The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Iconic watch art prints. Made in Switzerland, lifetime guarantee

I'm not a feng shui practitioner, quite the opposite, but I'm fascinated by instruments that represent the world we live in. Especially the oldest ones. Like, for example, the Antikythera Mechanism, which is two thousand years old. With the Luo Pan (羅盤), we're looking at an even older instrument, as it's estimated to be around 4,000 years old.
The watch itself is very simple and successful in this respect. It has two wide, red hands, pierced to reveal the underlying Chinese characters. It's very legible, which is what matters most to me. The seconds hand is a central Yin-Yang disc, so it's both prominent and discreet. The movement is a TMI VH31 quartz with a smooth seconds hand, which means the Yin-Yang rotates without any jerking. The case back features this famous Yin-Yang disc in an octagonal shape (a protective shape symbolizing prosperity and eternity). The case is 12mm thick and 40mm in diameter. The crown is positioned at 12 o'clock to maintain the watch's harmony; since it's a quartz movement, this isn't really an issue. The matching black and red leather strap is very comfortable and features quick-release spring bars for easy strap changes or time adjustments. The perfect soundtrack, in my opinion, would be the soundscape of Jean-Michel Jarre's Oxygène, a journey through dimensions unknown to our world. Perhaps the third part in particular. The music was composed nearly fifty years ago but remains timeless. https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=C08OhE2e96s
Adjectives: Zen, lucky, cosmic, traditional, harmonious, magical

Positioning in space and time

This Poljot export "Volcan," with its bright blue dial that tinges with purple, dates from the 1970s and is particularly striking thanks to its polished, rounded case. The case measures 42mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness (the dial is 30mm and the crystal 34mm, including the two-millimeter polished flange on each side). Its seamless design evokes a volcano, hence the name. Similarly, its bright blue dial, two-faceted dauphine hands, and three-faceted hour markers all contribute to a bold and eye-catching look.

The movement is a robust and reliable 2609N with 17 jewels. The case back is screw-down. This watch reminds me of Blondie's world, a bit like in the Tissot ad (Tissot used "call me," I think), but let's go with "Heart of Glass" and its "nah nah nah nah... Yeah, riding high on love's true bluish light" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGU_4-5RaxU
It's a watch of contrasts that can be both cold and passionate.



Glass volcano

D.W.Y.T. was a small, unassuming French brand that sadly disappeared after ten years. They offered watches designed as accessible fashion accessories, easily adaptable to any mood thanks to quick-release spring bars. The cases were made of wood, a material that isn't necessarily very resistant to scratches over time, but which has the advantage of being lightweight and having a warm feel, unlike metals (wood is typically two orders of magnitude less conductive than steel, 100 times less so, whereas a titanium alloy, for example, is only 10 times less). However, the case back, which is in contact with the skin of the wrist, is made of gold-plated steel, not wood like the rest of the case.

I have a Vela with a smooth, fir green leather strap and a pin buckle. It's a watch that weighs 21g, has a diameter of 34mm, and is 8mm thick. The case is made of black sandalwood.
Since I like minimalist dials, this one suits me well: four white hour markers and two white hands on a dark background, making it very legible. The red sweeping seconds hand provides a little extra precision when needed. The gold flange adds a touch of elegance to the familiar simplicity of the hands. It's a model I appreciate.
To change the battery, you need a screwdriver, to remove four screws and detach the case back; it's a small SR621SW.

The brand name "Do Waste Your Time" is an invitation to take your time. Because being obsessed with not wasting time—which, incidentally, could be written with the same acronym DWYT for Don't Waste Your Time—means getting stuck in a routine, stressing yourself out, and missing out on things just waiting to be discovered. Serendipity requires precisely the ability to unexpectedly take one's time when necessary, provided one isn't caught up in distractions at that moment. Watches are often called "timekeepers," originally because marine chronometers literally kept the correct time when other instruments drifted. So it's in a sense of precision. But when I hear this expression, I inevitably think of "time reserve," like a "pantry" that stores food in the absence of a refrigerator. However, there isn't a time reserve for when we need it. A reserve that we could replenish when we have downtime. Perhaps artificial intelligence will soon take control of our time management through digital assistants in order to optimize our time. This watch goes against the grain of perfect time management via AI; it is remarkably simple and reminds us that we can be free to take our time.

