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The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

The Grammar of Design invented by Taro Tanaka has always fascinated me, and I've therefore always been drawn to the 44GS and 45GS. When Grand Seiko released this modern reinterpretation of the 45GS, I was immediately captivated. Especially since the hand-wound caliber 9SA4 boasts a beautiful architecture and includes a wonderful little surprise: the ratchet is shaped like a wagtail (an emblematic bird of Morioka, a town near the Shizukuishi studio where the watch is made) and vibrates as you wind the movement.

What I love are the angles of the case, the minimalist dial, and, of course, the dual Seiko and GS signature. For me, this is Grand Seiko at its best and a legend of Japanese watchmaking.

Grammar of Design

For a long time, I wondered if I really wanted to add a Patek Philippe to my collection, and if so, which one.

What I quickly realized was that my taste leaned towards a shaped watch with a manual movement. I was particularly drawn to the reference 5100, known as the "manta ray."

Until the day I tried on this Chronometro Gondolo. It was the rose gold version, with its two-tone dial. But I was immediately captivated. Everything about it struck me as exceptional: the tonneau-shaped case, the incredible hand-guilloché dial, the exquisitely refined pear-shaped hands, the manual caliber 25-21 REC designed specifically for this reference and bearing the Geneva Seal, as well as its wonderful historical heritage, since it's a recreation of a 1920s model that can be admired at the Patek Philippe Museum.

I knew there was a platinum version, so I made sure to find a full set.

The "honeymoon" was intense, and even now, I find it hard to wear any other watch. The oval time display is wonderful, and the tonneau shape is magical on the wrist. This watch is, without a doubt, one of the most important in my collection.

Style & Heritage

I am not naturally very attracted to steel watches with an integrated bracelet: I much prefer watches in rose or yellow gold with a leather strap. But, when I discovered this Alpine Eagle, I was very seduced: the pattern of the dial, inspired by the eagle's iris, is quite fascinating and the gray color, as well as the Roman numerals, give it a classic and dressy look while being sporty, which, personally, pleases me. Its design obviously contains elements that recall the Royal Oak (the screws on the bezel) and the Nautilus (the "fins" on both sides), but it also has its own personality and the finishes are of very good quality (mix of polished and brushed). What I appreciate most is the way in which, being quite thin (9.7mm) and well sized, it fits perfectly on the wrist. And, compared to its illustrious rivals, it has several important advantages in my eyes: a COSC-certified movement, 100m water resistance with a screw-down crown, a reasonable price and immediate availability in store or online. I therefore find it an ideal watch, not only for summer, but also for other more formal or dressy circumstances.

Sporty & dressy

Tradition and imagination, a look that is both dressy and sporty, timeless and surprising, simplicity and complexity: when I discovered this watch, I was truly dazzled, because it perfectly combined these opposing aspects that attracted me as much as each other. I was looking for an exceptional watch for my 50th birthday and I knew immediately that it would be this one: combining the purest watchmaking classicism with an almost extravagant form of fantasy, that was exactly what I dreamed of.

So there are these famous cow horn-shaped lugs: a magnificent touch of madness, which gives the watch a rather unique energy and dynamism. But the round case is very classic and, with its mushroom pushers, it has an undeniable retro, even vintage look.

The key element of the dial is, for me, the blue tachymeter scale, which adds a very nice touch of color that can be found in the blued hands of the chronograph. I also love the very thin rose gold hands, as well as the indexes, the two Roman numerals (XII & VI) and the applied Maltese Cross.

And then, finally, there is the very beautiful caliber 1142, which is a very nicely decorated and improved version of the famous and historic Lemania 2310, with, the highlight, the Maltese Cross-shaped column wheel! The movement, which beats at 21600 V.P.H. (3 Hz), is really audible and has a nice musicality, which I appreciate. And winding it daily offers a nice sensation.

In short, this watch corresponds to my personal ideal and I wear it with any outfit, because its slightly sporty and not only dressy look allows it to go with everything.

Tradition et imagination

My desire stubbornly pursues the somewhat confused image that I carry deep inside me of an ideal watch: a discreet, traditional, elegant and technically remarkable rose gold watch. It was therefore quite likely that I would like the Classic micro rotor by Laurent Ferrier. When I discovered, a year ago (in April 2023) the newly launched version with an “evergreen” dial, I found it wonderful. I then discovered, on the second-hand market, this version with a slate dial and decided to acquire it. Two elements differentiate this dial and make me particularly like it: first, the small gold indexes in the form of studs for the minutes (which are absent from many other versions); second, the golden/copper color of the “Laurent Ferrier Genève”. For the rest, everything is exceptional: the reactions of the dial to light, the onion-shaped crown, the spear-shaped hands and, of course, the micro rotor movement with natural escapement, whose architecture and manual finishing I never tire of admiring.

This watch now forms, with the Corne de Vache by Vacheron and the Quattro Spirit by Chopard, a trio particularly dear to my heart and perhaps — who knows? — definitive.

