquo;op&egrave;re en quelques ann&eacute;es, avec des lignes d&eacute;di&eacute;es aux usages concrets (terrain, mer, cockpit) et une construction volontairement simple et r&eacute;parable, et l&rsquo;obsession est moins la &laquo; complication &raquo; que l&rsquo;endurance et la lisibilit&eacute;.
Dans les ann&eacute;es 1960, la diffusion s&rsquo;&eacute;tend aux bases am&eacute;ricaines et aux PX, o&ugrave; des montres militaires et de plong&eacute;e sign&eacute;es O&amp;W trouvent un public pr&ecirc;t &agrave; les &eacute;prouver en conditions r&eacute;elles, et cette validation par l&rsquo;usage contribue &agrave; installer l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;un outil professionnel abordable.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: la profondeur, la d&eacute;compression et l&rsquo;imaginaire des grandes eaux</h3>
Au milieu des sixties, la maison se distingue par des plongeuses d&rsquo;avant-garde dont la Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, pi&egrave;ce record annonc&eacute;e pour 1000 m qui cristallise l&rsquo;ambition technique de l&rsquo;&eacute;poque et installe le nom O&amp;W dans le paysage de la plong&eacute;e sportive comme professionnelle, et l&rsquo;association avec des partenaires sp&eacute;cialis&eacute;s nourrit une esth&eacute;tique rationnelle et sans fioritures.
Dans la m&ecirc;me veine, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph introduit une lunette et une logique de lecture con&ccedil;ues pour accompagner la mont&eacute;e du plongeur et les paliers de d&eacute;compression, ancrant la montre dans un usage pr&eacute;cis plut&ocirc;t que dans l&rsquo;&eacute;vocation d&eacute;corative de la mer, et le cadran reste clair pour pr&eacute;server l&rsquo;instantan&eacute;it&eacute; de la lecture sous l&rsquo;eau.
Ces r&eacute;f&eacute;rences historiques, souvent cit&eacute;es et collectionn&eacute;es aujourd&rsquo;hui, ont fa&ccedil;onn&eacute; un langage fait de bo&icirc;tiers costauds, d&rsquo;&eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s s&eacute;rieuses, de bracelets adapt&eacute;s et de typographies contrast&eacute;es qui affleurent encore dans les mod&egrave;les actuels, et c&rsquo;est cette continuit&eacute; de &laquo; montre-outil &raquo; qui permet de relier le pass&eacute; et le pr&eacute;sent.
<h3>Relance contemporaine, ancrage helv&eacute;tique et cha&icirc;ne courte&thinsp;: le retour d&rsquo;O&amp;W</h3>
Apr&egrave;s avoir travers&eacute; la p&eacute;riode quartz et ralenti la cadence, la marque est reprise par Charles Le Menestrel et relanc&eacute;e &agrave; la fin des ann&eacute;es 2010 avec la volont&eacute; explicite de prolonger l&rsquo;esprit des origines plut&ocirc;t que de s&rsquo;&eacute;parpiller en s&eacute;ries cosm&eacute;tiques, et&nbsp;le bureau de cr&eacute;ation reste &agrave; Zurich tandis que l&rsquo;assemblage et les r&eacute;glages s&rsquo;effectuent dans le Jura suisse.
La d&eacute;marche privil&eacute;gie des mouvements automatiques suisses &eacute;prouv&eacute;s, une architecture de bo&icirc;te simple &agrave; entretenir, des &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute;s cr&eacute;dibles et des bracelets &agrave; la fois robustes et faciles &agrave; vivre au quotidien, et le cahier des charges reprend la triade historique : fiabilit&eacute;, lisibilit&eacute;, r&eacute;parabilit&eacute;.