The soundtrack I associate with this watch is "Il est libre Max" by Hervé Cristiani https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=VoLvbuIGFwI
Adjectives: light, warm, simple, accessible, customizable
Dimensions: weight 21g, thickness 8mm, case 34mm, black sandalwood

Let's take our time

Raketa is known for its 24-hour movements. This one is a bit special since it is associated with an inner bezel on which the main time zones are represented. But the language used is English and the city for CET is neither Berlin nor Paris but Geneva. In addition, on a lower circle are represented the Antarctic bases, the Antarctic continent having all the time zones, even if on some no bases are built. 
What I really like, besides this internal crown of universal time, is the night version which gives an extreme delicacy. Often the Raketa models were offered in two versions, day (white dial) and night (black dial). The thin white hands moving on the black dial always give me an impression of hushed delicacy. Added to this is the caseback number 333 that the seller from the far north assured was a message from the archangel Gabriel, a message of joy, peace and love, even if I don't know if this number is original, it doesn't hurt to wear such a number. The dial only represents the indexes of even hours and indicates odd hours with 24-minute sub-indexes (1/60 of the turn of the small hand) and 1/60 of the turn of the large hand which turns in one hour and therefore each sub-index for the large hand corresponds to one minute like all watches). Midnight being at the top of the dial and noon at the bottom. This may seem unusual as a way of doing things but in fact it is very practical to use.
The case is made of chrome-plated brass with a diameter of 38mm and a stainless steel caseback. The movement is a 2623N 24 Hours which is known to be robust and reliable.
In the end it's a watch that I really appreciate
Adjectives: Delicate, cosmopolitan, universal, soft, celestial, planetary, elegant, extreme, angelic, practical

White-gloved night traveler

The 901609 is a true classic for lovers of minimalist designs. It has just the right elements: twelve Arabic numerals, a minute track limited to the markers, three slim black hands, and a Luch logo in script. This strong contrast ensures excellent legibility. Some models even offer dial customization.

The movement is a 23-jewel Luch 2209, notable for its orange-yellow hue. The case measures 34 mm excluding the crown. It's a round, chrome-plated brass case with a snap-on steel case back bearing the Soviet quality mark and a serial number.

It's a very simple and successful model, although I'm not entirely happy about the occasional loss of the plexiglass crystal on my example.

The music I would associate with this model is Beethoven's Symphony No. 7, rearranged for piano by Paul Lay—a gravity that reveals an unexpected lightness, or perhaps the other way around. https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Sfm0OFYJEd0&si

Agile gravity

This model stands out thanks to its curved case, free of sharp edges, and its mesmerizing dial. The case is made of chrome-plated brass with a screw-down steel case back. It measures 33mm in diameter, or 35mm including the crown. The crown is easy to grip and wind. The case measures only 34mm lug to lug, yet it appears much larger. This is likely due to the highly legible dial and hands. The halo gradient creates a luminous effect, as do the large numerals in a stylized font that suggests movement or the sounds of brass instruments. The wide, two-tone hands immediately catch the eye. The numerals are large yet discreet, even blending into the halo depending on the dial's angle. The movement is a highly reliable and emblematic 2609NA from the Petrodvorets factory. It's a very successful, bold, and captivating model.

The song I would listen to with it would be Katzapy by Tik https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh_Af3gH42A

The hour of freedom

Automatic watches weren't the most common type of Soviet-era production; they were thicker and heavier than manual-winding watches, even though winding a watch daily isn't exactly the most strenuous activity of the day.

This one, however, is relatively lightweight at 79g with a metal bracelet, measuring 42mm in width (including the crown) and 12mm in thickness. Its design, with English inscriptions, gives it a rather exotic look. There's a strong contrast between the chrome-plated brass case, the black dial, and the fluted gold bezel, which matches the crown.

The movement is a Poljot 2616.2H automatic, with 23 jewels. The soundtrack that comes to mind when I think of this watch is Machina Vermeni, specifically "Povorot," the band's iconic song from 1979 that describes a rally driver's race, turning corner after corner, the rhythm marking the steering wheel's movements as they anticipate what lies beyond the next turn. A metaphor from motorsport that represents life in the 1980s, a time of constant twists and turns and radical changes.

https://youtu.be/8SK1qaDCGVk?si=o6gMryEjvAWxLqew&t=23 Adjectives: roaring, automatic, contrasting, swaggering

One turning point after another

Here are my favorite chronographs from the Soviet era given to the Aviator Officers and the Navy Officers (with another caliber that had the hack stop second but equal to the 3133). The 3133 is the descendant in some way of the 3017 of the famous Strela first watch worn in space during extra vehicular activity. The 3133 is a Valjoux 7734 with a few more jewels and great reliability added to what it already was! Here are some of my models