Sobriety & watchmaking excellence

This watch had an irresistible appeal for me. The whiteness of the grand feu enamel dial is resplendent in any light. And what purity! As for the jumping hour complication, I find it both visually beautiful and very poetic from an auditory point of view. Let me explain: visually, I really like this unique "dauphine-fusée" shaped hand, which indicates the minutes and is somewhat reminiscent of the display of regulators; and, from an auditory point of view, the click of the hour disc, which jumps instantly at the passage of each new hour and which is very audible as soon as one is in a quiet environment, constitutes a discreet, but sensitive and poetic way of marking time. I love it. The case, which is inspired by pocket watches, is very nicely finished, with a mixture of polished and satin. And the caliber 98.06-L, which offers 8 days of power reserve and is COSC certified, makes wearing this watch extremely practical and comfortable. Limited to 100 pieces, this generally little-known watch is for me a real marvel.

Enamel & jumping hour

The story of Grand Seiko is closely linked to that of <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/seiko">Seiko</a>, the famous Japanese watch brand. However, Grand Seiko has a distinct identity as Seiko's premium division, focusing on watchmaking excellence, precision and refined aesthetics. Since its beginnings, Grand Seiko has strived to compete with the best Swiss watch brands, embodying Japanese know-how and developing its own vision of luxury watchmaking.
<h2 dir="ltr">History of Grand Seiko</h2>
The story of Grand Seiko dates back to the late 1950s, when <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/seiko">Seiko</a> decided to create a line of high-end watches to compete with renowned Swiss brands. The goal was to design and manufacture watches that met the highest standards of precision, durability and finish.
In 1960, Grand Seiko was officially launched, with the introduction of the Grand Seiko "First" model. This watch was equipped with a manual mechanical movement and was distinguished by its exceptional precision and readability. The dial features a distinctive logo, &ldquo;GS&rdquo;, which will become emblematic of the brand. The first Grand Seiko models were received with praise, not only in Japan, but also abroad. The watches were particularly valued for their unparalleled precision, reliability and clean aesthetic. Grand Seiko quickly gained a reputation for watchmaking excellence, rivaling established Swiss brands.
Over the decades, Grand Seiko has continued to innovate and improve its watches. The brand introduced high-precision quartz movements in the 1970s, which were considered the most precise in the world at the time. However, Grand Seiko has always maintained its commitment to mechanical movements, developing sophisticated calibers with complications such as chronographs, minute repeaters and tourbillons.
In the 1990s, Grand Seiko faced challenges due to the growing popularity of quartz watches and the decline of interest in mechanical watches. However, the brand has continued to produce high quality watches with meticulous attention to detail and precision, cementing its reputation for watchmaking excellence.&nbsp;At the turn of the 21st century, Grand Seiko experienced a renaissance. The brand was reintroduced to the international market, with particular attention given to the United States and Europe. Grand Seiko watches were now presented as luxury products, with distinctive designs and high-end finishes.
The Grand Seiko line has also diversified with the introduction of collections such as the Grand Seiko Heritage, Grand Seiko Elegance, Grand Seiko Sport and Grand Seiko Nature of Time. Each collection offers a diversity of styles and features to meet the tastes and needs of watch enthusiasts around the world.
Over the past few years, Grand Seiko has consolidated its position as an internationally recognized luxury watch brand. Grand Seiko watches are made at the Shinshu Studio factory, located in the mountains of Japan, where master craftsmen are committed to creating watches of exceptional quality. Each watch is assembled by hand and undergoes careful checks to guarantee its precision and reliability.
The constant pursuit of watchmaking perfection is a key characteristic of Grand Seiko. The brand has developed innovative technologies, such as Grand Seiko's alloy spring movement and Zaratsu polishing, which gives the cases an impeccable mirror-polished finish. These advances demonstrate the brand's commitment to innovation and superior quality.
Grand Seiko has also been recognized for its distinctive design, combining elegance and functionality. Watches often feature sleek dials with precise indexes and hands, providing exceptional readability. The cases are designed with balanced lines and highly polished finishes, adding a touch of sophistication to each model.
The Grand Seiko watch has become a symbol of Japanese craftsmanship and watchmaking excellence. The brand is proud of its motto "The Nature of Time", which reflects the deep connection between nature, time and the creation of each watch. This philosophy is reflected in dials inspired by nature, such as the Mount Iwate motif or the dials of the "Snowflake" series, which recall the beauty and purity of Japanese landscapes.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Grand Seiko watch cost?</h2>
Prices for new Grand Seikos change regularly and vary depending on the model. Most cost between $7,000 and $9,000 depending on the models and finishes. A Grand Seiko Spring Drive begins at $5,000, while a Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (limited to 20 pieces) costs no less than $370,000. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a less expensive Grand Seiko.
<h2 dir="ltr">Grand Seiko: The discretion of luxury Japanese watchmaking</h2>
In summary, the story of Grand Seiko is that of a Japanese watch brand which has established itself as a major player in the world of luxury watchmaking. With its commitment to watchmaking excellence, unparalleled precision and refined aesthetics, Grand Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts around the world.
To choose the Grand Seiko model that best suits you, the Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience. Check out the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_luxury_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Luxury watch brands</a>, including Grand Seiko.
(Updated January 2024)

My first truly Japanese watch, it also marks a small departure in my journey as a watch enthusiast. I could have remained faithful to the well-trodden and reassuring paths of Swiss timepieces. I preferred curiosity, openness… and I've never regretted it. From the very first moment, this Grand Seiko captivated me.

