Arpiem RD Owner Review : Addictive, endearing and stylish

I often buy on impulse, and this orange and black T&R model was undoubtedly one of them! I bought this watch at the very beginning of Arpiem, through a Facebook ad, taking a chance on a micro-brand and startup. My opinion is therefore both enthusiastic and reserved, but I stand by it given the initial context of the watch brand. Let's start with the good, even very good: The overall quality of the case and its finish gives a feeling of robustness, and the engraved case back is a very nice touch (I'm not interested in looking at a basic movement). The design is sophisticated, with a compact case that also houses a "box within a box" with the dial's flip-up mechanism from 1 to 4 o'clock—I'll come back to that. The matte black bezel is understated: it's elegant. The dial is also understated but very legible; the two complement each other perfectly. No date complication, which is just as it should be, keeping things simple. The playful design, with the open dial revealing the balance wheel, is just enough to give it a mechanical feel, and it shows. Special mention goes to the very high-quality leather strap, which echoes the dial's colors. The deployant clasp is of slightly lower quality. Overall, the watch is very attractive. What's most striking about this model is the perceived quality relative to the very reasonable price I paid (under €400). The second point is the quality of the design: balanced, understated, yet rich in details that are discovered daily, making this a watch you'll want to wear again and again. This was certainly the case for me; I frequently returned to it, and I continue to do so, often in good weather, but in different ways: with a t-shirt or rolled-up sleeves, it makes a statement and is always noticed by watch enthusiasts. The less appealing part: as explained, the watch rotates 45° from 1 o'clock to 4 o'clock. The idea is nice, the brand specifying that it's to ensure the time is always aligned with the "pilot" while riding. Anyway… It's a gimmick, but it does create a distinctive case with two nested boxes, like Russian dolls. Unfortunately, the locking mechanism jammed very quickly, and the crown, also based on a nested design, isn't very ergonomic because of this system. Furthermore, the thinness of the hands is a real drawback. The idea of rectangular hands is a good one, and on this model, the lack of lume doesn't bother me (unlike some others). However, their slimness, and particularly the seconds hand, detracts from the overall visual balance. The more I wear it (though less regularly now), the more this problem bothers me. In conclusion, this impulsive purchase, like buying candy, has become a watch I've worn regularly for over a year. It's the result of genuine work on a balanced and distinctive/original design, which is truly the watch's strength. Regarding the watch's robustness, I didn't expect anything more than what was invested in its construction. Nevertheless, it really does the job, even exceeding expectations, but paradoxically, all these quality elements highlight the watch's flaws (which are few but noticeable). Today I wear it less because of these flaws, but it will remain an occasional summer watch when the occasion arises.