Les navigators, Ocean 3133

In 1980, tritium in watches was commonplace so since this watch is Russian and from an unlikely era, I imagine that the luminescent material is highly more radioactive... and I like it. It looks like a pressure gauge from a nuclear power plant with its arrow indexes and crude hands. I am lucky enough to own the model with Poljot written in Cyrillic which, for sure, gives it power and makes this watch work as soon as I pick it up. It commands all eyes with its resemblance to a Tag Formula One from the same era. Its bakelite bezel and its typical shape of the fifties divers recalls the Blancpain except that my Полёт is not water resistant to fifty Phatoms and dates from the eighties. An automatic 2616.2H movement animates this improbable watch and it purrs. The strap provided with it, which is probably not the original one, is a leather strap that gives me a sado maso biker look... so I put a nato strap on it (Daniel Craig) to give me the appearance of a KGB agent infiltrating the English.

The Fifty Phatoms of the East

We would like such a beautiful watch to be automatic but Poljot equips almost all of its chronographs with the 3133 inspired by the famous Valjoux. Reliable and quite pretty, this movement allows this watch to be precise and relatively thin for the time, date, a chronograph and, a small manual function, a crown at 9 o'clock that turns a bezel with a second time zone under the sapphire crystal. It is a replica limited to 300 copies of a Russian naval officer's watch from the 80s.

I call this watch The Masked Clown because of the blue that cuts the dial and the red hands. I like it because it has the face of a Russian Speedmaster or the Universal Genève Compax Exotic that is impossible to have.

That's exactly what's good about the Poljot brand! Rare elegant watches that seem to be worth 20,000 bucks but that remain totally accessible.

For a sailor's watch, it could be waterproof to 30+ meters because its waterproofing keeps me from taking it to the beach and on adventures. The straps provided by Poljot are beautiful but of poor quality. If I could find a gray one, as beautiful but a little more resistant to time, that would be great.

The Russian watch for officers.

I'd like to introduce you to the latest addition to my collection: a magnificent Russian chronograph from the 1970s. This watch is equipped with a caliber 3017, derived from the Venus 150. Only 100,000 were produced, and it was originally intended for Soviet fighter pilots and cosmonauts.

There are several versions, but this one is my favorite. I love its practicality with the tachymeter and telemeter scales (even though I don't think I'll use them regularly).

I find it simply stunning, especially the combination of black, green, and red. At 37mm in diameter, it's a better fit for my smaller wrist. I'm going to try to find it a different strap, perhaps a canvas one; that would give it a truly military look.