The precision is obviously there, but it would be almost reductive to stop there. What is most striking is the absolutely remarkable level of finishing. Each polished surface subtly captures the light, every detail of the dial exudes mastery and restraint. Here, one senses a different watchmaking philosophy: less demonstrative, but infinitely demanding.

The open case back is an invitation to contemplation. It reveals a movement that perfectly embodies Japanese artistry: rigor, balance, and attention to detail. The 80-hour power reserve is reassuring in its generosity, but it is above all the mechanical life that fascinates. Winding the watch is a pleasure in itself; the crown makes that gentle, almost meditative click, a reminder that you're interacting with a living object, designed to last.

This SLGW005 is also a superb reissue of the legendary 45GS. It captures its spirit with intelligent fidelity, without succumbing to stagnant nostalgia. Its size is perfectly suited to my wrist, and its formal simplicity resonates deeply with my current state of mind. Nothing superfluous, nothing ostentatious—just the essential, elevated to a higher level.

By choosing this Grand Seiko, I haven't simply added a watch to my collection. I've discovered another way of thinking about watchmaking, perhaps quieter, but exceptionally rich. A watch to be earned, contemplated, and appreciated a little more each day.

Grand Seiko SLGW005: The Japanese Revelation

This recreated 45GS has quite a character behind its initially polished appearance... A magnificent caliber, wide open on refined caseback edges, and full of power, for 80 hours of power thanks to the double barrel. The robust model doesn't forget a certain poetry with its wagtail that vibrates even in your fingers when they tickle the crown. The 45GS was released in 1968. It was also the year of the Alfa Carabo. A year of rupture in design, between organic lines and angular geometry. The 45GS resolves the paradox, by marrying round with square. Glory to Japanese engineering and aesthetics! I recommend the excellent article by SJX, a fine Singaporean enthusiast.

Bright

La marque SYE [Start Your Engine] a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2020 par Arnaud Pezeron &agrave; c&ocirc;t&eacute; de Paris en France. La marque inaugure le Sport Tailoring au poignet. Elle propose des montres sport-chic de caract&egrave;re, fiables, ludiques et abordables inspir&eacute;es de l'univers de la m&eacute;canique auto-moto. La gamme comprend deux mod&egrave;les distincts, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_automatic_24">SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 </a>et la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_chronograph">SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
Cette marque embarque une innovation sur le changement du bracelet disponible en acier ou en cuir. La montre n'offre aucun espace entre le bracelet et la boite d&ucirc; &agrave; l&rsquo;absence de cornes, ce qui am&eacute;liore son confort et sa portabilit&eacute;.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre&nbsp;SYE&nbsp;?</h2>
La gamme SYE comporte deux mod&egrave;les disponibles sur le site de la marque : La SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 750&euro;. La SYE MOT1ON Chronograph est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 599 &euro;.
SYE est ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines montres par an tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une SYE qui vous correspond le mieux, les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises">Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont SYE fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2023)

The brand SYE [Start Your Engine] was created in 2020 by Arnaud Pezeron near Paris in France. The brand is introducing Sport Tailoring on the wrist. It offers sporty-chic watches with character, reliability, fun and affordability inspired by the world of car and motorcycle mechanics. The range includes two distinct models, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_automatic_24"> SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_chronograph"> SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
This brand has an innovation in changing the bracelet available in steel or leather. The watch offers no space between the bracelet and the case due to the absence of lugs, which improves its comfort and portability.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a SYE watch cost?</h2>
The SYE range includes two models available on the brand's website: The SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 is offered from &euro; 750. The SYE MOT1ON Chronograph is offered from &euro; 599.
SYE is independent and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an SYE that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including SYE.
(Updated November 2023)

Grand Seiko SLGW Owner Review : Stylish, simple and pure

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Grand Seiko SLGW Owner Review : Stylish, simple and pure

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Pros & Cons for this watch

Where to buy your Grand Seiko?

YOU ARE :

Other reviews published by Quattro

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ChopardAlpine Eagle

Vacheron ConstantinHistoriques Cornes de Vache 1955

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Customize your Grand Seiko with our selection of accessories:

Iconic Switzerland

Eagle Eye Watches

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Alpine Eagle

Vacheron Constantin
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Classic Micro-Rotor

Chopard
L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25