La relance ne se contente pas de &laquo; r&eacute;&eacute;ditions &raquo; au millim&egrave;tre : elle propose des montres nouvelles inspir&eacute;es des usages historiques, rehausse le soin apport&eacute; aux finitions et met en avant un contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; par &eacute;tapes, et le r&eacute;sultat vise une modernit&eacute; pragmatique qui &eacute;vite le pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 et Ocean Graph&thinsp;: familles actuelles et usages concrets</h3>
Les premi&egrave;res r&eacute;f&eacute;rences de l&rsquo;&egrave;re r&eacute;cente prennent la forme de montres d&rsquo;aviation &agrave; taille contenue, Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, qui relecturent les codes cockpit dans une bo&icirc;te polyvalente autour de 39&ndash;40 mm avec saphir et couronne viss&eacute;e, et elles ciblent une lecture instrumentale et une r&eacute;sistance suffisante pour le quotidien.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; plong&eacute;e, la maison propose aujourd&rsquo;hui la Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (ainsi que des &eacute;ditions anniversaires) comme incarnation contemporaine de l&rsquo;esprit Caribbean : valves, joints, fonds viss&eacute;s et traitements soign&eacute;s s&rsquo;additionnent pour offrir un instrument de mer moderne, et le cadran conserve l&rsquo;intelligibilit&eacute; qui a fait la r&eacute;putation de la lign&eacute;e.
En parall&egrave;le, l&rsquo;Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph revient sous une forme actualis&eacute;e, avec sa logique de lecture li&eacute;e &agrave; la d&eacute;compression qui en fait une plongeuse de caract&egrave;re imm&eacute;diatement reconnaissable au poignet, et cette signature d&rsquo;usage distingue le mod&egrave;le dans un segment satur&eacute;.
La famille Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron s&rsquo;adresse &agrave; celles et ceux qui veulent un chronographe &laquo; outil &raquo; lisible, fid&egrave;le &agrave; l&rsquo;esprit O&amp;W sans exc&egrave;s de complexit&eacute;, avec une ergonomie de poussoirs travaill&eacute;e et une &eacute;chelle claire pour structurer le temps court, et le dessin reste volontairement pratique plut&ocirc;t que d&eacute;monstratif.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; pilote contemporain, diam&egrave;tre contenu, saphir, r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau &eacute;lev&eacute;e, cadran tr&egrave;s lisible, usage &laquo; bureau-terrain &raquo;.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; variante d&rsquo;aviation avec autre signature de lunette et de marquages, m&ecirc;me esprit robuste.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; plongeuse moderne inspir&eacute;e de la Caribbean, &eacute;tanch&eacute;it&eacute; pouss&eacute;e et lecture directe.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; plongeuse instrumentale &agrave; logique de d&eacute;compression, identit&eacute; forte au poignet.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; chronographe &laquo; tool &raquo;, cadran a&eacute;r&eacute; et poussoirs francs, lisibilit&eacute; du temps court.</li>
</ul>
Au-del&agrave; des noms, l&rsquo;important est l&rsquo;usage : pilote pour la lisibilit&eacute; &agrave; plat et la r&eacute;sistance aux chocs de la vie active, plongeuse pour l&rsquo;eau et la robustesse, chronographe pour rythmer les t&acirc;ches et les entra&icirc;nements, et ce d&eacute;coupage aide &agrave; choisir une O&amp;W en fonction d&rsquo;un sc&eacute;nario r&eacute;el plut&ocirc;t que d&rsquo;un simple style.
<h3>Signature &laquo; tool watch &raquo;&thinsp;: mat&eacute;riaux, mouvements, dimensions et bracelets</h3>
Les bo&icirc;tiers actuels privil&eacute;gient l&rsquo;acier, des traitements de surface sobres, des lunettes fonctionnelles et des glaces saphir, avec des diam&egrave;tres g&eacute;n&eacute;ralement compris entre 39 et 42 mm pour pr&eacute;server la polyvalence au quotidien, et le port&eacute; se veut stable gr&acirc;ce &agrave; des cornes ma&icirc;tris&eacute;es et des bracelets ajust&eacute;s.