Poljot 3017 Chronograph

<p><strong>Atelier Wen</strong> est une marque horlog&egrave;re ind&eacute;pendante qui s'est distingu&eacute;e par son approche novatrice, alliant le riche patrimoine culturel chinois &agrave; une horlogerie de haute qualit&eacute;. Fond&eacute;e par deux passionn&eacute;s de la culture chinoise, Thomas Gronenthal et Robin Tallendier, la marque vise &agrave; red&eacute;finir la perception des montres "Made in China" en mettant en avant l'excellence artisanale du pays.</p>
<h3><strong>Philosophie et Mission</strong></h3>
<p>L'objectif principal d'Atelier Wen est de c&eacute;l&eacute;brer l'artisanat chinois en cr&eacute;ant des montres qui refl&egrave;tent l'h&eacute;ritage culturel et l'expertise technique du pays. La marque cherche &agrave; offrir des garde-temps de luxe qui int&egrave;grent des &eacute;l&eacute;ments de design chinois authentiques, tout en maintenant des standards &eacute;lev&eacute;s de qualit&eacute; et de pr&eacute;cision.</p>
<h3><strong>Collections Principales</strong></h3>
<p><em>1. Porcelain Odyssey</em></p>
<p>La collection "Porcelain Odyssey" est la premi&egrave;re s&eacute;rie de montres lanc&eacute;e par Atelier Wen. Ces montres se distinguent par leurs <strong>cadrans en porcelaine v&eacute;ritable</strong>, fabriqu&eacute;s selon des techniques traditionnelles chinoises. Les mod&egrave;les "Ji" et "Hao" pr&eacute;sentent des motifs inspir&eacute;s de l'art chinois, offrant une esth&eacute;tique unique qui rend hommage &agrave; la riche histoire du pays.</p>
<p><em>2. Perception</em></p>
<p>La collection "Perception" incarne l'engagement d'Atelier Wen envers l'horlogerie de luxe. Ces montres arborent des cadrans guilloch&eacute;s r&eacute;alis&eacute;s &agrave; la main par le ma&icirc;tre artisan Cheng Yucai, <strong>le seul ma&icirc;tre guillocheur de Chine</strong>. Chaque cadran n&eacute;cessite environ huit heures de travail minutieux sur des machines &agrave; guillocher sp&eacute;cialement con&ccedil;ues. Les mod&egrave;les de cette collection sont disponibles en trois couleurs de cadran : bleu clair ("Piao"), saumon ("Xia") et gris ("Ying").</p>
<h3><strong>Caract&eacute;ristiques Techniques</strong></h3>
<p>Les montres Atelier Wen sont con&ccedil;ues avec une attention particuli&egrave;re aux d&eacute;tails et &agrave; la qualit&eacute;. Les bo&icirc;tiers, souvent en acier inoxydable 904L, offrent une r&eacute;sistance accrue &agrave; la corrosion et une finition polie exceptionnelle. Les dimensions typiques incluent <strong>un diam&egrave;tre de 40 mm, une &eacute;paisseur de 9,4 mm</strong> et une distance de corne &agrave; corne de 47 mm, assurant un port confortable sur une vari&eacute;t&eacute; de poignets. Les montres sont &eacute;galement &eacute;tanches jusqu'&agrave; 100 m&egrave;tres, ce qui les rend polyvalentes pour une utilisation quotidienne.</p>
<h3><strong>Mouvement</strong></h3>
<p>Les garde-temps de la collection "Perception" sont &eacute;quip&eacute;s du <strong>calibre automatique SL1588, fabriqu&eacute; par Dandong</strong>. Ce mouvement bat &agrave; une fr&eacute;quence de 28 800 alternances par heure et offre une r&eacute;serve de marche d'environ 41 heures. Bien que relativement nouveau sur le march&eacute;, ce calibre a &eacute;t&eacute; choisi pour sa fiabilit&eacute; et sa pr&eacute;cision, refl&eacute;tant l'engagement d'Atelier Wen envers l'innovation et la qualit&eacute;.</p>
<h3><strong>Bracelet et Confort</strong></h3>
<p>Les montres Atelier Wen sont dot&eacute;es de bracelets int&eacute;gr&eacute;s en acier inoxydable, con&ccedil;us pour assurer <strong>une transition fluide entre le bo&icirc;tier et le bracelet</strong>. Les maillons sont finement chanfrein&eacute;s et polis, offrant une esth&eacute;tique luxueuse et un confort optimal. La version 2.0 de la collection "Perception" a introduit des am&eacute;liorations notables, notamment des chanfreins faits main sur tous les maillons internes, renfor&ccedil;ant ainsi l'apparence haut de gamme du bracelet.</p>
<h3><strong>Collaborations et &Eacute;ditions Limit&eacute;es</strong></h3>
<p>Atelier Wen a &eacute;galement explor&eacute; des collaborations pour offrir <strong>des &eacute;ditions limit&eacute;es uniques</strong>. Par exemple, en partenariat avec Revolution, la marque a lanc&eacute; des mod&egrave;les en titane avec des cadrans jaunes et rouges vibrants, chacun limit&eacute; &agrave; 100 pi&egrave;ces. Une autre collaboration notable inclut une &eacute;dition sp&eacute;ciale avec Wristcheck et seconde/seconde/, pr&eacute;sentant un design ludique et innovant qui refl&egrave;te l'engagement de la marque envers la cr&eacute;ativit&eacute; et l'artisanat.</p>
<h3><strong>R&eacute;ception et Impact</strong></h3>
<p>Depuis son lancement, Atelier Wen a re&ccedil;u des &eacute;loges pour sa capacit&eacute; &agrave; fusionner l'esth&eacute;tique chinoise traditionnelle avec l'horlogerie moderne. La marque a r&eacute;ussi &agrave; <strong>changer la perception du "Made in China"</strong> en d&eacute;montrant que l'artisanat chinois peut rivaliser avec les standards internationaux les plus &eacute;lev&eacute;s. Les critiques ont salu&eacute; la qualit&eacute; de fabrication, le design distinctif et l'approche innovante de la marque.</p>
<h3><strong>Conclusion</strong></h3>
<p>Atelier Wen repr&eacute;sente une <strong>fusion r&eacute;ussie de la tradition culturelle chinoise et de l'horlogerie contemporaine</strong>. En mettant l'accent sur l'artisanat, la qualit&eacute; et le design, la marque a &eacute;tabli une identit&eacute; unique dans le monde de l'horlogerie de luxe. Que ce soit &agrave; travers des cadrans en porcelaine d&eacute;licatement fabriqu&eacute;s ou des motifs guilloch&eacute;s complexes, chaque montre raconte une histoire qui honore le riche h&eacute;ritage de la Chine tout en r&eacute;pondant aux attentes des passionn&eacute;s de montres modernes.</p>
<p>Inspirez-vous des <strong>avis clients Dialicious</strong> pour choisir la montre qui vous ressemble.</p>
<p>(Mise &agrave; jour Mars 2025)</p>