C&ocirc;t&eacute; motorisation, la marque recourt &agrave; des automatiques suisses contemporains adapt&eacute;s &agrave; l&rsquo;usage intensif, certains r&eacute;gl&eacute;s ou certifi&eacute;s selon versions, et l&rsquo;accent est mis sur la facilit&eacute; d&rsquo;entretien par un horloger comp&eacute;tent partout dans le monde, et cette pragmatique m&eacute;canique refl&egrave;te la vocation utilitaire des montres.
Les bracelets &mdash; acier, textile de type RAF/NATO ou caoutchouc &mdash; sont choisis pour leur s&eacute;curit&eacute;, leur r&eacute;sistance &agrave; l&rsquo;eau et leur confort, tandis que les boucles et end-links sont travaill&eacute;s pour limiter les points durs, et la modularit&eacute; permet d&rsquo;adapter la m&ecirc;me montre &agrave; des contextes tr&egrave;s diff&eacute;rents.
<h3>Positionnement, prix, distribution et profils d&rsquo;acheteurs</h3>
O&amp;W occupe aujourd&rsquo;hui un segment &laquo; outil de qualit&eacute; &raquo; : finitions soign&eacute;es mais sans ostentation, fiches techniques coh&eacute;rentes, contr&ocirc;le qualit&eacute; serr&eacute; et communication ax&eacute;e sur l&rsquo;usage plut&ocirc;t que sur le prestige, et le rapport contenu/prix vise la cr&eacute;dibilit&eacute; d&rsquo;un instrument plut&ocirc;t que la posture luxueuse.&nbsp;La distribution m&ecirc;le vente directe en ligne et r&eacute;seau restreint de partenaires, comme <a href="https://bit.ly/4igLuis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Horel</a> &agrave; Bordeaux (France) ou <a href="https://bit.ly/4p27od0" target="_blank" rel="noopener">La Vitrine Horlog&egrave;re</a> en Belgique, avec un discours p&eacute;dagogique sur l&rsquo;h&eacute;ritage et les usages, et&nbsp;ce canal court facilite la coh&eacute;rence tarifaire et la relation avec l&rsquo;atelier.
Le public typique r&eacute;unit des amateurs de montres &laquo; &agrave; faire &raquo; plut&ocirc;t qu&rsquo;&laquo; &agrave; montrer &raquo;, des plongeurs loisirs, des voyageurs qui appr&eacute;cient la solidit&eacute; et des utilisateurs professionnels qui veulent un objet fiable et r&eacute;parable, et la marque parle &agrave; celles et ceux qui pr&eacute;f&egrave;rent la preuve par le port&eacute;.
<h3>Guide de choix&thinsp;: sc&eacute;nario d&rsquo;usage, lisibilit&eacute; et ergonomie</h3>
Commencez par d&eacute;finir l&rsquo;environnement principal : eau, cockpit, bureau-terrain ou sport chronom&eacute;tr&eacute; ; si l&rsquo;eau domine, une Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 ou une Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph seront naturelles, tandis que P-101/P-104 conviendront aux lectures rapides et aux cadrans &eacute;pur&eacute;s, et le chronographe Navichron servira aux temps courts et aux routines fractionn&eacute;es.
Validez ensuite la lisibilit&eacute; : contraste aiguilles/fond, taille des index, absence de surcharge, visibilit&eacute; de la minuterie et coh&eacute;rence de la lunette avec l&rsquo;usage r&eacute;el, et faites le test &laquo; un m&egrave;tre/un coup d&rsquo;&oelig;il &raquo; en lumi&egrave;re naturelle avant d&rsquo;arr&ecirc;ter votre choix.
Enfin, essayez la montre pour jauger l&rsquo;assise (corne-&agrave;-corne), la couronne dans la paume, la souplesse du bracelet et le tomb&eacute; g&eacute;n&eacute;ral avec vos manches et vos activit&eacute;s, et gardez la version que vous oubliez le plus vite une fois port&eacute;e.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs demeure identifiable par sa vocation d&rsquo;outil : des montres pens&eacute;es pour l&rsquo;usage, lisibles, robustes et suivies par une cha&icirc;ne suisse claire. Entre plongeuses h&eacute;riti&egrave;res de la Caribbean, pilotes modernes et chronographes de travail, la gamme s&rsquo;articule simplement autour de sc&eacute;narios r&eacute;els. Pour d&eacute;cider, partez de votre terrain d&rsquo;emploi, testez lisibilit&eacute; et confort, puis ajustez mati&egrave;re et bracelet ; vous obtiendrez un instrument pertinent qui vieillit bien. Pour croiser ces rep&egrave;res avec des retours d&rsquo;exp&eacute;rience, appuyez-vous sur les avis clients Dialicious.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Ao&ucirc;t 2025)

Ollech &amp; Wajs is a Swiss watch company founded in 1956 in Zurich by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs; initially a retailer and then a mail-order operator, the duo built a reputation on robust tool watches&mdash;divers, military pieces and pilot instruments&mdash;sold to civilians and service members alike, before orchestrating a modern comeback in the late 2010s with a contemporary range that revives the brand&rsquo;s historic signatures.
<h3>Zurich, Stockerstrasse and mail order: the beginnings of a tool-driven label</h3>
From their small Zurich storefront, the founders soon moved from selling other brands to shipping their own watches by post, and this direct &ldquo;mail-order&rdquo; route became a lasting hallmark of the company.&nbsp;The shift from retailing to making watches under their own name took only a few years, with dedicated lines for concrete use cases (field, sea, cockpit) and constructions that favoured simple, repairable mechanics, and the focus was less on &ldquo;complication&rdquo; than on endurance and clarity.
In the 1960s, distribution extended to US military PX stores, where O&amp;W military and dive watches were tried in real-world conditions by service members, and this usage-led validation helped cement the image of an affordable professional instrument.
<h3>Caribbean 1000 and Ocean Graph: depth, decompression and the great-waters playbook</h3>
By the mid-sixties the brand stood out with cutting-edge divers, notably the Ollech &amp; Wajs Caribbean 1000, a thousand-metre-rated watch that crystallised the era&rsquo;s technical ambition and lodged the O&amp;W name in both recreational and professional diving, and partnerships with specialist makers fed a rational, no-nonsense aesthetic.
In the same spirit, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph brought a bezel and reading logic tailored to ascent and decompression stops, rooting the watch in a specific task rather than mere maritime d&eacute;cor, and the dial stayed clean to preserve underwater glance legibility.
These historic references&mdash;often cited and collected today&mdash;shaped a language of stout cases, serious water-resistance, practical bracelets and high-contrast typography that still surfaces in current models, and this through-line of &ldquo;tool first&rdquo; connects past to present.
<h3>Contemporary relaunch, Swiss anchoring and a short chain: O&amp;W&rsquo;s return</h3>
After weathering the quartz era and slowing down, the brand was revived in the late 2010s by Charles Le Menestrel with the explicit aim of extending the founding spirit rather than scattering into cosmetic runs, and&nbsp;design remains in Zurich while assembly and adjustment take place in the Swiss Jura.
The approach favours proven Swiss automatic movements, serviceable case architecture, credible water-resistance and bracelets built for comfort and durability, and the specification re-embraces the classic triad: reliability, legibility, serviceability.&nbsp;The comeback is not a millimetre-for-millimetre facsimile exercise; instead, it offers new watches inspired by historic use, upgrades finishing and emphasises stepwise quality control, and the outcome is a pragmatic modernity that avoids pastiche.
<h3>P-101, P-104, Navichron, C-1000 and Ocean Graph: today&rsquo;s families and real use</h3>
The first modern releases took the form of compact pilot watches, the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104, which reinterpret cockpit codes in versatile 39&ndash;40 mm cases with sapphire and screw-down crowns, and they target instrumental reading and all-day resilience.
On the dive side, the brand offers the Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 (along with anniversary editions) as a contemporary take on the Caribbean ethos: seals, casebacks, and careful treatment combine into a modern sea instrument, and the dial retains the intelligibility that made the line&rsquo;s reputation.