<p dir="ltr"><strong>Atelier Wen</strong> is an independent watch brand that has distinguished itself by its innovative approach, combining China's rich cultural heritage with high-quality watchmaking. Founded by <strong>two enthusiasts of Chinese culture</strong>, Thomas Gronenthal and Robin Tallendier, the brand aims to redefine the perception of "Made in China" watches by highlighting the country's artisanal excellence.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Philosophy and Mission</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Atelier Wen's main goal is to celebrate Chinese craftsmanship by creating watches that reflect the <strong>country's cultural heritage </strong>and technical expertise. The brand seeks to offer luxury timepieces that incorporate authentic Chinese design elements, while maintaining high standards of quality and precision.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Main Collections</h3>
<p dir="ltr">1. Porcelain Odyssey</p>
<p dir="ltr">The &ldquo;Porcelain Odyssey&rdquo; collection is the first series of watches launched by Atelier Wen. These watches are distinguished by their <strong>real porcelain dials</strong>, made using traditional Chinese techniques. The "Ji" and "Hao" models feature designs inspired by Chinese art, offering a unique aesthetic that pays homage to the country's rich history.</p>
<p dir="ltr">2. Perception</p>
<p dir="ltr">The &ldquo;Perception&rdquo; collection embodies Atelier Wen&rsquo;s commitment to luxury watchmaking. These watches feature guilloche dials handcrafted by master craftsman Cheng Yucai, <strong>the only master guilloche maker in China</strong>. Each dial requires approximately eight hours of painstaking work on specially designed guilloche machines. The models in this collection are available in three dial colors: light blue (&ldquo;Piao&rdquo;), salmon (&ldquo;Xia&rdquo;) and gray (&ldquo;Ying&rdquo;).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Technical Characteristics</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Atelier Wen watches are designed with attention to detail and quality. Housings, often made from 904L stainless steel, offer increased corrosion resistance and an exceptional polished finish. Typical dimensions include a diameter of <strong>40mm, a thickness of 9.4mm and a lug-to-lug distance</strong> of 47mm, ensuring comfortable wear on a variety of wrists. The watches are also water resistant up to 100 meters, making them versatile for everyday use.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Movement</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The timepieces from the &ldquo;Perception&rdquo; collection are equipped with the automatic <strong>caliber SL1588, manufactured by Dandong</strong>. This movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. Although relatively new to the market, this caliber was chosen for its reliability and precision, reflecting Atelier Wen's commitment to innovation and quality.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bracelet and Confort</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Atelier Wen watches feature integrated stainless steel bracelets, designed to provide <strong>a seamless transition between case and bracelet</strong>. The links are finely chamfered and polished, providing a luxurious aesthetic and optimal comfort. Version 2.0 of the "Perception" collection introduced notable improvements, including hand-crafted chamfers on all internal links, reinforcing the premium appearance of the bracelet.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Collaborations and Limited Editions</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Atelier Wen has also explored collaborations to offer <strong>unique limited editions</strong>. For example, in partnership with Revolution, the brand launched titanium models with vibrant yellow and red dials, each limited to 100 pieces. Another notable collaboration includes a special edition with Wristcheck and seconds /seconde/, featuring a playful and innovative design that reflects the brand's commitment to creativity and craftsmanship.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Reception and Impact</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Since its launch, Atelier Wen has received praise for its ability to fuse traditional Chinese aesthetics with modern watchmaking. The brand has succeeded in <strong>changing the perception of "Made in China"</strong> by demonstrating that Chinese craftsmanship can compete with the highest international standards. Reviewers praised the brand's build quality, distinctive design, and innovative approach.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Atelier Wen represents a successful fusion of Chinese cultural tradition and contemporary watchmaking. With a focus on craftsmanship, quality and design, the brand has established <strong>a unique identity </strong>in the world of luxury watchmaking. Whether through delicately crafted porcelain dials or intricate guilloche patterns, each watch tells a story that honors China's rich heritage while meeting the expectations of modern watch enthusiasts.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Take inspiration from <strong>Dialicious customer reviews </strong>to choose the watch that suits you.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated March 2025)</p>

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