In parallel, the Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph returned in an updated form, with its decompression-centred readout making for an instantly recognisable diver on the wrist, and this task-specific signature sets it apart in a crowded segment.
The Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron family serves those who want a readable, work-ready chronograph true to the O&amp;W spirit, with well-judged pushers and crisp scales for short-time duties, and the design stays deliberately practical rather than showy.
<ul>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 &mdash; contemporary pilot, compact diameter, sapphire, strong water-resistance, very legible dial for desk-to-field wear.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104 &mdash; aviation variant with a different bezel and markings signature, same robust intent.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 &mdash; modern diver inspired by the Caribbean, serious water-proofing and direct readout.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph &mdash; instrumental diver with decompression logic, strong identity on the wrist.</li>
<li>Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron &mdash; &ldquo;tool&rdquo; chronograph, open dial and assertive pushers, clarity in short-time work.</li>
</ul>
Beyond names, what matters is use: a pilot for flat-plane readability and shock tolerance in active life; a diver for water and sturdiness; a chronograph to pace tasks and training, and this split helps pick an O&amp;W by real scenario rather than by style alone.
<h3>Tool-watch signature: materials, movements, dimensions and straps</h3>
Current cases prioritise steel, sober surface treatments, functional bezels and sapphire crystals, with diameters largely between 39 and 42 mm to sustain daily versatility, and on-wrist stability comes from disciplined lug spans and well-matched bracelets.
Mechanically, the brand uses modern, Swiss automatic calibres suited to intensive use&mdash;some adjusted or certified depending on versions&mdash;while ensuring that any competent watchmaker can service them, and this pragmatic mechanics reflects the utilitarian brief.
Bracelets&mdash;steel, RAF/NATO-type textile or rubber&mdash;are chosen for security, water-readiness and comfort, with buckles and end-links designed to minimise hot-spots, and modularity lets a single watch adapt to very different contexts.
<h3>Positioning, prices, channels and buyer profiles</h3>
O&amp;W sits in a &ldquo;quality tool&rdquo; segment: tidy finishing without ostentation, coherent spec sheets, tight quality control and messaging anchored in use rather than prestige, and the value proposition seeks instrument credibility rather than luxury posturing.
Distribution blends direct online sales with a small partner network and a didactic narrative about heritage and use, and this short channel supports coherent pricing and a clear link to the workshop.&nbsp;The core audience mixes owners who prefer watches to &ldquo;do&rdquo; rather than to &ldquo;show,&rdquo; recreational divers, travellers who prize sturdiness and professionals who need reliable, serviceable objects, and the brand resonates with those who trust proof of wear over glossy claims.
<h3>Selection guide: use case, legibility and ergonomics</h3>
Start by mapping your main environment&mdash;water, cockpit, desk-to-field or timed sport; if water rules, a Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000 or Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph is natural, whereas P-101/P-104 suit quick, uncluttered reads, and the Navichron chronograph serves intervals and structured routines.
Next validate legibility: hand-to-dial contrast, index size, minimal clutter, minute track visibility and bezel logic that matches how you actually use it, and run the &ldquo;one-metre/one-glance&rdquo; test in natural light before deciding.
Finally, try the watch to judge stance (lug-to-lug), crown feel in the palm, bracelet suppleness and how it sits with sleeves and tasks, and keep the version you forget the fastest once strapped on.
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
Ollech &amp; Wajs remains identifiable by its purpose-built vocation: watches made for use&mdash;readable, robust and supported by a clear Swiss chain. Between divers that channel the Caribbean legacy, modern pilot pieces and work-ready chronographs, the range is organised simply around real-world scenarios. To choose well, start with where you&rsquo;ll wear it, test clarity and comfort, then tune material and strap; you&rsquo;ll land on a capable instrument that ages well. To square these cues with long-term ownership feedback, a helpful compass remains Dialicious customer reviews.
Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated August 2025)

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